The Coastal Path between La Garde and the Bec de l'Aigle Semaphore

For road access, it is best to park along Chemin du Sémaphore near the La Garde stop on the Ciotabus line 30. Avoid parking in the Résidence de Notre-Dame de la Garde (private property) or in the Traverse de Notre-Dame de la Garde.

(S/E) Follow the signs for Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Garde. Walk up the path and the shaded steps alongside the residence. You will come out onto the chapel forecourt, where you can access the south terrace. Go around the chapel to the west to reach the north path on the left, which leads to Saint-Pilon. Follow this path as it winds its way up the puddingstone dome via a series of steps, some of which are built, to the summit (a beautiful viewpoint offering a stunning view of the 3 Secs and the Rocher du Capucin, also known as the Tête de Chien, above the Calanque de Figuerolle).

Alternative: Instead of going around the terrace, look for a large hole on the western ridge of Saint Pilon. Go to this hole (marked in blue) and climb through it (mind your head). Emerge on the south face and climb up a natural staircase from right to left to the summit. This alternative route is easy but impressive and very exposed, with a short section of grade II mountain climbing.

(1) Descend from the summit via the northern path. Pass north of the wall bordering the forecourt and take the path on the left that descends into the woods below (blue markings). Follow this narrow, winding and steep path, which can be slippery in wet weather. You will come out onto a path (green markings) that leads to the residence on the right.

Turn left (west) and follow the green markings along the path. After about 200 metres, at a clearing, leave this path, which continues to the Maison de Michel Simon. Take the path on the left (west), following the green markings, and continue to an intersection.

(2) Follow the path on the left (south) which gradually climbs towards the eastern foothills of Anse du Cannier. Just before reaching the summit (+86m), you will come to the Table de Brancusi, which offers a beautiful view of Anse du Cannier.

(3) Descend via the path you took on the way up until you reach the intersection.

(2) Continue straight ahead (leaving the path you took on the way up on your right) up a short climb (north) to an intersection and take the path on the left (west) marked with green and blue markings.

Caution: Numerous paths cross the route throughout this area, which can be misleading. Do not hesitate to retrace your steps if in doubt.

Follow this narrow path winding down to the bottom of the Michel Simon Canyon (green markings) near the 18-metre-high Saint-Jean de Capistan waterfall on your right (north).

(4) See practical information.
At the bottom of the descent, look for a path on the left carved into the puddingstone by former fishermen from La Ciotat. Leave the trail and follow this path, which descends across a puddingstone ledge (a few carved steps) to a flat area. Follow the path towards the sea (south) to the edge of the cliff.

Caution: Do not take the numerous paths that descend to the bottom of the valley.

The path leads to the top of a wide crevice equipped with a ladder allowing you to reach the sea at the bottom of Anse du Cannier. Retrace your steps to rejoin the path you took earlier.

(4) At the intersection, continue to the left (north-west) along the balcony. A short descent and an exposed traverse, secured by a handrail, lead to the bottom of a very shady valley. Climb out of the valley following the path that winds through the undergrowth before crossing a short puddingstone wall to an intersection.

Caution: The short descent and traverse are equipped with sealed bolts. A rope handrail, in varying states of repair, is usually present, but this cannot be guaranteed given the incivility of some people and the relative popularity of the route.

Take the path on the left towards the sea (south) to reach the top of the promontory overlooking Ferrand Cove to the east, which offers a breathtaking view of the grey trail of the 45-metre-high Pirates' Waterfall. A gap below allows you to reach a system of ledges used by former fishermen to reach the sea via a short descent.

Retrace your steps to rejoin the trail (green markings) at the intersection. Continue straight ahead (north) for about 50 metres until you reach another intersection. Turn left and follow the green trail (west) towards Domaine de Sainte Frétouse. Follow the path down to the bottom of a gully before climbing up a puddingstone outcrop on a ridge to an intersection.

Leave the path on your left that leads south to the promontory (+86m) overlooking the Trou de Jeannette.
Continue on the green trail towards the ruins of Villa Speany for about 100m. Before climbing up to the villa (north), leave the main trail and take the narrow trail on the left (blue markings) descending to the bottom of the Saint-Frétouse valley.

Caution: Follow the blue markers carefully, as there are many paths crossing the route in this area, which can be misleading. If in doubt, do not hesitate to retrace your steps.

Climb up the puddingstone wall following the blue dots. The path continues along the top of the Falaise des Grands Ducs cliff to Villa Teychéné (+135m) with its blocked openings.

(5) Enjoy the panoramic view from the terraces of this former property. Join the access track to the villa on the right, or take the path (west) to reach the wide embankment below. Leave the track, cross the embankment on the left and take the ascending path (west) to reach the Corniche des Grands Ducs. A short climb takes you to a horizontal balcony 100 metres away, where an old stone bench awaits you. Continue for a few metres to a small promontory of puddingstone offering an exceptional view of the Grand Cirque des Cascades, the Vires des Immortelles and the start of the Grande Face (only visible from the sea), bordered by the ridge connecting the Vigie du Sémaphore to the Pierres Tombées.

Retrace your steps, cross the balcony, and when the path climbs up to the left, leave the path you took on the way up and take the steep path (north) leading to the top of the ridge (+153m) towards the top of the Carrière de la Vigie. Continue along this path and after a few dozen metres you will come to a path (blue markings).

Continue in the same direction. The path climbs gently above the private properties of Saint-Frétouse to an old rusty skip (blue markings) where the path continues to the left. Follow the path to a small three-way junction near the end of the limestone ridge leading to the Sémaphore.

Take the path on the left towards the base of the cliff (blue markings) and follow this path along the cliff to a small dry cave with some unusual calcite formations.

