La Villette, La Chapelle and the passages of the 18th arrondissement

A walk through the revitalised neighbourhoods of Paris’s 19th and 18th arrondissements. The Jardins d’Éole and Rosa Luxemburg add a lovely touch of greenery. By the end of the walk, the narrow streets and passageways make you forget the main thoroughfares.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: La Petite Ceinture de Paris

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 4.21 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 00 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 30 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 16 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 180 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 138 ft
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ City: Paris (75000)
  • ⚑
    Start: N 48.897367° / E 2.385769°
  • ⚑
    End: N 48.89753° / E 2.344907°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2314OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Starting point and access: Porte de la Villette.
- Metro - Line 7. Take Exit 1, Avenue Corentin Cariou.
- Tram - Line T3b. The stop is very close to Metro Exit 1.

(S) Upon exiting the metro station, head left, then cross to the right at the traffic lights across Avenue Corentin Cariou and the tram tracks. Follow the avenue to the left. Take the bridge over the Canal Saint-Denis, then cross the tram tracks again. Then turn right into Rue de Cambrai.

Walk along the right-hand side of the large buildings of the Espace Pont de Flandre. Go under the bridge of the old Petite Ceinure line (be careful, the pavement is narrow). Then turn right, cross a square and follow Rue Curial (the “TLM” building is on the right-hand pavement).

Before the street turns left, turn left into Rue Bernard Tétu and walk along the Jardin Curial on your right. At the end, turn right into Rue Colette Magny. At the end, first turn left then right to follow Rue Henri Verneuil (pedestrian street) and emerge opposite the Rosa Parks RER station.

(1) Then turn left onto Rue Gaston Tessier (colourful buildings on the right-hand side). At the traffic lights, cross Rue de Crimée and continue straight ahead onto Rue d’Aubervilliers. Then take the first left, Rue de l’Ourcq. At the traffic lights, take the first right, Rue Curial. Go straight on and pass Rue Raymond Radiguet on your right, then continue for about twenty metres.

(2) Then turn left into Passage Desgrais. Next, turn right into the narrow lane. At the end, first turn left then right and follow Rue Archereau. Walk past the base of the tall towers of Les Orgues de Flandre and Prélude. At the junction, take the second right, Rue Riquet. At the next junction, cross Rue d’Aubervilliers.

(3) Then turn left into the Jardins d’Éole. Immediately turn right towards the welcome kiosk and climb three small flights of steps in succession. At the top ofthe third flight of steps, turn left onto a small concrete path. At the end, continue along a path through the middle of a lawn.

Shortly afterwards, you’ll come to two concrete paths: take the one on the right, which is the wider of the two. Walk alongside a sports ground some distance to your right, then turn right, still on a concrete path. Then turn right, ignore a flight of steps on the left, pass a building on your right and cross diagonally to the left across a wooden esplanade.

Then follow a long footbridge overlooking a large lawn on the left and the railway tracks of Gare de l’Est on the right. At the end, leave the garden.

(4) Then turn right onto Rue du Département and cross the bridge over the railway tracks. At the next Fork in the road, turn left onto Rue Jacques Kablé. At the next junction, turn right onto Rue Philippe de Girard.

At the fork in the road, turn right into Rue Pajol. At the next junction, continue straight ahead along the same street. After about a hundred metres, veer right to walk along the esplanade. At number 12, turn right under a portico and enter the Rosa Luxemburg Gardens.

Go down the steps on the left, continue straight ahead and cross the covered area. Follow the gently sloping concrete path to the garden exit.

(5) Take Rue Riquet on the left, then Rue Pajol on the right. Take the first left, Rue de la Guadeloupe, and follow it to the end (market hall on the right). Then turn right onto Rue de l’Olive. At the square, turn left onto Rue de Torcy. At the end, cross Rue de la Chapelle at the traffic lights.

(6) Follow Rue de la Chapelle to the right as far as No. 17 (private courtyard on the left and a viewpoint on the right overlooking the Basilica of Saint Joan of Arc). Retrace your steps.

(6) Continue along Rue de la Chapelle and, at the next set of traffic lights, turn right into Rue Ordener. Cross the bridge over the railway tracks at Gare du Nord. Cross Rue Stephenson on the left-hand side and, at the next set of traffic lights, turn left, cross Place Louis Baillot and follow Rue Marcadet.

Go straight on, ignoring two junctions. At the crossroads, turn right into Rue des Poissonniers. Cross Rue Ordener and, after a few metres, turn left into Rue des Portes Blanches. At the end, cross Rue Boinod and turn right onto Boulevard d’Ornano.

(7) Take the first right, Rue de Clignancourt, and then the first right again, Rue du Nord. At the next junction, turn left onto Rue Boinod. Cross Rue du Simplon, then take thefirst left, Rue Hermann Lachapelle. Go round the Amiraux swimming pool on the left.

