Craonne and the California Plateau

On one of the sites of the ill-fated Chemin des Dames offensive of April 1917, this route is mainly through forest but with clear passages offering superb views that give an understanding of how perilous the operation was. The route through the site of the former village of Craonne, which was razed to the ground under a barrage of artillery fire, is particularly moving. The remains of Vauclair Abbey provide a beautiful heritage-filled end to the walk.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: Paths of remembrance from the Great War

Details

471832
Creation:
Last update:
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 12.17 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 141 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 144 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 194 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 86 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Departure from the ruins of Vauclair Abbey. There are two car parks along the D886. Park in the small car park on the left-hand side of the road before the Étang des Moines if you are coming from the Hurtebise farm, or on the right-hand side of the road if you are coming from the village of Bouconville-Vauclair. If the small car park is full, park in the large car park on the other side of the road.

Unless otherwise indicated in the description, the route follows blue circular markings. The circles are painted either on tree trunks in the forest or on dedicated signs marked "Saint-Victor". In some places, there are other types of markings, which are only indicated when necessary.

(S/E) From the small car park (several information boards), head south-west, pass through a forest barrier and take a wide grassy path (signposted "Chemin des Dames", red and whiteGR®®12markings). At the fork, take the forest track on the left (sign with orange arrow; the blue trail continues straight ahead but then returns via a tarmac road).

(1) Cross a tarmac road, pass through a forest gate and rejoin the blue markings. Leave the Étang de la Fontaine on your right and continue straight ahead uphill. At the crossroads, turn left (north-east). Ignore a path on the right, go downhill and note the former site of an artillery battery on the left (information sign).

(2) At the next junction, turn right onto a good path (no markings here). Stay on this main path, which climbs and winds slightly in a south-easterly direction. Ignore a turn-off on the right at forest plot no. 55 and continue straight ahead at the next crossroads. The slope becomes steeper and the path turns right. At the next junction, continue straight ahead and climb more gently. At the end of the path, follow the tarmac road on the left.

(3) After about 300 metres, leave the blue markings for a moment, cross the road and follow the path that leads to the Napoleon monument (beautiful view, information panel). Retrace your steps and cross the road again.

(3) Two paths lead off from the side of the road; follow the one on the right (north-north-east) which enters a spruce wood. At the first junction, continue straight ahead and, at the second junction (plots nos. 58 and 59), take the first path on the right. At the end of the path, turn left downhill into a wide forest lane.

(4) At the bottom, at the junction where the slope breaks (plots nos. 45 and 46), turn right and walk eastwards through a beech forest.

(5) At the crossroads (information board), turn right at a right angle (south). At the bottom of a short descent, turn left to reach a viewpoint with wooden railings.

(6) Go down the steps to the right of the viewpoint, cross the road and head for the orientation table (information panels). Retrace your steps.

(6) Continue east along the Chemin de Ronde towards the observation tower. Stay under the pine forest on the main path, which is marked with several information panels. Ignore a "shortcut" on the left and, in the open terrain, note the view of the village of Craonne on the right. Reach the foot of the observation tower.

(7) Turn left and begin the ascent of the monumental observation tower (superb panorama). Retrace your steps.

(7) Pass the picnic tables on your left and the remains of an old blockhouse on your right, and descend steeply.

(8) At the T-junction, leave the blue markings for a moment and turn right. After a slight descent, you will reach a car park located on the site of the former Place de la Croisette in the razed village of Craonne. Cross the D18CD road, follow the former Rue du Bloc and you will arrive at the site of the former Saint-Martin Church.

(9) Retrace your steps to the junction at the bottom of the descent from the observation tower.

(8) Find the blue markings and continue north, walking alongside the former Craonne cemetery on your right. Continue along the edge of the woods on your left, pass a forest barrier and descend into a sunken path in the undergrowth. Ignore a vague path on the right and continue to a fork.

(10) Then turn left and head west.

(11) At the next fork (plots nos. 51 and 49), turn right and leave a clearing (unused in March 2017) on your left. Then cross a tarmac forest road and continue north-west then north.

