The Mont Ténibre circular from Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée

A long and demanding circular in the Mercantour National Park that will first take you to Lac de Rabuons, the largest lake in the Alpes-Maritimes, which is worth the detour in itself, before climbing Mont Ténibre, the highest peak in the Tinée at 3,031 metres.
You are in the Mercantour National Park, where there are regulations to be observed, with fines of up to €1,500 for non-compliance. See practical information.
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Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 19.98 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 8 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,980 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,974 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 3,022 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,143 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Important preliminary note: While the climb to the summit of Ténibre is already a great achievement in itself (nearly 2,000 metres of elevation gain over ten kilometres and an aerial finish), the descent to the Varicles Lakes and the Ténibre plateau, which is largely off-trail trekking, will require all your energy and attention. To reduce the difficulty, you have two options:
complete the circular in two days, staying overnight at the Rabuons refuge,
- take the path in the opposite direction once you reach the summit of Mont Ténibre, to avoid the more challenging descent to the Varicles Lakes.

Park near marker 100 on Boulevard Issautier. You can easily park in the car park after the bridge, where there are plenty of spaces available.

(S/E) Head south-east parallel to the Tinée on its right bank, following the directions for Lac de Rabuons and Ténibre indicated at the first marker.
Note: The climb to the energy trail at marker 103 is quite steep, so take advantage of the forest and its shade to pick up the pace gradually.
Reach the first crossroads at marker 101.

(1) Keep heading towards Lac de Rabuons and you will soon come to signpost 102.

(2) Ignore the sign for Lac Pétrus to the north and continue east towards Rabuons. You will reach marker 103 at the famous Chemin de l'Énergie.

(3) Head east, still towards Lac de Rabuous. The path becomes less steep here and you will see the Rabuons refuge and the EDF facilities approaching in the distance. Arrive at marker 104.

(4) Continue towards the lake and the refuge until you reach them.

(5) Take advantage of the lakeside to take a short break. Then head north, skirting around the two lakes with the help of the cairns, which are easy to spot, because at the EDF access pipe, the path disappears and the IGN map no longer shows a route. Then head for marker 106.

(6) Continue north to reach the two lakes, Chaffour and Cimon.

(7) Continue to follow the cairns. The passage here, just before you reach Lac de la Montagnette, is through scree where the cairns are not necessarily easy to see at first glance. Keep heading towards Pas de Rabuons, just opposite you. You will find the path marked again on the IGN map to reach marker 107 at Pas de Rabuons.

(8) From here, the path is marked with easy-to-spot red circles. Pay close attention to where you put your feet and keep in mind that you will most likely need to use your hands on two or three slightly tricky and exposed sections. However, nothing that requires climbing equipment. You will soon see two crosses, the first made of metal and the second of wood, at the summit of Ténibre.
Enjoy the incredible view from the summit, with Lake Rabuons to the south-east and Lake Fer to the south-west.

Please note: from here, the descent to Plan de Ténibre is more like trekking than hiking. The path (except at the beginning) is neither visible nor marked. You will need to follow the numerous cairns to reach your destination, especially as they are often difficult to see in this rocky environment. I would only recommend this side of the circular to experienced mountaineers and, needless to say, you will need good footwear to cross the numerous scree slopes.

(9) Start by following the red markings that brought you here, which you will quickly see below once you reach the wooden cross. Some passages here will also require the use of your hands, so be careful.

(10) This is where you will have to leave the red markings, which indicate the direction of Testa Rossa, and take the small corridor descending to the left towards the south-west. Cross the scree slope, following the cairns and keeping a general westerly direction. You will reach a solitary rocky peak.

(11) Follow the cairns indicating to go around it on the right. The Ténibre lakes are visible at the far end and the Varicles lakes below. The difference in altitude is quite significant here, so be careful. Reach the Varicles lakes.

(12) Cross the stream that connects them and follow the larger one to the south-west, still following the cairns. You will soon arrive at Plan de Ténibre and its barracks at marker 111 on the Chemin de l'Énergie.

