La Grande Etoile and return via the Col des Ouides

A beautiful hike in the Massif de l'Etoile, with superb views of Marseille, its surroundings and the Frioul Islands. The colours and scents of the heath accompany walkers throughout the circuit.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.25 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 4h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 472 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 467 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 643 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 193 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ City: Marseille (13000)
  • ⚑
    Start/End: N 43.364616° / E 5.446624°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 3145ET
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

In Marseille, head towards Château Gombert, then Palama. Park your car at the side of the road, just before the junction where the small road on the left leads to the equestrian centre of the same name

(S/E). Leave your car and walk to the first fork a few metres further on. Turn left uphill onto Chemin de Palama, towards the Equestrian Centre. The small road climbs quite steeply through heath and a few isolated houses. You will come to a first junction at the Equestrian Centre, which is on your left.

(1) Continue straight ahead on the main road, which levels out, ignoring all the turnings (small roads or tracks) on the left and right. You will reach a car park under the pine trees.

(2) Continue straight ahead, ignoring a track on the right and a path on the left 100 metres further on. After passing a cistern on the right, you will come to a crossroads.

(3) Leave the main track and take a much narrower path opposite, which climbs straight up to the Grande Étoile (blue cross on the ground). The climb is steep and relentless until you reach the first rocky ridge just below the communication antennas, where you will come out onto a path coming from the right.

Take this path on the left. The path is flat and allows you to rest your legs a little after this steep climb. The view opens up and you can enjoy it. The Vallon Dol basin and the Frioul islands, among other things, are visible.

Be careful, however: the path runs about 60 centimetres from the cliff on the left, so you need to stay alert.

Walk along the base of the rock supporting the antennas and turn 180°. Here, take the opportunity to walk beyond a small rocky outcrop on your left to admire the view of Marseille. Take the path on the left without losing altitude.

(4) Turn right at the corner of the fence surrounding the facilities. You will quickly come to a small tarmac access road, which you take on the left to reach the viewpoint that marks the start of the Barre de l'Etoile.

(5) Take the path on the right, walking first below the ridge and then joining it to reach the Etoile facilities. Follow the path that goes around it on the right.

(6) Turn right at a 90° angle and begin a fairly steep descent with the Col des Ouides below and the Pilon du Roi in the background. Be careful to spot the start of the path, which is not very obvious. Blue mark on the ground.

(7) Once at the pass, ignore the path that branches off to the left and the one that goes straight towards Pilon du Roi. Continue for a few metres and turn right downhill. The path enters a small valley covered in heath and leads to a much wider track.

(8) Turn right and, 100 metres further on, turn right again onto another track, as wide as the previous one, which climbs slightly. Continue until the track bends 90° to the right.

(9) Leave the track and take the shortcut that joins it 50 metres further down. This saves time and distance. Continue to the next bend.

(10) Leave this track and take a small path on the right that descends steeply into the Vallon du Sauveur. Pass a few buildings on the left, then another house among the pine trees and continue to a fork (quarry opposite on the right).

(11) Turn right, pass the entrance to the quarry and continue straight on to the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 195 m - Parking, Chemin de Palama
  2. 1 : km 0.67 - alt. 270 m - Crossroads at the Equestrian Centre. Continue straight ahead.
  3. 2 : km 1.86 - alt. 357 m - Car park, straight ahead
  4. 3 : km 2.63 - alt. 417 m - Crossroads. Take the path opposite.
  5. 4 : km 3.68 - alt. 574 m - At the corner of the fence, turn right - La Grande Étoile
  6. 5 : km 4.45 - alt. 577 m - Viewpoint. Take the path on the right.
  7. 6 : km 5.38 - alt. 631 m - Start of the trail towards Col des Ouides after - L'Étoile (650m)
  8. 7 : km 5.51 - alt. 594 m - Opposite, then immediately to the right - Col des Ouides (582m)
  9. 8 : km 6.52 - alt. 411 m - Intersection with the track. Turn right.
  10. 9 : km 7.41 - alt. 417 m - Bend in the track. Take the shortcut on the left.
  11. 10 : km 7.83 - alt. 395 m - Bend. Leave the track and turn right.
  12. 11 : km 9.59 - alt. 227 m - At the junction, quarry, turn right
  13. S/E : km 10.25 - alt. 197 m - Parking: Chemin de Palama.

Notes

Alternative starting point for this hike.

You can start at the car park (2), after the Equestrian Centre, but this option requires you to walk back up Chemin de Palama at the end of the hike.

Water can be found at the Source des Ouides, after the pass of the same name, but you should plan ahead as several sections of the circuit are very steep and the low vegetation offers no protection from the sun.

Good walking shoes and walking sticks are recommended for this hike, which has many rocky sections.

The section between (3) and (4) requires caution. The path runs along the rocky ridge close to the edge.
Not recommended in strong winds or with young children.

Worth a visit

There are many hikes possible in the same area, including the one described in Visorando.
https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-la-t...
You'll never tire of it, especially in May, when the flowers burst into bloom across the heath.

