The Pic de Gourguet and the Col de Tracens in winter

Head to the car park at the Tournaboup winter sports resort via Barèges (65). Arrive early (in both summer and winter) to secure a space!

(S/E) From the car park, cross the D918 and make your way through the resort buildings at the bottom of the slopes, taking care to walk alongside the slopes rather than on them. Early in the morning, this isn’t a problem. Later in the morning, it’s best to go round the ski school’s nursery and follow the stream. Head south-east, leaving the small pine copse on your left as you take the road (closed in winter) which is more or less covered in snow; cross the Pont de la Gaubie, pass the building on your right and reach the “Pont de la Gaubie” junction.

(1) Turn right towards the south and then generally follow the^GR®®10trail. On the other side of the stream, you’ll catch sight of the Cabanes de la Gaubie, a group of dry-stone buildings (see section ‘Sights : Pastoralism’ below).

The path is overlooked by the magnificent Soum de la Piquette (2,324 m), which is usually the only peak bathed in sunshine early in the morning. Turning round, you can also admire, on the other side of the car park, the ridge running from left to right from the Pic d’Ourdégon (2,436 m) to the Pic Bédéra (2,513 m), passing via the Soum de Moutarra, the Col des Pêcheurs and the Pic de Barbe.

Continue along the Ruisseau des Coubous until you reach the Pountou footbridge. Cross the footbridge (1,740 m). You will soon come to a signpost (1,741 m).

(2) Turn left, heading due east, towards the Aygues Cluses hut and refuge. To the right, high up in the distance, you can clearly see the pass that separates this long valley – which is fairly gentle in its lower reaches but very steep towards the end – from the plateau and the hollow in which Lac dets Coubous is nestled. You will return via this lake and valley at the end of the circular route. Head up the valley of the Ruisseau d’Aygues Cluses. The track runs very close to the stream, on the left bank.

Stay mainly on the left bank. At the 2041-metre mark, you’ll reach the reservoir and sluice gate, which are connected via a 2-kilometre underground penstock to Lac dets Coubous, which you’ll pass on the way back.

(3) Continue straight on close to the bed of the Ruisseau de Coueyla. Shortly afterwards, the path emerges from the woodland onto a very beautiful and vast, undulating plateau, leading via numerous routes to the Refuge d’Aygues-Cluses.

To the right in the distance, beyond the scattered mountain pines amidst the snow cover, if you look up you’ll be struck by the Pic and Crête de la Touatère (2,530 m), an imposing rocky mass, completely snow-covered in the depths of winter. You can’t see it, but at the end of this ridge lies the Col de Tracens, which you’ll take to enter the Vallée des Coubous (after the Pic de Gourguet).

(4) Most of the skiers’ tracks head south-east towards the Col de Barèges. Leave the^GR®®10and head south-east. Pass either close to or just past the Cabane d’Aygues-Cluses, the only accommodation available before the Refuge is built in 2023.

(5) Carry on and then pass the 2,295-metre and 2,368-metre marks (following the summer path to the Col de Barèges) and 2,368-metre mark (leaving the path). Continue the steep ascent that now lies ahead, passing close to a small lake. On the left is a small, unnamed peak at 2,537 m, between the Col de Barèges and the Pic de Gourguet. Head for the saddle to the left of the summit at around 2,570 m. Turn right onto the broad ridge that winds round the cirque below the Gourguet and reach the summit. From there, depending on weather conditions, there is a 360° view of the surrounding peaks and the lakes of the Néouvielle National Nature Reserve.

(6) The return journey follows the same route back to the Aygues-Cluses refuge.

(4) Head south-west as you leave the refuge, following the winter trail (marked blue on the IGN map) and any tracks left by skiers or snowshoers, heading towards the Madaméte Lakes. You will then zigzag along the thalweg of an invisible snow-covered stream flowing down from Lac d’Aygues-Cluses. The slope is quite steep. You’ll have to work your way round rocky outcrops and crooked pines to forge a path without being able to see your destination at all, for about 400 m.

On a flat stretch, head south-west towards Lac d’Aygues Cluses, which can be made out in a hollow. At around 2,200 m, the winter track leading to or from the Col de Tracens branches off to the right. It can be difficult to spot this junction without a GPS.

(7) Leave the track leading to the Col de Madaméte, which passes by the Lacs de Madamète, and turn right, climbing steeply. Reach the northern shore of Lac de Madamète (2,299 m).

(8) Cross the lake if ice and snow conditions permit. If in doubt, do not attempt it and instead go round it to the west. For the ascent, it is better to stay further south than the winter track (marked blue on the IGN map, which is more suited to the descent). There is a magnificent view of the Pic de Tracens (2,551 m) to the right ahead and, above all, of the Col de Tracens (2,463 m) a little further to the left. To the left, the ever-present Pic d’Estibère and the majestic Pic de Madaméte! Continue roughly due west, through a landscape that looks completely lunar (were it not for the snow...).

