Pic de Miquéu circular route via Coumo Redo and Calihourc

Park your car in the small car park (maximum 4 or 5 cars) below the entrance to the Monastery of the Sisters of Bethlehem, in Peyras.

From Peyras (S/E) to the Aülhet hut (7) via Coumo Redo (3) and the charcoal kilns

(S/E) The path, which is fairly wide, starts to the right of the entrance gate. Flanked by low walls of large dry stones, it runs horizontally for a few dozen metres and is clearly marked in yellow.

(1) At the first Fork in the road, go straight on (to the left, the path is signposted ‘Cabane d’Aoulhet’).
Choose this route over the usual path to climb up to the Cabane d’Aoulhet (see details in the ‘Practical Information’ section below).
Reach the Ruisseau de la Redo. Ford the stream. Go round the ruin and climb south-west for about a hundred metres. Just behind a tree, at stone marker no. 193, leave the path that descends into the valley and turn right, heading uphill towards the west, in the direction of Coumo Lio.
Numerous stone markers (white and red) dot the massif; they mark the boundary of the undivided Saint Pé–State state-owned forest.
The path is well-defined and fairly wide, but is not signposted at the start. However, you will soon come across some blue spray-painted markings on the trees.

(2) At the^first Fork in the road, take the hairpin bend to the left to climb up to the Sarrat dets Castets. The path is known as a favourite spot for wild boar hunters, but its route no longer appears on any map. However, there are numerous blue markings.
This old path, though perfectly marked and well-maintained, takes you up to an altitude of around 600 m, where it turns towards the other side of the Serrat, towards the Coumo Redo ravine.
It then continues along this side of the ridge, crossing the boundary of the Saint-Pé ‘Integral Biological Reserve’ (RBI), marked by blue lines on a white background (or simply blue lines) and a signpost (unfortunately broken in March 2017), until it reaches the Redo stream and crosses it via a fine stone slab, just downstream of a modest 1.50 m waterfall (dry in September 2016, but flowing a little in March 2017).

(3) Continue due east along the clearly visible path, although it is narrower and occasionally obstructed by trees lying across the slope. Reach the very steep ravine of a tributary of the Redo, featuring several other charming little waterfalls.
Do not cross the ravine here! Head up the ravine, keeping to the left bank, following a rather uninviting path but one that is clearly marked in orange. A few dozen metres higher up, cross the ravine and continue until you reach Pla de Bers, just below the crossroads marked 824.

(4) The rest of the route is more conventional: take the historic Charbonniers path opposite, known as the Tachouères (badgers in the Bigourdan dialect), leading to Bat Séco (or the Cabane des Italiens) and the Aülhet mountain pastures.
At Pla de Bers, just after the crossroads, don’t miss the old hut and the charcoal burners’ metal vat, to the right of the path. The path is clearly marked in yellow and runs through a tall mountain beech forest. At a bend, you’ll come to another crossroads.

(5) Take the path on the right at this bend to head due west and begin the ascent of the Charbonniers, leaving the continuation of the path towards Bat Séco to your left, heading due south.
You go round the base (first south, then east) of the Puntou de las Crampes (name not shown on the map) at 1,016 m.
You’ll come across yellow markings (though they’re quite old and broad).
The path passes a remarkable rocky outcrop on the right. In sinkholes and even on the mountainside, you will come across several old metal charcoal kilns (of the Moreau type), abandoned there by their former owner, probably just before the Second World War. There is still charcoal in several of them. This stretch is particularly picturesque. Reach the edge of the forest, leading to a wooden signpost for the nature reserve (RNR Pibeste-Aoulhet).

(6) Continue straight ahead and you’ll soon reach the Aülhet (Aoulhet) Refuge Hut.

From Aülhet (7) to the Pics de Miquéu and d’Hourbilagous (10)

(7) Resume the route by climbing across the grassy slope behind the hut, heading towards the Col d’Espadres (signpost), also marked as Espades on maps. Pass the rock on your right, which bears a commemorative plaque marking a 1944 weapons airdrop.

