Bob Didi

This long circular path starts in Chavanay, a village on the banks of the Rhône, and heads towards the highest point of the Pilat. The path begins by climbing through the vineyard-covered slopes of the Rhône valley, then crosses a plateau used for livestock farming and crops between the hamlets of La Ribaudy and Beautin, before crossing the foothills of the Pilat to the hamlet of Pataud. From there, the route climbs the wooded slope of the Crêts du Pilat and reaches the Col du Gratteau, then the Col de l’Œillon, from where it follows the Crêts ridge to reach the Col de la Perdrix. On the return journey, it descends through the woods on the southern slope and, via Chaumienne, reaches Saint-Sabin, then Véranne. It crosses the fields and orchards of the plateau, passing through Goëly and Bessey, before descending into the Rhône valley at the Grande Gorge and, via the Petite Gorge, returns to Chavanay. Numerous signposts mark the route.IBP 140: estimated duration 13 hours for a hiker of average fitness.

This circular walk is a variation on route no. 107635379, the Grande Sure, a return walk from Saint-Laurent-du-Pont. The ascent to the summit of the Grande Sure is the same, but this route differs in its return leg, which starts from the Col de la Sure, from where the path leads to the Col des Charmilles, descends the opposite slope, then crosses the Rochers des Agneaux before hurtling down a steep cirque and joining the Route Forestière de la Charmette, which leads to the magnificent Chartreuse de Currière. This route offers the advantage of a different return journey with a similar elevation gain, despite being 2.8 km longer, but has the disadvantage of ending on a road.

A lovely, shaded hike along steep slopes through the forest, passing through a cirque notable for its scree of dazzlingly white limestone. As you emerge from the forest, a superb view opens up over a grassy valley dotted with a few wooded areas and nestled between imposing rocky ridges. From the summit, you’ll enjoy a magnificent 360° panorama: to the east, from Mont Blanc to the Écrins via Belledonne and the Grandes Rousses; to the south, the Vercors; to the west, the Dauphiné Mountains; and to the north, the Chartreuse.

This route begins with the classic ascent to the Refuge de la Pra. From the refuge, the route takes you off the beaten track, through magnificent high-mountain scenery. Head towards Lac David via the western slope of the Grande Lauzière, which offers a beautiful view of the Claret, Longet and Bernard lakes. Shortly afterwards, you look out over Lac David. The path crosses a small pass, descends into a small valley, and climbs up a rocky ridge with views of the rugged eastern slope of the Grande Vaudaine. You climb the southern ridge of the Grande Lauzière to its pass, then on to its summit.

A long circular loop that climbs from Pré Marcel through woodland to the Jean Collet Refuge, before ascending towards the Col de la Mine de Fer amidst a rocky high-mountain landscape. The path switches to the opposite slope, offering magnificent views to the right over the Brèche de Roche Fendue and the Ferrouillet peaks, to the left over the Grand Replomb, and, far below, nestled in the centre of the cirque, the splendid Lac de Crop with its beautiful ultramarine blue waters. After skirting its right bank and passing its narrows, the trail reaches the Pont de la Betta before embarking on a long traverse through the forest, passing in front of the Waterfall des Avoux before returning to the car park. This walk, in the Belledonne massif, is a variation on the circular route ‘Le Col de la Mine de Fer and Lac de Crop’, starting from Pré Marcel.

This round-trip walk starts in Chavanay, a village on the banks of the Rhône, and ends at the Crêt de L’Œillon. The path climbs through the vineyard-covered slopes of the Rhône Valley, then crosses a plateau used for livestock farming and crops between the hamlets of La Ribaudy and Beautin, before crossing the foothills of the Pilat to reach the hamlet of Pataud. From there, the route climbs the wooded slope of the Crêts du Pilat, runs alongside the Trois Dents peak and, after a rocky outcrop, reaches the Col de l’Œillon and then the Crêt de l’Œillon.

The seventh stage brings this week-long hike through the enchanting Luberon region to a close. The route leads to the village of Gordes, perched on a rocky outcrop, where the dry-stone buildings, winding paved slanting streets and its proud, imposing castle reveal all the charm of these Provençal villages that have weathered centuries of conflict. It then heads to the magnificent Sénanque Abbey, peacefully nestled in a valley; its simple Romanesque architecture, built of grey limestone, is set off by the contrast of a vast field of lavender. Through the woods of the Vaucluse Plateau, he visits the charming little village of Saumane-de-Vaucluse, perched on a rocky outcrop and protected by its fortified castle, now converted into a bastion. He then descends to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse to admire the mighty resurgence of the Sorgue de Velleron, before returning to the car park where he started.

