The Orgues de Valsenestre and return via the Combe Oursière

Hike in several stages:
- The Orgues de Valsenestre (or "great library"), a geological curiosity with a multitude of perfectly aligned vertical strata.
- The Col de Côte Belle with a panoramic view of the Font Turbat valley.
- Return via the balcony path to the small suspended valley of Combe Oursière.
- Finally, you cross a forest of "crooked" larch trees (larch trees deformed by the weight of snow).
... Not forgetting the Hobbit house

Technical sheet

2549550
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 12.84 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 50 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Vertical gain: + 1,107 m
  • ↘
    Vertical drop: - 1,100 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,289 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,292 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Park in the car park on the right before entering the hamlet of Valsenestre.

(S/E) Head east and follow theGR®54B(red and white markings) towards the Col de la Muzelle: this is a wide path that runs alongside the Béranger torrent.

(1) At the intersection, continue straight ahead along the torrent.

(2) Cross the Béranger torrent.

(3) At the fork, take theGR®54on the right towards Col de Côte Belle. The slope quickly becomes steeper and the path winds upwards.

(4) Turn right at the hairpin bend and make a long traverse in a south-westerly direction. Then continue climbing in zigzags.

(5) At the end of a hairpin bend to the right, make a short detour to the left to the Orgues de Valsenestre: a magical place where you can enjoy different views.

(5) Continue south-west on theGR®54.

(6) At the intersection, turn sharply left, still following theGR®, and you will soon reach the Col de Côte Belle.

(7) Descend via the same path to the previous intersection (located at a hairpin bend).

(6) Leave theGR®54and continue straight ahead (west-southwest). Descend into a grassy, steep area where there are several paths but no single, well-marked trail. At the bottom, look for the balcony trail coming from Combe Oursière: head in that direction (it remains visible at all times). At the bottom of the grassy area, you will arrive at the bottom of the Cirque du Pic de Valsenestre and cross small streams (dry in summer).

(8) Just before the streams enter a gorge, follow a balcony path to the north-west (do not take the path on the left that climbs towards the Pic de Valsenestre). Continue north-north-west and ignore the paths on the right. Go around the Côte Dure on the right, head south-east and cross a forest of larch trees.

(9) At the intersection, continue straight ahead towards the Cabane de la Combe Oursière.

(10) Retrace your steps.

(9) At the intersection, turn left and start descending into the valley again. The path is well marked. Ignore a path on the left and follow several switchbacks. After going around a peak, descend (east-northeast) into the Bois du Bot.

(1) Return to theGR® and follow it to the left, along the stream. This will take you back to the car park where you started (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,292 m - Car park at the entrance to Valsenestre
  2. 1 : km 1.19 - alt. 1,417 m - Crossroads of the circular
  3. 2 : km 1.56 - alt. 1,455 m - Torrent du Béranger
  4. 3 : km 1.84 - alt. 1,493 m - Fourche
  5. 4 : km 3.09 - alt. 1,788 m - Hairpin bend
  6. 5 : km 5.09 - alt. 2,170 m - The Orgues de Valsenestre
  7. 6 : km 5.5 - alt. 2,221 m - Côte Belle
  8. 7 : km 5.87 - alt. 2,289 m - Col de Côte Belle
  9. 8 : km 6.79 - alt. 2,033 m - Balcony trail
  10. 9 : km 8.17 - alt. 2,016 m - Intersection
  11. 10 : km 8.46 - alt. 2,044 m - Cabane de la Combe Oursière
  12. S/E : km 12.84 - alt. 1,292 m - Car park at the entrance to Valsenestre

Practical information

Please note that part of this hike is off-trail in a grassy and steep area
Avoid this section in wet weather or when the snow is melting.

Excerpt from the Écrins National Park website:
The Valsenestre organ pipes
A true geological phenomenon, the "grandes orgues" (great organs), also known as "la grande bibliothèque" (the great library), were formed during the genesis of the Alps. They are made up of thin sheets of grey-blue limestone and softer, more eroded schistose marl. A network of cracks perpendicular to the layers cuts the slabs into remarkable columns.

"Crooked" larch trees
Beautiful crooked larch trees can be seen from the trail. In winter, in steep areas, the snow cover exerts pressure on the base of the tree trunks. The curved shape of the larch tree is evidence of its adaptation to the weight of the snow. In steep areas, however, this morphological adaptation makes them somewhat fragile. Larches are "pioneer" trees in the mountains. They can colonise hostile environments such as scree and debris cones. They prepare the way for the future forest.