(13) Head back up towards Vens, then go through two tunnels to reach marker 112.

(14) Head south towards Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée. Continue to the crossroads at marker 109.

(15) Continue south, pass marker 108, and further down you will find the Ténibre torrent and the first houses. Cross the small bridge and return to the car park (S/E) a few metres further down the boulevard.

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,143 m - Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée car park - Tinée (rivière)
  2. 1 : km 2.67 - alt. 1,712 m - Marker 101
  3. 2 : km 3.28 - alt. 1,824 m - Marker 102
  4. 3 : km 5.62 - alt. 2,381 m - Energy trail
  5. 4 : km 7.54 - alt. 2,437 m - EDF power station
  6. 5 : km 8.23 - alt. 2,502 m - Lac de Rabuons (2500m)
  7. 6 : km 9.28 - alt. 2,535 m - Marker 106
  8. 7 : km 9.94 - alt. 2,645 m - Lac du Cimon and - Lac Chaffour (2640m)
  9. 8 : km 11.07 - alt. 2,867 m - Pas de Rabuons (2872m)
  10. 9 : km 11.65 - alt. 3,016 m - Mont Ténibre (3031m)
  11. 10 : km 11.92 - alt. 2,937 m - End of red markings
  12. 11 : km 12.81 - alt. 2,628 m - Lone rocky peak
  13. 12 : km 13.29 - alt. 2,440 m - Lacs Varicles (2440m)
  14. 13 : km 13.92 - alt. 2,332 m - Map of Ténibre
  15. 14 : km 15.38 - alt. 2,328 m - Marker 112
  16. 15 : km 17.62 - alt. 1,750 m - Marker 109
  17. S/E : km 19.98 - alt. 1,143 m - Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée car park. Junction with the - Ardon (rivière) Affluent de la Tinée

Notes

Mercantour National Park regulations, full details at this link:
- Bivouacking and camping: only permitted more than an hour's walk from road access points and park boundaries, between 7 p.m. and 9 a.m. It is forbidden to spend the night in your vehicle in a car park or at the side of the road in the heart of the Mercantour National Park.
- Dogs are prohibited, even on a leash.
- Fires are prohibited in the heart of the park and also in the Alpes Maritimes department
by prefectural decree.
- Parking may be prohibited at the start of certain hikes due to the risk of
torrential lava flows and rockfalls.

Good hiking equipment is essential, especially for the descent from Mont Ténibre.
You will find a water source on the climb up to Saint-Étienne, shortly before reaching the Chemin de l'Énergie.
You can refill your water bottles at the Rabuons refuge, and there are also numerous springs around the lake.
(3) Marker 103: For your information, the Chemin de l'Énergie towards Vens is closed for works between here and marker 111.
(4) Marker 104: For your information, the route to Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée via the Rabuons valley is also closed.
(13) Marker 111: indicates that the path is closed to the south.

This route passes through a protected area, which may be subject to special regulations:

Worth a visit

(5) Rabuons Lake
(7) Chaffour and Cimon Lakes
(Between 7 and 8) Lac de la Montagnette
(8) Pas de Rabuons: A boundary marker is located right next to marker 107. From here, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Italian Alps on the other side.
(9) Summit of Mont Ténibre
(12) Varicles Lakes

Reviews and comments

4.6 / 5
Based on 11 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.3 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
User 9527770

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Magnificent.
Hike completed in 9 hours with breaks: 3 hours to Rabuons Lake, 3 hours to the summit (I really took my time), 3 hours for the descent (again, I was very slow at the start of the descent).
You need to use your hands before the summit and on the descent, but nothing technical.
The ridge was much less vertiginous than I remembered. Excellent exercise if, like me, you want to overcome your fear of heights.
I admire the people who manage to do it in 6-7 hours!