This sixth stage crosses the wooded slope of Perréal Hill before reaching the village of Gargas and winding through the farmland of the Urbane Valley, then climbing up to the pretty village of Roussillon, where you can allow an hour to visit the old ochre quarry, with its magnificently coloured landscapes of cliffs and fairy chimneys. The route returns to the cultivated fields and enters the narrow Gorges de la Véroncle – a little gem waiting to be discovered – before heading up the Ravin de Vézaule to reach Camping des Sources.

This fifth stage takes you on a journey of discovery through the splendid Gorges d’Oppedette and, once past the Chapelle Saint Ferréol, visits the remarkable medieval village of Viens with its maze of narrow streets marked by the passage of centuries, before crossing the gleaming ochre landscapes of the Colorado de Rustrel, notable for its canyon-like scenery and fairy chimneys reminiscent of John Ford’s Westerns. The route reaches the hilltop village of Villars before continuing on to Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt.

This fourth stage begins with a route halfway up the wooded slope of the Vallat de Pissaire before entering the Ravin du Gancet and then crossing the Aiguebelle valley to reach the hilltop village of Montjustin. The route follows the ridge of the hill separating this valley from that of the Encrême and descends to reach Céreste, situated at their confluence. It crosses the remarkable Pont de la Baou before revealing, nestled in the woods, the medieval Priory of Carluc. It climbs the side of the valley and swings over to that of the Grand Vallat, then ascends its sunny slope towards Sainte-Croix-à-Lauze, from where it reaches the top of the Cavalon valley before descending it to reach the village of Oppedette.

This third stage takes you through the forests on the southern slopes of the Grand Lubéron. From Cucuron, the route climbs gently northwards across fields, then rises steeply up the wooded flank of the Montagne du Grand Lubéron and, following various valleys, reaches the bare ridge at the small pass of Basse Cabrière, east of the Mourre Nègre, the highest point of the massif. It winds along the ridge and, at its end, drops down the northern slope, then, skirting Mont La Grand Colle, returns south via the Vallat de la Combe d’Apt, before reaching Vitrolles-en-Lubéron.

This second stage of the Tour du Luberon takes place on the sunny side of the Durance valley, through the wooded valleys of the Luberon Nature Park. From Mérindol, the route follows the valleyfloor and, after passing Les Borrys, climbs towards the Pic de l’Aigle before descending into the Vallon du Gros Ubac, which it follows to reach the Combe de Recaute. It climbs its slope then crosses over to the Combe du Sautadou, which it descends before climbing up the Vallon des Séyes and reaching the Cap de Serre. Via the Vallon du Bon Dieu, it reaches Lourmarin and, skirting the foot of the Grand Luberon, heads to Cucuron.

Largely wooded, the Luberon attracts tourists with its ochre quarries, steep-sided gorges, monuments and hilltop villages with paved slanting streets that evoke the Provence of Daudet, Giono and Pagnol. The first three stages take place in the Luberon Regional Nature Park through the woods on the southern slope of the massif, visiting the medieval village of Oppède-le-Vieux and those of Mérindol, Cucuron and Vitrolles-en-Luberon. The fourth stage crosses over to the northern slope, passing through Céreste, Pont de Baou, the Priory of Carluc and Oppedette. The fifth stage explores the Gorges d’Oppedette, the medieval market town of Viens, and the ochre quarries of Rustrel and Villars. The sixth route crosses Gargas then Roussillon to explore its ochre quarries before setting off to discover the Gorges de la Véroncle. The final route heads to the beautiful village of Gordes, the Abbaye de Sénanque, Saumane-de-Vaucluse and the Fontaine-de-Vaucluse.

This first stage of the Tour du Luberon offers beautiful, unspoilt Provençal landscapes through the rocky hills and valleys of sparse woodland bordering the Coulon Valley. The highlights of this route include the remains of the Plague Wall, built during the plague of 1720, the little Chapel of Saint-Eusèbe, the medieval village of Oppède-le-Vieux perched on a rocky outcrop, its church of Notre-Dame d’Alidon which offers a beautiful view over the valley, the Galère valley, the old village of Mérindol, its church of Sainte-Anne and its Reformed church.