The "Combe des Ours"
The name "Combe Oursière" refers to the presence of bears in the valley. In 1800, 26 to 30 bears still lived in Oisans and the surrounding area. The last known bears around Valsenestre are said to have taken refuge in the last century near La Morte and Lavaldens, and the last of them is said to have been shot above Livet. In the Alps, the last reliable sighting of a bear dates back to 1937 and is said to have been in the Vercors.

You are hiking in the heart of the Écrins National Park.

The Écrins massif is an exceptional area, open to all, with a rare natural, cultural and landscape heritage. To protect these treasures, the heart of the park is marked by blue, white and red flags, where regulations must be observed. Please familiarise yourself with these rules when planning your hike in order to preserve this collective asset, at https://www.ecrins-parcnational.fr.

In the nearby area

Valsenestre is an ideal starting point for several hikes.

We would like to thank the Écrins Park staff for maintaining the trails, including those that are less frequented, such as the Combe Oursière trail

Excerpt from the Écrins National Park documentation:
"In the 19th century, the hamlet of Valsenestre had a population of around 100. The main activity was livestock farming. In 1851, the opening of a marble quarry at the bottom of the valley leading up to the Col de la Muzelle was a godsend for the village, which welcomed the quarry workers and benefited from the improvement of the road. Marble production ceased in 1905. Until 1926, the laughter and cries of children still echoed through the village: the school had around thirty pupils at that time!

Restored village
Valsenestre is a beautifully restored hamlet now consisting of second homes. The road is not cleared of snow in winter. The village, with a population of around 100, had its own school (now converted into a stopover lodge), which remained open until 1936. It was completely buried by an avalanche in the 19th century. The main activity remained livestock farming, but the opening of a marble quarry in 1840 provided additional income for workers living in the village. The last permanent resident left Valsenestre in 1959

 Always stay careful and alert while following a route. Visorando and the author of this walk cannot be held responsible in the event of an accident during this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 15 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.7 / 5
Clarity of route map
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
User 22523288

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 08, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A very pretty route, sometimes high up in the air, towards La Combe. The return via La Combe Oursiere is tricky in places. You really need to be sure-footed and try to avoid the schistose sections as much as possible.
The junction with the balcony path towards the Combe was not easy to find. We had to scramble through the green alders and tall grass, like wild boars.
Be careful before the Côte dure, as the balcony path has partially collapsed... Take care.

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Marie VV
Marie VV
• Last modified:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Route only accessible via the GR trail.
The off-trail section is challenging for some people, given the steep gradient.
The Côte Dure trail is damaged in places due to rockfalls, so you need to be very careful in these areas.
Otherwise, it is a very beautiful hike. The weather was perfect. The Valsenestre rock formations are magnificent and surprise hikers as they come around a bend.

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Fredo 38
Fredo 38

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Frequented on the Valsenestre side. Deserted on Combe Oursiere. Take care when crossing the schist scree to reach the Combe Oursiere balcony trail. Risk of slipping. It is better to descend into the grassy area to cross lower down. Tall grass on the descent.
Be careful not to miss the path below the Combe Oursiere hut when you reach the stream bed.
Do not enter the stream. The path is in the grass on the right. Cairn. No worries if you follow the GPS track.
Superb circular! Thank you

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Louis-Michel Duhen
Louis-Michel Duhen

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A very beautiful hike done in the opposite direction with a bivouac in the cabin (note: no water within 45 minutes). The climb up the pass is not easy this year as there is abundant grass. Check the GPX track frequently. Many thanks for this magnificent circular with the discovery of the Valsenestre organ pipes.

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Francis38isere
Francis38isere

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Jul 28, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Well described and precise; a lovely outing with a magnificent geological destination.
The flock of sheep was safely at the pass with its sheepdog and shepherd, but without any difficulty.
Perfect weather to enjoy the site.

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chabertberruyer
chabertberruyer

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 27, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

Hiking in snow and ice on a slightly sloping trail towards the Valsenestre rock formations. Be very careful; slipping is prohibited.
White cap to do
Tricky off-trail descent with 5 cm of snow
Balcony trail through Combe Oursière with a still tricky 3/4 m passage following a rockslide and several fairly large torrents to cross following the melting of the first snows
Beautiful autumn colours

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Michel Rando Nature
Michel Rando Nature

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 24, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A particularly pleasant hike up to Les Orgues. I recommend this site for its uniqueness and geological richness. At the pass, there were a few sheepdogs and a lovely flock of sheep. I had no problems with the sheepdogs, who came over to greet me. On the way back, starting from the pass, I tried to take the marked route that joins the Combe de l'Oursière trail, but I gave up. It was too steep for me. I came back down the same way.

