From Vernou-sur-Seine to Fontainebleau via Saint-Mamès and Thomery

Starting point and access: Vernou-sur-Seine railway station.
- Transilien – Line R, on the section between Melun and Montereau via Héricy.
Take the only exit, on the side of platform 1, the one for the Melun to Montereau direction (if arriving from the opposite direction, platform 2, cross the tracks carefully using the crossing at the rear of the train).

No signposting

(S) With your back to the station, follow the road to the left as it rises slightly. Immediately ignore a red and white arrow indicating you should take the^first right and, at the next junction, go straight on into Chemin de Nanchon (labelled ‘Rue’ on the IGN map; a cul-de-sac). At the end, go past a metal barrier and continue along a path between the railway fence and an unfenced field. Turn right along the path and you’ll come to a junction.

Red and white + yellow markings

(1) Turn left and follow the^GR®®2along a farm track. Ignore a turn-off on the right (not shown on the map), walk past a small house on your left, rejoin the tarmac road and walk past the cemetery on your right. Note an old tuff quarry on the right and continue along the small road running alongside the railway line. After about 400 m, cross the bridge over the railway line and head down a fairly steep slope. At the Stop sign, turn sharply right and continue down a gentler slope.

(2) At the traffic lights (with the church opposite on the left), follow the D40 to the right towards Pamfou. Pass under the railway bridge and immediately turn left onto Rue du Panorama. After a few dozen metres, climb a steep flight of steps on the left. At the top, rejoin the road, follow it to the left and climb steadily (viewpoint over the Seine).

(3) When the road bends sharply to the right, continue straight on along Chemin des Herces and pass through a metal gate. Stay on this flat, shaded path, heading west, and ignore any side paths. Note the beautiful views of the Seine below on the left from time to time.

(4) At the foot of an electricity pylon, turn left and head downhill for a short distance. Then turn right (railing, panoramic view) and continue westwards along a footpath. Cross a bamboo grove and continue between two fences (view of Saint-Mammès). Pass through a metal gate, turn right and rejoin the tarmac road. Pass under a power line and go round a chapel with a blue dome on the right.

Yellow markings

(5) At the three-way junction, turn left downhill (let the^GR®® head off to the right). At the junction that appears immediately, first turn right then left, pass under the power line again and leave some small blocks of flats on your right. At the Stop sign, turn slightly left and cross the bridge over the railway line. Cross Rue Frédéric Mistral on the left-hand side and pass a modern church on your right.

No signposting

At the traffic lights, head down the Côte de Saint-Mammès to the left, preferably on the pavement on the right-hand side. At the bottom, follow the D40E2 to the right and cross the bridge over the Seine.

Yellow signposting

(6) On the opposite bank (with the Romanesque church of Saint-Mammès opposite), turn right and walk down to the riverbank. Then climb a flight of steps and go round the river landing stage on the left. Continue straight ahead along the quay. At the end, cross a car park (cedar trees).

No signposting

(7) Cross the Loing via the footbridge. On the other side, follow the path to the right. After a moored barge, the path gives way to a footpath that winds its way as close as possible to the river (damp sections; in the event of high water, see an alternative route in the practical information). You’ll come to a wide path again and, when it bends to the left, carry on straight ahead along a footpath running as close as possible to the river. Cross a stream via a footbridge without a railing and you’ll reach a sort of grassy quay on the banks of the Seine.

(8) Ignore the track leading uphill to the left and carry on straight ahead along a footpath (not shown on the IGN map) that leads into the woodland. You’ll come out onto a very narrow tarmac road and follow it to the right. Pass the Puits de Thomery on your left and go under the footbridge of the Voulzie aqueduct. Continue along the Seine on the narrow tarmac road. At the Stop sign, turn left. At the three-way junction that appears immediately afterwards, head up Rue de Bellevue on the left. When you reach the ‘Le Lavoir’ hall, do take a short detour into the square on the left to enjoy a beautiful panoramic view.

Yellow signposting

(9) Then turn sharply right onto Chemin du Lavoir (Chemin des Grands Clots, which continues from here, is also signposted at this point). Carry straight on along a gravel path between two garden walls (the old vineyard walls). Ignore a turn-off on the left; the gravel gives way to a grassy path. Still between the two walls, first turn right then left and you’ll reach a junction.

(10) Turn left here and head slightly uphill. You’ll come out onto a street; follow it straight on. At the end, first turn left then right towards the fitness trail and walk along a wide grassy path. At a sort of crossroads, turn right. Follow a long grassy path that winds its way between two vineyard walls.