Second stage of the Omblèze circular route in the Southern Vercors. This mountainous stage begins with a long climb to the Pas du Grand Échaillon, which continues up the Ravin de Pissenible to reach the Col de la Bataille and its viewpoint. The path, which is almost level on the flank of the Roc de Toulau, then climbs to the panoramic viewpoint at the Croix d'Ambel, before descending after the Pas de Garde to the viewpoint at Pierre Plate and crossing through Omblèze. It climbs to the Col des Ayes and then continues to the Col d'Anse, from where it descends to the hamlet of Ansage before reaching the car park

This two-stage circular loop takes place in a sparsely populated region with luminous landscapes, alternating between Provençal and mountainous scenery. From the Druise car park, the path heads to the Druise Waterfall, then follows the La Gervanne Gorge route and visits the La Pissoire Waterfall before venturing into the eerie Gueulards Canyon. It reaches the Abbaye de Léoncel lodge for a peaceful, monastic night’s rest. The next stage begins with a good warm-up leading to the Pas du Grand Échaillon, then on to the Col de la Bataille and its viewpoint, before continuing to that of the Croix d’Ambel. The path descends to the Pierre Plate viewpoint and then to the village of Omblèze, from where it climbs to the Col des Ayes and on to the Col d’Anse. It descends to the hamlet of Ansage and returns to the car park.

First stage of the circular route around Omblèze in the Southern Vercors. This route begins with a visit to the Chute de la Druise, one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Vercors, which plunges 70 metres from the bottom of a narrow gorge. After passing through the Gervanne Gorge, you come to the charming little Pissoire Waterfall, followed by a crossing of the Gueulards Canyon, a unique geological feature that inspires both unease and delight, before reaching the small, isolated village of Léoncel and its 12th-century abbey, with its old-world charm, which offers hospitality in a discreet manner.

This is a pleasant hike from Yzeron through the charming wooded hills of the Monts du Lyonnais, offering beautiful views of the Rhône Valley and the Alps along the way. From Yzeron, the route runs alongside Lake Ronzey and reaches the Col de la Croix de Pars, then the small Saint-Clair chapel before passing Les Jumeaux to reach the Col de Malval, from where it descends to Le Barthélemy. It climbs to the Croix de Garde and, after La Milonière, follows the route of the Roman aqueduct of Yzeron to Les Esselards, then climbs back up to the Crêt de la Madone before returning to Yzeron.

This pleasant circular walk in the Brévenne valley takes you through woods and meadows in a little-visited and rather secret area offering beautiful views of the Massif Central and the Monts du Lyonnais. From the hilltop village of Aveize, the route descends to the bottom of the valley and, after meandering along the opposite slope, passes through the charming little village of Meys before crossing the Brévenne and climbing back up to Grézieu-le-Marché and Aveize.

This pleasant hike winds through the woods of the northern Monts du Lyonnais. From Vaugneray, the route climbs to La Maletière, then descends the Vallon du Mercier, rises through the woods to reach the Col de la Luère, where it winds pleasantly along the ridge line, passing through the Col de Croix du Ban and then the Col de Fontrijole before descending to Malatray. It reaches Château du Poirier, crosses the Vallon du Poirier, then the Vallon de Larny, which it climbs to reach a place called La Plaine. It descends to Valency, crosses the Ruisseau du Verdy, and after Pollionnay, the Ruisseau du Mercier. It passes through Grezieux-la Varenne, then descends into the Vallon de la Chaudanne before climbing back up to Vaugneray.

This hike, alternating between small roads and dirt tracks on the south-facing side of the Gier valley, largely avoids muddy patches and benefits from a south-facing aspect, making it more enjoyable in winter. From Dargoire, a charming little medieval village, the route heads west, crossing the Bezançon valley over the rustic stone bridge of La Roussilière and, after a detour to the waterfall, climbs up to the village of Saint-Joseph. It runs along the top of the Saint-Martin-la-Plaine zoological park, then passes in front of the small chapel of La Cula, before crossing the hamlet of Tarévieux. It descends to Chagnon, heads east to follow the Durèze and passes under its remarkable Roman bridge. It climbs back up to Genilac, crosses the Féloin valley, then descends to Les Peschures, from where it climbs to Grand leat. At La Renavelière, it climbs through woods in the Bezançon valley and, via La Roussilière, reaches Tartaras, then plunges down to Dargoire.

This pleasant, rural circular walk, in the little-visited hills of the western Monts du Lyonnais, winds its way through the valleys of the Coise and its tributaries. It starts in the charming village of Aubépin and leads to the imposing Château de Lafay, crossing the village of Larajasse and then wandering through fields and forests to isolated farms and peaceful little hamlets: Vaudragon, La Valletière, Chazette, Les Granges, Le Terron, La Grange Bruyère, Gouttenoire, Moulin Vaudray, La Chèvre, La Lardière, La Rivoire, Les Grandes Bruyères and Croix Galant, before returning to Aubépin after this breath of fresh air.