Reviews and comments

4.2 / 5
Based on 23 reviews

Reliability of the description
4 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.1 / 5
Route interest
4.5 / 5
User 27544133

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 07, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Difficulty finding your way around, no options, no alternative routes...

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Kauder
Kauder

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 31, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Beautiful hike with magnificent views of Marseille. Avoid in strong winds

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Lélé
Lélé

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 18, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely walk, not too crowded on a Saturday afternoon!
Thank you

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NITRITE
NITRITE

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 01, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

beautiful hike, amazing views, but done in strong winds... which is to be avoided, as indicated!

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marc miramon
marc miramon

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 20, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hello, did this at the weekend in quite windy conditions – no particular difficulties – nice scenery over Marseille and the surrounding area – if you suffer from vertigo, it's best to take the second corniche – the only downside for me was too many firebreaks towards the end, so I cut across just before point 11 to reach the equestrian centre

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lucienros1
lucienros1

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 13, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

The only minor issue was with the transmitter.
Couldn't find the passage.
So, I followed the path that goes around the transmitter.
Still nice, though.

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CathyMCC22
CathyMCC22

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 14, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Today's hike took place in very cool winds and under very overcast skies.
A very beautiful hike in terms of scenery and variety. No particular technical difficulties.
Unfortunately, the description is far too vague, especially after point 5. We took a path (which follows a gas pipeline) but think it was not the right route.
Well, we did find our way back to the starting point, but it spoiled the enjoyment of the hike a little...

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annemariecar
annemariecar

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 29, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Very interesting hike, beautiful panoramic views
Perhaps extend the morning climb to the Grande Etoile by continuing along the track for longer before starting the ascent, allowing time for a picnic under the south-facing rocks.
at point 8, the Ouides spring, we did not turn right and followed a different path parallel to Palama, which was less interesting than the Sauveur valley
A very nice day in any case

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melissa13
melissa13

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 30, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Stunning views of Marseille, the islands and the Etang de Berre lagoon

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TROUVE Jean-Jacques
TROUVE Jean-Jacques ★

Hello,

First of all, thank you for completing this route and leaving your comments.
In response to your first comment, I would add that this hike should be avoided in high winds: the section between (3) and (4) is indeed exposed.
Regarding your comment about the rocky outcrops at (3), I did not specify that you have to climb up to the second outcrop simply because my route does not go there. I chose the first outcrop, where the path is quite exposed but not really dangerous if you are careful. However, this section is not recommended for children. I will also add a note to this effect.
Finally, I apologise that the positioning of (6) and (7) on the map obscures the route. On the ground, the start of the trail at (6) is quite difficult to find, as I mentioned in my description. (7) is more obvious.
I hope that the next experience on this circuit will be more positive.
Best regards,

Jean-Jacques TROUVÉ
Moderator

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cbebydoub
cbebydoub

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 18, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

hello,
first recommendation: this hike should be avoided on windy days, and you need to be reasonably fit – the description could be more precise. We climbed via the steep and long path indicated – the markings on the ground correspond to a blue cross. The path marked in blue on the right is easier. Please note that this is also a mountain bike trail. To go around the large star (4), you apparently have to climb onto the second bar. This is not clear in the description. On the first bar, the path is 60 cm from the edge. We didn't take the risk of doing it. For the small star, we don't have GPS. Points 6 and 7 on the map provided on the website hide the route back down... In the end, as we started the hike late, we turned back.

the hike is interesting. It's worth the effort (you need to be a bit experienced before attempting it) – very beautiful view of the entire bay of Marseille. You can see the Étang de Berre.
A hike to be repeated without fail... with a little more preparation. Best regards

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MBL
MBL

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 18, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

Thank you to the author for suggesting this beautiful hike. The GPS was very helpful in finding our way.
The views of Marseille, the Étang de Berre, Aix-en-Provence, and the Etoile, Sainte Victoire, and Sainte Beaume mountains are very beautiful, especially along the "grande antenne" for Marseille and on the Etoile for the panoramic view.
The descent from the Col des Ouides through the heath is also very pleasant. We didn't enjoy the rest of the route as much, which was on wide paths or DFCI roads that were much less picturesque.

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Sherkai
Sherkai
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 11, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A beautiful hike with superb views of the Marseille area.
It's best to start from the La Grande Bergerie car park, as it's easier to park there, and return by cutting across before point 11.
A GPS is a plus for following the route properly...

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gise13
gise13

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 18, 2018
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Very beautiful hike
Superb views. At point 10, we preferred to take a detour, but apart from that, the GPS track guided us well
a big THANK YOU for this magnificent hike

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phildaix
phildaix

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 13, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A beautiful walk indeed, with magnificent views.
one small comment: at point 10, there is no path to cut across the bend (it appears on the IGN map, but not on Google Maps/satellite and therefore not in reality). So continue along the track and turn right to rejoin the route, still on a wide track.

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