Le Grand Capelet and the Vallée des Merveilles

A demanding hike through steep terrain to reach the summit of the Grand Capelet, offering a 360° panorama from the Mediterranean to the Argentera, and a return via the famous Vallée des Merveilles, allowing you to discover some of the rock carvings in the area.

This circular route is very long and very difficult; it is reserved for seasoned mountaineers.

Details

3752317
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 9.30 mi
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 10 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 5,174 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 5,167 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 9,570 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 5,522 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

Park at the Pont du Countet car park at the end of the M 171, which you take from the village of Belvédère.

(S/E) From the car park, take the track above and cross the River Gordolasque via the Pont du Countet.

At the signpost just after the bridge, turn left and follow the river up the left bank. The path then quickly gains a little height, crosses a few small torrents via footbridges and reaches a junction at a long footbridge.

Head up a stony, damp path on the right, on the left bank of another stream, the Vallon de l’Autier.

(1) When you reach a path marked with a yellow signpost, turn right (east) to take the path that climbs up the Vallon de l’Autier to the lake of the same name. The path veers away from the valley for a while to gain height, then draws closer to it, following the left bank for a while before crossing over and skirting the right bank. It veers off to the left again towards a tributary stream and then turns right once more to reach Lac Autier.

(2) From the lake, follow the path that skirts it to the right and look out for the tracks and cairns leading up the valley of a small stream feeding into the lake. The Baisse du Lac Autier is visible at the far end of the valley. Follow the cairns carefully; the going is somewhat laborious over the scree, mainly on the left bank at first, then more or less in the stream bed once the stream disappears.

Continue in this way to the foot of the pass. The path is then clearly marked but very slippery on a steep and unstable scree slope. Climb carefully , taking care not to dislodge any stones towards the people behind you. This is the trickiest part of the hike.

(3) Once at the Baisse du Lac Autier (elevation 2637), you’ll see the Baisse de Valmasque below and Mont Bego above. Then take a well-marked path that climbs along a ledge to the right. Keep heading south-south-east until you reach a fork, where you’ll join a wider path coming from the Baisse de Valmasque.

(4) Climb up to the right (west) and you’ll soon reach a small ridge offering a lovely view over the Vallée des Merveilles. Follow this ridge and the cairns, then descend a few metres in a series of switchbacks to the left. Climb back up to the bottom of a small valley between the Cime de Muffié and the Grand Capelet, and ascend to the left, continuing to follow the cairns. A short slippery section requires you to use your hands and take care before joining a ledge path that takes you just below the eastern summit, from where you reach the highest point of Mont du Grand Capelet in a few steps.

(5) Retrace your steps, descending carefully and following the cairns back to the Valmasque path.

(4) Follow the path straight ahead (north-east) towards the Baisse de Valmasque. This is well marked and presents no difficulty.

(6) At the pass, turn right (south-west) towards the Vallée des Merveilles. Descend through the valley, following the signposted path.
Please note that in this area, the use of metal-tipped walking poles is prohibited, as is straying from the marked paths.

Pass Lac des Merveilles and look out for the few rock carvings, some of which are signposted, along the edge of the path. Continue in this way until you reach marker 93 at Lac Mouton.

(7) Head up to the right (west) towards the Pas de l’Arpette, which you’ll reach quickly after a final uphill push.

(8) From the Pas de l’Arpette, you leave the restricted area and the use of metal-tipped walking poles is permitted once again. Then descend on the other side of the pass towards the Pont du Countet, where a 1½ to 2-hour descent awaits you! Fortunately, a few chamois will keep you entertained and help you forget your fatigue.

About halfway down the descent, you’ll come to a large green water supply pipe. Follow it for a few dozen metres.

(9) Look out for a passage under the pipe so you can descend to the other side of it.

At the end of the descent, cross the Pont du Countet again to return to the car park at the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 5,528 ft - Pont du Countet
  2. 1 : mi 0.89 - alt. 5,971 ft - Autier Valley
  3. 2 : mi 1.85 - alt. 7,431 ft - Lac Autier
  4. 3 : mi 2.8 - alt. 8,661 ft - Baisse du Lac Autier
  5. 4 : mi 3.04 - alt. 8,852 ft - Junction. Round trip to Mont du Grand Capelet
  6. 5 : mi 3.46 - alt. 9,544 ft - Mont du Grand Capelet
  7. 6 : mi 4.25 - alt. 8,369 ft - Baisse de Valmasque
  8. 7 : mi 6.18 - alt. 7,110 ft - Lac Mouton
  9. 8 : mi 7.31 - alt. 8,238 ft - Pas de l'Arpette
  10. 9 : mi 8.36 - alt. 6,857 ft - Route description
  11. S/E : mi 9.3 - alt. 5,528 ft - Pont du Countet - Gordolasque

Notes

There is little water along the route and no shelter (apart from the Refuge des Merveilles below Lac Mouton).

A difficult hike requiring the ability to navigate scree slopes and rocky terrain, as well as mountain navigation skills.

This route passes through a protected area, which may be subject to special regulations:

Reviews and comments

5 / 5
Based on 2 reviews

Reliability of the description
5 / 5
Ease of following the route
5 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
didou83
didou83
• Edited:

OK, thanks for your advice. I don’t think we’ll be climbing the Grand Capelet – we’ll be with a teenager, so it’ll be a bit tricky –
the campsite at Lac Autier is only two hours after setting off, which is a bit short

Thanks

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osiris130
osiris130 ★

Hello Didou,

Be careful, the passage through the Baisse du Lac Autier and the ascent of the Grand Capelet can be dangerous with heavy bags.

