Walk along the old bed of the Rhine: from the Huningue Canal to the Old Rhine

Two centuries ago, the Rhine flowed in a network of meandering channels. From 1842, with the construction of dykes by Tulla, and then around 1930 with the construction of the Grand Canal, the river was channelled into a single course and the Rhine’s ecosystem was profoundly altered.
Today, there is a stark contrast between nature, which is becoming overgrown again as it adapts to the drying conditions with diverse and unique flora and fauna, and the intense industrial activity centred on shipping and hydroelectric power.

Details

228645
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Last update:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.31 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 253 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 256 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 810 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 745 ft
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ City: Kembs (68680)
  • ⚑
    Start/End: N 47.65896° / E 7.51332°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 3721ET
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Walk along the old bed of the Rhine.

Start from the car park on Rue de Rosenau, near the EDF roundabout decorated with a collection of turbine blades.

(S/E) Walk past the restaurant to join the cycle path, then turn left onto the tarmac access ramp leading up to the hydroelectric power station.
Leave the path leading down to the left bank of the Grand Canal on your left. Go straight on and continue to the power station.

(1) Cross the canal in front of the six turbines, then continue to the right towards the large locks. Pass the ‘Rhin et Découvertes’ shops on your right and cross the bridge in front of the imposing gates closing off the lock chambers, until you reach a small car park on Île du Rhin.

(2) Turn right towards the Kembs Dam (or Märkt Dam), go through the barrier at the end of the locks, ignore the path leading down the steps immediately on the left marked with a Green Ring (emergency route, see practical information) and continue for 700 m along the tarmac path beside the canal.

(3) Shortly after the end of the strip of land that divides the canal into two channels (one leading to the power station and the other to the locks), don’t miss the path on the left that descends towards the Old Rhine and the Barre d’Istein. Cross the tarmac road and enter the Petite Camargue Alsacienne nature reserve via a picturesque little path leading to the left bank of the Old Rhine.

(4) Turn right for a return walk upstream towards the Barre d’Istein.

(5) The Barre d’Istein is a rock formation creating rapids – a wild spot favoured by many birds (and swimmers in summer on the German bank). After enjoying the spot, retrace your steps. Alternative route – see practical information.

(4) Follow the wild banks of the Old Rhine downstream to the junction with the emergency path 700 metres further on.
At this junction, in dry weather and when the water level is low, you can take the path on the right down a steep descent (take care) to a pebble-strewn islet often frequented by Alsatians in summer. On the left, a shortcut is available for a quick return to the locks.

(6) Continue straight on for about 2 km to the spot known as ‘Le Bouchon’, where the Rhine and the Grand Canal run very close together. Just before reaching this point, a small fishermen’s path leads down to the riverbank and the islets, which are sometimes accessible (if the water level is low and with caution).

(7) This lovely spot is ideal for a break or for heading down to the banks of the Rhine (via a small flight of steps) to look out over the German bank, the islets and the surrounding vegetation. Then return to the Grand Canal and take the wide, carriageable path which leads back up to the locks and then the hydroelectric power station. Cross the bridge over the spillways.

(1) At the end of the bridge, before the bend, some steps lead down to the right towards the plant rooms and the fish ladder. You’ll reach a small car park; turn right to walk alongside the fish ladder, then follow the riverbank for about 600 metres.

(8) Just after a stream – a branch of the Augraben which flows into the canal – leave the riverbank to the left via a wide path. Cross the road and turn left towards the EDF roundabout. Go round the roundabout on the right to go up onto the bridge overlooking a pretty, now disused lock, with a view of the Huningue Canal and its towpath, which has been converted into a cycle path.

(9) Retrace your steps to return to the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 778 ft - Car park on Rue de Rosenau
  2. 1 : mi 0.38 - alt. 810 ft - Bridge over the spillways - Usine hydroélectrique de Kembs
  3. 2 : mi 0.88 - alt. 807 ft - On the right on Île du Rhin - Grand canal d'Alsace
  4. 3 : mi 1.56 - alt. 807 ft - On the left - Le Vieux Rhin
  5. 4 : mi 1.75 - alt. 771 ft - Turn right towards the Istain sandbar - Rhin (fleuve)
  6. 5 : mi 2.17 - alt. 781 ft - Return downstream - Petite Camargue Alsacienne
  7. 6 : mi 3.04 - alt. 771 ft - Crossroads – Pebble beach
  8. 7 : mi 4.41 - alt. 778 ft - Viewpoint - Le Vieux Rhin
  9. 8 : mi 5.91 - alt. 774 ft - On the left after the - Augraben (rivière)
  10. 9 : mi 6.19 - alt. 778 ft - Bridge over the Kembs-Loechlé lock - Canal de Huningue
  11. S/E : mi 6.31 - alt. 778 ft - Car park on Rue de Rosenau

Notes

(5) Alternative route: continue along the bank of the Old Rhine upstream. After about 800 m, you’ll pass close to the mouth of the ‘Petit Rhin’, hidden behind a screen of vegetation except in winter, when a short round trip allows you to view it.
Return to the path to reach a vast renaturalised area. 200 m further on, a small bridge offers a lovely view of the whole area.

If you wish to visit the new power station and the dam, the walk will take you two hours or more if you continue on to the German bank; this return walk is enhanced by stops at two observation points.
For further details, see the walk around the Petit Rhin.

(6) Shortcut: You can shorten the route to 7.2 km by turning left at the stairs onto the path that leads through a lovely dry meadow and then, after a wooden footbridge, climbs back up to the level of the locks.

Eating:
Food and drink available at the Chalet de l’Espace Rhin et Découverte next to the Grandes Écluses.
Picnics are possible at point (7).

