Poland walks

Bielsko-Biała was formed by the merger of two towns separated by the River Biała: Bielsko in Silesia and Biała in Galicia. This circular route connects their two centres. On the hill in the old town, you’ll discover the Rynek and its arcades, St Nicholas’s Cathedral with its bell tower inspired by Italian campaniles, and the only statue of Martin Luther in Poland. Across the river, the old town of Biała reveals the façades of the ‘little Polish Vienna’, its imposing town hall and the statues of Bolek, Lolek and Reksio, heroes from the country’s oldest animation studio. In the evening, the illuminated monuments and neon lights on the Biała Bridge add to the atmosphere, though the circular route is well worth a stroll at any time of day.

To the north of Kraków, Ojców National Park unfolds its limestone valleys amongst white cliffs, rocky spires and beech forests. Starting from the Złota Góra plateau, this circular route descends into the Prądnik Valley, passes at the foot of the ruins of Ojców Castle and crosses the village before reaching Jaskinia Ciemna, which opens out like a balcony above the valley. The route then takes in the viewing points on Góra Koronna, passes through the rocky gateway of Brama Krakowska and climbs up to Jaskinia Łokietka. The return journey takes you through the coolness of the Dolina Sąspowska, where the path follows the stream from footbridge to footbridge until it reaches a long wooden boardwalk.

A former royal capital situated on the Vistula, Kraków unfolds its cobbled squares, narrow streets and neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct atmosphere. This stroll takes you from one end of the city to the other, from the vast Rynek Główny and St Mary’s Basilica to St Florian’s Gate, then through the Green Ring of the Planty to the Gothic courtyard of the Collegium Maius. You then climb Wawel Hill, between the Cathedral of the Kings of Poland and the ramparts overlooking the river, before greeting the dragon at the foot of the cliff. The route continues to Kazimierz, with its synagogues and terraces, crosses the Vistula via a footbridge adorned with bronze acrobats, then takes in Podgórze, the former independent town. It ends on the hills, between Krakus Hill – an abandoned quarry now overgrown with vegetation – and Ghetto Heroes’ Square.

Starting from Sromowce Niżne, in Lesser Poland, this circular route takes you to the Trzy Korony, the ‘Three Crowns’, whose limestone peaks rise up in the heart of the Pieniny National Park. The ascent begins in the Wąwóz Szopczański, a deep gorge flanked by two high white cliffs, then continues through the forest along a long path of steps to the Przełęcz Szopka pass, where the view already stretches as far as the Tatra Mountains. A final rocky outcrop leads to Okrąglica and its metal walkway clinging to the rock face, suspended above the Dunajec gorge, its villages and its patchwork of fields. The return route winds down the other side, through the Polana Kosarzyska clearing, before plunging back into the forest and returning to the village.

To the east of Wrocław, the Centennial Hall displays its immense concrete dome, a masterpiece listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This circular walk takes you around the entire site and the surrounding Szczytnicki Park. You’ll walk past the base of the great hall and the slender spire of the Iglica, reach a remarkable log church nestled amongst the trees, then stroll along the banks of the ponds and canals in the landscaped park. You’ll walk alongside the Four Domes Pavilion, passing under the vine-covered pergola whilst admiring the jets of the Multimedia Fountain, opposite the market hall.

Starting from Karpacz in Lower Silesia, this long mountain hike leads to Śnieżka, the highest peak in the Sudetes, on the border between Poland and the Czech Republic. You’ll first climb through the wild Sowia Dolina valley, passing over footbridges and past the Kaskada Joanna waterfall, before reaching the long ridge of the Karkonosze Mountains and following its peaks all the way to Śnieżka. The descent runs alongside the Kocioł Małego Stawu glacial cirque and its lake nestled beneath the rock faces, then heads down through the forest towards Karpacz, in the heart of the Karkonosze National Park. Please note that the high ridge remains snow-covered and windswept for much of the year.

A metropolis in Lower Silesia nestled amongst the many branches of the Odra, Wrocław ranks among Poland’s most beautiful cities, with its bridges, islands and hundreds of bronze dwarves hidden on street corners. This stroll takes you from one end of the city to the other, taking in its most iconic sights. You’ll set off in search of the little musician dwarves, cross the vast Rynek lined with colourful patrician houses, stroll along the banks of the Odra opposite the cathedral’s spires, then head for Cathedral Island and its cobbled alleyways. The walk then heads towards the regenerated Nadodrze district and its painted courtyards, crossing a string of islands and bridges as it follows the river, before ending in front of a striking locomotive towering skywards. A wonderful way to discover Wrocław on foot, combining medieval heritage and urban art.

In the heart of Biebrza National Park, Poland’s largest, this circular forest trail circles Fort IV of the Osowiec fortress. Built by the Russian army to block access to the Biebrza Marshes, the stronghold was largely blown up by its garrison during the Great War. Fort IV, the most recent of the four structures and one of the first to be cast entirely in concrete, lies in ruins, overgrown with moss in the middle of a sparse pine forest: gutted barracks, a vaulted powder magazine, small blockhouses and earthen ramparts bordering a moat, overlooked by an observation platform.

On the edge of eastern Poland, the Narew National Park protects a wild river that branches into a multitude of intertwining channels, nicknamed the ‘Amazon of Podlasie’. From the village of Waniewo, the famous kładka – a long wooden footbridge – winds its way through the reed beds and marshes. The walkway is interspersed with waterways which you cross yourself on small floating rafts, hauling yourself along a chain from one bank to the other. Further on, a watchtower stands on the hilltop of the former fortified castle that once guarded the river crossing.

Situated on the banks of the River Narew, on the edge of Podlasie, Tykocin is regarded as one of Poland’s most beautiful small Baroque towns and was for a long time a major centre of Jewish life in the country. This easy circular walk first follows the ‘bulwary’ promenade along the river, opposite the old metal bridge and its willow-lined banks. It then heads into the heart of the town, from the Great Synagogue to the vast square where the statue of Hetman Czarniecki and the Baroque Church of the Holy Trinity stand, before meandering through the cobbled streets lined with traditional wooden houses.

A three-stage traverse of the High Tatras, starting from the heights of Zakopane in Poland and ending in Starý Smokovec in Slovakia. The route begins with a first day spent mainly in woodland, leading to the Schronisko mountain hut. The second stage, which is much more demanding, forms the heart of the trek: after a long walk through the valley and the forest, a particularly steep climb takes you up to the heights of the Tatras and across the Slovak border before reaching the Sliezski Dom hotel. The final day, which is considerably shorter, takes you back down to Starý Smokovec. A hike full of contrasts, with the second day suited to hikers in very good physical condition.

This is the key stage of the crossing and by far the most demanding. After a start to the route requiring a detour via the road, the trail enters a wooded valley and follows a river before tackling the long climb to the heights of the Tatras. The end of the stage presents the bulk of the difficulty, with an elevation gain of around 1,000 metres over just 3 km. Covering 21 km with 1,200 m of ascent, this day’s walk requires a very good level of fitness.

This first stage allows you to gradually leave the Zakopane area behind and enter the wooded areas of the Tatra National Park. A relatively balanced day’s walk before the much more demanding mountain stage the following day.