The Way of St James from Villards d’Héria to Santiago de Compostela

Do you want to commune with nature, admire its beauty at the slow pace of walking, walk to get to know yourself better, get back to basics, push yourself: set off on an adventure along the Camino de Santiago. That’s what I’m offering you with this route. I set off from my village in the Jura (the first six stages are not part of the signposted routes of the Camino de Santiago) to reach Santiago de Compostela in Spain, but there’s nothing stopping you from setting off from your own home to join the route at any stage, starting from Le Puy-en-Velay or any other town along the way.
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Photos

Stages of the route

This route needs several days, find the details below:

1. S
   

   Villards-d'Héria - Pic d'Oliferne

   23.46 km 743 m 601 m

   First stage of the Way of St James. This first stage, starting from Villards-d'Héria, takes you up to higher ground with a superb view of Lake Coiselet and, ultimately, a peak and a castle that are well worth the detour. Indeed, the Pic d’Oliferne towers over the Ain Valley by almost 500 metres and offers a beautiful view, particularly of the Haute-Chaîne du Jura.

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   Pic d'Oliferne - Grand Corent

   24.31 km 366 m 676 m

   Second stage of the Way of St James. A route offering beautiful views of Lake Coiselet and Lake Conflans, taking us through a few small hamlets and across woodland.

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   Grand Corent - Chevanel

   22.71 km 437 m 568 m

   Third stage of the Way of St James. A pleasant stage with some elevation gain, shaded sections and stretches on tarmac and dirt tracks.

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   Chevanel - Vaux-en-Bugey

   24.89 km 729 m 763 m

   Fourth stage of the Way of St James. A stage through varied, rolling countryside of vineyards, meadows and woods, starting from Neuville-sur-Ain and passing through pretty villages and small towns, ending with a stunning view of Allymes Castle and the Ambérieu plain.

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   Vaux en Bugey-Siccieu

   28.98 km 360 m 331 m

   Fifth stage of the Way of St James. This somewhat long stage takes you across the Rhône at Lagnieu. The rest of the route is less interesting and, above all, involves too much tarmac, but there is no alternative if you want to rejoin the GR®65.

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   Siccieu - Cessieu

   25.04 km 533 m 387 m

   Sixth stage of the Way of St James. A route offering ever-changing landscapes between the Lyon plain and the Alps, with glimpses of the Alpine range.

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   Cessieu-Gillonay

   28.85 km 434 m 446 m

   Seventh stage of the Way of St James. This stage is mainly in open country with little elevation gain. You walk along the hills and copses of the eastern part of the Liers plain. Here and there, you’ll catch glimpses of the surrounding hills and peaks.

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   Gillonnay - Pissieu

   25.17 km 239 m 310 m

   Eighth stage from east to west on the Way of St James. You are now on the Via Gebennensis – GR®65 or the ‘Route du Puy’ – which is undoubtedly the best-known route as it most closely follows the historical path to Santiago de Compostela. For this8th stage, you will walk mainly through fields and forests, punctuated by a strong cultural identity at La Côte Saint-André and also in villages such as Ornacieux or Balbins, with the Saint-Michel Chapel offering a magnificent 360° panorama.

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   Pisieu-Assieu

   29.05 km 409 m 562 m

   Ninth stage of the Way of St James. This stage allows you to continue your journey through the Isère countryside. Between small country roads and wooded paths, the route offers lovely open landscapes with the Massif Central and the Alps in the background. In terms of heritage, the Chapel of La Salette, Surieu Monastery and the crossing of the high-speed rail line between Paris, Lyon and Marseille mark the route.

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    Assieu-Chavanay

    20.20 km 105 m 189 m

    Tenth stage of the Way of St James. This stage will take you to Chavanay on the banks of the Rhône. The final stage before the Massif Central, the route offers several alternatives between theGR® and the paths marked by the Jacquaires associations. Be sure to stay on theGR®65to avoid unnecessary detours. This may not be the most pleasant part of the route, but certain sections, such as Condrieu, are well worth a visit.

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    Chavanay - Bourg-Argental

    23.77 km 825 m 475 m

    Eleventh stage of the Way of St James. This stage is the first in the Massif Central and crosses the Pilat Regional Nature Park. In the foothills of the Rhône Valley, it allows you to gain some altitude.

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    Bourg-Argental - Les Sétoux

    19.17 km 739 m 100 m

    Twelfth stage of the Way of St James. This stage leads to the watershed between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, at the point where the last foothills of the Rhône valley meet the volcanic plateaus of the Velay. Setting off from Bourg-Argental, you will follow the Via Fluvia for several kilometres before beginning the climb to the Col du Tracol through the Taillard forest.