Head towards the nearest summit, the Soum d’Artigue, and reach the small pass of Aülhet at 1,215 m. Before you lies the vast and beautiful summer pasture of l’Artigue (which means ‘pasture acquired by clearing’ in Occitan). Take the narrow path that winds to your right up the hillside, beneath the rocky massif.

Pass by the drinking troughs and the shelter beneath the rock, then the Fontaine de la Digitale (note as you pass that a pipe channels this spring to the drinking troughs below and to the Aülhet hut). The route is still marked in yellow, but the markings are more widely spaced. Take care not to miss a mark!
Reach the Col de Larbastan (1,350 m), beneath the peak of the same name at 1,368 m.

(8) Continue to the left of the pass, climbing towards the Soum de la Génie Braque.
Climb steeply up the slopes of the Pic de Miquéu and the Pic de Hourbilagous. Leave both of them to your left.
Please note that in winter, the snow-covered northern slopes of this peak are known avalanche zones.
This is the path towards the Cuts d’Ausèth (sinkholes or large funnels, literally ‘birds’ nests’ in Bigourdan).

(9) As soon as you emerge from the woods, well before the Col Bosc deth Troncar (1,455 m), head off-trail up the slope towards the Pic de Miquéu. You’ll quickly reach the ridge and continue on to the nearby Pic de Miquéu (1,452 m). Unfortunately, the cairn at the summit has been significantly reduced in size over the years. But from there, the 360° view is magnificent, taking in the valleys below, the surrounding peaks and those further afield, all the way to the main border range.

Near the summit, there are three cavities, including one inaccessible hole known as ‘Le Trou Didier’, whilst the other two can be entered safely with just a torch.

From the Pic de Miquéu (10) to Calihourc

(10) Take the return route, passing by the neighbouring Pic d’Hourbilagous (1,461 m). From there, there is nothing particularly noteworthy as the view is less impressive, except that it is slightly higher than its neighbour.

(9) Turn right and follow the route back in the opposite direction to the way out, until you reach the Alhouet Mountain Hut.

(7) Head towards Bat dé Haü, due west, along the path known as the Mesplé, following the contour line and marked in yellow. At the 1,180-metre mark, you’ll reach a beautiful, large clearing with a single tree in the middle, right by the path; this is Couret Béroy.

(11) In the clearing, leave the path and turn right towards the north, heading towards the edge of the woodland. At the edge (in^{the second} row), you will find a tree marked ‘BA’. Then, in the beech woodland on the ridge of the Serrat dets Castets, take a barely visible, unmarked track known as the ‘Chemin des Brioles’.
There are no official coloured markings, but there are so-called ‘cutting’ markings: from time to time, a small boxwood bush cut at hand height, or a branch, or a mark on a tree.
NB: since 2018: some markers in the form of red dots or dashes on the trees. Descend to WP2.
Make sure you stay on the ridge as you begin the descent. This is the trickiest part of the walk. There are no dangerous sections, but you may need to use your hands at times.
Avoid the first rocky outcrops – which are not particularly dangerous – by keeping them on your left.
Leave the modest rocky summit, marked at 946, on your right and continue the descent, keeping slightly to the right of the ridge; at times, no path is visible.

(12) You’ll reach the place known as Calihoùrc (meaning ‘dark place’ or ‘dark wood’ in the Bigourdan dialect), a vast sharp limestone pavement of light grey limestone rocks ravaged by erosion. Shrubbery has overgrown this area for over a century.
The place is truly magical.
Leave Calihoùrc on the right (to avoid the rocky outcrops on the left).
Continue along the ridge, off the beaten track through the undergrowth.

(2) This will take you back to the junction from the outward journey.
Return to the starting point via the same route you took on the way there (S/E).

Information on the restored path:
The historic Coumo Redo path was restored by hunters a few years ago. This path is neither shown on the IGN map nor officially signposted.
The easiest route is to wade across the Coumo Redo (or use the rickety footbridge if the water is too deep), then head up to a ruined barn and the former site of a Second World War youth work camp, Les Castets, now used as a camping site by Scouts in the summer.
Immediately after the ruined barn, turn left and head to the far end of the clearing. The path is no longer marked on the IGN map (though it can still be found on OpenStreetMap).

