Bédeille and Les Picharrots via the rangers’ path

Meet at the car park below the Monastery of Bethlehem, in Saint-Pé-de-Bigorre, at the former Peyras farm.

(S/E) The path starts from this small car park, not towards the monastery gate but directly from the car park itself, on the right as you enter, through the bushes and undergrowth, towards the bed of the Génie Longue.

(1) Cross the stream via a lovely brand-new footbridge (as of September 2016). Head straight ahead along a tiny, unmarked path that climbs up the slope of the Montagnou de la Pale, beneath the high-voltage power line. The path winds several times beneath and to the right of the high-voltage power line.

(2) Directly beneath the power line, the path reaches a junction that is not visible from the ground, where one branch heads off to the left (out of sight) and the other to the right – the one you will take. This is the Chemin des Gardes (of the Saint-Pé State Forest). Follow this path along the western slope of the Croupe de la Pale, beneath the Picoulets (the small peaks). Depending on the season or when the path was last cleared, progress may be slowed by brambles and bushes obstructing this ancient path. Pass under the high-voltage power line for the first time.
From there, the path is sometimes difficult to follow on the ground. Be sure to follow the ‘logging markers’ carefully (see Practical Information below) as there are no coloured markings.
NB: The path is only partially marked on the paper IGN map, but is fully marked on the digital version (the Visorando map).
Pass under the high-voltage line a second time. Shortly afterwards, be careful not to take the path that heads north-east, which is also clearly marked with logging trail markers.

Reach the Bédeille ravine. The stream is dry (as it runs underground) most of the time (even along the section shown as a solid line on the map).

(3) The path is still clearly marked on the IGN map with a dotted line but is difficult to find when approaching from this direction. Look carefully again for the logging trail markings. If using a GPS, make sure you’re positioned towards the left of the marked path.
NB: There is also an off-trail section roughly following the dotted line on the IGN map, starting from a large flat rock slab in the Bédeille and passing under a long rocky outcrop, but it is very steep and quite dangerous.
The path passes a striking natural feature: a rock formation overhanging the path. If you turn round, you can see the resemblance to a wild boar’s head.
Stay on the path until just to the left of the 803-metre mark.
This marks the start of a gentle descent of 55 metres in elevation. You’ll pass through carpets of mountain daffodils.

(4) Reach a headland overlooking the Puyau de Caubole at an altitude of around 740 metres. There are a few markings carved into the trees; these indicate the boundary of the private enclave within the nature reserve. Begin the descent towards the Puyau de Caubole on a narrow but clear path (as of 2016).

(5) Reach the Puyau de Caubole, an area outside the boundaries of the Nature Reserve. The first destination of the walk has been reached.
Although this former meadow is now overgrown, the setting is enchanting and perfect for a break. Hundreds of butterflies, a lovely ray of sunshine filtering through the tall trees that have now taken over the site, and the charming stream which, rising at the foot of the Montné cliffs, flows into the Génie Longue just a stone’s throw away. In its bed, pebbles as red as blood!

The rest of the walk is easier. Leave Puyau de Caubole via the west, between two rows of so-called ‘dry stone’ walls – which are actually covered in moss and may well be an old ‘bargueira’. Follow a narrow path to quickly rejoin the main path from Peyras to Les Picharrots.

(6) Return section: turn left onto the path, which is now marked in yellow. Don’t expect a magnificent, wide, well-marked path. It’s more of a human-made track, often overgrown with vegetation or cluttered with branches, or even fallen trees, although it was cleared in January 2019.

The path is narrower than the Chemin des Gardes. You’ll be walking through woodland overgrown with snowdrops in season (December–January). At times the path winds through the bed of the Génie, at other times it veers away from it. The final 100 metres are easier to walk along within the bed of the Génie. This entire section was marked with cairns in early 2019.