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    Les Sétoux-Tence

    28.91 km 551 m 851 m

    Thirteenth stage of the Way of St James. This stage begins the long descent towards Le Puy-en-Velay. After crossing the Pilat and the Vivarais, the Velay region will now accompany you for the next few stages. This route, just over 25 km long, is a tribute to nature, both in atmosphere and scenery.

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    Tence - Queyrières

    18.85 km 637 m 315 m

    Fourteenth stage of the Way of St James. This fairly short stage (due to the gloomy, snowy weather) feels like a long, continuous climb until reaching the hamlet of Raffy, in the forests of Meygal, at an altitude of over 1,290 m, which is the highest point of this route. A short stop in Saint-Jeures, a small village with a beautiful 12th-century Romanesque church, situated a short distance from the Pic du Lizieux (1,388 m), clearly visible from a long way off before reaching the village.

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    Queyrères - Le Puy-en-Velay

    27.91 km 334 m 874 m

    Fifteenth stage of the Way of St James. In the heart of the Meygal, Queyrières, a village in the Haute-Loire department, stands beside its basalt rock. From there, you begin the descent towards Le Puy-en-Velay, passing through Saint-Julien-Chapteuil and its mills that once lined the Sumène. A gentle end to the route with a leisurely finish as you arrive in Le Puy-en-Velay, a major pilgrimage site.

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    Le Puy-en-Velay, a City of Art and History

    7.48 km 214 m 213 m

    Le Puy-en-Velay is a crossroads for several long-distance hiking trails such as theGR®70, the Stevenson Trail, theGR®3Loire Trail, theGR®700, the Regordane Trail and, of course, the Way of St James. As soon as you arrive in Le Puy-en-Velay, you can already sense the significant influence that religion has had on the town. Le Puy-en-Velay marks my first rest day after 15 days of walking on my Way of St James I discovered a town of Art and History, famous for its lace, its green lentils, its verbena, but above all for its incredible religious heritage.

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    Le Puy-en-Velay - Saint-Privat-d'Allier

    24.98 km 662 m 387 m

    Sixteenth stage of the Way of St James. From Le Puy-en-Velay to the picturesque village of Saint-Privat-d’Allier, don’t forget to look back and admire the view of the Marian city. Once you arrive in Saint-Privat-d’Allier, you’ll look out over the impressive Gorges de l’Allier and its still-wild river. Crossing the Velay region and its fields of lentils, as well as the Devès mountain range, is on the itinerary for this stage.

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    Saint-Privat-d'Allier - Saugues

    20.54 km 705 m 663 m

    This seventeenth "mountain" stage with significant elevation gain takes you to the village of Monistrol-d'Allier and the troglodyte chapel of La Madeleine, which are must-see sights before arriving in Saugues.

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    Saugues - Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

    34.49 km 593 m 598 m

    During this 18th stage of the Way of St James, you’ll traverse a wild, poetic and challenging landscape as you cross the Margeride and Gévaudan plateaus. You’ll spot rocky outcrops scattered here and there at the whim of chance and time, promising a surprising journey where it’s lovely to reconnect.

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    Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole – Aumont-Aubrac

    13.37 km 301 m 169 m

    Nineteenth stage of the Way of St James. This final stage in Margeride before crossing the Aubrac is fairly short and allows you to recover from the previous stages by visiting the pretty town of Aumont-Aubrac. You’ll be walking through a landscape of streams and mountain flora, with magnificent scenery!

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    Aumont Aubrac – Nasbinals

    26.55 km 397 m 281 m

    Twentieth stage of the Camino de Santiago. For this stage, leave the Margeride for the Aubrac. You’ll realise you’re in the Aubrac when the trees disappear – and it’s absolutely stunning! The colours, the landscapes, the cows, the silence, the sky, the rocks. You’ll feel tiny in the face of nature’s immensity.

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    Nasbinals - Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac

    16.85 km 245 m 600 m

    Twenty-first stage of the Way of St James. For this short, downhill stage, you leave the Aubrac plateau to reach Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac, nestled in the heart of the valley carved out by the Boralde, halfway between the Aubrac plateau and the Lot valley.

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    Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac – Espalion

    23.08 km 300 m 769 m

    The twenty-second stage of the Way of St James. On this stage, which is all downhill, you leave the Aubrac plateau to reach the Aveyron region, on the banks of the Lot, passing through the village of Saint-Côme-d’Olt, listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France, which has managed to preserve its character over the centuries. You arrive in the town of Espalion, which has grown up on the banks of the Lot, and you will notice on the hillsides the old terraces once planted with vines and fruit trees.

