How to tackle a 1,500-metre climb in the Chaîne des Puys

How do you cover a bit over 1,500 metres of elevation gain in the Chaîne des Puys, which, to true mountaineers, are nothing more than hills? By walking just over 30 km from the Louchadière hikers’ car park to the Col de Ceyssat, passing via the summits of eight puys: Louchadière, Jume, Coquille, Gouttes, Goules, Pariou, Cliersou and Dôme. This is therefore a one-way hike, requiring you to leave a vehicle at the Col de Ceyssat before returning to the starting car park. The route is challenging due to its length and elevation gain, but presents no technical difficulties. Some sections on unmarked forest paths require the use of the Visorando app. It would be unwise to get lost over such a long distance.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 19.83 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 13h 40 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 5,236 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 4,675 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 4,760 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 2,949 ft

Description of the walk

Park in the hikers’ car park at the foot of the Puy de Louchadière, accessible from the D943 via the D576 towards Beauregard.

(S) Head towards the southern corner of the car park and take the path heading south-east, which runs parallel to the road at the very start (sign: ‘No vehicles’). Further on, at the junction with another path, carry straight on.

(1) At the next junction, by the “945m” marker, turn left towards the Puy de Louchadière. You will soon enter a beech forest. Look out for yellow markings; follow these carefully all the way to the summit of the Puy. Further on, a small yellow PR® sign indicates that you should turn left (contrary to the Yellow Cross markings for the other two paths, which are not shown on the maps). A little further on, ignore a path on the right (marked with a Yellow Cross) and you’ll come to a junction with an inconspicuous path on the left, near an iron post bearing a very faded green inscription reading ‘Aller’.

(2) Follow this path to the left; it is poorly marked in places, winding in switchbacks or cutting straight up the slope where possible (check your GPS position regularly). Continue climbing, ignoring any paths to the left further on. Higher up, the path is better defined. At the summit, you ’ll be rewarded with the rather fine view offered by the Puy de la Louchadière, which is otherwise heavily wooded.

(3) The descent follows a path heading generally south; check your position from time to time using the app’s GPS. Further down, you’ll reach the junction you passed on the way up, at the iron post.

(2) Continue straight on for a few metres following the yellow markings, then immediately leave the marked path to follow the track on the left (marked with a Yellow Cross). Although the path is not signposted, it is clearly marked. Further down, ignore a forest track on your right near a young fir plantation, then emerge from the forest. Walk alongside a meadow on your right to reach a wide track.

(4) Turn left and carry on straight ahead along this path. Pass the “Forêt de Beauregard” sign and continue through a mix of fir and beech woodland. At a Fork in the road, keep right (yellow markings).

(5) At the next fork in the road, ignore the yellow-marked PR® path on the left and keep right, following the direction of the “Puys de Jumes et de la Coquille” route (yellow sign). Further on, ignore a path on the right where there is a sign prohibiting mountain bikes.

(6) At the next junction, join the GR®441 and follow it to the right, also following the yellow markings and the sign for “Puy de Jumes” (yellow sign). The path climbs steeply and reaches the edge of the crater. Continue to the left to go round the crater, through a wood of hornbeams. Pass a small yellow sign indicating the altitude of Puy de Jumes as 1,161 m.

(7) To the south of the crater, continue westwards along the crater’s rim to quickly reach an open clearing, which offers a fine view from the highest point of the Puy de Jumes.

(8) Retrace your steps.

(7) Carry on to the right along the signposted path. This path, which features numerous steps, descends and then climbs again to reach the sign indicating an altitude of 1,152 m at Puy de la Coquille. Continue along the path, which heads south.

(9) Further on, turn right onto a path that leads to a promontory at the summit of the Puy de la Coquille, which offers a beautiful view.

(10) Retrace your steps.

(9) Turn right onto the signposted path, which descends steeply.

(11) At the first junction, continue to the left (GR®) then, at the junction a few metres further on, at the signpost marked 1022 m, continue left again towards “Bois de Clermont”. At the next junction, ignore the path straight ahead and follow the bend to the right. The path then bends left to go round the Puy de Clermont. You’ll reach the “Bois de Clermont” signpost. Carry on to the left towards the Puy Chopine. About fifty metres further on, ignore a path on the left and you’ll reach a junction opposite the “Forêt de Fontêtes” sign.