This waterfall is an outward-curving rock formation over which flows the headwaters of the Génie Longue, a tributary of the Aguée rivers. On the right bank, a stream of similar size flows into it, originating from the Fontaine d’Escorcens at the head of the Cot du Prat d’Aüreilh valley.
Water flows vary greatly depending on the season and, in particular, following stormy downpours on the slopes above.

(7) Retrace your steps.

(6) Next, the return route follows the banks of the Génie Longue stream.
This descent is enchanting: small waterfalls, pools, a winding riverbed carved through bluish-grey, black and white limestone, and water of remarkable clarity.

(8) Below the Soum d’Artigue (de Richou) (1,230 m), the path passes right by a cave not to be missed, the Tute Hau Pas, on the left.

(9) Continue along the Génie Longue, heading north then north-west, until you cross the first footbridge.

(1) Carry on along the river until you reach a second footbridge, the one you crossed on the way there.
You’ll soon reach the car park (S/E).

As is so often the case, I’m taking you along little-known, unmarked paths that are sometimes rather hostile to walkers: particularly here, along the entire western flank of the Montagnou de la Pale and beneath the cliffs of the Montné.
All these ancient places, their shepherds and, at times, the paths are briefly described by Abbé B. Abadie in his 1969 book *Le Sanglier du Picharrot*.

Warning
This hike takes place in the heart of the countryside in an environment that can be challenging: steep slopes, rocky outcrops, crags, thorny vegetation, and at times a complete lack of signposting or even a defined path. This is why it is reserved for experienced hikers with a good sense of direction. A GPS device may also prove very useful.
The IGN map shows a path everywhere, which encourages you to look for it, but very often it is well hidden or sometimes non-existent.
Furthermore, satellite reception can be difficult in this very steep-sided valley.
I have classified this hike as ‘Difficult’ due to the challenges described above, particularly the numerous unmarked sections and, above all, its length and elevation gain. It is a demanding route, suitable only for experienced hikers.

Shortcut markings
(Non-standard term)
This is a very old practice used by hunters, who mark a route by cutting notches into young trees 1 to 5 cm in diameter, at a height of approximately 1.50 metres. Here in Très-Croutz, these are most often box trees. In addition, one may also find deep notches made with a machete in larger tree trunks.
This technique allows hunters or walkers to follow the trail by sight.
Its advantage lies in its simplicity and its minimal environmental impact compared to paint. Furthermore, it is much more durable.
The downside is that intersections of paths marked in this way may lead you somewhere other than your intended destination...

Estimated time
I completed this route in just under 8 hours and 20 minutes in 2016, including breaks and a picnic. But it took 2 hours less in 2019 thanks to the effective clearing work carried out on both branches of the trail. Set off early, though, and allow 6 to 8 hours to be on the safe side.

Water sources
There are no springs or rivers along the route that are known to be safe to drink from.
Please note that drinking water in the mountains is not without risk...
Make sure you bring plenty of water (at least 2.5 litres per person).

Places to stop and take shelter
In the event of heavy rain or thunderstorms, there are no refuges along the route, except for La Tute Hau Pas and, very possibly, the dilapidated Puyau de Caubole hut. There are also a few makeshift shelters formed by low walls or rock faces scattered here and there.

Equipment
Bring the usual equipment for a mid-mountain hike (hiking boots, suitable clothing, rainwear, water, food, survival blanket, knife, compass, map, whistle, GPS, etc.).

Traffic
In both summer and winter, apart from the occasional group of hunters or a few rare hikers, the route is usually walked alone; there aren’t even any herds at Puyau de Caubole.

Spelling of place names – Toponymy
Several place names have different spellings: in Occitan, Bigourdan, Gascon, Frenchified Gascon, French, and the IGN’s distorted version.
It is amusing to note that ‘Cascade des Picharrots’ is a pleonasm, resulting from the spelling errors of surveying engineers. Indeed, ‘picharrot’ means ‘small waterfall’ and comes from the Gascon ‘pishorrar/pishorlar’ (‘to drip, to trickle’) or ‘pishorret’ (‘stream of water’).
This area of the Très Croutz forest is, in fact, called Les Picharrots or Le Picharrot.
We therefore now say “The Picharrot Waterfall” or “Le Picharrot”, in the cliffs “des Picharrots”.

