Granges d'Espoune and d'Artigue Bourg on the slopes of Cabaliros

A short, family-friendly and easy hike in summer but a challenging one in winter under the snow. You’re in the heart of the Hautes-Pyrénées, amidst the highest peaks, on the route to the Pic du Cabaliros and Lake Anapéou.
In both summer and winter, a complete change of scenery in these ancient pastoral areas.

Details

96786
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  • Snowshoeing
    Activity: Snowshoeing
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.50 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 4 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 483 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 485 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,499 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,092 m

Photos

Description of the walk

In summer, do not complete the circular route to avoid entering private farmland; after (3), return via the same route as on the way out.

Reach the start of the hike at the Igau farm car park from Cauterets, at an altitude of 1,098 m.

(S/E) Take the forest track that runs along the hillside towards the Pic du Cabaliros.

(1) Less than 300 m after the start of the path, turn sharply right at the pylon and mobile phone mast. The path is wide enough for 4x4 vehicles to drive up. It is signposted with signs indicating the Pic du Cabaliros and the Espoune, and small triangular MTB/FFC signs for the orange route No. 6.
After a first hairpin bend followed by a second, the very wide path continues its climb without any significant gradient through the wooded area of the Bois d’Aumède.
Shortly after a large clearing, the forest track accessible by 4x4 ends, with a small car park. The path narrows, with a steel post across the trail and a sign reading ‘pastoral area’.
The path continues through several narrow hairpin bends.

(2) At an altitude of around 1,300 m, you reach a gate (open in winter, usually closed in summer), opening directly onto a vast and beautiful meadow (l’Espoune or Espone). Go round the meadow, taking the path on the left which continues its ascent, even narrower, still following the signs for the Pic du Cabaliros.
The path climbs a few more tight hairpin bends (not shown on the map), which are easy to find (even under snow).
The path then continues to skirt the meadow, running above it to the south-west, and climbs without much difficulty through the forest.
The path veers slightly to the left. On a tree along the path on the right, which continues to run alongside the meadow, a small VTT/FFC sign with a crossed-out cross clearly marks the route not to take.
Another hairpin bend to the left, then another to the right, and we’re now on a straight stretch for several hundred metres, heading west-north-west, still overlooking the meadow (below the “E” and “s” of Espone on the map). Ignore the path branching off to the left towards Craboutas.
The path skirts the northern flank of the massif and reaches a first stream. Soon after, we cross the Bourg Débat stream without difficulty; this is a more substantial mountain torrent rushing down its ravine. Below on the right, you can see the Artigue Bourg barn and, above it, the Mousquère barn. On the opposite slope, due north, are the Serre du Couret barns, clearly framed by their respective fields (low walls, no doubt, which are clearly visible despite the snow).
On the other side of the stream, the path continues its ascent above the Artigue Bourg field.
The path runs along the foot of the Bois de la Peyre.

(3) At the entrance to the woods, this is where the hike leaves the path to head off-trail up a fairly steep section towards a smaller path visible below, bordered by a low stone wall and a row of trees. Follow this wall until the trees end.

(4) Climb over the wall and head towards the barns of Artigue Bourg (alt. 1,406 m), of which only one remains standing.

(5) Two options:
- you can reach the bridge by taking the path that heads south directly to the bridge.
- go round the meadow to the east, along the edge of the cliff where the slope drops down into the ravine of the Catarrabes stream. The track curves southwards. We then climb up the side of the Bourg Débat stream to reach the bridge that crosses it.

(6) On the opposite bank, head due east towards the Espoune barns.

(7) The path goes round the three barns to the north and then, across the meadow, joins the gate we passed on the way there.