The ascent continues through a landscape of small valleys, with numerous steep sections and gentle slopes where you can catch your breath. You’ll reach the final few metres of ascent before the pass with a bit of effort. Climb the final section beneath the impressive peaks of the Pic de Tracens (2,551 m), heading for the beautiful gap.

(9) Reach the Col de Tracens (2,463 m), a magnificent vantage point overlooking the Vallon des Coubous and its countless lakes (especially in winter, when everything is blanketed in snow), as well as all the surrounding peaks. This is the final high point before descending to complete the circular route. Even in winter, this pass is a fairly busy thoroughfare at weekends, as it lies on a route well known to ski tourers. But outside weekends and school holidays, even in glorious weather, you may find yourself all alone in the world!

If there are tracks, follow them; otherwise, head slightly further south-west to begin the descent safely, rather than following the winter track (marked ‘Blue’ on the IGN map). Below the pass, join the summer path coming from the Pic de Madaméte, the^‘PR®®’ trail. In the distance, ahead and to the left, you can see the Cirque des Sept Lacs, including Lac des Coubous, bordered by the majestic ridges of La Mourèle and Lurtet. Then head west; the slope remains steep, sometimes requiring you to avoid descending straight down the slope.

(10) Shortly after the 2,325 m mark, on a flat section, you can either follow the Blue winter trail via Lac Nère to the west, or roughly follow the^“PR®®” trail to the north-west, or – between the two – head a little lower down after the small ridge (the route chosen here) into a new small snow-covered valley. Head towards Lac de Tracens (2,190 m) from the east.

(11) Go round it to the east. At the lake’s spillway, make your way north-east of Lac Blanc (it really is white!) and south of Lac de la Jonquère (or Dera Yunco). Watch out for snow bridges in this marshy area in summer; it is very hilly and the route is not obvious if there are no tracks!

(12) At Lac de la Jonquère, head due north to go round Lac dets Coubous to the east; the lake only comes into view quite late, as it lies in a deep hollow. When you spot it, you’ll also see its dam and, at its north-western end, a hut: the Cabane dets Coubous.

(13) Go round the lake to the east, crossing the dam. Reach the dam pass at 2,045 m.

(14) The final descent takes place down a very steep, north-facing slope, which is likely to be in the shade for much of the day (known as ‘le mur dets Coubous’). Begin the descent from the pass. On the right, pass right by the entrance to the underground tunnel and its SHEM gate (not shown on the map). Adjust your descent route according to snow conditions, possibly avoiding all or part of the hairpin bends on the summer path, which are completely hidden if there is a substantial depth of snow in the depths of winter. Cross the Ruisseau dets Coubous via a footbridge. Head back to the signpost you saw this morning at Pountou, then on to the footbridge over the Ruisseau d’Aygues Cluses (1,740 m).

(2) Return to the morning’s path and head back to the car park (S/E).

This description relates to a solo winter hike (Feb. 2021) undertaken in substantial, long-standing snow cover. Naturally, no paths or markings are visible! Most of the route will follow either the tracks of previous skiers or snowshoers, or a GPS track.

Only attempt this route if you are fully proficient in snowshoeing or ski touring.
This hike can also be undertaken in summer, following roughly the same route and staying – as far as possible – on the paths, which are then clearly visible throughout.

Estimated time
Allow between 10 and 12 hours. Be aware of the short days in winter: don’t hesitate to set off very early. In summer, allow around 10 hours’ walking.

Difficulty
I have classified this as Very Difficult in winter due to the length and elevation gain of the route, the steep sections between (5) and (6) and between (8) and (9), and the fact that the route is unmarked. It is a somewhat challenging route where you need to maintain a good sense of direction and keep your cool.
In summer, the difficulty rating is ‘Difficult’.
The IBP Index is 134 HKG (on foot), which corresponds to a ‘Very Difficult’ route for a hiker with ‘Average’ physical fitness.

Water sources
- in winter when there is snow, streams can be used as water sources without too much risk. However, allow for 1 litre of cold water per person and 1 litre of hot water in a thermos flask per person.
- In summer, there is a known spring at the Aygues-Cluses Refuge. Springs or runoff water are not guaranteed to be safe to drink, due to grazing livestock. Allow 2.5 litres per person.

Shelters
Only the Aygues-Cluses Refuge and Hut (4) (5) and the Coubous Hut (14) can serve as permanent shelters along the route.
Please note that in summer, these are very busy when people are staying overnight.

