Access: from the north-west exit of Martigny, take the Route de Salvan, continue towards Les Granges then on to the Vallon de Van via a very narrow section (junctions at the mountain huts), ending at Van d’en Haut. Park just before the campsite along the road.
(It is possible to walk along the right-hand side of the campsite to a clearing, saving a few dozen metres of elevation gain)
(S/E) At the campsite, take the signposted path on the right, which climbs gently at first, then winds its way up the various ridges of the glacial barrier to be crossed: the ascent is steep but not difficult; wooden steps have been fitted on the steepest sections, and the main ridge is climbed via metal staircases fitted with handrails. Towards the end, the path veers left to join the gravel access road to the dam.
(1) Follow this road up to the right as far as the foot of the dam. Continue along it to the right, climbing up to the end of the dam.
(2) Pass by the foot of the Auberge de Salanfe and continue along the level road which skirts the lake to the side opposite the dam, just after crossing a water supply channel.
(3) Turn right onto a good path which crosses a threshold and then passes through a former lake that has been filled in at Lanvouisset. It begins to climb gently alongside torrents, then more steeply up a slope that is still partly grassy, until you reach a junction where a path to the right leads to the Refuge des Dents du Midi.
(4) Turn left to begin a long traverse along the mountainside, sometimes ascending, sometimes level, until you reach the foot of gullies and rocky escarpments.
The path climbs amongst these escarpments, making use of small gullies and ledges; whilst there are no technical difficulties, there are a few sections equipped with cables or chains to provide assistance where the terrain is slightly exposed. This section leads onto a rocky ridge (signpost).
(5) Climb up to the right along the easier, moon-like slopes (dark scree) to the pass, passing in front of a shelter that has been badly damaged by the elements.
(6) From the pass, look north towards the ascent to the Haute Cime, the highest point of the massif. Descend back to the previous point.
(5) There, instead of turning left into the steep section of the ascent, look out for a track descending to the right through the scree. This is an old path, clearly marked but no longer maintained. It descends to the right, cutting across a few gullies to reach a fine scree cone, which it descends via regular switchbacks.
At the bottom, the path veers off to the right again, through a section where gully erosion has badly damaged it, to reach the foot of a snowfield beneath the Tour Sallière.
(7) Cross over to the opposite side of the moraine, where the path is clearly marked. It makes a wide hairpin bend and continues across the slope to the right until it leaves the gullied moraine for a grassier area.
Do not descend towards Plan Château, situated lower down to the left, but continue along a level path heading east. It disappears into the grass, replaced by cow tracks that veer to the right to cross a grassy ridge overlooking the head of Lac de Salanfe.
(8) Pass this ridge and descend as the terrain dictates towards the upper part of the lake via tracks that gradually become a path and, in the final metres, a road leading down to the road skirting the lake.
(9) Take this stony road to the right; it leads to the exit of a tunnel dug for water. It allows you to bypass a gully and reach the alluvial plain extending from the lake.
Cross this plain towards the south-east (marked by red and white posts), heading for the path opposite which leads back up to the edge of the lake’s right bank.
(Watch out for herds whilst crossing!)
(10) Take this path, which climbs about fifty metres (elevation gain) to the left and then continues along the slope. It joins the Col d’Emaney path and then the Col de la Golette path before descending to the southern end of the dam.
(11) Normally, a narrow path leads down to the foot of the dam, but it is barely visible. The most obvious route is to cross the dam along its crest to the other end.
(2) Descend along the gravel road to the junction you passed on the way up.
(1) From there, you can either head back down via the path you took on the way up, using the steps and ladders, or continue along the road, which winds through areas sometimes prone to rockfalls. It passes the Source de Moïse and quickly loses altitude as it enters the forest further down.
Several paths on the left allow you to rejoin the ascent path at the foot of the pass if you wish.
The road reaches the car park in the clearing, then continues on level ground before descending to the left towards the campsite and crossing the Salanfe to reach the starting point (S/E).