Rochers de Chalves via the south ridge

A fun hike bordering on mountaineering on a very little-used route leading to the Rocher de Chalves via its southern ridge. You will discover the Ouillon, a monolith clearly visible at the foot of the ridge, before climbing an easy rock face (never exceeding 3c) along the ridge.

Caution: there is a sheer drop below the ridge, so you must proceed slowly and test each hold carefully, as some boulders are ready to tumble down.

Details

757420
Creation:
Last update:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 9.69 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 5 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Extremely difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,108 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,101 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,844 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 788 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Warning: as the hike takes place on an unmarked route after Ouillon (5), the photos help to identify the key crossing points.

(S/E) From the car park, follow the tarmac road south towards Namière, which ends at a barrier after the first hairpin bend. Go through the barrier and continue to the second hairpin bend.

(1) Less than 100 metres after this, turn left onto a sunken path. This path, lined with trees, climbs straight up the slope heading east and quickly crosses a carriage road. Take this road to the left to climb north-east towards Les Combes.

(2) At Les Combes, the route crosses another forest road coming from the left. Opposite this road, on the right, there is a fairly steep logging track. Follow it for less than 200 metres, first south and then east.

(3) At the first intersection with another logging road, take the one on the right that heads south into the forest. After a short flat section, the logging road turns into a narrow but well-marked path. After a few switchbacks, this path is marked with blue dots. This will take you to the base of the Pas du Sappey.

(4) The pass is marked with old blue and salmon-coloured markings, and a tree on its right bears the number 22 (see photos). This passage is on wet rock, but a quick link on a bolt at the top of the pass allows less confident climbers to secure themselves. The path leads to the ridge of the Rocher de l'Église, marked by a cairn. Turn left to follow the ridge north-northeast, still following the blue dots.

(5) You will reach the Ouillon, a distinctive isolated pillar with a hole in its top (see photos). Stay there or, if you have gone to admire the Ouillon, return to the ridge to reach the limestone scree below the western flank of the southern ridge of the Rocher de Chalves. Cross these scree slopes for 50 metres until you come to rocks interspersed with grass and easy to climb (see photos for reference). If you decide to rope up, do so here and put your walking sticks in your rucksack.
Climb these easy rocks (2) to reach the ridge and swing over to the east face. From here, the route is obvious and consists of following the ridge to a cairn marking the end of the difficulties. Along the ridge, stay mainly on the east face and close to the ridge, except to bypass a few large boulders or shrubs that sometimes obstruct the path.

At the cairn, stow your harness and rope, but keep your poles in your bag as you will sometimes need to use your hands. Continue north along the ridge, passing the intermediate peaks to reach the main summit of Rocher de Chalves (1,844m).

(6) At the summit, a path heads north under the west face and quickly turns west after a hairpin bend. This path is marked in yellow. It descends over a grassy shoulder to join the Bannettes path.

(7) Turn left south-southwest onto the Bannettes trail marked in yellow. Stay on this trail until you reach the car park, following the signs for Les Combes then Namières; it turns into a fairly wide forest path with large hairpin bends.

(8) It is also possible to follow the paths that cut across these hairpin bends along the edges of forest plots (light green continuous lines on IGN maps). This option is shown on the route.

(9) Once at Les Combes, continue to the right on a tarmac path alongside a stream to return to the car park (S/E)

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 788 m - Parking
  2. 1 : km 0.33 - alt. 808 m - Chemin creux de Namières
  3. 2 : km 1.48 - alt. 926 m - Les Combes (IGN elevation 928m)
  4. 3 : km 1.62 - alt. 975 m - Intersection of forest roads
  5. 4 : km 2.04 - alt. 1,145 m - Base of the Pas du Sappey
  6. 5 : km 3.87 - alt. 1,489 m - L'Ouillon
  7. 6 : km 5.19 - alt. 1,844 m - Summit of Rocher de Chalves
  8. 7 : km 5.71 - alt. 1,692 m - Intersection with the Combes-Bannettes trail
  9. 8 : km 8.2 - alt. 1,102 m - Start of the forest boundary trail
  10. 9 : km 8.8 - alt. 923 m - Les Combes
  11. S/E : km 9.69 - alt. 788 m - Parking

Notes

This route is for hikers who are capable of climbing grade 3 without belaying. The schedule takes into account the slow progress on the ridge.

Pascal Sombardier isthe inspiration behind this circular, as well as many others. See the excellent Vercors secret or his other works, which are unfortunately often out of print, such as Chartreuse inédite, which I have never been able to get hold of.

It is essential to set off when the weather has been dry for at least 48 hours, as the Pas du Sappey (4) is treacherous if too wet.

Refer to the photos for the least frequented part of the route:

Equipment:

  • a helmet is recommended on the ridge (I saw chamois there)
  • if you take poles with you, they must be telescopic so as not to get in the way during the climbing section.
  • the route is not very busy, so long trousers are good protection in the forest and on the rocks
  • if you are in a group, a rope and protective equipment for double progression (two straps and carabiners) can provide reassurance.

Water:

  • there are no water sources above Les Combes, so bring what you need.

Dogs:

  • dogs are allowed in this part of the Chartreuse, but unless you can carry them during the climbing sections, it is not recommended to take them on this route.

Worth a visit

Chamois frequent the east face of the Rocher de Chalves in the morning, hence the importance of wearing a helmet.