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    Espalion - Golinhac

    27.68 km 757 m 433 m

    The twenty-third stage of the Way of St James. This stage crosses the territories of five municipalities in the Aveyron. The landscape is mostly rural and natural, occasionally passing through woods and copses. The route is also dotted with several heritage sites of interest, such as the village of Estaing with its bridge and its towering castle, before reaching the Golinhac plateau, which offers mid-mountain landscapes

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    Golinhac - Conques-en-Rouergues

    22.31 km 358 m 802 m

    The twenty-fourth stage of the Way of St James. On this stage, you leave the Golinhac plateau, which offers mid-mountain landscapes, and after passing through several villages nestled in a lush green setting, you cross Senergues, an ancient village perched on a granite spur, and continue along a path dotted with remarkable buildings and sumptuous landscapes before arriving at Conques-en-Rouergues and its abbey church steeped in history.

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    Conques en Rouergues - Livinhac le Haut

    23.22 km 709 m 741 m

    Twenty-fifth stage of the Way of St James. This challenging stage, starting from Conques, takes you to Livinhac-le-Haut via Decazeville, along a path known as "Lou Camin Conquet". After a long climb at the start, you will discover picturesque and varied landscapes as well as diverse architecture.

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    Livinhac-le-Haut – Figeac

    26.73 km 457 m 449 m

    The twenty-sixth stage of the Way of St James. The days pass, the kilometres fly by and the landscapes change... A few kilometres after leaving Livinhac-le-Haut, you enter the Lot department with new and varied landscapes and that feeling of having arrived in the south, with the cicadas singing and the tiled roofs covering the houses.

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    Figeac - Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie

    25.44 km 374 m 401 m

    Twenty-seventh stage of the Camino de Santiago. For this stage, you leave theGR®65to follow a charming alternative route that will take you off the beaten track and allow you to discover unspoilt nature with breathtaking scenery. Just before the charming little village of Béduer, you leave theGR® 65 to take the Célé route on theGR® 651. You will pass through the villages of Boussac and Corn, with their old houses typical of the Quercy region and their troglodyte caves. Then, nestled in the bend of the Célé, you’ll discover Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie, two authentic villages merged into one. It must be said, the magnificent priory and its exceptional bell tower are worth the detour in their own right. It’s not without reason that the place is called Val Paradis.

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    Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie - Sauliac-sur-Célé

    24.18 km 794 m 816 m

    The twenty-eighth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A truly beautiful stage that winds through the Célé Valley. As you follow the river, the rocky cliffs open up to reveal their dark caves, pretty villages, cave dwellings and mills. The Célé Valley undulates along a route that is both wild and poetic, and is sure to fill you with wonder!

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    Sauliac-sur-Célé – Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

    22.21 km 638 m 637 m

    The twenty-ninth stage of the Way of St James. This beautiful stage begins with another climb, leading to the castle-museum of Cuzals with views over the Causses and the Célé valley, before reaching the heights of Cabrerets. The village nestles along the Célé and is dominated by its very impressive castle. This is followed by a visit to the Pech Merle cave, before discovering some of the stage’s most beautiful panoramas, with a lovely view from the Rochecourbe cliff. A lovely descent takes you away from the Célé to reach the Lot, near Bouziès, where the GR®651 ends. It is here that I suggest a detour from the Way of St James, heading upstream towards Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, a fantastic hilltop town and a must-see in the department. Passing through an incredible spot, you’ll have the chance to discover the towpath, a trail carved into the rock and originally used for horses to pass through.

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    Saint Cirq Lapopie - Cahors

    34.43 km 737 m 752 m

    Thirtieth stage of the Way of St James. On this stage, you leave Saint-Cirq-Lapopie via the magnificent towpath and head for Bouziès. You leave theGR®651to follow theGR®36. You climb back up onto the Causse plateau, offering beautiful views of the Lot valley, before descending to Arcambal and its medieval castle. You then follow the tranquil course of the Lot to Cahors.

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    Cahors, a city that is well worth a visit.

    9.90 km 26 m 26 m

    Cahors... I knew it by name, I often passed by not far from it, but I never stopped there. What a mistake! Cahors is a pretty little medieval town and a city on a human scale where you can do everything on foot. With its famous and sumptuous Pont Valentré bridge and its famous Saint-Étienne cathedral, this town has an incredible ancient and medieval heritage. Old Cahors is also a very attractive place with its secret gardens, half-timbered houses, market halls and market. I visited and discovered Cahors on my second day of rest after 21 days of walking on my way to Santiago de Compostela.

