Part of this description is taken from the summer version of the walk by the same author, described here:
Le Pimené, an exceptional viewpoint over the Cirque de Gavarnie, and part of the winter hiking route by the same author described here: Hourquette d’Alans from Gavarnie and the Espuguettes refuge in winter
Park in the local authority car park on the right on the outskirts of the village, or – before 9.30 am in high season – in the village itself, in one of the private car parks. Both charge €5 per day (in 2019).
(S/E) Finish walking through the village, heading towards the unmissable cirque that rises directly to the south. Cross the Pont Brioule bridge near the gendarmerie and continue along the right bank for about 500 metres. You will reach the junction for the Refuge des Espuguettes, the Hourquette d’Alans and the Barrage des Gloriettes. Yellow signposts indicate all the destinations.
(1) Start the ascent on the left, first alongside the Ruisseau d’Alans, which flows down from the Petit Pimené and the Espuguettes, then through the Bois de Pailla. Although the path is not signposted, it is very clearly marked. On emerging from the Bois de Pailla, at around 1,760 m, just over an hour after setting off from Gavarnie, you can just make out the tip of the roof of the Refuge des Espuguettes, due east. You’ll reach the 1,782 m mark on the vast Pailla Plateau, near a National Park sign (if it’s visible beneath the snow).
(2) Ignore the fork to the right towards the Cabane de Pailla (the ascent towards the Swan Couloir between the two Astazou peaks), and climb the final 250 m up the north-eastern slope, finding the best route to the refuge – for example, via the main summer path, which is usually hidden, or, as shown here, by cutting across the large hairpin bend on the Haute Route Pyrénéenne (HRP) at 1,850 m. Reach the Refuge des Espuguettes at 2,027 m, 1h30–1h45 after setting off from Gavarnie. Part of the refuge remains open all year round.
(3) Continue onto the Plateau des Cardous, where it is rare to find any tracks left by skiers or snowshoers. Follow the Blue winter route on the IGN map roughly due east up to 2,250↓m.
(4) The route then turns north-north-east for about 300 m to reach what will be the junction for the return journey.
(5) Begin a series of hairpin bends below the Col du Pimené and reach the pass.
(6) Follow the ridge, veering slightly to its left at times (i.e. westwards), towards the only peak visible from here, the Petit Pimené.
(7) Reach the summit of the Petit Pimené (2,667 m), already a fine achievement.
Descend due north to the small pass (2,647 m), then resume the ascent of the ridge due north. The slope becomes really steep.
(8) Caution!: after a very gruelling 150 m climb where you’ll need to use your hands and navigate a few exposed sections, you’ll reach the Pimené . On the final metres of the ascent, make sure you stay on the ridge line – that’s where it’s safest!
(8) The descent follows the same route taken on the way up to the Petit Pimené (avoid the passage to the left, east of the Petit Pimené, which is very steep and exposed).
(7) Continue along the ridge almost as far as the Col du Pimené.
(6) Just before the Col du Pimené, head due south to reach the A/R junction.
(5) Then follow the same route as on the way out via the Plateau des Cardous, Les Espuguettes, the Bois de Pailla and the village of Gavarnie (S/E).