Traversée des Émigrés and Vire des Immortelles

(Please note) The Immortels, Corniche des Grand Ducs and Fight-Club sectors are currently "closed to all visitors" until 15 August 2024. See the message posted on 20 May 2024.

This hike starting from La Ciotat will take you above and below the Soubeyrannes Cliffs between the Grotte des Émigrés and Sainte-Frétouse. The outward route follows the Yellow ridge trail, offering breathtaking views of the Calanques and the Golfe d'Amour. The return route is more technical, alternating between walking and easy climbing, and follows the Black trail below the ridges on the sea side, then a system of ledges halfway up the cliff that will take you back to your starting point.

Details

919587
Creation:
Last update:
Last review:
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.76 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 5 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Extremely difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 791 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 798 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 394 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 88 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Park at the top of Chemin du Sémaphore near the ruins of Sainte-Frétouse, close to the Parc des Calanques sign. It is best to park along the walls of the properties, where the road is widest.

(S/E) Follow the yellow trail along the tarmac road leading up to Sainte-Croix. After a few dozen metres, the trail leaves the road and follows a wide path above the Carrière de la Vigie quarry. Follow this path, which winds its way up through old terraced fields, to the Bec de l'Aigle semaphore.

(1) Enjoy the view of the Golfe d'Amour and La Ciotat Bay (orientation table on the left) and continue along the road (north-northwest) for about 250 metres.
Leave the road and follow the yellow trail, which takes the wide path down to the left (west) towards Cassis. Pass over the rocky ridge of the Sémaphore climbing site. Leave the path leading to the Route des Crêtes on your right. Continue along the yellow trail, climbing to the left (north-west). At a bend, ignore the path opposite leading to the edge of the cliff at the Faille de la Goulette, located above the Pas de La Chèvre, which you will cross on the way back. Continue uphill to the right, following the yellow trail until you reach a wide path joining the Route des Crêtes on the right.

(2) Take the path on the left (north-west) to the summit of Grande Tête (394m - geodesic marker).
Continue along the path to the Selle des Ténibres, marking the end of the summit plateau. Follow the yellow trail, which takes a steep, very rugged path on the right, descending like a balcony above the Route des Crêtes. You will reach the only viewpoint protected by a guardrail on the Falaises Soubeyrannes.
Continue along the yellow trail, descending steeply sloping rock slabs to the Col des Chèvres (or Col Ouest). You will reach a bend in the road. Climb towards a large mushroom-shaped rock. Go around it on the right and follow the yellow trail to Col du Faucon (328 m), where the road makes another hairpin bend (Parking des Émigrés).

The outward journey is now complete. Leave the yellow trail and follow the black trail back, which leads to the left, on the sea side, to the edge of the embankment bordering the road.
Take the steep, winding descent that goes around the right side of some very jagged rocks, one of which resembles an elephant's head. After about a hundred metres, the slope levels out and the path continues (south-east) along the cliff. After about a hundred metres, you will pass below a small cave known as the Grotte des Émigrés.

(3) Follow the black markings, which are more or less visible, along the path running alongside the cliff, which becomes increasingly vertical. Shortly after the Grotte du Grand Draïoun, located above and difficult to see from the path, after about 500 metres you will reach the edge of a large break where a large rock is marked with a black cross. This is the Pas de La Chèvre, which is the first difficult part of the route.

(4) Walk along the edge of the break for about fifteen metres, descending towards the sea to the edge of the cliff. The passage follows a series of narrow, sandy and very exposed ledges, which lead to the rest of the trail. Follow the stainless steel rings that mark the route, allowing you to secure yourself. Once you have crossed the 200-metre-long passage, continue (south-east) on the trail, which is narrower in places and whose black markings are partially faded.

Follow the black markings across the wide slopes of heath halfway up the cliff. After about 500m of winding terrain, you will reach the Cirque du 14 Juillet, characterised by a beautiful vertical wall of compact limestone, located below the Sémaphore climbing site seen on the way there.
The path gradually approaches the cliff until it runs alongside it. Leave the black trail, which climbs up through the rocks, to reach the bottom of one of the abseil lines connecting to the upper part of the black trail called "Passage à Philémon".

(5) Follow the path along the wall. After about thirty metres, pass at the foot of the Philémon chimney (sealed via ferrata-type bars), known as the first access route to the bottom of the cliff.
Continue along the cliff (south-east) on the path through the vegetation, passing under puddingstone overhangs, to reach the end of the path after about 200 metres. This is the start of a wide sandy ledge, where there is a rusty plate and bolt. This is where the Vire des Immortelles begins, the crossing of which is the main difficulty of the route.