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    Cahors - Lascabanes

    28.40 km 474 m 337 m

    The thirty-first stage of the Way of St James. An easy stage with a slight incline from Cahors and a lovely climb at the start. You will cross the magnificent Pont Valentré to arrive, 23 km further on, at Labastide-Marnhac, a charming little town in the Lot department where white stone houses with flower-bedecked façades line both sides of the main street. The route continues gently to Lascabanes, a picturesque little village with its row of houses typical of the small farmers of yesteryear.

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    Lascabanes - Lauzerte

    22.08 km 368 m 446 m

    Stage 32 of the Camino de Santiago. A stage where the GR®65 is a bit of a rollercoaster ride. You will pass through the town of Montcuq, one of France’s most famous towns, made popular in the 1970s thanks to a famous sketch by Daniel Prévost in *Le Petit Rapporteur*, before arriving at Lauzerte, a hilltop village overlooking the valleys and hills of Quercy Blanc and listed among the Most Beautiful Villages of France.

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    Lauzerte - Moissac

    29.35 km 446 m 559 m

    Thirty-third stage of the Way of St James. The GR®65 is a bit of a rollercoaster ride on this rather long stage. After the first climb, don’t forget to look back and admire the village of Lauzerte in the distance. Pigeon lofts and chapels, as well as vineyards and orchards, follow one after another. You gradually leave the Quercy Blanc behind, heading for the banks of the Tarn and the town of Moissac, which is well worth a visit.

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    Moissac - Auvillar

    19.79 km 18 m 14 m

    Thirty-fourth stage of the Way of St James. For this recovery stage, you follow the banks of the Tarn, the Garonne and the Golfech Canal for 15 km. After this section, it is almost entirely flat all the way to Espalais. A final short climb will, however, be necessary to reach Auvillar.

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    Auvillar - Castet Arrouy

    22.31 km 406 m 376 m

    Thirty-fifth stage of the Way of St James. On this stage, you enter the Gers via Lomagne, this land of steep hills also known as ‘humpbacked Gascony’. This world-famous gastronomic region, home to foie gras and Armagnac, is also a land of captains, with its castles, fortified farms, redoubts, bastides, strongholds and more. Who hasn’t heard of d’Artagnan! You will follow pretty paths running parallel to the road, lined with fruit trees (apples, pears, cherries, figs, hazelnuts) and cypresses.

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    Castet Arrouy - Castelnau-sur-l'Auvignon

    29.08 km 456 m 397 m

    Thirty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. For this stage, due to the rain and mud making the paths difficult and slippery, I preferred to avoid the town of La Romieu. You are under no obligation to follow my route and, weather permitting, you can stay on theGR®65and visit La Romieu. On this somewhat long stretch, you begin to catch sight, in the distance, of the Pyrenees mountain range and the inevitable crossing into Spain looming ahead! After passing through Lectoure, the melon capital, there are ascents and descents as you move from one valley to another.

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    Castelnau-sur-l'Auvignon – Montréal-du-Gers

    26.32 km 350 m 428 m

    Thirty-seventh stage of the Way of St James. On this fairly long stage, you start off walking along undulating, grassy paths to Condom, a small town steeped in history and full of life. Your route then takes you over hill and dale, surrounded by fields of sunflowers and vineyards in the Armagnac region, to Montréal-du-Gers. Please note: in wet weather, some sections can be very muddy and slippery.

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    Montréal du Gers – Eauze

    17.29 km 167 m 88 m

    Thirty-eighth stage of the Camino de Santiago. On the agenda for this short stage: rolling countryside, vineyards, cornfields and forests, ending in the magnificent ancient town of Eauze. Take the time to enjoy this journey through the land of D’Artagnan which, in the heart of the provinces of Guyenne and Gascony, reveals gentle landscapes, symbols of a certain way of life.

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    Eauze - Lanne Soubiran

    29.55 km 336 m 373 m

    Thirty-ninth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage offers a beautiful journey through the Bas Armagnac region, through a rural landscape featuring half-timbered houses, ancient oak groves, fields of maize and sunflowers, and the vineyards for which this region is renowned, with the Pyrenees mountain range as a backdrop. In wet weather, certain sections of the path through the vineyards can become very muddy and slippery.

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    Lanne Soubiran – Aire-sur-l'Adour

    25.47 km 160 m 170 m

    The fortieth stage of the Way of St James. On this stage, which ends in Aire-sur-l'Adour, you leave the department of Gers and enter the Landes. You also leave behind the muddy and slippery paths to arrive, once past the town of Aire-sur-l'Adour, on the lakeside walk at Lac de Brousseau.