From the summit, there is a splendid view of the entire northern Vercors as well as the Dévoluy: the Grand Obiou, Grand Ferrand and Rama are clearly visible, as are the Pic and Plateau de Bure. The view to the west (Voiron) is also very clear, with the Pic de Moirans and Roche Brune standing guard over the access to Grenoble.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 14 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
Joseph H
Joseph H

I agree with the other comments: the section on the stop is quite technical, even if it can be done without equipment, but it costs nothing to be safe. I did it on the way down, which I don't recommend; it must be easier on the way up. Be sure to follow the GPS track in the forest, as the path is not marked and is sometimes covered with leaves.

The view from the top of the rock and during the traverse of the ridge more than justifies the difficulty of the hike. I recommend taking all necessary precautions!

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Charlie 38
Charlie 38

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 09, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb hike, the ridge is magnificent, I loved it!

That said, it's not a hike for everyone.
The climbing sections are fine but involve a long exposure to the void.

I recommend it!

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_Hannibal_
_Hannibal_

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 30, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you very much for this route. A beautiful hike with an aerial passage on the ridge (without ropes, in my case). There are a few explanations missing on how to find the ridge after Ouillon, but if you have the GPS track and a good phone, it's fine.
Don't forget to turn around on the ridge as you climb, the view to the south is superb.

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Mimizen38
Mimizen38

Thanks for the information. I'll abandon my plan to connect Rocher de Chalves from La Pinéa via the ridge. It's a lot of elevation gain and kilometres that aren't very interesting, so I might as well take the easier route.

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JCParavy
JCParavy

La Pinéa is not on this ridge but on the other side of the Tenaison valley and the Col de la Charmette. The sequence of the two is therefore not natural and would require descending into the valley towards Pomarey to climb back up the opposite side.
To return to Chalais, there are three options: the Cheminée du Lorzier (easy to descend, although easier to climb), the Pas de l'Ane (officially prohibited, but fine in dry weather... at your own risk) or the Cheminée de Mont St Martin.
Happy hiking!

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Mimizen38
Mimizen38

Hello,

Is it possible to easily reach this ridge from La Pinéa?
I would like to link these two peaks via a more challenging route rather than taking the standard path, but I get the impression that this would involve a significant detour.

I am also considering another route: is the Lorzier chimney passable in the descent direction to reach Chalais?

Thanks in advance

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bouvierjr
bouvierjr ★
AlbanDcl
AlbanDcl

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 06, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A little-used route, the "pink salmon" markings on the southern ridge are starting to fade, but the route is fairly clear.

On the other hand, it's a superb hike, thank you so much for the discovery!
The scenery is magnificent and even though there is still a little snow at the summit, it does not hinder the climb.

I highly recommend it, but only to experienced hikers who are not afraid of heights. The southern ridge (the part with the climbing) was quite exposed and some of the rocks are ready to fall, but the descent is very easy.

this was my second hike in Chartreuse. If you have any technical routes like this one, I'm interested (Néron?).

Anyway, thank you very much for the discovery!

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JCParavy
JCParavy

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 28, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I chose this hike thinking I would climb a secondary peak in Chartreuse, but it turned out to be a physically demanding and challenging traverse, as clearly indicated.
The climb to Pas du Sappey is now well marked by a beautiful path and less "confusing" than sometimes described. However, the last ramp is rather tricky with its earthy section: a small handrail rope would be appreciated.
L'Ouillon is a magnificent site before the serious stuff begins.
There, I made a mistake by climbing a path above L'Ouillon, before realising that it led to one of the ledges described by Pascal Sombardier. Not sure of the exit, I preferred to descend a little to cross over to the south ridge via a slightly exposed climb. Once on the ridge, I preferred to descend a little into one of the couloirs to the right of the ridge line: it's not necessarily easier, but it's less exposed and suited me better.
The higher you climb, the gentler the slope becomes, which is reassuring, but just when you think you've arrived, you still only reach a secondary summit: you have to walk along the ridge for quite a while to reach the altitude of 1844m.
The descent to Les Bannettes is not difficult in summer, as it is familiar terrain...
Thank you for this guide.
Jicépé.

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fredrichard7
fredrichard7

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 16, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful route, completed roped up with my wife and daughter. The rope was not a luxury despite the low technical difficulty. At the first cairn encountered on the ridge, you have to switch to the east side and stay on the ridge line. We made the mistake of staying below the ridge on the west side, where the terrain is more difficult (dirt, unstable rocks, etc.) and less safe.
The difficulties are fairly short on the ridge, but the route is very pleasant.
Thank you for the route!

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bouvierjr
bouvierjr ★

That's right, in case of hard or frozen snow, crampons are essential and an ice axe is very useful. It is possible to descend 20 metres south of the normal path and shorten the steepest part, but in any case there is still a steep slope to cross. Fortunately, trees can help prevent a fall (this has never happened).

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Nec
Nec

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 22, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A little difficult to find the start of the climb coming out of the scree, where the guidebook says you have to traverse to reach the ridge. After that, it's a good climb on solid rock, with exposure at every stage. But where I got scared was on the short descent from the summit towards the Bannettes trail: the snow was very hard, and even with crampons, I really broke a sweat (it's very steep right at the start).

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nysou
nysou

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 08, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

When we reached the rocky ridge, we were amazed by the breathtaking view. On the way down, we had a little trouble following the marked trail exactly, but it didn't cause us to stray too far. All in all, it was a thoroughly positive experience...

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traven60
traven60

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 15, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A beautiful walk reserved for experienced walkers, or at least those accompanied by someone who is experienced. It's safer that way. The ridge can be easily negotiated without ropes if you are used to using your hands and have a good sense of direction.

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bouvierjr
bouvierjr ★

Thank you for your comment!
What can I do to improve the description and reliability of the route on the map (in order to get a very good rating)?

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