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Charlie 38
Charlie 38

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Sep 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : Yes

Very beautiful hike.
The organ pipes are truly amazing, well worth the detour.
Nothing special, the path is well marked.

No particular difficulties.

Worth doing again in autumn, the scenery around the Oursière hut must be lovely.

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sempervivum
sempervivum

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Sep 03, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A hike with two very different atmospheres. It starts with a well-marked path leading to the impressive rock formations that attract a few hikers (photographers should come in the afternoon for the best light), then a detour to Bonnet Blanc for the view. I didn't have the pleasure of meeting the two sheepdogs named Spirit and Reflex during the alpine grazing season. Crossing off the trail, even in ideal conditions, requires caution. When the torrents are low, you can stray from the GPS track and descend completely down the grassy slope to avoid crossing the scree. And then a wild atmosphere, a beautiful maple forest, deserted except for a flock of ptarmigans. To be done again...

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smashdc
smashdc
• Last modified:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Aug 30, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

i encountered a maximum of 20 people, the vast majority of whom were backpacking.
In light of the other comments (and also with my planned 300 km walk), I do not recommend going off-trail (I hadn't seen that there was any off-trail walking).
35% slopes. Even zigzagging, it's not great.
No path, so the footing is always unstable (even if it is doable), but it will still be quite physically demanding. Allow for 400 m of zigzags. On top of that, it was very wet. Lots of shrubs. The descent via the same route is more beautiful in my opinion (I left early).
Otherwise, the climb is gradual: 13% at the start and then around 17%.
You can do "the tour of the organ pipes" at the crossed-out cross (hiking symbol). Be careful, though.

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JCParavy
JCParavy

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Sep 03, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

Climbed Côte Belle on Sunday, choosing the Valsenestre side and therefore following the guidebook fairly closely (for once).
It was a pleasant climb along a well-marked and well-maintained trail, with a visit to the organ pipes (Bibliothèque) along the way.
At the pass, instead of continuing on to Pic de Valsenestre, I visited the surrounding hills: you really must climb to the summit of Bonnet Banc, listed at 2388m on IGN maps, to admire the spiky ridge.
For the descent, the off-trail section is fine when it's dry, and for crossing the torrents of the Combe des Echarennes, a cairn on the left bank of the last one marks the starting point of the connection to the trail that leads to Côte Dure and Combe Oursière. After a short climb, the passage is a little exposed, but fortunately the trail is comfortable.
There is a lot of damage to the trail caused by wild boars in Combe Oursière.
This circular is highly recommended.
I'm adding a few photos.

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Tatiana 73
Tatiana 73

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : May 16, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

We did not encounter anyone during this hike.
The way there is uphill but not particularly difficult.
The organ pipes are simply magnificent. Unsettling but breathtaking.
The difficulty lies in the descent straight down the slope. You need to be sure-footed, make sure it's not too muddy (due to rain and snowmelt) and check the height of the two streams you have to cross.
I highly recommend this beautiful hike. It is isolated from the world due to its enclosed valley.

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meego38
meego38

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Sep 05, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

The hike starts at 8:30 a.m. and arrives at the Col de Côte Belle at 11:00 a.m. The path is pleasant and the slope is steady. You can continue the climb up Bonnet Blanc (100m elevation gain in less than 20 minutes) for an exceptional panorama if, like us, you are lucky enough to have a clear view. The path is good and well marked, and the view is breathtaking.

This is the second time I've climbed the Orgues de Valsenestre, and it's always a wonder to see the beauty of this site. Highly recommended.

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andresouvignet
andresouvignet

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of walk : Jul 14, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

The return via Combe Oursière is off-trail until you cross the ravines at around 2,040 metres, before rejoining the trail towards Côte Dure. This descent is very steep (from 2,200 metres to around 2,040 metres) and takes place on grassy slopes, which should be avoided at all costs if wet or if the grass is dry (not green)

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DICHAMPT
DICHAMPT

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 12, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Please note that the Côte Belle trail will be closed for maintenance until 31/10/19.
The descent from the meadow is very steep... Take care! After this, when you return to the path, there are a few sections (1-2 steps) where the path has subsided.
A varied and very pleasant walk.

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