(2) Return along the same route as on the way there to rejoin the (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,094 m - Igau Farm
  2. 1 : km 0.31 - alt. 1,122 m - Telecommunications pylon
  3. 2 : km 2.05 - alt. 1,377 m - Crossroads of the circular loop – Granges de L'Espone
  4. 3 : km 3.18 - alt. 1,499 m - Bois de la Peyre
  5. 4 : km 3.39 - alt. 1,450 m - Jump over the low wall and turn left towards the barn
  6. 5 : km 3.53 - alt. 1,403 m - Artigue Bourg barns
  7. 6 : km 3.92 - alt. 1,417 m - Small wooden bridge at Artigue Bourg
  8. 7 : km 4.23 - alt. 1,381 m - Granges de L'Espoune
  9. S/E : km 6.5 - alt. 1,094 m - Igau Farm

Notes

There are no drinking water points along the route, but there are dozens of mountain streams, which are probably perfectly safe to drink!
In the event of a storm, you can take shelter under the eaves of the barn roofs. But please note that these barns are private property and locked. Furthermore, herds graze here in summer. Keep your distance from the animals and dogs. Make sure you close any gates you pass through properly.
As for equipment, traditional mountain boots are essential.
In winter, despite the thick layer of snow, we were able to climb to an altitude of nearly 1,500 metres without difficulty. Snowshoes would, however, have been preferable. Please note: this is a challenging route at this time of year.
During the summer season, from July to October, do not cross private farmland and stay on the main path.

Worth a visit

Espoune Barns
These are so-called ‘fairground’ barns, known locally as ‘bordes’. They are situated between the village and the summer pastures and, together with the meadow on which they stand, form the ‘germ’. This intermediate area meets the needs of livestock in the early and late seasons, depending on the arrival and retreat of the snow.
The term ‘espoune’ means ‘sloping meadow’ or ‘on the edge of the ravine’, and both translations are apt here.
Source: i-trekkings

You can admire a whole series of peaks throughout the hike and a remarkable view of the summits overlooking Cauterets to the east at over 2,500 m.
The view of the Cauterets valley below is no less beautiful.
For those wishing to continue the hike higher up, you can push on towards the Col de Contente, or even the Pic du Cabaliros and Lac d’Anapéou.
In winter, if the snow cover is not too deep, check weather websites or the Cauterets guide office and follow avalanche warning instructions.

More info
Cauterets Tourist Office
Pyrenees National Park
Cauterets Thermal Baths

Reviews and comments

3.5 / 5
Based on 9 reviews

Reliability of the description
3.4 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.1 / 5
Route interest
4 / 5
La Brosse mancelle
La Brosse mancelle

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : Not used / Not applicable
Very busy route : No

We chose this walk because it wasn’t too long (we had four children aged between 3 and 9) and it was circular.
However, the descent in summer is very steep (though I imagine it’s great fun on snowshoes in winter) and challenging. What’s more, we were stopped by the owners, who think it’s really quite excessive to walk past their property. They’ve had people camping illegally and lighting fires in front of their straw barn, so needless to say, they were furious. Given the age of our children, we were allowed to go through anyway... I sincerely believe this route, which is very controversial, should be removed.

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MCTOUL
MCTOUL

Hello randodo,
What a shame about the end.
But I don’t understand what led you astray.
Take a look at the route on the ‘Satellite’ view of the map (I can’t post a screenshot here).
You can see all the waypoints at a glance. I can’t see what happened to you...
Best regards

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randodo
randodo

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 21, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely walk; the advantage of doing it at this time of year is that the trees haven’t yet put on their leaves, which gave us some magnificent views of the mountains. However, at level 3 we couldn’t find the path; we first followed a track that went uphill... first mistake, then we went back down to find the path (off-track) in question; we reached the two barns but again couldn’t work out where to go next; we eventually turned back but have no regrets about this magnificent hike

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GIL
GIL

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 18, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Great for getting some fresh air!
Too woody for my taste.

