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The walk starts from the Parc de la Nègre at the very top of the Chemin de Palama, which continues to Château-Gombert, a lovely neighbourhood in Marseille. Just before a gate, there is a car park with around twenty spaces where you can park easily. The park takes its name from the nickname of a local shepherd in the 19th century, Pierre Triengue, known as ‘Le Nègre’.
(S/E) Set off by going through this barrier and, after 250 m, take the steps on the right. Turn immediately left onto the track and keep to the left about twenty metres further on.
(1) Head up the path on the right, which climbs steeply for 300 m, until you reach a viewing platform with an orientation board. Take the track opposite, which runs alongside a field of fig trees, and continue until you reach a three-way junction.
(2) Continue along the track to the left for about 1 km.
(3) A small path on the right allows you to take a shortcut and join another track. Continue due north along this descending track opposite.
(4) Take a path up to the left just before a hairpin bend on the track. The path heads due west.
(5) The Col des Ouides marks the end of this fairly challenging climb. Head up the path on the right, which heads north. This is the start of the long ridge walk along the Chaîne de l’Étoile, leading to the Pilon du Roi. Ignore the offshoots to the right or left that appear from time to time. If the weather permits, take a moment to admire the views and the curious rock formations along the path (see photos).
(6) Leave the path on your right – which you’ll take on the way back – and continue straight on to the Pas de la Colle.
(7) This marks the ‘real’ start of the climb up to the Pilon du Roi. You’ll need to use your hands to help you on several sections. But after about 700 metres, your reward awaits: the monolith known as the Pilon du Roi. Enjoy the view if the weather permits – which it didn’t for us.
(8) Turn back, head back to the Pas de la Colle and return to a fork in the path you passed on the way up.
(6) Head down to the left along the path that heads south-west and joins a track at a hairpin bend.
(9) Keep to the right and follow this track due south until you reach the first junction.
(10) Take the path opposite which leaves the track, continuing southwards and ignoring the track on the left. You’ll reach the Tête du Jacquot plateau and continue southwards.
(11) Cross the gas pipeline route, then follow the small path running parallel to it until you reach the track; follow this down to the right, still heading due south. You’ll reach a three-way junction.
(12) Carry on to the right, heading north. Then take the first hairpin bend to the left to head south again, crossing a stream. You’ll reach the fork you passed on the way out.
(2) Retrace your steps along the route you took on the way there until you reach the car park (S/E).
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