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    Aire-sur-l'Adour - Arzacq Arraziguet

    31.13 km 354 m 260 m

    The forty-first stage of the Way of St James. This fairly long stage takes you through the villages of Sensacq and then Pimbo before entering the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. This department is the convergence point for all routes to Santiago de Compostela. You will enjoy the landscapes of the Landes and, depending on visibility, you will have some beautiful views of the Tursan and the Pyrenees.

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    Arzacq-Arraziguet - Arthez-de-Béarn

    30.33 km 412 m 483 m

    Forty-second stage of the Way of St James. This stage, starting from Lac d'Arzacq, takes you into Béarn, offering beautiful countryside scenery and lovely paths winding between the Luy valley and the Gaves du Béarn.

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    Arthez-de-Béarn - Navarrenx

    32.94 km 542 m 554 m

    Forty-third stage of the Way of St James. A hilly stage awaits you, linking the Gave de Pau valley with that of the Gave d’Oloron to reach Navarrenx, a small village in Béarn that will charm you with its lands watered by the Gave d’Oloron and its tributaries, the Saleys, the Laus, the Arroder and the Lucq. Navarrenx has been awarded the "Most Beautiful Villages of France" label.

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    Navarrenx - Uhart-Mixe

    36.52 km 696 m 539 m

    Forty-fourth stage of the Camino de Santiago. During this stage, you leave Béarn for the Basque Country. A very long stage, mostly along country roads and paths through woodland. As you do not pass through any large villages, it is best to stock up on provisions at the start.

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    Uhart-Mixe - Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    27.93 km 420 m 546 m

    Forty-fifth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage is the last of the French section. The ever-changing landscapes of the Basque Country, each more wonderful than the last, will leave you with unforgettable memories. By the time you arrive in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you will have already covered approximately 1,150 kilometres in 45 days of walking, with 12,750 metres of elevation gain. Something to be proud of! Remember to visit the pilgrims’ reception office with your pilgrim’s passport to have your visit to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port certified, before crossing the Pyrenees, and to pick up useful information for your journey through Spain. Make the most of a rest day to recharge your batteries and enjoy the town, which is listed among the Most Beautiful Villages of France thanks to its typical and well-preserved Basque architecture, its green landscapes opening out onto the Pyrenees, and the expertise of its producers and craftspeople.

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    At the gateway to Spain: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    4.22 km 92 m 92 m

    Step back in time as you discover a unique heritage, walking along centuries-old cobblestones and enjoying the view of the Pyrenees – this is how you’ll discover the authentic town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I visited this town at the end of the final French stage of my Camino de Santiago, after 47 days of walking.

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    From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

    24.91 km 1,335 m 547 m

    The forty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A physically demanding stage, featuring the ascent of the Pyrenees, splendid views of the surrounding Basque Country if the weather permits, free-roaming herds, a sense of being high up, and the excitement of crossing into Spain. After a long, steep descent, you arrive at the Monastery of Roncesvalles. Given the altitude of the finish point and the cool temperatures, I preferred the monastery dormitory to camping. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a whole new journey begins. The landscapes are no longer the same, nor are the pilgrims. From here on, there are ten times as many people on the paths. Very few French people and lots of Koreans, Australians, Americans, Filipinos and, of course, Spaniards. From here on, you have to speak Spanish or English or use Google Translate. But you always manage to make yourself understood and get by. That’s the magic of the Camino de Santiago.

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    Roncesvalles - Esteribar

    33.38 km 451 m 949 m

    The forty-seventh stage of the Camino de Santiago. A long stage but less gruelling than the previous day’s, despite a somewhat arduous descent towards Zubiri. Along this route, you’ll alternate between landscapes of beech and pine forests and charming little villages with typical Navarran architecture. From this stage onwards, the signposting on the Camino de Santiago in Spain consists of yellow arrows—either painted on the ground, on building facades, on rocks or on trees—or specific European signage featuring a stylised yellow scallop shell on a blue background. This logo may also take the form of bronze scallop shells nailed to walls or set into the ground in the major towns along the route, indicating the direction towards Santiago de Compostela.

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    Esteribar - Puente la Reina

    33.77 km 505 m 589 m

    Forty-eighth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A stage like today’s is described in Spanish as: todo derecho – straight ahead all the way. You walk alongside the River Arga with little change in elevation until you reach Pamplona, at the foot of a group of hills covered in beech, oak and wild pine trees. As you approach Pamplona, the landscape becomes more clearly influenced by civilisation, with its conifers, reforestation and farmland. The rest of the stage is dominated by the Alto del Perdón, which offers a magnificent view. From there, you can see Pamplona and the Pyrenees behind, and opposite, the vast Navarrese plain. You will spend part of the day climbing up and down this mountain range, passing through quiet little towns that resemble islands floating amongst the fields of grain.

