Saint-Michel (Pyrénées-Atlantiques) walks

A sublime hike along part of the historic Way of St James. The weight of history is on your shoulders, but it feels light as the arrival at the Virgin of Orisson is so beautiful. A long climb on unpaved ground with a steady slope through the summer pastures of the Basque Country does not spoil the pleasure, especially as the path is shaded.

The forty-sixth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A physically demanding stage, featuring the ascent of the Pyrenees, splendid views of the surrounding Basque Country if the weather permits, free-roaming herds, a sense of being high up, and the excitement of crossing into Spain. After a long, steep descent, you arrive at the Monastery of Roncesvalles. Given the altitude of the finish point and the cool temperatures, I preferred the monastery dormitory to camping. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a whole new journey begins. The landscapes are no longer the same, nor are the pilgrims. From here on, there are ten times as many people on the paths. Very few French people and lots of Koreans, Australians, Americans, Filipinos and, of course, Spaniards. From here on, you have to speak Spanish or English or use Google Translate. But you always manage to make yourself understood and get by. That’s the magic of the Camino de Santiago.

Step back in time as you discover a unique heritage, walking along centuries-old cobblestones and enjoying the view of the Pyrenees – this is how you’ll discover the authentic town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I visited this town at the end of the final French stage of my Camino de Santiago, after 47 days of walking.

A beautiful stage in the Pyrenean foothills along country lanes.

Even if you are not a pilgrim on your way to Compostela, you will enjoy this pretty little tourist town in Lower Navarre, built on the banks of the Nive de Béhérobie. Let me give you a little guided tour.

A hike around Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to discover a unique feature of Basque architecture in this part of Navarre, then share a "piece of the journey" with pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

From the Nive de Béhérobie in Estérençuby, head up one of its tributaries, the Bihurriko Erreka, to discover the peaceful heights where shepherds and their sheep reign supreme. The Azketa huts are inhabited during the summer grazing season. They shelter beautiful Basque-Béarnaise horned sheep. These pastures are also popular with pottoks, the small Basque horses.

The Muhnoa is a magnificent 360° viewpoint. Most of the climb is on a gentle slope of about 10%. The last 1,400 metres become more difficult, but the reward is at the end.

This lovely circular route starting from Lasse follows part of theGR®10route. The signpost describes this route as offering "Unbeatable views of the citadel of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port".

The Iramendy ridge is bristling with poudingue peaks (conglomerate of round pebbles). From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, this gives it the appearance of a dinosaur. Climbing to the summit via this ridge from north to south requires a bit of scrambling (level 2 lower). The proposed hike climbs to the summit via the other ridge. No difficulties other than the total elevation gain and a few steep sections. Magnificent 360° view of the surrounding mountains.

A lovely walk that takes you through a variety of landscapes, including open tracks, forest, pastures and, finally, vineyards.

You will discover an oak forest and pass through the Irouleguy vineyard with a panoramic view of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and its surroundings. A very pleasant hike that will take you to the Pic de l'Arradoy. The small flower-lined path leading up to it is very pleasant before entering the damp, cool forest. Very pleasant in spring and summer as the hike is mostly shaded.

This route is also known as Elurti. It allows you to discover the Artxuita dolmen from the village of Ascarat.

We thoroughly enjoyed this route, which I "invented" to change my usual habit of climbing almost straight up through the forest and descending almost the same way. A variety of landscapes and atmospheres are on the menu during this fairly leisurely 3½-hour walk. I have fond memories of passing by the stream and its blue-green pools, surrounded by meadows covered with spring flowers. It's as romantic as you could wish for. In short, you want to take your time here, so those who are keen on sporting achievements should refrain!

The Urkulu Trophy: this imposing stone tower is thought to have been built in Roman times to intimidate invaders of the powerful Roman army... even though it is located off the route from Bordeaux to Astorga via Pamplona.