This superb circular hike in the Belledonne massif starts at the Muret car park. The route leads to Lac de la Coche, then crosses the slopes of Roches Jaunes before following the Ruisseau du Clétat and climbing the Col de L'Aigleton. It descends the steep opposite slope, passes the charming little Lacs du Vénétier, then climbs to the Col de la Jasse and reaches the Cime de la Jasse via the ridge. It drops down into the Vallon de la Jasse, passes over the crest of the Montagne de Bédina, and follows a wide track to Plan Cortillets. It crosses the forest to reach Gros Caillou and then Pré de l'Arc, finally taking a gently sloping forest track to complete the loop.

This magnificent circular hike begins with the fairly busy route from the Muret car park to the delightful Lac de la Coche. The trail becomes wild as it follows the GR®738 across the discreet eastern slope of the Belledonne mountain range. It passes under the Pointes du Sifflet, karstic cave de la Scia and Ferrouillet peaks, offering magnificent views of the Olle Valley and the eastern face of the Grand Pic de Belledonne. In a high-mountain mineral landscape, the trail crosses the Col de la Brèche Fendue to reach the Col de la Mine de Fer. Leaving the GR®, it descends towards the superb and popular Lac de Crop, then descends its lock and crosses the forest.

This hike in the Belledonne massif is a version of route no. 44130540, entitled "Le Col de la Mine de Fer et le Lac de Crop en boucle, à partir de Pré Marcel" (The Iron Mine Pass and Lake Crop loop, starting from Pré Marcel), which avoids the passage through the Bois de la Croix Blanche, where the abandoned trail, resembling an adventure course, may put some people off. This loop, starting from Pré Marcel, although shorter, covers the mountain levels, passing from forest to alpine meadows and high-altitude mineral levels, not to mention the magnificent Lac de Crop. From Pré Marcel, climb to the Refuge Jean small pass, then cross the Col de la Mine de Fer. Descend the opposite slope to Lac de Crop, then, after descending its glacial barrier, go around Montagne de Barlet to find the uphill trail and return to the Pré Marcel car park.

This magnificent loop trail starts at the Gâte car park and climbs through the woods to the viewpoint of the impressive and beautiful Cascade de l'Oursière waterfall, then follows the Ruisseau du Doménon stream through a welcoming grassy valley, ideal for a short rest before tackling the climb up a scree slope. At the top, you will find the stream again, which flows peacefully through an alpine meadow in a picture-postcard setting. Once you have crossed a valley, you will discover the charming Lac Merlat in a high mountain atmosphere. Take a short detour to the Refuge de la Pra before continuing on to admire the series of superb lakes: Claret, Longet, Bernard and Léama. After crossing a few rocky outcrops, you come to a cute little lake and then the three Robert Lakes at the foot of the Croix de Chamrousse. The descent from the Brèche Robert Nord leads to the Lac des Pourettes in a marshy basin and finally a passage through the forest brings you back to the car park.

This beautiful circular walk takes place in the wooded hills north of Yzeron. From the village of Yzeron, the fully signposted route passes by Lac du Ronzey and, after crossing a few valleys, reaches Croix de Pars, then the ruins of the old Chapelle Saint-Clair. After a long stretch through the woods, it reaches the Col de Malval, goes around the Crêt Chevreau and descends to the hamlet of Soupat. At the Crêt de Piraluron, it continues towards La Goutte Chérine, Les Esselards, Le Trossin and La Roche, from where it reaches the Crêt de la Madone before descending to Yzeron.

This lovely hike takes you through the valleys of the Garon and Artilla rivers. From Thurins, the circular route passes through the hamlet of Jaricot and La Grand-Croix before descending to Les Bruyères. It crosses the hamlet of Julin, then crosses the Garon before climbing up the opposite slope. On the ridge, at the Croix des Barons, it swings over to La Burlière, crosses the Artilla and, via the Bois du Bacha, reaches the hamlet of La Grande Côte and then the village of Thurins.

This twenty-first stage, once you have crossed the Vésubie, takes place in the Nice Pre-Alps and brings the GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes) to a close by the sea. From the Place de la Fontaine in Utelle, the GR®5 heads west, then south, crossing a few small valleys to reach the hamlet of Cros d’Utelle. It crosses the Vésubie valley, climbs the opposite slope after the town of Levens, ascends through woodland to Colla Partida, passes beneath Mont Cima and descends to the beautiful circular fortified village of Aspremont. The path climbs the western flank of Mont Chauve d’Aspremont without reaching the summit. It descends the Crête de Graus until it reaches Château Renard and then La Bauma. The path enters a valley, which it follows eastwards, then due south towards La Fontaine Sainte, and crosses the bridge over the Autoroute de la Provençale. It enters the city of Nice, which it crosses from north to south to reach Nice Ville railway station.