(6) Climb up the sandy ledge for about 50 metres before it ends at a sealed ring. Climb 3 metres vertically to a ring equipped with a link (3b) to reach a narrow ledge, which you follow to the right across to some shrubs. The ledge gradually widens and becomes spacious.
Follow the ledge, interrupted by a vertical drop, equipped with a sealed ring.

Caution: Do not climb this ledge. It provides access to a more difficult and very challenging upper variant, joining the Yellow route from the Semaphore.

The route continues below. Descend a few metres to reach a fixed rope securing the rest of the route. Go around the ledge via a very narrow and exposed passage, but without any technical difficulty. Reach a wider balcony area and follow it. After crossing a temporary waterfall, climb a small ledge (3a) to reach the rest of the route, which follows a wide, sandy ledge downhill. Follow it to its end at a fixed ring. Climb the short puddingstone ledge on the left that closes off the ledge. Continue diagonally to the left (plate) to reach a sealed ring (3b) below a puddingstone overhang. Follow a short, rugged traverse (east) to reach a wide heath slope. Follow the path along the cliff for about ten metres until you reach a clear rocky area (a plate and a sealed ring) at the edge of a temporary waterfall.

Note: The original route continues above, climbing the puddingstone wall (plate visible) to a small cave, then diagonally to the right to a ridge bordering a dry canyon (4c). Climbing this ridge on foot, you can reach the top of the Black route and from there the Yellow route of the Sémaphore.

Descend a few metres to reach a path that you follow to the left (east), skirting the large puddingstone walls.
Reach a 3-4m high puddingstone ledge equipped with a short handrail leading to an abseil ring. Abseil down this ledge or climb down diagonally towards the edge of the cliff (3b). You will reach a large sandy terrace in the middle of a dry canyon (palm tree). Continue opposite, towards a steeply sloping ledge running along the cliff (east). Climb up this ledge, then the puddingstone slabs at the top, diagonally to reach a path which you follow to Villa Teychéné.

(7) Note: Do not take the track leading from the villa towards Sainte-Croix as it crosses private property closed off by a barrier.
Take the blue-marked trail starting east of the villa's terrace.
Follow this path to Villa Speany (ruins) and reach it to the north-east via a good path, the Chemin du Sémaphore, near the place where you started the hike. From there, return to the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 141 m - Chemin du Sémaphore
  2. 1 : km 1.53 - alt. 310 m - Sémaphore du Bec de l'Aigle
  3. 2 : km 2.32 - alt. 326 m - Path on the left
  4. 3 : km 3.58 - alt. 277 m - Grotte des Émigrés
  5. 4 : km 4.34 - alt. 197 m - Pas de La Chèvre
  6. 5 : km 5.28 - alt. 141 m - Philémon Chimney
  7. 6 : km 5.52 - alt. 195 m - Vire des Immortelles
  8. 7 : km 6.1 - alt. 138 m - Villa Teychéné
  9. S/E : km 6.76 - alt. 141 m - Chemin du Sémaphore

Notes

This hike combines walking and easy climbing. The duration will depend on the number of participants and their technical level, which will determine the mode of progression (belaying by length, progression on a tight rope, installation of handrails). Allow 5 to 6 hours, taking into account the inevitable photo stops and picnic.

(The route requires mastery of belaying techniques in an alpine environment. Even though the difficulty does not exceed III, it is preferable to have a higher technical level in order to have a margin of safety.)

The exposed sections are equipped with numerous sealed stainless steel bolts, allowing these passages to be secured using appropriate belay techniques.

Equipment:
Wearing a helmet is recommended. A 30 to 40m rope, 5 to 6 pairs of carabiners and a few slings are sufficient for belaying by pulling short lengths or progressing on a tight rope.

History:
The original route of the Vire des Immortelles was opened by M. Boulery and D. Quet in June 1976.
The first known traverse of the Pas de la Chèvre was made by M. Castellino, R. Cornillat and A. Léone in September 1943.

Worth a visit

Grotte des Émigrés:
Historically, the name comes from a wealthy family from La Ciotat who decided to flee the town during the revolutionary period of 1789. Our frightened Ciotadens went to hide in this cave, which was well concealed by the wild nature of the area, and remained there for many weeks in very precarious conditions.
No revolutionary forces came to dislodge them from there. They punished themselves with this voluntary exile, and when the population found out, they named them "les Émigrés" (the emigrants). Since then, this nickname has remained with this beautiful bivouac, whose layout has varied over time. A few years ago, it was still furnished. Today, due to the needs of the Calanques National Park, it has been completely emptied.

Grand Draïoun Cave
The Grand-Draïoun cave, which stretches over 2 km in length, is the largest terrestrial cavity in the Bouches-du-Rhône.