At the T-junction, follow Rue des Amiraux to the left. Then cross Rue de Clignancourt and continue along Passage Kracher. Cross Rue Neuve de la Charbonnière and continue along Rue du Roi d’Alger.

Take thefirst right, the Passage du Roi d'Alger, then, turning right again, the Passage Championnet. At the end, follow Rue Neuve de la Charbonnière to the left. Cross Rue Championnet and enter the Passage Duhesme opposite. Turn left into the alleyway.

At the fork in the road, continue straight ahead then turn right onto Rue du Mont Cenis. Take thefirst left, into Passage du Mont Cenis. At the end, turn right and you will immediately find the entrance to Porte de Clignancourt metro station (E).

To get back home:
- Metro - Line 4.

Waypoints

  1. S : mi 0 - alt. 154 ft - Porte de la Vilette
  2. 1 : mi 0.7 - alt. 148 ft - Gare Rosa Parks
  3. 2 : mi 1.16 - alt. 157 ft - Rue Curial x Passage Desgrais
  4. 3 : mi 1.59 - alt. 164 ft - Éole Gardens - Admission
  5. 4 : mi 1.91 - alt. 174 ft - Éole Gardens - Exit
  6. 5 : mi 2.41 - alt. 171 ft - Rosa Luxemburg Gardens - Exit
  7. 6 : mi 2.69 - alt. 180 ft - Rue de la Chapelle
  8. 7 : mi 3.46 - alt. 174 ft - Boulevard d'Ornano and Rue de Clignancourt
  9. E : mi 4.21 - alt. 167 ft - Porte de Clignancourt

Notes

A good pair of trainers is all you need for this urban route.

Toilets and drinking fountains in the public gardens (shown on the map). Bars, restaurants and shops along the route.

A detailed map is required (at the very least the one accompanying this description).

Opening hours of public spaces:
Jardins d'Éole
- Opening: 7.00 am on weekdays, 8.00 am on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing: 5.45 pm to 9.30 pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Rosa Luxemburg Gardens
- Opening: 8.00 am on weekdays, 9.00 am on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing: 5.00 pm to 8.30 pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.

Worth a visit

- The Canal Saint-Denis, shortly afterwards (S).
- The vertical architecture of the Orgues de Flandre, after (2).
- The Jardins d’Éole, between (3) and (4).
- The Rosa Luxembourg Gardens, partly covered, before (5).
- Basilica of Saint Joan of Arc (6), built in 1930 following a vow made by the Archbishop of Paris during the Battle of the Marne in early September 1914.
- Piscine des Amiraux (1930), after (7).
- Narrow passageways near the Porte de Clignancourt, before (E).

Walk undertaken by the author on 8 May 2018.

Reviews and comments

3.9 / 5
Based on 5 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.2 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
3 / 5
Nadette Pat
Nadette Pat

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 29, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Very busy route : Yes

The route is sorely lacking in greenery. The Jardin d'Eole is only accessible via a single entrance, making it impossible to cross. The footbridge is inaccessible, and we had to exit where we entered. It was impossible to access the Rosa Luxembourg Gardens because the indicated entrance was closed. We were expecting small green passages like in certain neighbourhoods of Paris, but this was not the case.
In short, we were very disappointed by this part of the tour around the Petite Ceinture: we didn't even see it!

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jakoufr
jakoufr

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

We’re continuing our walking tour of Paris (one or two sections a year).
This section was less interesting than the previous ones, which had taken us as far as the Porte de la Villette. The lack of access to the Petite Ceinture, along with a few closed or hard-to-reach parks, also played a part.

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francoise94
francoise94

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 22, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

This route takes you through some of the capital’s lesser-known neighbourhoods, offering a wide variety of sights, from towering skyscrapers to quiet little side streets. It’s a lovely discovery at Porte de Clignancourt, along the Petite Ceinture railway line, near a former station.

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SNOUPI
SNOUPI

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 13, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing

Very disappointed with the route, particularly the view of the basilica; very disappointed with the route – we were expecting narrow streets, like those in the Pré-Saint-Gervais neighbourhood – and the streets were unsanitary; not to be done at night

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Skocoleuro
Skocoleuro

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 20, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

Apart from at the start, you won’t come across the Petite Ceinture during this walk. However, the railway remains a feature during the first part of the walk, in the gardens along the tracks at Gare de l’Est, offering some lovely unobstructed views. Please note that on 4 April, access to the Rosa Luxemburg Gardens under the archway at No. 12 is closed, so you must continue along Rue Pajol. You can admire the garden via the entrance at the other end, at the junction with Rue Riquet.
There are some lovely discoveries to be made in La Chapelle and then, towards the end of the route, some charming stretches as you approach Porte de Clignancourt.
.

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