This twentieth stage marks the end of the crossing of the Mercantour Massif. From Saint-Dalmas, the GR®5 heads south to climb the steep slope towards the Cime de Colmiane, which it bypasses by heading for the Col du Varaire. It crosses the Bois Noir and reaches the Col des Deux Caïres, then the Caïre Gros. The route follows its ridge and, hugging the hillside, passes beneath Mont Chalancha, La Partissuola and the Cime de la Combe before descending to the small pass of Trous. Before the Col du Fort, the path descends to the Granges de la Brasque, crosses the upper part of the Riou du Figaret valley and arrives at the Col d’Andrion. Cutting across the hairpin bends of the M33, the GR®5 reaches the Col des Fournès and the Col de Gratteloup. Through rocky gaps, it runs alongside the Petit Brec d’Utelle and then the Brec d’Utelle. From there, the path descends towards the Crête de l’Albaréa and reaches the Col du Castel Ginesté. It crosses the slope below the ridges of the Têtes du Sac de Bécasse, Parabosquet and Les Pennes to reach the Utelle community lodge.

This nineteenth stage continues the long traverse of the Mercantour. From the Refuge de Longon, the path descends the Vallon du Longon diagonally across the slope to the hamlet of Rougios, before following the Fracha forest road and then taking a shortcut to the pretty Provençal village of Roure. Via a stony descent, it cuts across the hairpin bends of the M130 and M30 roads and reaches Saint-Sauveur-sur-Tinée, which it passes through before climbing up to the Chapelle Saint-Roch. Running along the hillside, it crosses the Vallon du Romarinier, passes through the hamlet of Roubinastre, crosses the Ravin de l’Esclosé and arrives at Rimplas. The GR®5 descends gently towards the small pass of Ragias and crosses the Vallon Gros, before climbing back up to the ridge on that side of the slope and then skirting the hamlet of La Bolline. From there, it climbs to the hamlet of La Roche and then ascends the ridge of the Vallon de Bramafam to reach Saint-Dalmas Valdeblore.

This eighteenth stage continues the traverse of the Mercantour Massif. From Roya, the GR®5 crosses the Vallon de Roya torrent, follows the Vallon de la Maïris upstream and then the Vallon de Sallevieille, before winding its way up to the Plan des Laces and then the Col de Crousette. From the pass, the path winds its way up the left-hand slope of the Vallon de la Culasse towards the Stèle Vallette, follows the ridge on the Vallon du Démant side, crosses the Baisse du Démant and descends to the Col du Refuge and then to the Col des Moulinés. It drops down to the bottom of the Vallon du Démant, crosses its torrent and, on the slope of the opposite side, meets the Vallon de la Gourgette. Above the hamlet of Vignols, it climbs beneath the ruin-like rocks of Les Chambrettes, where a colony of bearded vultures nests, and passes the small pass of Portes de Longon, then winds its way along a stream to reach the Refuge du Longon or Vacherie de Roure.

This seventeenth stage continues the crossing of the Mercantour massif. From Bousiéyas, the GR®5 climbs gently along the forest track, crosses the Tinée valley and reaches the small lake of Lauzarouotte. The path then crosses the Issias valley and reaches the Col de la Colombière. Winding its way down, it plunges straight into the Vallon de la Combe and, hugging the hillside, reaches the Rochepin chalet before returning to the bottom of the Vallon de la Combe and reaching Saint-Dalmas-le-Selvage. The GR®5 follows the Route d’Anelle, crossing a few torrents before reaching the Col d’Anelle. It descends to Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée, which it passes through, before entering the Tinée Valley. At the hamlet of Drogon, it winds its way up the valley side in a series of hairpin bends to the resort of Auron, then passes through woodland to reach the Col du Blainon before descending the sunny side of the Vallon de la Roya and arriving at the “Ma Vieille École” lodge.

This sixteenth stage completes the crossing of the Chambeyron Massif and, after Larche, enters the Mercantour Massif. From Les Granges de Fouillouse, the GR®5 follows the Riou de Fouillouse upstream, passing the ruins of Fort de Plate Lombarde, then, via the Plate Lombarde valley, reaches the Col du Vallonnet. It then descends to Lac du Vallonnet Inférieur, where it heads due south to join an old military road that climbs towards the Viraysse barracks. From there, the GR®5 crosses the Col de Mallemort and descends to the hamlet of Larche. The route follows the Ubayette, then crosses it and reaches the Pont Rouge car park, which marks the entrance to the Mercantour National Park. It then heads due south, climbing to Lac du Lauzanier, then on to Lac de Derrière la Croix, before reaching the Pas de la Cavale. The descent starts off quite steep but then becomes gentler. After the Salse Morene plateau, the path climbs the Col des Fourches and, from the Camp des Fourches, reaches the hamlet of Bousiéyas.

