Important preliminary note: While the climb to the summit of Ténibre is already a great achievement in itself (nearly 2,000 metres of elevation gain over ten kilometres and an aerial finish), the descent to the Varicles Lakes and the Ténibre plateau, which is largely off-trail trekking, will require all your energy and attention. To reduce the difficulty, you have two options:
complete the circular in two days, staying overnight at the Rabuons refuge,
- take the path in the opposite direction once you reach the summit of Mont Ténibre, to avoid the more challenging descent to the Varicles Lakes.
Park near marker 100 on Boulevard Issautier. You can easily park in the car park after the bridge, where there are plenty of spaces available.
(S/E) Head south-east parallel to the Tinée on its right bank, following the directions for Lac de Rabuons and Ténibre indicated at the first marker.
Note: The climb to the energy trail at marker 103 is quite steep, so take advantage of the forest and its shade to pick up the pace gradually.
Reach the first crossroads at marker 101.
(1) Keep heading towards Lac de Rabuons and you will soon come to signpost 102.
(2) Ignore the sign for Lac Pétrus to the north and continue east towards Rabuons. You will reach marker 103 at the famous Chemin de l'Énergie.
(3) Head east, still towards Lac de Rabuous. The path becomes less steep here and you will see the Rabuons refuge and the EDF facilities approaching in the distance. Arrive at marker 104.
(4) Continue towards the lake and the refuge until you reach them.
(5) Take advantage of the lakeside to take a short break. Then head north, skirting around the two lakes with the help of the cairns, which are easy to spot, because at the EDF access pipe, the path disappears and the IGN map no longer shows a route. Then head for marker 106.
(6) Continue north to reach the two lakes, Chaffour and Cimon.
(7) Continue to follow the cairns. The passage here, just before you reach Lac de la Montagnette, is through scree where the cairns are not necessarily easy to see at first glance. Keep heading towards Pas de Rabuons, just opposite you. You will find the path marked again on the IGN map to reach marker 107 at Pas de Rabuons.
(8) From here, the path is marked with easy-to-spot red circles. Pay close attention to where you put your feet and keep in mind that you will most likely need to use your hands on two or three slightly tricky and exposed sections. However, nothing that requires climbing equipment. You will soon see two crosses, the first made of metal and the second of wood, at the summit of Ténibre.
Enjoy the incredible view from the summit, with Lake Rabuons to the south-east and Lake Fer to the south-west.
Please note: from here, the descent to Plan de Ténibre is more like trekking than hiking. The path (except at the beginning) is neither visible nor marked. You will need to follow the numerous cairns to reach your destination, especially as they are often difficult to see in this rocky environment. I would only recommend this side of the circular to experienced mountaineers and, needless to say, you will need good footwear to cross the numerous scree slopes.
(9) Start by following the red markings that brought you here, which you will quickly see below once you reach the wooden cross. Some passages here will also require the use of your hands, so be careful.
(10) This is where you will have to leave the red markings, which indicate the direction of Testa Rossa, and take the small corridor descending to the left towards the south-west. Cross the scree slope, following the cairns and keeping a general westerly direction. You will reach a solitary rocky peak.
(11) Follow the cairns indicating to go around it on the right. The Ténibre lakes are visible at the far end and the Varicles lakes below. The difference in altitude is quite significant here, so be careful. Reach the Varicles lakes.
(12) Cross the stream that connects them and follow the larger one to the south-west, still following the cairns. You will soon arrive at Plan de Ténibre and its barracks at marker 111 on the Chemin de l'Énergie.
(13) Head back up towards Vens, then go through two tunnels to reach marker 112.
(14) Head south towards Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée. Continue to the crossroads at marker 109.
(15) Continue south, pass marker 108, and further down you will find the Ténibre torrent and the first houses. Cross the small bridge and return to the car park (S/E) a few metres further down the boulevard.
You are in the Mercantour National Park, where there are regulations to be observed, with fines of up to €1,500 for non-compliance. See practical information.