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    Puente la Reina - Estella Lizarra

    21.29 km 390 m 314 m

    Forty-ninth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This short stage remains very interesting thanks to the towns you pass through, such as Mañerú, Cirauqui and Villatuerta, until you reach your destination for the day, Estella, on the River Ega, a marvel from centuries past, which welcomes you with a very photogenic bridge.

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    Estella the Beautiful

    6.90 km 116 m 117 m

    The medieval old town of Estella, through which the River Ega flows, boasts numerous Romanesque and Gothic buildings that bear witness to its former splendour. ‘Estella la bella’, as the pilgrims of the Middle Ages called it, is situated in Navarre, on the Camino Francés, between Puente la Reina and Logroño. I visited this beautiful town during the forty-ninth stage of my Camino de Santiago.

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    Estella Lizarra - Torres del Rio

    30.97 km 407 m 405 m

    Fiftieth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage takes you to the southernmost reaches of Navarre, to the picturesque village of Torres del Río, with its Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a jewel of Romanesque art. In the blazing sun, this route is long and gruelling. When you arrive in Irache, known for its wine fountain, you will have walked for only half an hour, and you will still have 27 km to go… yet Irache wine is very strong, even if it goes down easily! Remember to fill your water bottle… with water!

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    Torres del Río – Logroño

    20.74 km 277 m 357 m

    Fifty-first stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, you leave Navarre and enter La Rioja, famous for its vineyards, before reaching Logroño. The twenty kilometres of this section begin with a path through ravines, but once you reach Viana, the route becomes much easier to walk. Make the most of your late afternoon and evening to visit Logroño, a city rich in history and traditions dating back to the Middle Ages. In the evening, the narrow streets of the old town are bustling with life.

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    Logroño: a city rich in history and traditions

    6.51 km 46 m 51 m

    At the crossroads of the Camino de Santiago, Logroño is crossed by the River Ebro, spanned by two bridges connecting it to Navarre and Álava. Logroño seems a vibrant city that carefully preserves an old town shaped by the Way of St James and the culture and production of wine. It is a very pleasant city to stroll around, especially in the evening, to enjoy tapas in its famous bar district. I visited this city during the fifty-first stage of my Camino de Santiago.

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    Logroño - Nájera

    30.51 km 378 m 267 m

    The fifty-second stage of the Camino de Santiago. For this stage, the route leaves Logroño via a pleasant walk through the large La Grajera park and its lake of the same name, continuing on to Navarrete, a town renowned for its crafts. After a gentle climb leading up to Alto de San Antón, from where you can already see Nájera, the route takes you to the red rocks of the River Najerilla, where the ancient royal town of Nájera is situated.

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    Nájera - Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    21.81 km 338 m 186 m

    The fifty-third stage of the Camino de Santiago. A simple, short stage with few inclines, through gently rolling countryside. The route mainly follows farm tracks, and the vineyards give way to cereal crops. You arrive in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a town that retains a beautiful medieval historic centre and was declared a Site of Historical and Artistic Interest in 1973. The town’s main heritage attraction is the cathedral.

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    Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where the hen crowed after she had died

    2.30 km 10 m 10 m

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada was founded by the saint after whom it is named, with the aim of helping pilgrims on the Way of St James. It is a resting place on the Way of St James. Among other things, you must see its cathedral and stroll amongst the many churches, historic monuments and narrow streets, which can keep you occupied for half a day. I visited this town during the fifty-third stage of my Camino de Santiago.

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    Santo Domingo de la Calzada - Belorado

    23.66 km 295 m 174 m

    Fifty-fourth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage marks the entry into Castile and León, just after passing the village of Grañón. The route leading to Belgrado requires following maintained tracks, a few metres from the busy Carretera (N-120), making the journey somewhat unpleasant but ensuring rapid progress.

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    Belorado - San Juan de Ortega

    23.89 km 460 m 213 m

    Fifty-fifth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage towards Burgos takes you through several villages along a path that climbs imperceptibly, leading you first towards the Montes de Oca through wooded landscapes, and finally to the convent of San Juan de Ortega, a convent perched in the mountains, which appears like an oasis (remember to stock up on supplies before setting off).

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    San Juan de Ortega - Burgos

    25.88 km 132 m 280 m

    Fifty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage towards Burgos passes through Atapuerca and takes you over the day’s only small hill through a rural area. There is an alternative route at the entrance to Burgos to avoid the tarmac after Orbaneja Riopico. This alternative, well signposted from Castañares, is more pleasant. It avoids the tarmac as much as possible and is shaded all the way along the river.