This fifteenth stage crosses the Escreins massif (not to be confused with the Écrins massif) and, via the Ubaye valley, enters the Chambeyron valley. From the Refuge de la Cime, the route—off the GR®5—crosses the Torrent du Mélezet valley and climbs up the Pré Girardin valley via the ski runs; then, on the plateau, it skirts the rocky ridge overlooking Lac Miroir, reaches the lake and rejoins the GR®5. The route climbs up the valley between the shoulder of the Pic des Heuvières and the Crête de Coste Belle, passing the small pass of Sainte-Anne and then the lake of the same name before reaching the Col Girardin. It descends towards a basin, where the Torrent des Séchoirs has its source, and follows it. Clinging to the side of a steep slope, it joins the D25 road in the upper Ubaye valley and continues downstream, alternating between the road and paths close to the river. It leaves the D25 for the Fouillouse road, passes the vertiginous Pont du Châtelet, a tunnel and, via a path, reaches the hamlet of Fouillouse.

This fourteenth stage completes the crossing of the Queyras Massif. From La Chalp, the GR® 5 climbs along the left bank of the Torrent de l’Izoard above Arvieux, then reaches the hamlet of Les Maisons. From there, it heads towards Lac de Roue before descending to Château-Queyras. The route climbs the steep slope on the opposite side, on the right bank of the Torrent de Bramousse, joins a road at a hairpin bend and leaves it at the next one. It continues through the torrent’s valley, reaches the ridge separating the Bramousse and Riou Vert valleys, and, hugging the hillside beneath the peaks of La Selle and Rasis, reaches the Col Fromage. The path descends along the right bank of the Ravin de Rasis to reach Le Villard before arriving at Ceillac, from where it follows the Torrent du Mélezet, alternating between the left and right banks, before reaching the Refuge de la Cime du Mélezet.

This thirteenth stage marks the start of the crossing of the Queyras Massif. From La Vachette, the previous day’s trail joins the GR®5. After a flat start, the forest path winds its way along the banks of the Durance as it descends towards the hamlet of L’Envers du Fontenil, before climbing up to a fortification at the foot of the Fort des Trois Têtes and then crossing the remarkable Pont d’Asfeld. The GR®5 climbs to the Cité Vauban in Briançon, one of France’s finest fortified towns, and descends via the Portes d’Embrun to the Parc de la Schappe. It heads south towards Villar-Saint-Pancrace, then veers off towards Les Ayes via the hamlets of La Mourande, Sachas and Soubeyran, from where it climbs to the Chapelle Saint-Laurent, then on to Le Lauzin, before reaching the Chalets des Ayes. It reaches the Col des Ayes, descends the opposite slope, joins a track at L’Eychaillon and turns left onto it, running alongside the Torrent de la Rivière as far as Brunissard and then La Chalp.

This twelfth stage completes the crossing of the Cerces massifthrough the enchanting Vallée Étroite and the magnificent Vallée de la Clarée. From Les Granges de la Vallée Étroite, the GR®5 climbs south-west, passes the pretty little Lac Chavillon and reaches the Col des Thures. The descent begins gently towards the Cabane des Thures, then becomes steeper in the Combe des Thures, where you can admire the ‘Cheminées de Fée’ (fairy chimneys). It reaches the hamlet of Roubion, crosses the Clarée at the Pont des Armands and passes through the small village of Plampinet before climbing up the gorge of the Torrent des Acles; via the Opon valley, it reaches the Col de Dormillouse, then the Col de la Lauze. From the pass, the path turns towards the Clot des Fonds and descends the Vallon des Baisses, following the Rio Secco torrent, before entering the Durance valley. After Montgenèvre, it leaves the road to follow the Durance and cross a few tributary torrents. At the last one, the route leaves the GR®5 to reach the hamlet of La Vachette.

This eleventh stage crosses the Mont Cenis massif and, in part, the Cerces massif. From the Refuge de l’Orgère, the GR®5 descends to Loutraz, crossing the River Arc via the bridge to the east of Modane. The route goes round the town hall, passes the church, follows the railway line eastwards, then westwards, and climbs the slope beneath the Fréjus Tunnel to pass under the motorway. It continues its ascent towards Notre-Dame du Charmaix. After the Valfréjus resort, it enters the Ruisseau du Charmaix valley and reaches the hamlet of Les Herbiers. Below the old Small Pass, it crosses the stream and, following the road, reaches the Lavoir Reservoir before tackling the steep climb towards La Losa, then, via the Combe de la Grande Montagne, reaches the Col de la Vallée Étroite. After a detour to the east, the descent heads due south, towards the Plaine Tavernette, then the valley of the same name. Finally, the GR®5 follows the Ruisseau de la Vallée Étroite to the Granges de la Vallée Étroite.