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Fifinice06
Fifinice06

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 14, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Route taken on 11 October 2024. Everything goes well until you reach Lac de la Montagnette. After that, it gets complicated. Poor visibility of the path, lots of scree, no yellow markings. You can see a few cairns. At the Rabuons pass, it is easier to follow the red circles, which are very visible. Another beautiful climb over rocks to the Ténibre pass. After that, you have to cross a small ridge. It's best not to be afraid of heights. Once you reach the crosses, the view is wonderful. For the descent, I went via Lac du Fer. It's best to hold on tight.
This is a very difficult route. Do not attempt it if you are not experienced. It took me 7 hours to make the round trip from St Etienne de Tinée.

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Alberto balsam
Alberto balsam

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 30, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed in early October in just under 7 hours, starting at 10 a.m.
Covered in trail hiking mode with a good half-hour break at Lake Rabuons.

Everything is very well described in the description, but given the average reliability of the route, a GPS watch or iPhone app, for example, seems essential to me. The sections in the scree after the three lakes, i.e. before the final ascent and after the summit of Mount Tenibre, require a keen eye to follow the cairns or figure out the direction of the trail.

In terms of difficulty, it is long and exhausting, but the beauty of the landscapes makes it an exceptional route in the region.

In terms of wildlife, it was a desert, with barely two marmots and very few hikers.

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83.phil
83.phil

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 02, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

A very demanding hike completed in a single day. At the beginning of September, there are many Italian hikers at the summit because the elevation gain is less. The ascent route is easy to follow, but bypassing Lake Rabions in the scree is not straightforward. Beyond the Chaffour Lakes, there are numerous cairns. There are a few slightly exposed sections before the summit, but they are not particularly difficult. The descent to the Variclès Lakes through the rocks is well marked with cairns. The start requires careful attention, and you will need to put your walking sticks away to use your hands. The rest of the descent is long but not difficult. A return trip to the beautiful Lac Fer brings the total elevation gain of this hike to 2,100 metres. The final 1,200m descent via Les Granges de Fournels can seem endless.

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Eric06
Eric06

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 26, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with superb views of the Auron ski resort.
No difficulty except for the length and a slightly exposed final section before the summit of Ténibre.
Completed in trail hiking mode in 7½ hours, including an hour's break and a small unplanned detour just before the summit, distracted by the famous red markings followed in the wrong direction when crossing the last ridge, heading towards a small summit mistaken for Mont Ténibre...

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Kahloo
Kahloo

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 29, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A route completed in 6½ hours in sporty hiking/trail mode. A very demanding route, with some tricky sections not recommended if you suffer from vertigo like me. Difficulties of this kind were encountered at the start and finish of the summit. The descent is very "technical" and very challenging because it is endless, so you have to stay focused at all times. You need to be in good physical condition to do it in one go, otherwise a night at the magnificent Rabuons refuge would be preferable to enjoy the return trip. In short, despite everything, I loved it... Thank you!

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TonyFlechon
TonyFlechon

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 22, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant hike. I recommend splitting it in two because the terrain is uneven on the descent. Be sure to follow the cairns and red dots as indicated in the description.

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abeauville
abeauville
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 06, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb walk. We did it in two days, spending the night at the Rabuons refuge (friendly welcome, excellent food). The GPS track was very useful (10). The 1,900-metre descent is a bit challenging, but the beauty of the surroundings more than makes up for it. I can confirm that the circular is well worth doing: the descent to the Chemin de l'Énergie is very beautiful and very quiet.

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Costalonga Bernard
Costalonga Bernard

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 06, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

very beautiful hike

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serge_ikonomoff
serge_ikonomoff

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 05, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Instead of completing the suggested circular in one day, we split it over two days. We spent the night at the Rabuons refuge. If you are lucky enough to have a clear evening, the lodge is perfectly located to enjoy the last rays of sunshine and watch a magnificent sunset.
Unlike the author of this description, I strongly encourage you to do the circular. The descent on the other side is very interesting. And if you've decided to split the hike, I recommend having a picnic by the Varicles lakes.

Many thanks for this lovely description.

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gueta
gueta

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 28, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

I didn't complete the entire circular hike, but I did the round trip to Mount Ténibre and found the description very useful.
Many thanks to whoever wrote it.

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