Villa Teychéné
This vandalised house bears the name of a doctor from Marseille who used it as his second home.

Villa Speany
This ruined house is named after the Swiss sculptor Walter Speany (1892-1952), who lived there for 20 years.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 7 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.1 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.1 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
Philippe73
Philippe73
• Edited:

Please note: the Immortels, Corniche des Grand Ducs and Fight-Club areas are currently "closed to the public" until 15 August 2024.
I found this information on a temporary sign in the park in front of Villa Teychéné; there is nothing on the app.

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jpoux
jpoux

You walk on the ledge, you stumble in the wrong place, you fall, you die, but you walk on the pavement, you stumble at the wrong moment, you get hit by a car, you die too...
except that you're more used to walking on the pavement and you've forgotten to be afraid.
But you won't forget the ledge of the immortals :-)
So yes, take every precaution and stop if you don't feel comfortable.
In the same vein, to prepare yourself, there's also the first part (north, less difficult) and the second part (south, more gassy) of the Marcel Estruch ledge in Sainte Baume, which are a little less difficult.

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jpoux
jpoux
• Edited:

Hello,
This isn't a route for climbing. But it's not a hike either, at least not a family hike.
Personally, it was me and my wife, both roped together in the difficult passages, wearing harnesses. And finding the route is sometimes difficult (in a dead end, tempted to climb to the left and start real climbing after 15 metres, when the guidebook says to descend to the right, which isn't really obvious). And above all, passages where stumbling or slipping probably means death. But when you stick to the guidebook, you sometimes put your hands down and hold on tight (III+ maybe, I don't know enough about it and I can't remember exactly), but you can't really call it climbing. After that, it's long when you're not sure of the route and you're playing it safe (be prepared to retrace your steps, even in the last part: we were still worried just before the palm tree). More difficult than the Oeil de Verre or the Couloir du Candelon. But yes, it's magnificent... Find a group that does it (the AN de la Ciotat or others) and go back there if it's your level, or do half of it there and back, it's already beautiful and the difficulties are behind you, as far as I can remember.

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Yodada
Yodada

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 09, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Fantastic hike, thank you very much for the description!
There were four of us, with a 60-metre rope and a dozen quickdraws along the entire length.
No technical difficulties, very exposed but with points all along the way, so safety was top notch.
However, it's true that you sometimes hesitate and the guidebook isn't always clear/detailed enough:

  • At the end of (3) and start of (4) (goat step), always follow the black markings down to the right (do not go straight ahead - black cross).
  • End (5) start of the immortelle ledge:

The "wide sandy ledge" climbs up, and at the 3 m climb there is an old rope ring (not mentioned in the guidebook). Then you must not climb the vertical rock face in front of you, but go around it to the right below. Please note: contrary to the guidebook, I did not see a fixed rope. As a result, we hesitated quite a bit before committing, especially since it is difficult to believe that "it works" without going to see for yourself.

  • Middle (6) After "climbing the short puddingstone ledge closing off the ledge", it should be noted that "continuing diagonally to the left" is now done along a handrail. However, there is no longer a handrail for the 3-4 m descent of puddingstone that leads to the palm tree. The descent is easy.

That's it for the latest updates. Once again, many thanks for this magnificent route 😃

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jpoux
jpoux

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 13, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello and thank you for this wonderful trip. Wonderful in both senses of the word, because I'm still impressed. Magnificent. Gassy. Very exposed. I think we were at the limit of our abilities, and we got a bit scared at times.
Two adults, harnesses, ropes, quickdraws and helmets (a little climbing years ago, low level) and glad we took everything! Weather: beautiful sunny spells, very windy, then deteriorating, cold and drizzle at the villa: if it had rained more, safety would have been compromised.
In terms of the GPS track, the devices struggle to locate themselves on the cliff (even with good equipment) and the track to download is a bit poor in terms of points (the two are linked).
The first part in black is not too difficult but can be dangerous at times.
On the other hand, the last part is difficult to navigate: follow the map carefully. We made two mistakes because we thought we were following the map but had let go of it a little:
1- "Caution: Do not climb this ledge." Well, we climbed it... To realise this: the pitons are very close together, too close to be honest, which indicates the difficulty. Perhaps this should be noted on the guidebook? Because we expected the difficulty to increase due to the guidebook ("Here begins the Vire des Immortelles, the crossing of which is the main difficulty of the route." We thought it had really become difficult
2-"Reach a 3-4m high puddingstone ledge equipped with a short handrail leading to a rappel ring." (end of (6) just before (7)). At least one sentence is missing, a waypoint? We thought we had made a mistake, so we went back down, climbed back up, went back down again and even explored below (secured): Some additional information: climb the handrail, continue and cross to the other side towards the villa, descend the slope and the asphodels to the left, the bottom of the canyon, the palm tree to reach the abseil ring (double anchor chain) but the descent is very easy.
3- The adrenaline rush from the other two mistakes made us take the blue trail when we arrived at the villa: "Note: Do not take the track leading from the villa", so we took the beautiful blue mark when we arrived on the left... (We realised our mistake 1/3 of the way up and completely underestimated the rest , so we climbed back up to the semaphore... So maybe make a note to cross the path from Villa Techiné...
Matos: the more quickdraws we have, the less we have to wait. With several people on one rope, via ferrata lanyards could make progress smoother, but we would need the opinion of someone more professional than me to see if there are any drawbacks that I am not aware of.
Thanks again for this hike.