This tenth stage completes the crossing of the Vanoise massif. From the Refuge de l’Arpont, the GR®5 descends to the hamlet of Le Mont, crosses the Combe d’Enfer, climbs the flank of the Crête de Belle Place and crosses the valley of the Ruisseau de Bonne Nuit to reach the ruins of the hamlet of La Loza. It follows the contour of a rocky ridge like a balcony and descends via a few hairpin bends towards a ravine, then continues almost level through the Bellecôte valley. The path passes beneath the chairlifts of the Aussois ski resort and runs alongside the Plan Sec and La Fournache mountain huts. It skirts around Lac du Plan d’Amont and runs along the upper edge of Lac du Plan d’Aval before crossing the Col du Barbier. It climbs towards the Barbier chalets and descends to the hamlet of l’Orgère to reach the Refuge de l’Orgère.

This ninth stage takes place in the Vanoise massif. First along the GR® 5 to Val Claret and then via the Via Alpina, which crosses the Haute Vanoise before rejoining the GR® 5.From the refuge, the path joins the GR® 5 at Plan de la Grassaz. The view opens out onto a vast plateau. The path passes Lake Grattaleu, the Refuge du Palet and the pass of the same name. It descends towards Val Claret and leaves the GR® 5 for the Haute Vanoise variant via the Via Alpina and the GR® 55. It climbs towards the Col de Fresse but bypasses it to reach the Col de la Leisse. The trail descends beneath the Grande Motte glacier, skirting the Lac des Nettes, and reaches the Refuge de la Leisse. At the Croé-Vie bridge, the Via Alpina leaves the GR® 55, heads for the Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux, and crosses the Torrent de la Rocheure to rejoin the GR® 5. It climbs towards Lac des Lozières and then, at the foot of the glaciers, runs along a ridge overlooking the Doron Termignon valley and reaches the Refuge de l’Arpont.

This eighth stage begins in the Beaufortin massif and continues into the Vanoise massif after crossing the Isère.From the Refuge de la Balme, the path descends along the left bank of the Ormente torrent, thus avoiding the road on the opposite bank. Cutting across the road’s hairpin bends, it crosses Valezan heading straight south, crosses the Isère at Bellentre, then follows the river to reach Landry. From there, it climbs up to the Hauts de Landry and its beautiful onion-domed church, then on to Martorey, where it heads south before passing through Peisey-Nancroix. Via the D87, it reaches the hamlet of Le Moulin, crosses the Ponturin torrent and follows it upstream, moving from one bank to the other. After the Rosuel mountain refuge, it climbs towards the Lanches de la Rèbe and heads south to rejoin the Ponturin. At Plan des Eaux, it leaves the GR®5, runs alongside Lake Plagne, and reaches the Entre le Lac mountain refuge.

This seventh stage of the GTA crosses the Beaufortain massif to reach the Tarentaise Valley.From the Balme Chalet-Refuge in Beaufortin, the GR®5 trail follows the Bon Nant stream, reaches the Plan des Dames and climbs to the Col du Bonhomme, before arriving at the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme Refuge, where it leaves the GR®TMB. The GR®5 descends and follows the Crête des Gittes to reach the Col de la Sauce, from where it drops down to the Refuge du Plan de la Lai. Following a track, it reaches the Plan Mya lodge, then enters a small valley and, hugging the hillside, climbs towards the hamlet known as La Petite Berge, passes a small pass at La Grande Berge before descending again above the hamlet of Tréicol. The path winds its way into the Vallon du Ruisseau de Treicol, reaches the ruins of Presset and climbs up to the Col du Bresson, overlooked by the Pierra Menta. From the pass, it descends to the Refuge de la Balme Tarentaise, the end point of this stage.

This sixth stage of the GTA GR®5, which is shared with the GR® TMB, takes place in the Mont Blanc massif and then the Beaufortain massif. From Les Houches, the route follows the Maison Neuve chairlift and reaches the Terrain chalets before climbing up to the Col de Voza. The GR®5 descends due south along a wide path towards the Refuge du Fioux and then reaches the hamlet of Bionnassay. It crosses the Torrent de Bionnassay valley and turns sharply westwards before reaching the hamlet of Champel. From there, the path heads south to reach La Gruvaz, from where it descends westwards into the Bon Nant stream, which it crosses to run along the left bank towards the south. It returns to the right bank, passes through Les Contamines-Montjoie following the stream’s axis due south, and goes past the remarkable chapel of Notre-Dame de la Gorge. Continuing to follow the Bon Stream valley, the GR®5 climbs to a natural bridge and crosses a gorge at the Pont Romain de la Téna to reach the Refuge de la Balme.