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    Discovering the gems of Burgos

    8.30 km 93 m 99 m

    The sheer number of things to do in Burgos is impressive: religious and secular monuments, parks, museums, fountains, statues and so on. Among the places to visit, perhaps the most important is the Cathedral of Santa María, a Gothic-style Catholic church converted into a museum. Inside, it houses numerous chapels, each of which is a small museum in its own right. Not far from the altar, on the floor, lies the tombstone of El Cid and Chimène. Also not to be missed are the Monastery of Santa María la Real de Las Huelgas, Burgos Castle, the historic centre, the Miraflores Charterhouse, and so on. I spent a day visiting Burgos, at the end of the fifty-sixth stage of my Camino de Santiago.

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    Burgos - Iglesias

    26.66 km 228 m 207 m

    Fifty-seventh stage of the Camino de Santiago. After an urban interlude in Burgos, this stage takes you into the heart of the scorching landscapes of Castile. After Rabé de las Calzadas , you step straight onto a desert-like high plateau, dotted with villages nestled amidst the fields. Here, it is a desert of ploughed fields along a path that is often flat and straight, exposed to the wind or the beating sun! Protect yourself before you turn into a lobster.

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    Iglesias - Itero de la Vega

    25.81 km 195 m 321 m

    Fifty-eighth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage, with few trees to shelter from the fierce summer sun or the uncomfortable wind and rain, runs largely over good terrain through fields of grain. After passing under the arches of San Antón, you cross the village of Castrojeriz and, after climbing the Teso de Mostelares, you arrive at the village of Itero de la Vega.

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    Itero de la Vega - Carrión de los Condes

    33.93 km 148 m 92 m

    Fifty-ninth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A long, flat stage with no particular difficulty, except that you walk alongside long stretches of busy road. You enter the province of Palencia and pass through several towns and villages, including Boadilla del Camino with its Gothic Rollo and Frómista, where you can admire the four-lock system of the Canal de Castilla. After entering the autonomous community of Castile and León, you discover the town of Carrión de los Condes with its extraordinary Church of Santa María del Camino and its old town.

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    Carrión de los Condes - Moratinos

    28.93 km 123 m 105 m

    Sixtieth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A carefree stage... it’s flat... flat... flat! Few village crossings. The route is less desolate than the previous stage, yet there isn’t much to discover. But this may be an opportunity to listen to the silence and reflect on what truly drove us to reach Santiago!

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    Moratinos - Sahagún

    12.78 km 73 m 112 m

    Sixty-first stage of the Camino de Santiago. This short route is a transitional stage, allowing you time to visit the Virgen del Puente before arriving in Sahagún and then exploring the town, its churches and monasteries. It is also a good opportunity to rest after the long stages that have gone before, in order to prepare for the long stages ahead.

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    Sahagún - Santas Martas

    30.07 km 94 m 75 m

    Sixty-second stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage is long, monotonous and hot! In short, another stage across the Meseta and, more specifically, the rocky Páramo plain, with endless, straight paths offering little variety that seem to go on forever.

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    Santas Martas - León

    23.23 km 124 m 109 m

    Stage 63 of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, you leave behind the arid high plateau of the Meseta to reach León, one of the most beautiful and culturally rich cities on the Camino de Santiago. This is a fairly short stage, leaving you plenty of time to explore the city.

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    León, a city of monuments

    5.28 km 23 m 21 m

    León is a city steeped in history and full of monuments to discover. Without a doubt, the cathedral is the number one sight to see in León. A colossal monument that dominates the city from above and captivates simply by its presence. In addition to this monumental building, you can explore the Royal Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, Casa Botines, the Palacio de los Guzmanes, the Roman and medieval walls, and the Convent of San Marcos. And if you have time, do take a stroll through the Húmedo and Romántico districts to soak up the atmosphere around the tapas bars. I visited this city at the end of the sixty-third stage of my Camino de Santiago.

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    León - Villadangos del Páramo

    22.52 km 174 m 124 m

    Sixty-fourth stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, you will pass through the old part of the city of León, taking in the famous tapas bars, restaurants and iconic landmarks such as the Trajan’s Column. The walk out of León is gruelling, involving several hours’ walking along the N-120, all the way to Villadangos del Páramo.

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    Villadangos del Páramo - Astorga

    30.59 km 181 m 204 m

    The sixty-fifth stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, you reach the very photogenic Orbigo Bridge before passing through several picturesque villages to arrive in Astorga, a Roman town with an imposing city wall, whose many monuments serve as a reminder of its historic past.

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    Astorga - Santa Colomba de Somoza

    27.69 km 639 m 78 m

    Sixty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, you climb gently up the eastern slope of the León mountains through magnificent scenery. The route passes through picturesque little villages saved from abandonment. After passing through Rabanal del Camino on a path through oak forests, you begin the ascent to the Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross), through a landscape of almost deserted moorland, before descending to the hamlet of Manjarin to spend the night in, or next to, a quaint refuge.