(12) Continue along the GR® marked path to the right. At the next junction, at the “Puy Chopine” signpost, head up to the left towards the Puy des Gouttes. Walk through a beech forest, then follow the path—which has been constructed to minimise erosion—and cross a stile. Further up, you’ll reach the edge of the Puy des Gouttes crater.

(13) Walk round the crater along the path, which offers sweeping views, then continue along the path that descends steeply through a beautiful beech forest. Make sure you follow the GR® signposts. At the bottom, head diagonally left and then go through a stile at the signpost marked 969 m.

(14) On the other side, continue to the right towards the Puy de Chaumont. At a Fork in the road shortly afterwards, at the “Puy de Chaumont” marker, turn left and leave the GR® markings. Follow this path, ignoring the few side paths to the left or right. Pass the “Forêt de Chanat” sign and you’ll cometo the D559 road.

(15) Continue along the path opposite. At the four-way junction, carry on straight ahead. At the T-junction, turn right and ignore a grassy path on the right. You’ll reach a crossroads near the D977, which runs to the right and is quite noisy.

(16) Keep to the left. The track soon bends left, heading north. At the junction, leave the track and follow the path on the right. This path, which follows the valley floor, is not signposted but is clearly visible. Stay in the valley floor, ignoring the few side paths. You’ll reach a junction with a track at a yellow sign.

(17) Take the path on the right which climbs to the summit of the Puy des Goules.

(18) At the top, you’ll find further signposts; follow the direction ‘Tour du cratère’. There’s a clear view. This circular walk takes you back to the same signposts.

(18) Then retrace your steps along the route you took on the way up to head back down.

(17) Carry on to the right. Leave the path leading up to the Grotte du Sarcoui on your left. Further on, go through a gate and past a sign saying “Montgoulède, no groups or mountain bikes allowed”, until you reach a junction.

(19) Turn left. At the next junction, keep to the right. You’ll reach a junction where several paths meet, marked by directional signs. Follow the wide path to the right towards the Parking des Goules, passing through an area with timber storage and forestry buildings. Please note: before reaching the D977, make sure you turn right onto the path leading to the car park. Continue across the car park towards the west until you reach the edge of the D977 at the pedestrian crossing and a yellow signpost marked “Parking des Goules”.

(20) Head towards the Col de Ceyssat, carefully crossing the D997 to take the path opposite. Turn sharply right, then left, and look out for another signpost marked “Chemin du Pariou”. Continue to the right, through the woodland. Further on, you’ll reach a junction at a signpost.

(21) Turn left towards the summit of Puy Pariou and reach the edge of the crater. Unobstructed view.

(22) Turn left onto the marked path to go round the crater and reach the top of the long flight of steps. Take these to descend from the Pariou.

(23) At the bottom, at the junction of the paths, turn right. About 150 metres further on, turn left onto a path; a sign points to the Cliersou Caves.

(24) Further up, at a small clearing, take the path on the right towards the caves and the summit of Cliersou. It is a steep path leading to the caves.

(25) Walk past the caves and continue along the easier path which climbs to the summit of the puy.

(26) Carry on along the path, which is circular and takes you back to the caves.

(25) Head back down via the same route you took on the way up.

(24) Carry on to the right, along a steep path which, in places, is nothing more than a flow of pozzolan. Pass through the pass between the Grand and Petit Knoll. Further on, pass below the Petit Knoll caves and arrive at a junction of paths.

(27) Turn right. At the junction further down, look for the GR®4 and 441 signposts and turn left. Following the signposts, you’ll reach the crossroads of paths and the GR® du Traversin (there’s a fountain here, but it’s only open in summer).

(28) Turn right and, shortly afterwards, look out for the GR®441 signpost as well as a sign for the Chemin des Chêvres, which you’ll follow to climb to the summit of the Puy de Dôme. It passes between the Creux de la Berte and the Nid de la Poule and, further on, is laid out as a flight of steps. You’ll reach the Panoramique des Dômes railway line and the old road.

(29) Follow it to the left. Further on, leave the road and continue along the tarmac path to the right, which soon leads to the summit of the Puy de Dôme. Just before reaching the Panoramique station, temporarily leave the GR® markings to take a circular route around the summit of the Puy. Take the steps leading up to the right. Pass to the right of the Temple of Mercury, look out for the first set of orientation tables, then go round the mast on the right, heading down slightly. You’ll reach the second set of orientation tables. Continue along the tarmac path towards a third set of orientation tables which you can see to the south-west (there are several paths you can take to reach them). Then head to the Panoramique station and climb up to the esplanade, where you’ll find a fourth set of orientation boards.