Equipment
- In winter when there is snow, you must also bring snowshoes, a pair of poles, gaiters, sun cream, lip balm, a GPS or the Visorando app on your smartphone, gloves, suitable warm clothing, a flask with a hot drink, a hat, and sunglasses suitable for the glare off the snow. Some people will also take an avalanche transceiver (DVA), a shovel and a probe.
- In summer, bring the standard equipment for a mid-mountain hike: hiking boots, suitable clothing, rainwear, water, food, a survival blanket, a knife, a compass, a map and a whistle.

Trail conditions
- In winter, when there is snow, you’ll see plenty of tracks left by ski tourers or snowshoers along virtually the entire route. However, depending on the day you choose and the weather, it’s possible to spend the whole day on your own.
- In summer, the route is very busy, across all its variants.
Whatever the season, don’t forget to let your friends and family know your exact route and keep them informed of any changes by text message or phone call.

Météo-France Mountain Bulletin and Avalanche Risk Assessment Bulletin (BRA or BERA)
Check the weather forecasts, particularly the Météo-France snow and avalanche bulletin for the Haute-Bigorre massif in the Hautes-Pyrénées. A call to the Haute-Montagne Gendarmerie unit may also put your mind at rest.

The^GR®® and^PR®® trail markings are the intellectual property of the French Hiking Federation.

Pastoralism
In the summer pastures of the high Béarn-Bigorre valleys, shepherds used to build dry-stone huts, known as ‘capane’, with a rectangular layout. Situated in the centre of a dry-stone enclosure where the sheep spent the night – known as ‘cueilas’, ‘cuyalas’ or ‘courtaous’ – these huts are now often in ruins. Source: Wikipedia.
The huts at La Gaubie are in fairly good condition and are still in use.

Place names
Source: ‘La mule et l’intello’ blog. Many thanks to him!
Translations with the help of Pierre Salles, an excellent commentator on France-Bleu Béarn.
Barèges: ßa’RƐdjə The little (?) valley. The (Latin) etymology is rather disputed, but seems nonetheless unavoidable. The root comes from the Latin ‘vallem’ and the suffix most likely comes from the Latin ‘-eticam’,…perhaps a diminutive (?)
‘Barège’ (actually ‘Varètge’) is the name of the valley. The commune bearing this name did not come into being until the 20th century: at the instigation of Urbain Cazaux, a member of the departmental council for the valley and president of the French Ski Federation, the entire eastern section of the land which had previously belonged to the commune of Betpouey was separated from it to create the new commune.
The place had already been given this name owing to the great renown of its thermal baths (cf. their imperial clientele): it was originally referred to as ‘the baths of (the valley of) Barège’, then (in Paris!) this was shortened to ‘Barèges’ to refer, in effect, solely to these thermal baths. This name has stuck.
Aygues-Cluses ’aigəs ’clusəs Most certainly ‘closed waters’, ‘hidden waters’ (Latin etymology). The torrent that flows down through the upper part of the valley then disappears into ground composed of piled-up granite boulders, so that the lower part of this valley has no stream. Medieval troubadours referred to ‘trobar clus’ as a genre of poetry whose deeper meaning could only be revealed to those who had been given the keys to understand it, whilst remaining hidden from others. Reconstructed spelling: aigas clusas.
Ets Coubous e(t)s ku’bus. Most likely: the sinkholes and resurgences. Etymology probably pre-Latin. We are very close to Aygues-Cluses and in the same type of terrain. Only this time, it is in a place where water disappears in some spots and resurfaces in others. Reconstructed spelling: Eths cobós.
Madaméte mada’metə Probably ‘little Madame’. No doubt some long-forgotten anecdote was behind this name. Restored spelling: Madameta.
Tournaboup: other places in the valley bear this name. The only possibility: a compound word made up of ‘torna’ (‘it returns’, ‘it turns’) and ‘vo(l)p’, the fox. Literally, therefore: ‘Turning fox’. But again, why? This (Latin) etymology is, after all, rather uncertain, and distortions may have occurred over the centuries. Reconstructed spelling: Tornavop.
Néouvielle Massif: in Gascon: ‘nèu’ (snow) and ‘vielha’ (old, ancient).

Variants
1- Just before the waypoint (5), you can bypass the section leading to the Cabane or the Refuge d’Aygues Cluses by cutting the bend completely and starting the ascent up the Aygues Cluses stream from 2,295 metres.
2- At the WP (7), you can choose to follow the ‘normal’ route, especially if you don’t fancy breaking trail through the pristine white wilderness. You should then head south-west to climb between the Madaméte Lakes and turn west, leaving them at 2,300 m before the slope steepens.
3- At WP (10), you can cross the Plateau des Lacs de Coubous via a number of routes, particularly if you wish to walk around all the lakes or just some of them (notably Lac Nère, which can be crossed depending on the quality of the ice, as well as Lac Blanc).