(12) At the next crossroads, turn left, go through a forest barrier (red and whiteGR®® marker) and follow a good path discreetly stabilised by stones. Walk west or west-southwest, ignore all the side paths and walk along forest plots nos. 23 to 16 on the left and nos. 7 to 5 on the right.

(13) At the crossroads following a forest barrier, continue slightly to the right into plot no. 4 (do not take the first path on the right). Then follow the D886 road to the left. Before the pond, turn left and cross the conservatory garden. Then turn right and visit the ruins of Vauclair Abbey (indicative route on the map). Join the D886 road, turn left leaving the pond on your right and return to the car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 90 m - Parking at the - Abbaye de Vauclair
  2. 1 : km 0.46 - alt. 110 m - Route D886
  3. 2 : km 1.06 - alt. 102 m - Chemin des Frères Anciaux
  4. 3 : km 2.79 - alt. 191 m - Napoleon Monument - Chemin des Dames
  5. 4 : km 4.13 - alt. 181 m - Crossroads at the edge of the plateau
  6. 5 : km 4.69 - alt. 181 m - Crossroads - Remains of a trench
  7. 6 : km 4.96 - alt. 179 m - Belvedere
  8. 7 : km 5.82 - alt. 177 m - Observation tower
  9. 8 : km 6.06 - alt. 150 m - T-junction - Access to the former Craonne
  10. 9 : km 6.3 - alt. 131 m - Location of the former Saint-Martin church - Ancien Craonne
  11. 10 : km 7.18 - alt. 129 m - Fork
  12. 11 : km 7.65 - alt. 121 m - Saint-Victor
  13. 12 : km 8.47 - alt. 94 m - Chemin du Roi
  14. 13 : km 10.83 - alt. 92 m - Crossroads
  15. S/E : km 12.16 - alt. 90 m - Parking at the - Abbaye de Vauclair

Notes

Hiking boots required. Passages may be muddy in wet weather.

No water sources identified along the route. Picnic tables at the foot of the observation tower (7).

1:25,000 map required (at least the one accompanying this description).

Conditions of access to the observation tower (7):
- The climb up the wooden stairs is quite steep.
- Children under 12 must be accompanied by an adult.
- People who are prone to vertigo may wish to refrain from making the climb.

Additional information:
Between points (8) and (9), it is possible to visit the arboretum established on the site of the former village of Craonne (signs at various locations): one part is located beyond point (11), the other to the left before the road when arriving from point (8).

Hike completed by the author on 11 March 2017.

Worth a visit

Between Vauclair Abbey (S/E) and the viewpoint (6):
- Remains of shell holes here and there along the entire route.
- Remains of the front artillery battery (2) (information panel).
- Napoleon monument (3) and information panel about the Battle of Craonne on 6 and 7 March 1814.
- Remains of trenches or access tunnels: on the west-east section between (3) and (4); between (4) and (5); at the crossroads (5).

From the viewpoint (6) to the observation tower (7):
- Belvedere, orientation table (unfortunately very old) and information panels (6).
- A bronze sculpture by the French artist of German origin Haïm Kern (1930-), entitled "Ils n'ont pas choisi leur sépulture" (They did not choose their burial place), was erected in 1998 in tribute to the soldiers of all nationalities who died during the battles of 1917 at this location. In August 2014, this work was stolen: it is still unclear whether stupidity prevailed over greed...
- Numerous information panels between (6) and (7).
- Observation tower (7): superb panorama of the village of Craonne and the area from which French troops launched their assault on the plateau.

From the observation tower (7) to the Chemin du Roi (12):
- Old village of Craonne between (8) and (9), notably the site of the old church. An arboretum has been created on this site.
- Former cemetery of Craonne, shortly after the crossroads (8) heading towards the point (10).

From Chemin du Roi (12) to Vauclair Abbey (S/E):
- Conservatory orchard, just before the abbey, where old varieties of fruit trees are maintained.
- Ruins of the Cistercian Abbey of Vauclair (12th century).