Flora and fauna
The vegetation of this massif reflects the extent of soil dryness caused by the terrain and the highly permeable nature of the substrates
, which is highly permeable, but this is offset by very high rainfall and cloud cover: boxwood, beech, lime and hazel are ubiquitous. This is why the wooded slopes are very damp and sometimes very slippery. Source: Saint-Pé Tourist Office).
Part of the walk takes place within the Saint-Pé Strict Nature Reserve, marked with blue trail markers and signposted with specific signs, covering 1,010 ha of the 2,588 ha of the undivided forest of Saint-Pé.
See the onf.fr1 and Natura 2000 websites).
On the subject of why dead trees are left in place, there are some interesting articles on the Wikipedia pages ‘Deadwood’ and ‘List of ancient primeval forests’.

With a bit of luck, you may also come across a wealth of wildlife. In particular, wild boar, roe deer, chamois, occasionally mouflon, countless birds and various insects, and sometimes amphibians (frogs, toads, salamanders).

Alternatives
You can enhance this route by:
- a short detour into the Bédeille ravine, up to the 800-metre mark without any climbing equipment,
- a visit to several caves, chasms and karstic caves, most of which are not marked on the IGN map (1,600 cavities are recorded in the massif), provided you have the necessary skills and equipment.

A bit of history
The Saint Pé Forest is also known as the Très-Croutz Forest (or Très-Crouts, Tres Croutz, Tres Crouts or Tres Crots).
The origin of the name Très-Croutz is thought to derive from the ‘Trois Croix’ (très croutz in Bigourdan/Gascon) carved into the stone at a place called La Toue, right in the heart of the massif, at an altitude of around 1,400 metres.
The Three Crosses bear witness to age-old pastoral conflicts between Asson, Salles and Saint-Pé-de-Bigorre.
In 1569, the Bearnese Protestants from the Asson valley decided to attack the Bigourdans of the Estrèms de Salles, with whom they were disputing the Azun and Maumula mountains. The 1,500 men intended to lay waste to the village of Salles and carry off all the livestock from Vergoun. But the battle was won by the Bigourdans. These conflicts became so serious that the King’s army had to be called in. It was impossible for the Bishop of Tarbes to restore harmony. Source: Abbé B. Abadie, *Le Sanglier du Picharrot*, published by Marrimpoey Jeune.
At a place known as Très-Croutz, the bishoprics of Tarbes, Lescar and Oloron converged on this mountain.
Today, all that remains are three crosses carved into a rock, along with the inscription ‘1716’. They can be found on the IGN map between the ‘u’ and the ‘e’ of La Toue.

Nearby attractions
- The town of Lourdes, the Marian Shrine,
- The Batsurguère valley,
- The village of Saint-Pé-de-Bigorre, the village itself, its cultural heritage, its events, the remaining part of the Très-Croutz Forest and the trails in:
- The Pibeste-Aoulhet Regional Nature Reserve, water sports,
- The story behind the reserve’s new signposting in autumn 2014,
a little further on:
The Gaves Valley

Find out more.
- It is well worth consulting the website and publications of the Pibeste-Aoulhet Regional Nature Reserve. The most notable of these is the reserve’s guidebook, packed with information, routes and anecdotes.
- The Saint-Pé Tourist Office also publishes numerous brochures and detailed hiking suggestions. One of the brochures may be of interest for discovering the massif’s flora and fauna:
Karst Trail Brochure, although it does not cover this particular walk.
- The former Peyras Farm, now:
Bethlehem Monastery.
- You can immerse yourself in local literature:
Abbé B. Abadie, *Le Sanglier du Picharrot*, published by Marrimpoey Jeune,
Jacques-Emile Mengelle, *Bigorre of My Childhood*,
Jean-Claude Mengelle, *Le solitaire de la Gargante*.