This fifth stage crosses the Montagne d'Anterne and, via a high-mountain route, the Aiguilles Rouges massif, offering superb views of the Mont Blanc massif. From the refuge, dominated by the famous Rochers des Fiz, the GR®5 trail climbs to the lake and then to the Col d'Anterne. From there, it descends to the Moëde Anterne Refuge and the Chalets de Moëde before skirting the rocky ridge of the Fonds de Moëde. It crosses the Diosaz at the Pont d’Arvelé to climb the slope of the Aiguilles Rouges massif, passing the ruins of the Chalets d’Arvelé before ascending to the Col du Brévent. After a short descent, it climbs again via ladders up the Brévent ridge and reaches its summit, which offers a splendid panorama of the Mont Blanc massif. The GR®5, via a very long and arduous descent, passes the Refuge de Bellachat and then, further down, the monumental statue of Christ the King, before crossing the Arve and entering Les Houches.

This fourth stage crosses the Giffre massif to reach the Anterne Refuge, situated in a magnificent setting at the foot of the impressive Fiz cliff face. From the Refuge de la Golèse, the GR®5 descends into the Clévieux valley (south-east), passing the Chavonnes chalets and then the hamlet of Les Allamands, where it joins the road. It runs alongside the road and follows it as far as Les Moulins, where it follows the left bank of the Clévieux and crosses through Samoëns. On leaving the town, it follows the Giffre upstream, first on the right bank then the left, before leaving the river to follow its tributary, the Giffre des Fonds. The GR®5 crosses it at the Pont des Nants and again at the Pont de Sales, before climbing up to the hamlets of Fardelay and Lignon and entering the Torrent de Sales valley. At the Pleureuse waterfall, it leaves this valley to head north-east, pass the small pass of Anterne and descend to the Anterne stream before climbing up to the Anterne Refuge.

This third stage of the GTA takes you from the Chablais massif to the Giffre massif. It is very long but offers superb views of Les Dents Blanches and Les Dents du Midi in Switzerland. From the Trébentaz Refuge, the GR®5 detour crosses the Mattes ridge and rejoins the main GR®5 route. It descends towards the Pron mountain pasture, then skirts the Coincon ridge towards Lenlevay, descending into a wetland area and climbing back up to the Col de Bassachaux. It runs along the southern flank of the Crête des Rochassons and passes the Col de Chésery (1992 m) to enter Switzerland. It passes the Refuge de Chéseay, Lac Vert and climbs to Portes de l'Hiver, then descends to Chaux-Palin and continues along the hillside to La Pierre. After a short climb to the Col de Coux, it crosses back into France to cross the Torrent de Chardonnière and join the Col de Golèse and its refuge.

This second stage continues the traverse of the Chablais. The route winds through the beautiful Abondance valley amidst magnificent, tranquil scenery. From the Chalet de Bise, there is a steep climb up to the Pas de la Bosse. From the pass, the path descends to the chalets of Chevenne, then follows the Sechet stream, continuing the descent along the right bank to the Chapelle d’Abondance. It runs alongside the Thoules stream and then the Dranse, which it leaves at the hamlet of Le Moulin, before climbing towards Sur Bayard to the Chalet des Crottes. From there, it is best to leave the main GR®5 route and, via a western path, follow the detour leading to the Refuge de Trébentaz, as the Refuge de la Haute Bise – shown on the IGN map – no longer offers accommodation.

The Grande Traversée des Alpes (GTA) mainly follows the GR®5, with a few possible variations such as the crossing of the Haute Vanoise via the GR®55 and the Via Alpina, which this route takes instead of the GR®5 route via the Col de l’Iseran. It crosses the French Alps from north to south, from Saint-Gingolph to Nice. The guide includes web links to the many accommodation options along the route or nearby: mountain huts, lodges, campsites, cabins and shelters, excluding hotels. Although this guidebook details the GTA as a three-week trek, it can be adapted to suit your own pace, with stages of varying lengths, either completed in one go or in sections over several years. This journey, fuelled by the joy of freedom in unspoilt natural surroundings, will remain a superb and unforgettable experience, offering, moreover, the opportunity to meet many people with whom you can share this same passion for the mountains.

This first stage of the Grande Traversée des Alpes (GTA), from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean, takes place in the Chablais massif. The path climbs up the Novel valley on the left bank of the Morge, below the hamlet of La Meurtaz, then follows the D30 road, which it overlooks after the hamlet of Jordy. On leaving Novel, the path winds its way above the hairpin bends of the D30 to La Planche. There, it leaves the main valley route to climb due south towards the chalets of Neuteu and on to the Col de Bise, before descending to the Chalets de Bise.