If you decide to bivouac, Lac Autier (only 2 hours from Pont du Countet and 600 m elevation gain) is a beautiful spot and allows you to start early on the second day to reach the summit by mid-morning (best light towards the Mercantour range).

If you go as far as the Refuge des Merveilles (about 11 km and 1,300 m of elevation gain and 800 m of elevation loss), you will have to bivouac next to the refuge (restricted area) and the second day will be much less interesting. On the other hand, the stages are more evenly spread out.

Enjoy your hike!

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didou83
didou83

Hello,
We would also like to do this hike over two days with camping, so we have to go to the Refuge des Merveilles and the start of the Pont du Countet. How many kilometres is that and what is the elevation gain, approximately?
Thank you

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osiris130
osiris130 ★

Hello Gérald,

That’s one long first day and a quieter second day, but why not?

In any case, if you want to split it into two, you’ve got no other choice, especially as wild camping is prohibited in the Vallée des Merveilles and Fontanalba areas.

Be mindful of the weight and bulk of your rucksack, as these could slow you down on the crossing of the Baisse du Lac Autier and the final ascent of the Grand Capelet.

Enjoy the hike.

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Gérald Carlin
Gérald Carlin

Hello, if I’m doing the two-day hike and stopping off at the Refuge des Merveilles, is the route evenly balanced between the two days?

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osiris130
osiris130 ★

Hello Nicolas,

Thank you for your comment. The app estimates the hike at 8 hours 50 minutes, but I’d stated a duration of 10 hours in the description.

It is indeed a very challenging hike in places and tiring over the long haul, and I can understand the sense of relief you must have felt upon reaching the end.

But the scenery and the feeling of being all alone in the world between Lac Autier, the summit and the Baisse de Valmasque make all the effort worthwhile!

What’s more, you were lucky enough to see some beautiful ibex!!!

Thanks for the Relive link – it’s brilliant.

Have a good day.

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Nicolas_Mercantour
Nicolas_Mercantour
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 16, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Relive link
The walk is listed as taking 8 hours 50 minutes; it took me 10 hours 10 minutes and I came back exhausted. I set off at 09:05 and returned at 19:15.
The path leading to Lake Autier is closed to the public due to a rockslide, but it’s barely noticeable. Getting past it poses no difficulty.
The final stretch of the climb up from the Autier Lake pass is exactly as described – in other words, hellish.
A big thank you to everyone who built the cairns!
Shortly after Lac Autier, when you’re on the scree slope but the gradient isn’t too steep yet, it’s best not to be afraid of spiders.
On the descent from Lac Autier, I hear stones tumbling down and spot a large ibex which lets me take a photo of it.
I hesitated briefly over which route to take to reach the fork (4) and the ridge on the right; thank goodness I had the Visorando app on my phone. I went the wrong way several times but eventually found the path.
I either missed the path on the ascent of the Grand Capelet or didn’t follow the right cairns, but I eventually found it again and reached the summit. The final stretch after the scree slope on the ascent of the Grand Capelet was gruelling, and I had to stop several times to catch my breath. It was on the descent, looking down over the path, that I realised I hadn’t gone where I should have during the ascent.
When I reached the Valmasque pass, the very wide and well-marked GR 52 gave me the impression of stepping onto a motorway, even though there weren’t many people about.
The descent and the crossing of the Vallée des Merveilles were a welcome chance to recover!
When I reached the junction at Lac Mouton, the landmark (7), it was 5.15 pm. The climb up to the Pas de l’Arpette, with its overweight marmots, took me 40 minutes.
Whilst descending from the Pas de l’Arpette, I naturally missed the passage under the water pipe; I ended up on a path that was becoming increasingly overgrown, and eventually found another passage under the pipe a little further on. It was perhaps a blessing in disguise, because on the other side there was a large ibex (what was it doing so low down?) which stamped its foot on the ground; it didn’t look too pleased to see me. I was glad there was the water pipe between us.
It was a huge relief to see the car park below. It took me 1 hour 20 minutes to get down from the Pas de l’Arpette to the car park.

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henrigole
henrigole

Thank you, Adrien, for your reply.
I haven’t walked the Baisse du Lac Autier for a long time, but this section, just like the Baisse du Basto (from west to east), is deteriorating over the years.

The path leading down from the Grand Capelet does indeed reach the Pas des Conques, and from the Pas you need to head back up towards the small pass you describe in your ‘Mont des Merveilles’ hike; after that, you know the way to the Pas de l’Arpette (from the small pass to the Pas de l’Arpette, it’s quite a steep descent at first). On the OSM Trails map (world), the path is marked out and I think it’s fairly reliable.
Have a good evening.
Dominique

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osiris130
osiris130 ★

Good evening, Dominique,

We did indeed find this section tricky, as the last 50 metres are on a very unstable and steep scree slope. You have to be very careful if there are people behind you. But when we were there, we also had difficulties because of the hail that had fallen two days earlier.

I’d heard about the section between the summit and the Pas des Conques, but as we weren’t really familiar with the area and had already climbed the Mont des Merveilles – from where we couldn’t see a thing – we didn’t venture there.

Have a good evening.

Adrien

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henrigole
henrigole
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 13, 1998
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Hello,
I did this hike over 20 years ago with my children; my daughter was only 10 at the time. We went directly from Grand Capelet to Pas de l’Arpette, that is, from point (5) to point (8). Since then, I’ve often walked these routes starting from Castérino, so I’m very familiar with the sections you’re describing. I’ve heard that the Baisse du Lac Autier (in the direction you climbed it) has become a difficult section over the years, and I’d love to hear your thoughts on this. In any case, it’s a superb hike, and it remains one of my fondest memories.
Kind regards,
Dominique.

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