As is often the case, I’m taking you along little-known, unmarked tracks that are rather hostile to walkers: particularly here, on the ridge between Coumo Redo and Coumo Lio, both on the way there and back.
All these ancient sites – and sometimes the paths themselves – are briefly described by Abbé B. Abadie in his 1969 book *Le Sanglier du Picharrot*.

Warning!
This hike takes place in the heart of the countryside in a rather challenging environment: steep slopes, rocky outcrops, cliffs, thorny vegetation, and at times a complete lack of signposting – or even a lack of a path altogether… This is why it is reserved for experienced, fit walkers with a good sense of direction. A GPS device may also prove very useful.
Furthermore, the Visorando track for this walk is only approximate due to poor satellite reception, particularly towards the end after the ::12.
I have classified this hike as ‘Difficult’ due to the challenges described above, and particularly the numerous sections off the beaten track and without signposting.
In winter, when there is snow, the rating would rise to “Very difficult”. I completed the entire route, except for the descent from the Serrat dets Castets, after the (11). It doesn’t seem any more complicated than that to do, provided you remain extremely vigilant.

Estimated time
Having completed this route as part of a longer 8-hour hike, I estimate the time for this particular route at 5 hours 30 minutes, including breaks and a picnic. This is a rather tight estimate, given the route’s difficulties. Set off early and allow at least 6 hours to be on the safe side.

Water sources
Only the Fontaine de la Digitale is known to be safe to drink. You should be wary of all other springs or water sources you come across, as drinking water in the mountains is not guaranteed to be risk-free...
Take at least 1.5 litres of water per person.

Places to stop and take shelter
In the event of heavy rain or thunderstorms, the only real shelter along the route is the Aülhet sheepfold (7). There are also a few makeshift shelters consisting of low walls or rock faces dotted here and there.

Equipment
Bring the usual equipment for a mid-mountain hike (hiking boots, suitable clothing, rainwear, water, food, survival blanket, knife, compass, map, whistle, GPS, etc.).

Traffic
In spring and summer, you may come across the occasional hiker or shepherd, as well as herds of cattle, sheep and horses at L’Aülhet, L’Artigue and as far as Le Miquéu. Very rarely elsewhere during the warmer months and very, very rarely in winter.

Spelling of place names
Several place names have different spellings: in Occitan, Bigourdan, Gascon, Frenchified Gascon, French, and the IGN’s distorted version.

(7) “Cabane Refuge d’Aoulhet”:
this is now a magnificent timber-clad building, divided into two sections, one for shepherds and the other for walkers, hunters and cavers (since late 2016). There are a few recent cattle fences nearby.
Aülhet (or Aoulhet) in Bigourdan comes from the Gascon words aouèilhé, aouèillè, agouèillo, aouèillo, meaning ‘ewe’ or ‘shepherd’, hence the pronunciation ‘aouyette’, phonetically a~ u j E t.
Despite the twists and turns of our path, it took us just 2 hours 25 minutes, including breaks and photos – barely 30 minutes longer than via the traditional direct routes (1) – (4) – (7).

(10) “Pic de Miquéu”
Pronounced Mi ke u. “Miquéu” is a vocalised variant of “miquel”, a dialectal form of “Michel”, a baptismal name of biblical origin derived from the Hebrew “mikael”, meaning “who is like God”.

"Calihoùrc"
It was here that Father Bernard Abadie, a keen walker and local caver, posed for a rare and timeless photograph, seated on the rock with his pipe in hand.
Because of their evocative shapes, these large rocks, carved into the form of megaliths and standing upright on their bases, were called ‘Couhéssadéres’ (confessionals) by the charcoal burners who had frequented the Très-Croutz forest for centuries…
There is a very special atmosphere here…

Flora and fauna
The vegetation of this massif reflects the extreme dryness of the soil, due to the terrain and the highly permeable nature of the subsoil
which are highly permeable, though this is offset by very high rainfall and cloud cover: boxwood, beech, lime and hazel are ubiquitous… This is why the wooded slopes are very damp and can sometimes be very slippery. (source: Saint-Pé Tourist Office).
A large part of the walk takes place within the Saint-Pé “Integral Biological Reserve”, covering 1,010 ha of the 2,588 ha of the undivided forest of Saint-Pé (see the onf.fr1 and Natura 2000 websites).
Regarding the rationale for leaving ‘dead’ trees in place, there are some interesting articles on the Wikipedia pages ‘Deadwood’ and ‘List of ancient primeval forests’.