Precautions:
If there has been heavy rain in the days leading up to your walk, the path to the Barre d’Istein may be flooded; in this case, take the first path on the left (marked with the ‘Green Ring’ sign) shortly after the barrier, at the far end of the locks, which leads to point (6).

There are numerous signs on Île du Rhin; some are educational, others remind walkers that this is a protected natural environment to be respected, whilst others warn that the water level can change rapidly depending on the operation of the hydroelectric facilities.

Worth a visit

The Maison du Patrimoine: Wednesdays from 2 pm to 6 pm and on the first Sunday of the month from 10 am to 12 noon. It provides information on the town’s history, dating back to the Gallo-Roman period, which is often linked to that of the Rhine.
There is a wealth of information on the construction of the Grand Canal d’Alsace and the development of hydroelectric power, as well as on the flora and fauna in the Petite Camargue Alsacienne area.
A visit here helps you to better appreciate the walks along the old riverbed of the Rhine.

Tour of the Kembs Power Station (1932).
The Kembs hydropower scheme is the first of 10 schemes built on the Rhine as part of a wider industrial and environmental development project.

In summer, there are many bathers on the German side downstream of the Istein sandbar, as well as nudists, a practice that is common in Germany.
On the French side, which is less sunny, there is a large crowd on the vast pebble ‘beach’ near point (6) as well as near (7).

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 14 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.3 / 5
FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Thank you for your feedback.

Kind regards

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ptk
ptk

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 26, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely, peaceful walk with beautiful views (Ipstein rapids, pebble beach, pretty shaded sections). Interesting information boards along the route.
The Chalet doesn't just serve fast food, but also good meals.
To our surprise, we were impressed by the large locks and were transfixed as the barges passed through.
The topographical "navigation" of the hike through the app is excellent.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Thank you for your comment.
The German side is sunnier and very busy whenever there is sunshine. Access to the beaches is easier, and there is a large area reserved for nudists. It is also very noisy due to its proximity to the motorway.
The French side is quieter, shadier and generally less crowded, except for a few pebble beaches in very good weather and by the local population.
It is up to each individual to decide which suits them best.

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Dany68300
Dany68300

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 29, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

It is the side in Germany, which is very busy, that seems more interesting, especially for swimming in hot weather.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Hello Mickanside

Thank you for your very interesting comment.
Kind regards

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Mickanside
Mickanside
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 18, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you, FJ, for this very enjoyable walk on these summer days!
However, it is best to do this walk when the temperature is below 30°C. We did it between 10:30 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. (a 3½-hour walk). The temperature rose to 29°C, which was just about acceptable.
The sun beats down hard between (1) and (2), so remember to protect yourself.
Between (2) and (3), we took the path parallel (below) to the one indicated in the description: much less crowded and more shaded!
Surprisingly, unlike the German side, which was very busy, there was absolutely no one on the pebble island (6)! This made for a very pleasant and refreshing break! (Be careful though, as swimming is prohibited and the strong currents are dangerous).
The route was very quiet, except between (1) and (3), despite the fact that it was a beautiful summer's day, and a Saturday at that! We didn't meet a single person between (5) and (2) (on the way back).

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Thank you for your comment.
Yes, that is exactly the aim of this unpretentious walk.

Kind regards

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humbert68
humbert68

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 05, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

An easy and original walk not far from home. Peaceful and relaxing. A few places to rest completely. Ideal if you just want to go for a pleasant stroll without covering too many kilometres.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★
• Edited:

Thank you for your comment.
As for the animals visible on Rhine Island, you may also (with a bit of luck) see Konik Polski horses, descendants of primitive European wild horses.
five were recently introduced to help maintain the environment. If the experiment proves successful, in a few years' time other horses, including stallions, will join the group and be able to breed on the Rhine Island.
Enjoy your walk or run.

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MarineRBRT
MarineRBRT

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 02, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

We chose this hike, combined with Walk No. 4, for our running training.
It's very pleasant to run on this small island in the Rhine, interesting to study the enormous locks, beautiful views of the Rhine flowing through the stones, and friendly animals (we came across sheep and deer).
The long straight sections can seem a bit monotonous, especially on the canal side. But the path is wide and easy to walk on.
It's a shame that you can hear the German motorway a little, but at least you can't see it! The description matches the hike on the route, but it seemed shorter to me than the advertised distance. Overall, it's a beautiful place to walk.

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didwas
didwas

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 30, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average

Hello, rather monotonous route, especially the return trip to the ISTEIN bars.
A little shorter than described.
The locks were interesting, but it was a shame that no boats were passing through.

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

Hello

Thank you for your comment.

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yvouch
yvouch

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 05, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Interesting from a technical point of view in terms of hydroelectric power, interesting from the point of view of passing through the locks.
Nice... wild... all along the Old Rhine, with birds to accompany you on this little trip...

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FJ6888
FJ6888 ★

It is indeed more of a stroll than a hike, as the title suggests.
You may not have been impressed by one of the most beautiful natural sites in Alsace, but that doesn't mean the description is disappointing.
Did you get lost? Did you have trouble finding your way? Are the directions in this description incomplete or incorrect? If so, please provide information that will help improve it. I welcome constructive criticism.

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gilberlou
gilberlou

Overall rating : 2.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing

It's a walk, not a hike. After passing the locks, we actually descend along the Rhine, but the vegetation has taken over and we can't see much.
The Petite Camargue Alsacienne is limited to a few shrubs and pebbles on the banks of the Rhine.
We saw the birds, but in my opinion, the Barre d'Istein is of little interest.
The walk is short, but it has the advantage of being well shaded and allows us to discover our local area.

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