Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise starting from Modane

This fabulous 8-stage route (+ 2 variants) is challenging and requires excellent physical fitness, as some passes reach an altitude of nearly 3,000m.

The first two stages deviate from the usual route, making this route even more appealing. The mountain landscapes, glaciers, pastures and flora are among the most beautiful in the Alps. Wildlife is particularly abundant, as in the Mercantour. Every day we saw marmots, ibex and chamois.

Details

1780959
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 106.24 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 8 days 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 7,291 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 7,290 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,923 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,711 m

Photos

Stages of the route

This route needs several days, find the details below:

  1. S
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
  7. 7
  8. 8
  9. E

Notes

We completed the route from 11 August to 19 August 2019, when there was still plenty of snow on the ground.
This route starts at the Refuge de l'Orgére.
We were able to top up our water supplies throughout the entire route.
You’ll need to pack warm clothing even in August. The lowest temperature we experienced was -5°C at night. It was 0°C on two mornings when we set off at 6.30 am. Otherwise, daytime temperatures averaged 20–25°C. However, even during the day, there were significant fluctuations.
Hiking boots are a must – you’re in the mountains!

We completed this route as a bivouac trip, eating our meals at mountain huts. I would still advise you to book your pitch, meals and snacks if required.
Bivouacking is strictly regulated along the route and prohibited in some places, notably at the Peclet Polset Refuge and the Col de la Vanoise Refuge.

You’ll need to be in good physical shape to complete this route.

Below is a list of what we packed in each of our rucksacks for our first attempt; it might be helpful:

Hiking rucksack (a 70-litre one for me and a 50-litre one for my wife) / Rucksack cover x1
Sleeping bag x1 / Mattress (self-inflating or foam) x1
Hiking boots x1 / Hiking socks x2 / Sandals or flip-flops x1
Underwear x2
Relaxation shorts x1 / Relaxation T-shirts x1
Hiking trousers x1 / Long-sleeved hiking T-shirt(s) x1 and short-sleeved T-shirts x2
3-in-1 waterproof jacket x1 / Pouch x1
Woolly hat x1 / Gloves or mittens x1 / Cap or hat x1
Head torch x1 / Emergency blanket x2 / Water bottles x1 / Water pouches x1 / Knife + spoon x1 / Mobile phone x1 / Phone charger x1 / Trekking poles x1 / Pole tips x1 / Sunglasses
Personal toiletries: Toothbrush x1 / Towel x1 / Wipes (feminine hygiene)
Shared equipment:

Hiking tent x1
Adhesive tape x1 / Thread and needle x1 / Safety pins x4 / Lighter x1 / Bin bags or plastic bags x2 / Spare batteries x1 / IGN map x1 / TOPO Guide / Map cover x1 / Compass x1 / First aid kit x1 / Shoelaces x2 / Portable power bank x3 / Pen x2 / Notebook or paper x1 / Camera x1 / Washing powder x1 /
Mountaineering rope x1 / Carabiners x2
Toothpaste X1 / Toilet paper X2 / Soap (biodegradable) X1 / Sun cream / Lip balm X1 / Comb X1 / Nail clippers X1 / Insect repellent X1
Cash / Cheque book X1 / Credit card X1

Worth a visit

For us, this route is the most beautiful we have ever done. One of the last places where you can get up close to the remaining glaciers of the Alps.

Must-sees: the Gebroulaz Glacier, the lakes and the Arpont Glacier, Lac des Vaches, the cirques of Grand Marchet and its pass (very technical descent), Grande Casse, Col de la Masse.

Mountain hut ratings:
1/ Excellent : top-rated huts , plus a mountain spirit and friendly atmosphere (welcome, meals, camping spots): L’Orgére, Les Macs Merlets, La Valette and La Fournache;
2/ Average : huts where the welcome was average but the meals were very good: Peclet Polset, Col de la Vanoise;
3/ Disappointing : a refuge where the welcome was very disappointing, with no kindness shown. An unsuitable camping spot on sloping ground. The Refuge de l'Arpont.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

Reviews and comments

5 / 5
Based on 2 reviews

Reliability of the description
5 / 5
Ease of following the route
5 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
le dd
le dd

Good evening,
We’re delighted that you enjoyed this route as much as we did when we walked it. I’d also recommend doing the GR 54 in 13 days (Viso route) if you haven’t already done so.
Kind regards

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turquetj
turquetj

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 25, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Today we’re finishing this superb route, which we’ve followed to the letter, at a mountain refuge. We’ve had a brilliant time; the scenery is magical and there are animals all along the way. We tackled the two alternative routes on the afternoons of days 2 and 6 without any trouble. We recommend a short detour to Lac de la Patinoire after Lac aux Vaches – it’s well worth it. We went for a swim in the lakes at Merlet and La Valette – pure bliss in this heat!!! We were well prepared physically, which allowed us to make the most of every day despite the distance and the elevation gain. Don’t change a thing about this fabulous route!

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brierea01
brierea01

Hello,
I’d like to do this route but in the opposite direction to the one indicated. Is it more difficult, or is the technical difficulty the same?
Kind regards
Ax

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DorianB
DorianB

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 21, 2021
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,

We finally managed to do the hike, and it was brilliant! We loved the less-frequented section of the Col du Souffre and Lac Merlet. The flora and fauna are incredible throughout the whole hike!!

As for the snow, there was quite a bit of snow (especially on the Col de Chavière) but nothing too difficult if you followed the cairns and had walking poles.

However, we had snow on 14 July! This forced us to avoid a tricky section in the Cirques du Grand Marchet, according to the refuge warden, and to head back down to the valley floor.

Meanwhile, here are two quick suggestions for alternative routes:

During the rest day at Lac de l’Arpont from the refuge, it is possible to hike to Col de Chasseforêt and its lake (off-trail). You can ask the refuge warden for directions, who will tell you how to get there. The view from the top is lovely and the area is wild. Please note that access is not straightforward as it is off-trail, and please respect the natural environment – there are many ibex up there.

Another option is to head up to the Col de la Masse, from where you can easily climb up to the Petit Râteau; the view is splendid. The path is easy to follow by keeping an eye on the numerous cairns.

Happy hiking to all,
Dorian

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DorianB
DorianB

Hello,

Thank you for this superb route; we were looking to extend our tour of the Vanoise glaciers, so the suggested route is perfect!

Did the snowfields cause you any particular difficulties? Do you think crossing them with poles is sufficient?

Incidentally, we’ve found an alternative to your challenging section between the Merlets Lakes Hut and the Valette Hut by splitting it into two days:
Stage 1: Merlets Lakes Hut to Roc de la Pêche Hut
Stage 2: the following day, from the Roc de la Pêche refuge to the Valette refuge

Thank you,
Dorian

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