Walk along the old bed of the Rhine: from the Huningue Canal to the Old Rhine

Two centuries ago, the Rhine flowed in braids. From 1842, with the construction of dykes by Tulla, then around 1930 with the construction of the Grand Canal, the river was brought back into a single channel and the Rhine ecosystem was profoundly altered.
Today, there is a stark contrast between nature, which is becoming re-vegetated and adapting to the drying up of the river with diverse and unique flora and fauna, and the intense industrial activity surrounding navigation and hydroelectric power.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.15 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 77 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 78 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 247 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 227 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Walk in the old bed of the Rhine.

Start from the car park on Rue de Rosenau near the EDF roundabout decorated with a collection of turbine propellers.

(S/E) Walk past the restaurant, take the cycle path, then turn left onto the tarmac access ramp that leads up to the hydroelectric plant.
Leave the descent to the left bank of the Grand Canal on your left. Go straight ahead and continue to the plant.

(1) Cross the canal in front of the six turbines and continue to the right towards the large locks. Leave the "Rhin et Découvertes" shops on your right and cross the bridge in front of the imposing gates closing the locks to reach a small car park on Île du Rhin.

(2) Turn right towards the Kembs dam (or Märkt dam), go through the barrier at the end of the locks, leave the path that descends in steps immediately to the left marked with a green ring (emergency path, see practical information) and continue for 700 m along the tarmac path alongside the canal.

(3) Shortly after the end of the strip of land that separates the canal into two lanes (one towards the factory and the other towards the locks), don't miss the path on the left that descends towards the Old Rhine and the Barre d'Istein. Cross the carriage road and enter the Petite Camargue Alsacienne estate via a picturesque little path that leads to the left bank of the Old Rhine.

(4) Turn right for a round trip upstream towards the Barre d'Istein.

(5) The Barre d'Istein is a rock formation that creates rapids, a wild place where many birds (and swimmers in summer on the German bank) enjoy themselves. After enjoying the place, retrace your steps. Possible alternative route, see practical information.

(4) Follow the wild banks of the Old Rhine downstream to the junction with the emergency path 700 m further on.
In dry weather and when the water is low, this crossroads allows you to take a steep descent (caution) to the right towards a pebble island often frequented by Alsatians in summer. To the left, there is a shortcut for a quick return to the locks.

(6) Continue straight ahead for about 2 km to a place called "Le Bouchon", where the Rhine and the Grand Canal are very close together. Just before reaching this point, a small fishermen's path leads down to the bank and the islets, which are sometimes accessible (if the water level is low and with caution).

(7) This beautiful spot is ideal for a break or for going down to the banks of the Rhine (small steps) to observe the German shore, the islets and the surrounding vegetation. Then return to the Grand Canal and take the wide carriageway that leads back up to the locks and the hydroelectric plant. Cross the bridge over the spillways.

(1) At the end of the bridge, before the bend, stairs descend to the right towards technical facilities and the fish pass. You will come to a small car park. Turn right to walk along the fish pass, then follow the riverbank for about 600 metres.

(8) Just after a stream, a branch of the Augraben that flows into the canal, leave the bank to the left via a wide path. Cross the road and turn left towards the EDF roundabout. Go around the roundabout on the right to climb onto the bridge overlooking a pretty, now disused lock, with a view of the Huningue Canal and its towpath, which has been converted into a cycle path.

(9) Retrace your steps to return to the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 237 m - Parking Rue de Rosenau
  2. 1 : km 0.61 - alt. 247 m - Bridge over the spillways - Usine hydroélectrique de Kembs
  3. 2 : km 1.41 - alt. 246 m - On the right on Île du Rhin - Grand canal d'Alsace
  4. 3 : km 2.51 - alt. 246 m - On the left - Le Vieux Rhin
  5. 4 : km 2.82 - alt. 235 m - Right towards the Istein bar - Rhin (fleuve)
  6. 5 : km 3.5 - alt. 238 m - Return downstream - Petite Camargue Alsacienne
  7. 6 : km 4.9 - alt. 235 m - Crossroads - Pebble beach
  8. 7 : km 7.1 - alt. 237 m - Viewpoint - Le Vieux Rhin
  9. 8 : km 9.51 - alt. 236 m - On the left after the - Augraben (rivière)
  10. 9 : km 9.95 - alt. 237 m - Bridge over the Kembs-Loechlé lock - Canal de Huningue
  11. S/E : km 10.15 - alt. 237 m - Parking Rue de Rosenau

Notes

(5) Alternative: continue upstream along the banks of the Old Rhine. After about 800 metres, you will pass close to the mouth of the "Petit Rhin", hidden behind a curtain of vegetation except in winter when a short detour allows you to see it.
Return to the path to reach a large renaturation area. 200 m further on, a small bridge offers a beautiful view of the entire area.

If you want to visit the new power station and dam, it will take you two hours or more if you continue to the German bank, with a return trip enhanced by a visit to two observatories.
For more details, see the walk around the Petit Rhin.

(6) Shortcut: You can shorten the route to 7.2 km by taking the path on the left via the stairs, which passes through a beautiful dry meadow and then, after a wooden footbridge, climbs up to the locks.

Refreshments:
Refreshments are available at the Chalet de l'Espace Rhin et Découverte next to the Grandes Écluses.
Picnics are possible at the point (7).