(30) After descending from the esplanade, leave the summit of the puy by taking the path – which begins with a few steps – on the left, signposted by a yellow ‘Maison de Site’ sign. You will also rejoin the GR® markings. You are now on the Chemin des Muletiers, which descends quite steeply. Information boards are available at certain hairpin bends.

(31) Further down, cross the railway line and continue along the path opposite to reach the Col de Ceyssat and the car park for your return journey (E).

Waypoints

  1. S : mi 0 - alt. 2,949 ft - Louchadière hikers’ car park
  2. 1 : mi 0.7 - alt. 3,094 ft - Path junction
  3. 2 : mi 1.24 - alt. 3,406 ft - Louchadière Circular Loop
  4. 3 : mi 1.71 - alt. 3,911 ft - Summit - Puy de Louchadière
  5. 4 : mi 3.18 - alt. 3,104 ft - Path junction
  6. 5 : mi 3.99 - alt. 3,232 ft - Path junction
  7. 6 : mi 4.48 - alt. 3,376 ft - Junction of track and footpath
  8. 7 : mi 5 - alt. 3,783 ft - Return journey
  9. 8 : mi 5.05 - alt. 3,806 ft - Summit - Puy de Jumes
  10. 9 : mi 5.53 - alt. 3,743 ft - Return journey
  11. 10 : mi 5.59 - alt. 3,773 ft - Summit - Puy de la Coquille
  12. 11 : mi 6.14 - alt. 3,343 ft - Path junction
  13. 12 : mi 6.86 - alt. 3,356 ft - Path junction
  14. 13 : mi 7.57 - alt. 3,632 ft - Summit - Puy des Gouttes
  15. 14 : mi 8.33 - alt. 3,186 ft - Path junction
  16. 15 : mi 8.98 - alt. 3,143 ft - road crossing
  17. 16 : mi 9.64 - alt. 3,205 ft - Path junction
  18. 17 : mi 10.32 - alt. 3,465 ft - Return journey
  19. 18 : mi 10.51 - alt. 3,701 ft - Summit - Puy des Goules
  20. 19 : mi 11.68 - alt. 3,225 ft - Path junction
  21. 20 : mi 12.38 - alt. 3,212 ft - Les Goules car park – Crossing the D977
  22. 21 : mi 12.93 - alt. 3,353 ft - Trail junction
  23. 22 : mi 13.87 - alt. 3,809 ft - Summit - Puy Pariou
  24. 23 : mi 14.43 - alt. 3,556 ft - Path junction
  25. 24 : mi 14.89 - alt. 3,645 ft - Return trip
  26. 25 : mi 15.09 - alt. 3,862 ft - Caves – Clersiou Circular Loop
  27. 26 : mi 15.21 - alt. 3,927 ft - Summit - Le Cliersou
  28. 27 : mi 16.06 - alt. 3,704 ft - Trail junction
  29. 28 : mi 16.63 - alt. 3,684 ft - Path junction
  30. 29 : mi 17.48 - alt. 4,416 ft - Old road
  31. 30 : mi 18.56 - alt. 4,642 ft - Puy de Dôme
  32. 31 : mi 19.39 - alt. 3,802 ft - Railway line crossing
  33. E : mi 19.83 - alt. 3,510 ft - Car park - Le col de Ceyssat

Notes

Difficulty: Very Difficult due to its length and elevation gain, but with no technical difficulties. Standard mountain hiking kit; walking poles are useful on certain sections. Take all the water you need; there are no refreshment points except at Le Traversin (28) in summer only.

The Visorando app or GPS is highly recommended

Worth a visit

You’ll be in the forest for much of the route; the beech woods covering the slopes of the puys are very beautiful. All the summits offer panoramic views of the Chaîne des Puys, although some are more unobstructed than others. There are numerous orientation boards at the summit of the Puy de Dôme.

The Cliersou and Petit Suchet caves are not natural. They were excavated by the Romans, who quarried the trachyte stones used to build the Temple of Mercury at the summit of the Puy de Dôme.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

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