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MCTOUL
MCTOUL

Hello Matthieu H,
Repost from 2018:
Hello everyone, and especially to those who have done this hike!
I’ve done this hike in the middle of winter and also in June. I was lucky enough not to come across any of the barn owners...
With plenty of politeness and patience, you can sometimes make certain people understand that you share their love for the mountains. Otherwise, avoid conflict and leave their property.
In winter and summer alike, the streams were easily passable. But in the middle of spring, as is the case everywhere in the mid-mountain range, it can be much wetter!
In summer, do feel free to carry on to Cabaliros (see detailed hike on Visorando)!
Happy hiking!

The paths are still there. So are the barn owners. So if they’re around, from July to October, either give it a miss or ask first!
Have a lovely day
Marc

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Matthieu H
Matthieu H
• Edited:

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 13, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

This walking route no longer follows this route; it takes you across private land and off-track through the forest, whereas an official route uses suitable paths.
This route needs to be updated.

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ORCC
ORCC

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 21, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

It’s very pleasant, even on hot days, as most of the route is through the woods.
We had lovely weather.
At (2), the Espoune meadow, we had to turn left at the gate, where a sign read ‘MEADOW TO BE MOWED / NO ENTRY’. It was therefore impossible to go to Artigue Bourg.
Leaving the path to the right at (3), in the Bois de la Peyre, seemed very risky to us as there was no track. We carried on straight ahead for 500m to La Mousquère to have a bite to eat and then headed back down the same way.

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MCTOUL
MCTOUL

Thanks, François!

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Furylax
Furylax

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 20, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

My partner and I went on this hike in the autumn and it was pretty good! Admittedly, the fog did limit the views a bit, but it created a rather interesting, mystical atmosphere.
We just managed to get a bit lost when we reached the barns at Artigue Bourg (one of which had been demolished), we went down the clearing a bit, turned right and ended up at the barns on private land (after the stream), so we turned back to get back to the Artigue Bourg barns and tried to go round by heading down the slope that plunges into the Catarrabes stream ravine... as well as straying from the route, it was dangerous without ropes... our mistake: not reading the comments before setting off. We’ll know for next time!
Just before the barns and the ‘No Entry’ sign, you need to turn right and follow the pasture as it climbs, then turn left to rejoin the route from the outward journey.
Thanks for this route anyway!
François

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MCTOUL
MCTOUL

Thanks, buzuck35!

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buzuck35
buzuck35

Hi Marc
I didn’t meet anyone whilst going round the barns. It is a bit awkward to cross someone’s property, even briefly, but as you say, polite and respectful dialogue is the key to getting along.
I thought it would be interesting to push on to the peak, but my party—consisting of my teenage daughter and one of her friends—held me back. The slope looked promising, but that will have to wait for another time
Happy hiking (or rather, visorando).

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MCTOUL
MCTOUL
• Edited:

Hello everyone, and especially to those who have completed this hike!
I’ve done this hike in the middle of winter and also in June. I was lucky enough not to come across any of the barn owners...
With plenty of politeness and patience, you can sometimes make certain people understand that you share their love for the mountains. Otherwise, avoid conflict and leave their property.
In winter and summer alike, the streams were easily passable. But in the middle of spring, as is the case everywhere in the mid-mountain range, it can be much wetter!
In summer, don’t hesitate to carry on to Cabaliros (see detailed hike on Visorando)!
Happy hiking!

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buzuck35
buzuck35

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 10, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A lovely walk, the main attraction being the barns you pass by – provided you spot the path that heads down to the left before the woods, just after you’ve crossed the waterfall. The water flow is quite strong in early May
The Visorando app was very useful (along with my Garmin GPS for altitude data) in helping me find my way around the route.
Stay close to the barns and do not attempt to follow the stream, as the flow is strong and the gradient steep.
This hike is therefore best undertaken in early summer

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gorrichon
gorrichon

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 14, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Be careful on the way back along the unmarked path. It isn’t very visible and crosses private property. The owner pointed this out to me.

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bibi
bibi ★

Thank you for your feedback. I’ll let the author have their say; the hike was a while ago, so conditions may have changed since then.
Kind regards

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