Precautions:
If there has been heavy rain in the days leading up to your walk, the path to Barre d'Istein may be flooded. In this case, take the first path on the left (marked Anneau Vert) shortly after the barrier, at the end of the locks, which leads to the point (6).

There are numerous signs on Île du Rhin, some of which are educational, others remind walkers that this is a protected natural environment that must be respected, and others still indicate that the water level can vary rapidly depending on the use of hydroelectric facilities.

Worth a visit

The Heritage Centre: Wednesdays from 2pm to 6pm and the first Sunday of the month from 10am to 12pm. It provides information on the history of the town since Gallo-Roman times, which is often linked to that of the Rhine.
There is a wealth of information on the construction of the Grand Canal d'Alsace and the development of hydroelectric power, as well as on the flora and fauna of the Petite Camargue Alsacienne.
A visit to the museum will give you a better understanding of the walks along the old bed of the Rhine.

Visit the Kembs Power Station (1932).
The Kembshydraulic development is the first of 10 developments built on the Rhine as part of a comprehensive industrial and environmental development project.

In summer, there are many bathers on the German side downstream from the Istein bar, as well as nudists, which is common practice in Germany.
On the less sunny French side, there is a large crowd on the vast pebble "beach" near the point (6) and near (7).

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 14 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.3 / 5
FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Thank you for your feedback.

Kind regards

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ptk
ptk

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 26, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely, peaceful walk with beautiful views (Ipstein rapids, pebble beach, pretty shaded sections). Interesting information boards along the route.
The Chalet doesn't just serve fast food, but also good meals.
To our surprise, we were impressed by the large locks and were transfixed as the barges passed through.
The topographical "navigation" of the hike through the app is excellent.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Thank you for your comment.
The German side is sunnier and very busy whenever there is sunshine. Access to the beaches is easier, and there is a large area reserved for nudists. It is also very noisy due to its proximity to the motorway.
The French side is quieter, shadier and generally less crowded, except for a few pebble beaches in very good weather and by the local population.
It is up to each individual to decide which suits them best.

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Dany68300
Dany68300

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 29, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

It is the side in Germany, which is very busy, that seems more interesting, especially for swimming in hot weather.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Hello Mickanside

Thank you for your very interesting comment.
Kind regards

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Mickanside
Mickanside
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 18, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you, FJ, for this very enjoyable walk on these summer days!
However, it is best to do this walk when the temperature is below 30°C. We did it between 10:30 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. (a 3½-hour walk). The temperature rose to 29°C, which was just about acceptable.
The sun beats down hard between (1) and (2), so remember to protect yourself.
Between (2) and (3), we took the path parallel (below) to the one indicated in the description: much less crowded and more shaded!
Surprisingly, unlike the German side, which was very busy, there was absolutely no one on the pebble island (6)! This made for a very pleasant and refreshing break! (Be careful though, as swimming is prohibited and the strong currents are dangerous).
The route was very quiet, except between (1) and (3), despite the fact that it was a beautiful summer's day, and a Saturday at that! We didn't meet a single person between (5) and (2) (on the way back).

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Thank you for your comment.
Yes, that is exactly the aim of this unpretentious walk.

Kind regards

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humbert68
humbert68

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 05, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

An easy and original walk not far from home. Peaceful and relaxing. A few places to rest completely. Ideal if you just want to go for a pleasant stroll without covering too many kilometres.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★
• Edited:

Thank you for your comment.
As for the animals visible on Rhine Island, you may also (with a bit of luck) see Konik Polski horses, descendants of primitive European wild horses.
five were recently introduced to help maintain the environment. If the experiment proves successful, in a few years' time other horses, including stallions, will join the group and be able to breed on the Rhine Island.
Enjoy your walk or run.

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MarineRBRT
MarineRBRT

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 02, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

We chose this hike, combined with Walk No. 4, for our running training.
It's very pleasant to run on this small island in the Rhine, interesting to study the enormous locks, beautiful views of the Rhine flowing through the stones, and friendly animals (we came across sheep and deer).
The long straight sections can seem a bit monotonous, especially on the canal side. But the path is wide and easy to walk on.
It's a shame that you can hear the German motorway a little, but at least you can't see it! The description matches the hike on the route, but it seemed shorter to me than the advertised distance. Overall, it's a beautiful place to walk.

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didwas
didwas

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 30, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average

Hello, rather monotonous route, especially the return trip to the ISTEIN bars.
A little shorter than described.
The locks were interesting, but it was a shame that no boats were passing through.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Hello

Thank you for your comment.

Machine-translated

yvouch
yvouch

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 05, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Interesting from a technical point of view in terms of hydroelectric power, interesting from the point of view of passing through the locks.
Nice... wild... all along the Old Rhine, with birds to accompany you on this little trip...

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

It is indeed more of a stroll than a hike, as the title suggests.
You may not have been impressed by one of the most beautiful natural sites in Alsace, but that doesn't mean the description is disappointing.
Did you get lost? Did you have trouble finding your way? Are the directions in this description incomplete or incorrect? If so, please provide information that will help improve it. I welcome constructive criticism.

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gilberlou
gilberlou

Overall rating : 2.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing

It's a walk, not a hike. After passing the locks, we actually descend along the Rhine, but the vegetation has taken over and we can't see much.
The Petite Camargue Alsacienne is limited to a few shrubs and pebbles on the banks of the Rhine.
We saw the birds, but in my opinion, the Barre d'Istein is of little interest.
The walk is short, but it has the advantage of being well shaded and allows us to discover our local area.

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