Alternative route: From the cave, continue along the path (blue markings) climbing along the bottom of the cliff to a large sloping puddingstone slope. Cross it horizontally, following the blue markings (this passage may look daunting but is easy to cross). Continue along the cliff to a limestone terrace at the top of a rocky spur where you join the black markings of the Sentier Philémon trail. Climb up the rocky outcrop by ascending from right to left (III mountain). Climb up the rocky ridge, following the black markings as best you can, until you reach an intersection where you join the blue markings of the original route.

Retrace your steps to the three-way junction. Take the path (blue markings) on the left, climbing up the right side of the cliff to the edge of the Carrière de la Vigie (signpost: Vigie - La Ciotat). Follow the path that continues uphill to the left towards the Semaphore (blue "danger cliff" triangles) until you reach the intersection with the black trail. Continue along the path, following the double markings, until you reach the intersection with the yellow trail, which you follow to the Semaphore, which you go around to the east.

(6) Reach the viewpoint on the left above the road. Enjoy the panorama covering the Marseille-Toulon arc. To the west, you will see the Calanques Massif and the islands, to the east the Cap de l'Aigle that you have just climbed, and the Golfe d'Amour as far as Cap Sicié.

Reach the road below and follow it north for about 150 metres to 30 metres from a barrier closing off a path that climbs slightly to the right. On the right, look for the barely visible start of the Chemin de la Vigie (blue markings) descending like a balcony into Le Cirque de la Vigie. Follow this path, which gradually turns north/east-east, descending along a beautiful dry stone wall.

(7) 30 metres after a ruin on the left, at the bottom of a shallow valley forming a flat area, take a faint path on the right descending towards the Carrière de la Vigie. Follow this narrow path as best you can, following the edge of the terraces and leading to the ruins below on the right, from where you will join the Tracé Jaune du Sémaphore.

Follow this path on the left (south-east) towards La Ciotat until you reach the crossroads at the bottom of the tarmac descent. Continue along the road (Chemin du Sémaphore) for about 120 metres until you reach the bend below. Take the path downhill to the right (south), above a valley, and follow it to the ruins of Villa Speany.

(8) Walk along the villa to the old threshing floor, which forms a large terrace to the south. Climb a few steps to reach the east gable of the villa, where you will find a narrow path. Follow this slightly descending path along the edge of the terraces to the bottom of the valley you crossed earlier. Reach the road via a short winding climb. Follow the road towards La Ciotat (east) to the Résidence Notre-Dame de la Garde (S/E)

at (4) At this location (43.16953, 5.58889) there is a National Park sign indicating:
"To continue in this area, you must have equipment suitable for vertical environments and master the techniques for progressing in such terrain. It is also strongly recommended that you be accompanied by a qualified professional."

Variants:
The description offers a few more difficult options or variations involving short climbing passages. People taking these variations must be aware of the risks they are taking given their level of experience (see "Difficulties" below).

Time:
The duration indicated on the information sheet can only be achieved by people who are comfortable in "alpine terrain". The actual duration will depend on the number of participants and their technical level, particularly if you choose to take the variations using belaying techniques on exposed sections.

Difficulties:
This hike combines walking and possibly some climbing. It has a significant elevation gain for the distance. Some passages are steep. In places, the route follows narrow paths lined with thorny bushes.

This route should be avoided in wet weather, as some sections can become very slippery.

The route is partially marked, but the markings are old and partially faded in places. The GPS track is approximate on the sections near the cliffs. Numerous paths cross the route described; avoid using them so that the vegetation can regenerate and reclaim its rights. If in doubt, follow the GPS track, which is reliable in open areas. Much of the route is not shown on IGN maps. You will therefore often need to switch to "route finding" mode, particularly in the terraces on the way back.

This route can be done without ropes for people who are comfortable in this type of terrain and have level III mountain climbing skills, noting that several passages are very exposed and a fall in these areas could be fatal (fall of several tens of metres).

The exit via the Black route is equipped with several fixed pitons to secure this passage using appropriate belaying techniques.

Equipment:
A small 25m rope and 3 or 4 carabiners if you wish to secure yourself in the final climbing passage of the Black route exit variant.

Be sure to take at least 1 litre of water per person.

Additional information:
The route follows much of the future "Sentier du Littoral" coastal path, which is partially marked in green and has been developed over many years by several outdoor associations in La Ciotat.

This part of the Soubeyran Massif is rich in canyons that can be explored by canyoning enthusiasts. This route allows you to approach some of them. These routes are described in the guidebook "Cascades et Canyons littoraux à La Ciotat" (Coastal Waterfalls and Canyons in La Ciotat) by Catherine and Carlos Fait (Éditions des Falaises), from which I have taken the names of the waterfalls and certain places mentioned in this description.

(1) Notre-Dame de la Garde:
This chapel was built in 1613 by the Brotherhood of the Blue Penitents

(1) Le Saint-Pilon (116m):
The former "Rocca Rodona" became "la Gardi" at the end of the 16th century because a lookout post was built there.

Maison Michel Simon:
The artist bought this country house in 1946 and stayed there regularly until 1975.
In 1990, the town of La Ciotat bought the estate and transformed it into a writing residence for cinema and audiovisual arts.

(3) Brancusi's table:
Built at the request of Michel Simon for his friend, the sculptor Constantin Brancusi, who both loved to admire the Anse du Cannier from here.

Ferrand Cove:
This cove owes its name to the presence of a large puddingstone pebble, set above the sea, engraved with the name of a former fisherman, "Ferrand 1897", and the two intertwined sardines of the coat of arms of La Ciotat

(5) Villa Teychéné
This vandalised house bears the name of a doctor from Marseille who used it as his second home.

(8) Villa Speany
This ruined house bears the name of the Swiss sculptor Walter Speany (1892-1952), who lived there for 20 years.