With a bit of luck, you may also come across a wealth of wildlife. In particular, wild boar, roe deer, chamois, and occasionally mouflon at the Pic de Miquéu, as well as countless birds and various insects, and sometimes amphibians (frogs, toads, salamanders).

Alternate routes
After crossing the Redo (3) at the tributary, there is a rudimentary path leading to a point just below Pla de Bers:
As soon as you reach the ravine of the tributary, cross it; a path is visible but not signposted.
You must then make your way through the vegetation, heading 060°: brambles, thick undergrowth, beech trees lying across the slope… You must persevere, as after 35 minutes you’ll join the yellow-marked path at a spot recently marked with cairns. This might be worth considering if you’re heading back down to Peyras without climbing up to Aülhet.

You can enhance the suggested full route with:
- a detour via the Soum de la Génie Braque (1,529 m); allow an extra 30 minutes there and back,
- a visit to several caves, chasms and karstic caves, most of which aren’t marked on the IGN map (1,600 cavities are recorded in the massif), provided you have the necessary skills and equipment!

A bit of history
The Saint Pé forest is also known as the Très-Croutz forest (or Très-Crouts, Tres Croutz, Tres Crouts or Tres Crots).
The origin of the name “Très-Croutz” is thought to derive from the “Trois Croix” (très croutz in Bigourdan/Gascon) carved into the stone at a place called “la Toue”, right in the heart of the massif, at an altitude of around 1,400 metres.
The Three Crosses bear witness to age-old pastoral disputes between Asson, Salles and Saint-Pé-de-Bigorre.
In 1569, the Protestant Bearnese from the Asson valley decided to attack the Bigourdans of the Estrèms de Salles, with whom they were in dispute over the Azun and Maumula mountains. The 1,500 men intended to lay waste to the village of Salles and seize all the livestock from Vergoun. But the battle was won by the Bigourdans. These conflicts became so serious that the King’s army had to be called in. It was impossible for the Bishop of Tarbes to restore harmony. Source: Abbé B. Abadie, *Le Sanglier du Picharrot*, published by Marrimpoey Jeune.
At a place known as “Très-Croutz”, the bishoprics of Tarbes, Lescar and Oloron converged on this mountain.
Today, all that remains are three crosses carved into a rock, along with the inscription ‘1716’. They can be found on the IGN map between the ‘u’ and the ‘e’ of ‘La Toue’, south-west of Miquéu.

Nearby attractions
- The town of Lourdes and the Marian shrine;
- The Batsurguère Valley;
- The village of Saint-Pé-de-Bigorre, the village itself, its cultural heritage, its events, the Très-Croutz forest and the Pibeste-Aoulhet regional nature reserve, water sports;
- The story behind the reserve’s new signposting in autumn 2014;
- The Gaves Valley

Find out more...
- It is well worth consulting the website and publications of the Pibeste-Aoulhet Regional Nature Reserve. The most notable of these is the “reserve guidebook”, packed with information, routes and anecdotes!
- The Saint-Pé Tourist Office also publishes numerous brochures and detailed walking itineraries. One of the brochures may be of interest for discovering the massif’s flora and fauna: the ‘Karst Trail’ brochure, even though it does not cover this particular walk.
- The former Peyras farm, now the Monastery of Bethlehem.
- You can immerse yourself in local literature:
Abbé B. Abadie, *Le Sanglier du Picharrot* (published by Marrimpoey Jeune),
Jacques-Emile Mengelle, *Bigorre de mon enfance*,
Jean-Claude Mengelle, *Le solitaire de la Gargante*.