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perail12
perail12

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 19, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb, challenging hike. We did it on a beautiful sunny day; it was a treat!
It wasn't very easy to find the starting point, but we managed it in the end. The trail along the ridges offers stunning views.
As soon as you reach the path below the cliffs, the atmosphere changes. It becomes calmer and more airy. What is surprising is the geological variety: white limestone, superb ochres, very rugged, caves, grottos... then brown puddingstone.
Very airy but well-equipped ledges, atmosphere above the sea... A few doubts about the route, but in the end no major difficulties with orientation. In the conglomerate, small but impressive and easy climbs. Verticality of the place; you constantly wonder where you're going to be able to get through.
It's best not to be afraid of gas.
A magnificent day.

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perail12
perail12

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 19, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Superb route, exposed sections requiring equipment, rope, quickdraws, harness, helmet. It is best to be sure-footed, comfortable with some climbing sections and have a good sense of direction.

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MAURY jean-louis
MAURY jean-louis

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 08, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

The estimated duration of 3 hours is greatly underestimated. Allow between 5 and 6 hours. The exposed sections are equipped with numerous sealed stainless steel bolts and ropes at the end of the route. Simply follow the bolts and ropes to avoid getting lost. At the end, do not abseil down the ring (as there is a small overhang below which is difficult), instead choose to climb down towards the cave, which is easy (bolts for securing yourself).

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Alexis Droy
Alexis Droy

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 03, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A magnificent hike undertaken in early January in beautiful weather. The only concern: in the middle of the Pas de la Chèvre, we remained at the same level when we should have descended, but we quickly realised this when we saw that there were no more pitons (except for one dubious one, probably marking the start of a route). So we turned back, but it didn't take long. The rest was fine, an unforgettable hike...

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Alain C16.
Alain C16.

Hello,
In my opinion, a 10-metre rope is too short, even for two people.
Plan for a minimum rope length of 20 metres so that you always have at least one point between you.
Enjoy your discovery!
Alain

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Hélène 2 3
Hélène 2 3

Hello, what length of rope is best for this hike? For two people, is a 10-metre dynamic rope the most suitable?
Thank you.

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gferro
gferro

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 14, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

An exceptional hike thanks to its incredible setting and atmosphere, but one that requires good control and safety management for the "roped" sections, as well as a minimum level of climbing ability: a few sections rated 3 or 4. Whether using a "tight rope" or "traditional belay" technique, it is essential to have a good grasp of the basics of climbing.
That said, embark on this fabulous adventure and you will come back delighted!
Happy hiking, everyone!

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Alain C16.
Alain C16.

Hello,
The hike is described as a round trip starting from Sainte Frétouse. The return begins at the start of the black trail. The "Pas de La Chèvre", WP4, narrow, very exposed, dangerous (to use your expression) if you don't use a rope and the equipment in place, but without technical difficulty, is the only difficulty until WP6. After that, it becomes more technical and more exposed, with a few small III-grade climbing sections to negotiate. You are on a rock face, so the risk of falling rocks can never be ruled out.
Best regards

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Bernard E.
Bernard E.

Hello

I went to see this route yesterday. For me, the second part of the route is difficult (and even dangerous in places). I reached the foot of the Phiémon chimney (sealed rungs) and walked about fifty metres before stopping. It started to rain, so I turned back. I know my limits. However, the description of this hike at the very beginning states: the return is more technical, alternating between walking and easy climbing. Hence my question about the helmet and rope.

Best regards

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Alain C16.
Alain C16.

Hello,

Please understand that it is not possible to answer such a question on a public forum. This would engage the author's responsibility. Furthermore, responding favourably would contradict the recommendations given.
All I can tell you is that the level of difficulty, technicality and exposure are significantly higher than on the Marcel Estruch trail. There are no chains, and the only protection in place (currently) is a piece of steel whose strength and durability cannot be guaranteed.

Enjoy your hike!

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