(11) At the end, cross the road at the pedestrian crossing and follow it to the right downhill. At the junction, go straight on and pass in front of the town hall. At the bottom of the slope, turn left towards the church.

(12) Walk round the church on the left and cross its cobbled forecourt. At the corner by a chemist’s, turn left into Rue de Seine.

No signposting

At the end, carry on straight ahead to the banks of the Seine (ignore a yellow arrow directing you to follow a street to the left).

(13) Then turn left and follow a footpath running as close as possible to the river (the path passes through private property – please follow the signs). Pass through several small gates (close them behind you). Cross a footbridge over a branch of the river (the metal truss looks rather flimsy, so groups should ensure they cross in single file).

Yellow markings

At a junction (forest gate on the left), rejoin the markings and continue straight ahead along the footpath. Stay along the banks of the Seine, ignoring a turn-off to the left. You’ll come out onto a paved area; cross it, heading diagonally upwards to the left (Port d’Effondré, information board).

(14) Continue along Rue du Général Ségur. Cross Rue Thiers on the left-hand side and carry on along the street marked as a dead end. At the entrance to a private property, turn left into Allée du Pavé du Prince. Ignore a turning on the left and, after No. 7, continue along a paved path uphill. Pass through a forest gate and continue along the cobbled path, which is now called Route du Prince (sign typical of the Fontainebleau State Forest). Keep going straight on, uphill, and ignore all side paths.

No signposting

(15) Cross the D137 (take care – busy road) then take the^first path on the right, still following the Route du Prince. After passing a large cross, cross another road (take care – limited visibility on the right) and continue straight ahead between plots nos. 19 and 17. For nearly 2 km, stay on the Route du Prince, following the slopes of Mont Andart on your right, and go straight on (west) at every junction.

(16) At the T-junction at the bottom of a descent, turn right. Stay on the edge of the forest on your right and follow the railway line below on your left. When you reach a bridge over the railway line, cross the D137 and continue straight ahead, keeping slightly to the right (forest gate). Follow the Chemin rural de Nemours, which is bordered by a fence on the left-hand side. Ignore a turning on the right, pass through a forest gate and continue down a sloping road.

(17) At the roundabout, turn left and go under the railway viaduct (caution: poor visibility here; it is best to use the cycle path). Then turn right and walk alongside the viaduct on your right.

Green and white markings

At the next roundabout, take the^second street on the left, towards the station. Head uphill and ignore all turn-offs on the left. At the top, at a roundabout, veer right to reach Fontainebleau-Avon station (E) straight away.

To return home:
- Transilien – Line R, towards Paris-Lyon, Montargis or Montereau.

Train timetables: see the Transilien website.

For motorists:
The two stations are on different sections of the same line. There are therefore two options:
With a single vehicle – Park in the car park at one of the two stations and take a one-way or return journey by train, with a change at Montereau or Melun.
With at least two vehicles – Leave one vehicle at each of the two car parks.

Hiking boots are required.

No water points marked on the route. Bars and shops in Saint-Mammès, between (6) and (7), Thomery (12) and near Fontainebleau-Avon station (E).

A 1:25,000 map is required (at the very least, the one accompanying this description).

Recommendation:
Between points (12) and (14), the route crosses private property under a right of way. Please follow the instructions: stay on the path, keep dogs on a lead, and do not picnic on the premises.

Alternatives in the event of the Seine rising:
After Saint-Mammès – After the footbridge over the Loing (7), follow the signposted path to the left (cycle signs). At the junction (marker 46), turn right following the yellow markings. Rejoin the main route at (8).
After Thomery – At the end of Rue de Seine, just before (13), turn left onto Rue des Bains du Roy (yellow markings). Then ignore the yellow arrow directing you to the banks of the Seine on the right. At the T-junction, turn right onto Rue Sadi Carnot. Rejoin the main route at Port d’Effondré (14). If you have already set off along the right of way (13) and find the path flooded along the way (which may happen shortly before (14)), two paths on the left (or on the right if you have been forced to turn back) will take you back to either Rue des Bains du Roy or Rue Sadi Carnot.

Walk completed by the author on 21 January 2021.

- Former tuff quarry.
- Church of La Celle-sur-Seine (12th–15th centuries) (2).
- Beautiful panoramic views over the Seine valley between (3) and (5).
- Former Orthodox chapel (5).
- Romanesque Church of Saint-Mamès (11th–12th centuries) (7), one of the oldest churches in the Île-de-France region.
- Beautiful view from the Square de Bellevue (9).
- Old vine-covered walls between (9) and (11).
- Beautiful houses in Thomery, between (11) and (14).
- Thomery Church (13th century) (12).
- A pleasant forest walk between (15) and (16).