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    Santa Colomba de Somoza - Ponferrada

    22.43 km 139 m 1,048 m

    The 67th stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, the climb up to Alto de Cerezales offers a magnificent panoramic view of the surrounding area. Then begins a long descent along stony paths and through magnificent chestnut groves towards Ponferrada. This ancient town, built at the confluence of the River Boeza, boasts numerous religious buildings and an imposing fortified castle built by the Knights Templar in the 13th century.

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    Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo

    23.70 km 244 m 242 m

    Stage 68 of the Camino de Santiago. Today’s stage crosses the entire Bierzo region, a large basin surrounded by mountains and blessed with a milder microclimate. You’ll find yourself back in the countryside and among the vineyards that produce the famous wines of Bierzo. After passing through a few small villages that stretch along the route and crossing the River Cua, you’ll arrive in Villafranca del Bierzo, a Frankish town born of the pilgrimage route and rich in beautiful heritage.

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    Villafranca del Bierzo - O’Cebreiro

    28.27 km 883 m 119 m

    The sixty-ninth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage is nothing like the one before it – far from it! It is a stage that will leave an indelible memory, thanks to the beautiful, exhilarating and daunting climb to O Cebreiro, the highest ascent on the French Way within Spanish territory. In the village of O Cebreiro, you are in Galicia; this village is a little gem, thanks to its location, its views, its church, its pallozas and its legends.

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    O’Cebreiro - Triacastela

    21.45 km 223 m 864 m

    The 70th stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage towards Triacastela first climbs up to the Haut de San Roque and its monumental statue of the pilgrim, then descends gently towards the small village of Triacastela. In between, a peaceful journey through wooded areas and green meadows that reconnects us with nature.

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    Triacastela - Peruscallo

    26.91 km 552 m 576 m

    The seventy-first stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, with fewer long sections along busy roads, you’ll walk along a greener, quieter countryside route passing through many small villages.

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    Peruscallo - Ventas de Narón

    26.30 km 487 m 418 m

    The seventy-second stage of the Camino de Santiago. Santiago de Compostela is fast approaching; today you will pass the legendary 100 km mark between the villages of Ferreiros and Moimentos. A walking stage through numerous small villages and hamlets that takes you to Ventas de Narón, a small hamlet located in the province of Lugo, in the autonomous community of Galicia, in north-western Spain.

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    Ventas de Narón - Melide

    27.34 km 317 m 600 m

    The seventy-third stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this downhill stage, you continue through Galicia, a beautiful green region whose landscape is reminiscent of the Aubrac. Indeed, the region’s paths are lined with low stone walls. The region is beautiful but poor. The housing is dilapidated and the elderly people you meet live with their feet in cow dung.

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    Melide - O Pino

    31.12 km 500 m 641 m

    The seventy-fourth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage is long but easy, on a road in very good condition, with dirt and stone paths, as well as small roads or tarmac tracks between villages, featuring gentle ascents and descents interspersed with flat sections. You arrive in A Rúa, at the Peregrino O Castiñeiro campsite, to recharge your batteries and prepare for the final stage.

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    O Pino - Santiago de Compostela

    20.73 km 302 m 317 m

    The seventy-fifth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage takes you one last time along peaceful paths and trails through small villages, forests and countryside. As you draw nearer, the stream of walkers grows denser. Yet amidst the crowd, each person walks alone with their own thoughts. In everyone’s eyes shines the star of Santiago. Arrival in Santiago de Compostela is always a moment of intense emotion, accompanied by numerous rituals. The first obligatory ritual is to have your photograph taken in front of the Santiago sign. Once this is done, you cross the suburbs before reaching the historic quarter where the cathedral stands, where you can place your foot on the ‘Kilometre 0’ marker situated in the middle of the Plaza del Obradoiro, directly opposite the cathedral. It symbolises the end of the pilgrimage, the finishing point of all the routes and, above all, the pride of having succeeded, of having pushed beyond one’s limits, overcome one’s fears and... And then comes the time to return.

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    Santiago de Compostela, the pilgrims’ iconic city

    3.78 km 41 m 35 m

    Santiago de Compostela is known throughout the world. Built on the tomb of St James the Apostle, the city attracts travellers for its famous cathedral, an exceptional monument with breathtaking façades that houses a wealth of relics. But the city of Santiago is home to many other equally magnificent monuments. Every year, more than three million visitors come to wander through the city’s neighbourhoods, whose Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture make them truly unique.

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