Lake Arrious in winter

After Laruns, take the D934 leading to the Col du Portalet and, shortly after Lac de Fabrèges, park at the Caillou de Soques (1,400 m), against which a hut is built.

(S/E) Head north-east along the HRP (Haute Route Pyrénéenne), which climbs quite steeply through the forest.

(1) On emerging from the forest, cross the Ruisseau d’Arrious via a footbridge (1,560 m) and follow the very wide HRP, which runs alongside the stream, to reach the Cabane d’Arrious

(2) The hut is closed and reserved for shepherds. Carry on and, shortly afterwards, pass the Quèbe d’Arrious (1,885 m) with its hut. The latter is built against a huge boulder, which provides shelter for the livestock, whilst the hut itself is a shelter reserved for shepherds.

(3) Stay on the main path, with its tight hairpin bends, until you reach a fork (2,068 m).

(4) Carry on straight ahead and eventually reach the Col d’Arrious (2,252 m).

(5) Turn immediately right (north-east) and head for the shores of Lac d’Arrious (2,283 m), right by its outlet into the Ruisseau d’Arrious. Straight ahead on the left, you can admire this strange, isolated mountain overlooking the lake: the Pic du Lac d’Arrious (2,495 m). Further in the distance, the two Arriel peaks stand out against the snow-covered scree slope.
Continue towards the right-hand shore of the lake along the ridge to get a better view of the Arrémoulit Valley and its lakes. Depending on snow conditions, you may or may not be able to reach the start of the Passage d’Orteig.

(6) ⚠️ Do not take any risks – the area is very exposed! The return journey follows the same route as the outward journey in the opposite direction to reach the Caillou de Socques (S/E).

⚠️ This route description is based on a hike undertaken by two people in winter (Dec. 2023) with average snow cover that was not recent.
From (1) onwards, no path or signposting is visible! Most of the route will follow the description accompanied by a GPS track, or even follow in the tracks of previous skiers or snowshoers.
Only attempt this route if you are fully proficient in snowshoeing or ski touring, and in the use of crampons and an ice axe. This is not a route suitable for beginners.
This hike can be undertaken in summer, following roughly the same route and staying – as far as possible – on the tracks and paths, which are clearly visible throughout.

Car park at the start
The starting point is at the car park for the Cabane du Caillou de Soques (S/E). The departmental road (D934) is in very good condition and, as it links with Spain via the Col du Pourtalet, is clear in both summer and winter.
On the left-hand side of the road as you drive up, there is space to park half a dozen vehicles in winter.

Estimated time
I completed this route on snowshoes in 4 hours, including breaks, setting off from the car park at 1.15 pm. This is a ‘normal’ time. Allow between 4 and 5 hours.

Difficulty
- I’ve rated it as Difficult due to the route’s elevation gain, the steep sections and the fact that it isn’t signposted in winter. It’s a fairly challenging route, but there’s no risk of getting lost.
- In summer, the rating is Moderate.
The IBP Index (an automated system for assessing the difficulty of a route) is 86 HKG, which corresponds to a ‘Difficult’ route for a walker of ‘Average’ fitness.

Water sources
- In summer, there are no sources of drinking water. Springs, lakes, rivers or runoff are not guaranteed to be safe to drink due to grazing livestock. Allow 1.5 litres per person.
- In winter when there is snow, the Ruisseau d’Arrious can be used as a water source without too much risk. However, allow 0.5 litres of cold water per person and 0.5 litres of hot water in a thermos flask per person.

Shelters
At La Quèbe d’Arrious (1,885 m), there is a shepherd’s hut (or even a shepherdess’s hut). The hut is built against a huge boulder, which provides potential shelter.

Equipment
- In summer, bring the standard equipment for a mid-mountain hike: hiking boots, suitable clothing, rainwear, water, food, a survival blanket, a knife, a compass, a map and a whistle.
- In winter when there is snow, you must also bring snowshoes or touring skis, a pair of poles, gaiters, sun cream, lip balm, a GPS or the Visorando app on your smartphone, gloves, suitable warm clothing, a flask with a hot drink, a hat, and sunglasses suitable for the glare off the snow. Some people will also take an avalanche transceiver (DVA), a shovel and a probe. On this route, crampons and an ice axe are essential.

Traffic
- In summer, the route is very busy along its entire length.
- In winter, when there is snow, you can sometimes see tracks left by ski tourers or snowshoers along almost the entire route. However, depending on the day you choose and the weather, it is possible to spend the whole day on your own.
Whatever the season, don’t forget to let your friends and family know your exact route and inform them of any changes by text or phone.

‘Snowshoes + poles or crampons + poles or crampons + ice axe’
If you’re setting off early in the morning in the middle of winter, it will probably be more comfortable to use crampons to climb as high as possible if the snow is very crusty. Walking in crampons is almost identical to walking in boots, with the added advantage of being able to safely navigate small flat sections or gentle icy slopes, and above all narrow, overhanging sections of hard or icy snow.
When putting on crampons on flat ground or gentle slopes, you keep your poles. As soon as the gradient exceeds 15–20 per cent, snowshoes and poles are stowed away and securely fastened to your rucksack, and you use the ice axe. Using an ice axe requires a good level of skill, particularly in the event of a fall or when descending.

Météo-France Mountain Bulletin and Avalanche Risk Assessment Bulletin (BRA or BERA)
Check the weather forecasts, particularly the Météo-France snow and avalanche bulletin for the Ossau-Aspe massif in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques. Calling the High-Mountain Gendarmerie unit or the High-Mountain CRS may also put your mind at rest.

Avalanche-prone areas
This route is not known to be prone to avalanches.
The slopes face north and south and, depending on the BERA risk assessment checked before setting off and the depth of snow present, you should keep a watch out for any cracks that might precede an avalanche or snow slide. If there are several of you, ensure you maintain safe distances.
Be on the lookout for any cornices on the ridges.

If, on your route or on the map you are using, you notice any errors in signposting or place names, or …, you can become a contributor and report them:
- marking errors, safety issues, conflicts of use, environmental concerns, etc.: click here
- mapping errors, place names, etc.: click here

Sights to see during the hike
At the Col d’Arrious, there is a virtually 180° view of the lakes below, as well as of the Pic du Lac d’Arrious (2,483 m), the Petit Pic d’Arriel (2,683 m), the Pic d’Arriel (2,824 m) and the Palas (2,974 m) to the south. To the north, notably the Lurien (2,826 m). Due west, the Pic du Midi d’Ossau (2,884 m), a giant and the pride of Béarn.

Places to visit nearby
- the village of Les Eaux-Chaudes and its spa facilities
- the Eaux-Chaudes Caves, with their icy underground stream! See hiking routes here and here.
- the Col du Pourtalet, the gateway to Spain and the Formigal ski resort.