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 27 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.7 / 5
Route interest
4.7 / 5
Caroline70
Caroline70

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 11, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely walk alternating between woodland and open paths with beautiful views of the Chemin des Dames. Information panels about the history of the site are also provided.

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Clovis5793
Clovis5793

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 01, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant and interesting hike that allows you to follow in the footsteps of the Chemin des Dames and the Craonne that has disappeared. There are numerous signs explaining what you can see. However, this hike is best done in dry weather. Even in dry weather, as was the case, some sections remain muddy.

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Dulauroy
Dulauroy

Very beautiful hike
To be repeated again

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hsportemer
hsportemer

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 18, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Many historical traces, as advertised. Very muddy at the time of our hike.

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Dulauroy
Dulauroy

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 21, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Great nature hike

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remi2000
remi2000

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Bring walking shoes as there are several muddy areas (even in August), such as on the climb after the small pond at the start of the hike.

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Celin
Celin

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 18, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Originally from the east, this
Route allowed us to combine history with the pleasure of walking. The last part is a bit monotonous because it's straight, but it's still very pleasant

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Sof'93
Sof'93

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 11, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful tour that allows you to immerse yourself in nature and in a poignant period of history.
The ruins of Vauclair Abbey, the village of Craonne (of which nothing remains) and its old cemetery overgrown with vegetation (very moving), the shell holes still visible even though covered by vegetation, the historical information boards along the way, the exceptional view from the impressive observation tower...
The directions are very clear, thank you! Our only regret is that we had to cut short our visit to the viewpoint and its orientation table (6) due to a nearby hunt.
A word of caution: make sure you wear good shoes as the trail can be quite muddy in places...
Finally, at the end of the hike, we recommend a quick stop at the La Musteline microbrewery in Jumigny (https://la-musteline.beer/), where Renaud's warm welcome and the opportunity to try his beers, named after badgers, make for an excellent moment that warms the body and soul after a day in the winter chill

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fbogg
fbogg

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 02, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Trail covered during the week

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Emma.
Emma.
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 28, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike, mainly in the forest, which has the advantage of passing through many fascinating sites (Vauclair Abbey, observation tower, various information panels about the Chemin des Dames and the surrounding area) and even some moving ones (arboretum in the former Craonne, cemetery, etc.). A beautiful fox, a bit of a show-off, honoured us with its presence, which didn't spoil anything.

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alebars
alebars

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 18, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful hike with many points of interest relating to the Battle of the Chemin des Dames. Beautiful views at points 3 and 7.

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delph_d2312
delph_d2312

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 13, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

nice route, quite muddy, allows you to explore the forest and learn about its history

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DEUTZ
DEUTZ

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 20, 2020
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant hike steeped in history.
Between 1 and 2, there were about ten metres of mud despite the current dry weather.
The climb just before point 3 is a little challenging.
At point 3, see the Napoleon monument with an exceptional view of the valley. The same view can be seen at point 7 at the observation tower.
Point 6 is very interesting.
Take the time to read the information boards at points 7, 8 and 9 and visit the old village of Craonne and its old cemetery
Between points 12 and 13, there is a long walk through the forest where you may see game if you are not too noisy.
Between points 3, 4 and 5, you can see bomb craters.

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Percy ELIOTT
Percy ELIOTT

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 17, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

The return route provides an opportunity to reflect on this sad period. Some of the blue signs and roundabouts have been removed, but the directions help you find your way back

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Pascal Denis 51
Pascal Denis 51

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 25, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful walk through the forest, where it takes some effort to imagine the fighting that took place here during the First World War. The information boards are very well done.
Worth mentioning in the description is the presence of the grave of Yves Gibeau, a French writer, in the old cemetery in Craonne.

Be sure to wear walking shoes as there are several muddy spots (even in the middle of August), such as on the climb after the small pond at the start of the hike.

...and there is a good crop of hazelnuts and apples near Vauclair Abbey

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