The Orthodox Monastery of La Traverse

A pleasant loop around the pretty village of Montgreleix, ending at the Orthodox Monastery of the Mother of God Znaménié (open to visitors at certain times) at La Traverse. No technical difficulties and a wide variety of landscapes (pastures typical of the Cézallier region and burons, valleys and small woods, streams and waterfalls, etc.). You may even return with a Saint-Nectaire cheese in your bag...

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.79 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 3h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 892 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 922 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 4,180 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 3,438 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

Park at the entrance to Montgreleix in front of the town hall and the stopover lodge on the ground floor (small car park), located on the left coming from Marcenat.

(S/E) Turn left when leaving the car park towards the village, then after a few metres turn right onto the road leading to the cemetery.

Start of the Tour du Cezallier (Tour des Vaches Rouges) trail

(1) Turn right towards the lake. Pass the Lac des Estives holiday village (restricted access) and head towards the Hameau du Lac, crossing at the junction in the middle.

(2) Turn left onto a good path that follows the road after a few metres. Climb gradually through the pastures and reach the Buron de Naufonts plateau.

(3) The path then descends towards the hamlet of Saillant, following the fence on your left, but when you reach the bottom of the field, turn right to find the passageway to the next plot. You will arrive at Saillant and the crossroads at the entrance to the hamlet.

(4) Take the road opposite towards the waterfalls (the road on the left is the D36 to Boutaresse, the road on the right leads to the hamlet, where you can visit the communal oven). Pass the waterfalls and continue along the road, which becomes a wide path on the other side of the valley. After about 3 km, you will reach the few houses of La Traverse and the Orthodox monastery.

(5) Continue along the road until you reach the hamlet of Le Godde.

(6) At the intersection in the hamlet, turn right. After about 150 m, look for the start of a path on the right (Sentier des Écoliers) just before the last house in the hamlet, in the bend to the left.

This section is not marked on the Tour du Cezallier (Tour des Vaches Rouges) trail and is marked in yellow

(7) Take this fairly narrow path and descend to the stream (waterfall, ruins of a mill). After a small bridge, the path climbs up the other side to the road leading to the hamlet of Le Fayet.

(8) Turn left and at the next intersection a few metres further on, turn right onto the road leading to Condeval.

(9) Once in Condeval (where Saint-Nectaire cheese is made and sold), continue straight ahead between the farm buildings and find the path at the edge of the field on your right.
This path descends to the Ruisseau de Condeval, then climbs back up to the D636 road. It is not always clearly visible in the field, but the road is easy to find 300 m after the stream, 20 m above and due west.

(10) At the road, turn right, head towards Montgreleix and park in front of the town hall (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 4,026 ft - Parking in front of the town hall
  2. 1 : mi 0.2 - alt. 4,019 ft - Turn right at the cemetery
  3. 2 : mi 1.15 - alt. 3,993 ft - Hameau du Lac
  4. 3 : mi 1.81 - alt. 4,180 ft - Buron de Naufonts
  5. 4 : mi 2.6 - alt. 3,839 ft - Le Saillant hamlet
  6. 5 : mi 4.04 - alt. 3,753 ft - Orthodox monastery at La Traverse
  7. 6 : mi 4.75 - alt. 3,622 ft - Hamlet of Godde
  8. 7 : mi 4.83 - alt. 3,632 ft - Path on the right before the last house
  9. 8 : mi 5.13 - alt. 3,596 ft - Junction with the road to Le Fayet
  10. 9 : mi 5.48 - alt. 3,714 ft - Condeval
  11. 10 : mi 6.09 - alt. 3,763 ft - Junction with the D636
  12. S/E : mi 6.79 - alt. 4,026 ft - Parking in front of the town hall

Notes

Water, food and accommodation in Montgreleix (Auberge du Cezallier).

The route crosses summer grazing areas: please respect the herds, do not cross them but go around them, close gates behind you, keep dogs on a leash (or better still, do not bring them!).

Worth a visit

Mongreleix: former cross-country ski resort, church, Lac des Estives,
Le Saillant: waterfalls and bread oven

Orthodox Monastery of the Mother of God Znaménié: This is an old barn that took six years to restore and convert. Dependent on the Moscow Patriarchate and run by nuns, it can be visited on Sundays (2pm-6pm) and during school holidays (guided tour).
The sisters devote their time to religion, prayer, services and icon painting, but also to beekeeping, gardening and making products for sale, such as honey, gingerbread and jams

Le Godde: waterfall and ruins of the mill.
Condeval: Saint-Nectaire cheese sale.

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 38 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.4 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.4 / 5
Route interest
4.7 / 5
User 2998184

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 26, 2026
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

At the start of the walk, to avoid taking the road leading to the holiday village, take the path below which leads directly to the lakeside hamlet.
Similarly, on the way back, when you reach the D636, take the first path on the left which leads to the village, without going along the road.

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User 16470746

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 01, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A very beautiful hike. Varied. The arid Cézallier plateau, panoramic views. And the coolness of the undergrowth, streams and waterfalls. A few smiling local farmers. And an unusual stop: the monastery.

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User 16470746

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 04, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A varied hike. Very pretty landscapes.

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Gisèle 94
Gisèle 94
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Magnificent route on the Cézalier.
Vast panoramic views.
Beautiful herds.

A visit to the small Orthodox monastery is a bonus. A warm welcome from the nun, who is happy to show visitors around and answer questions.

Comments:

  • Between points 3 and 4 (between the buron and the village of Le Saillant), the path is difficult to see and quite marshy in places (even though we were there during a dry period). Keep to the left and look for a gate that allows you to cross into the meadow below
  • When you arrive at Le Saillant, there is a picnic table!
  • On leaving Le Saillant, take a look at the communal oven and, a little further on, the waterfall (go down to it if you're feeling brave)
  • After point 7, the trail is very steep and can be very slippery (good footwear is essential). This is a somewhat difficult section.
  • Waterfall on the way back up
  • We avoided the last part on the road by taking a path that climbs up to the left of the road, then turning right onto another path.

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User 8927278

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 21, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely route with no difficulties.
We did it on a grey day, but the scenery was magnificent.
The Orthodox monastery was a lovely stop.
The sister in charge of the tour (free of charge) is charming and answers all questions in great detail.
You can buy relics (not my thing) as well as honey, jams and gingerbread.
There's also a beautiful waterfall to discover along the way.

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BOB63
BOB63

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 04, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

beautiful landscapes
hike done in hot weather
passage through summer pastures requires an IGN map and a good sense of direction

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Tessylvie
Tessylvie

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful, easy hike. Varied landscapes and magnificent waterfalls. No issues with signage as far as I'm concerned

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Mo63
Mo63

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 26, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

One word: magnificent, from start to finish (despite crossing a pasture with a herd of horses on one side and cows with calves and a bull on the other...!) with a visit to the monastery, and above all, don't forget to stop for coffee at Jean-Jacques in Montgreleix
DON'T forget that Visorando walks are NEVER signposted as such, even if they sometimes follow sections of signposted paths!
The GPX track is a great help..

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Tripoux
Tripoux

Overall rating : 1.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★☆☆☆☆ Very disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★☆☆☆☆ Very disappointing
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

The route is poorly signposted, and part of the descent is uncleared and dangerous.
The mileage indicated on the information sheet does not correspond to the actual distance, with a difference of 2.5 km.

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Magatine
Magatine

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We really enjoyed this hike. Very beautiful and varied.

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CatBesse
CatBesse

Overall rating : 2.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Very interesting route, but unfortunately the path is not maintained beyond number 7. We had to take the road, which made the route longer and less interesting.

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Chefdeville
Chefdeville

The small village of Montgreleix is charming, as are the vast surrounding landscapes with Salers cows and horses.

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Chefdeville
Chefdeville

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 10, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Varied landscapes with the monastery as the highlight and beautiful waterfalls along the easily accessible trail.

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janaser
janaser

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 16, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A tour with varied landscapes. An added bonus for this tour is the very interesting stop at the monastery.

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Coraya
Coraya

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 05, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant hike with beautiful scenery, waterfalls, cows and their calves...
At the Condeval farm, between the buildings, do not follow the yellow markings on the left, but take the path on the right.

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