The Petite Ceinture in the 20th arrondissement, La Mouzaïa and the Bassin de la Villette

A stroll through the 20th and 19th arrondissements of Paris, taking in their diverse neighbourhoods. We cross Ménilmontant, roughly following the old Petite Ceinture railway line, then take a look at the old Belleville aqueduct. The neighbourhood around Rue de la Mouzaïa reveals its sloping streets lined with small houses decorated with flowers. We finish at the edge of the Bassin de la Villette and the Canal Saint-Denis.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: The Petite Ceinture in Paris

Details

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Last review:
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 4.24 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 184 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 295 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 364 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 154 ft
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ City: Paris (75000)
  • ⚑
    Start: N 48.864944° / E 2.398948°
  • ⚑
    End: N 48.897412° / E 2.385629°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2314OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Starting point and access: Place Gambetta.
- Metro - Line 3 or 3bis. Take Exit 1 (Mairie du 20e).

(S) Upon exiting the metro station, go straight ahead, walk past the 20th arrondissement town hall on your left and follow Rue Belgrand. Cross Rue du Japon and enter Square Édouard Vaillant.

At the first fork in the road, turn left, passing a small greenhouse on your right. At the next fork in the road, turn right and walk past the foot of the memorial to Dr Métivier. At the T-junction, turn left. Walk past a kiosk, the statue of Gambetta, a playground and finally some toilets on your left before leaving the square on your right.

Turn immediately left and cross Avenue Gambetta at the traffic lights. Follow the avenue to the left, then turn right into Rue des Gâtines. At the junction, turn right into Rue du Cambodge (note the colourful patterns on the façade of nos. 16 and 18). At the end, turn left into Rue Orfila and cross Rue des Pyrénées at the traffic lights.

(1) Follow Rue des Pyrénées to the right, cross Rue Villiers de L'Isle-Adam and turn left into Rue du Retrait (note the murals on the right-hand side). Then take thesecond left, Rue Laurence Savart. Walk down this cobbled street and, at the bottom, turn left into Rue Boyer.

At the next junction, turn sharply right into Rue de la Bidassoa. After about fifty metres, turn right into Rue Juillet. At the traffic lights, cross Rue Sorbier and go down the steps opposite leading to Rue des Plâtrières. Follow this street to the right and, at the next junction, turn right into Rue des Amandiers.

(2) Cross Rue de Ménilmontant and go round the back of the church on the right via a narrow lane. Cross a small square and take the footbridge over the old Petite Ceinture railway line.

Continue along Rue de la Mare and, at the junction, carry straight on down this street. Then take the first right, uphill, onto Rue de Savies. At the top (opposite the Saint-Martin manhole of the Belleville aqueduct), turn left into Rue des Cascades.

(3) When you reach Place Henri Krasucki, turn right onto Rue Levert, which ends in a flight of steps. At the top, cross Rue des Pyrénées, then turn left and cross Place Henri Malberg. Then turn right onto Rue du Jourdain. Just before the church, turn right, cross Rue de Belleville and continue along Rue de Palestine with the church on your left.

At the end, turn right onto Rue des Solitaires. Take thefirst left, Rue Arthur Rozier. Cross the bridge over Rue de Crimée. Pass Villa Albert Robida on your left, then cross Rue Compans and continue along Rue des Mignottes.

(4) At the next junction, turn right onto Rue de la Mouzaïa. Walk back and forth along the right-hand side of Villa d’Alsace and continue along the street. Walk up Villa Émile Loubet on the right. At the top, turn left onto Rue de Bellevue. Go down thesecond alley on the left, Villa des Lilas. At the end, cross the street and continue opposite along Villa de la Renaissance. At the end, cross another street and continue along Villa du Danube.

At the end, turn left onto Rue David d’Angers. Just before the square (metro station), turn left onto Rue de la Fraternité (note the sign for a former charity on the right-hand side). At the T-junction, turn right onto Rue de la Liberté. At the corner of No. 13, turn right into Villa Amalia. At the end, cross Rue du Général Brunet and follow it to the left.

Between nos. 23 and 21, turn right into Villa de Cronstadt. Cross a street and continue opposite Villa Claude Monet. At the end, go down a flight of steps, go straight on along Rue François Pinton and walk past a swimming pool on your left.

(5) At the junction, follow Rue David d’Angers to the left. Go round the next junction on the right, cross Rue Manin and continue along Rue d’Hautpoul (red and yellow sign). After about a hundred metres, turn left into the (pedestrian) Allée Darius Milhaud and walk past Collège Georges Brassens on your right. At the roundabout, turn right onto Rue Erik Satie. Then turn left onto Rue Georges Auric.

At the end, turn left and go under the bridge of the old Petite Ceinture railway line. Turn immediately right into Rue André Danjon, with the old railway line overhead on your right.

Cross Avenue Jean Jaurès at the traffic lights and continue straight ahead along Rue de l’Ourcq (walls heavily covered in graffiti on the right-hand side). Walk past a garden on your right, then a small sports ground. At the traffic lights, cross Rue de Thionville and turn right into Rue de la Marne to reach the quayside of the same name.

(6) Then turn right and walk along the Bassin de la Villette on your left. Go under the Petite Ceinture bridge and, immediately, climb a flight of steps on the left. Cross the basin via the footbridge running parallel to the railway bridge. Go back down and continue straight on along Quai de l’Oise.

Walk along the basin on your right and continue along Quai de la Gironde, staying on the lower level (do not stay too close to the water, as this leads to a dead end). Pass a public bathhouse and then a swimming pool on your left, and, at Rue Barbanègre, climb a flight of steps. At the top, turn right and cross the Canal Saint-Denis at its first lock.

(7) Continue straight ahead and enter the Parc de la Villette (landmark L3). Then turn left into the covered gallery with a corrugated roof and keep the large Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie building on your right. At the corner, turn right towards the metro and immediately turn left towards landmark N1.

Walk past the clock (N1) and head towards the sign for the metro, tram and bus. Go under a portico and emerge at Porte de la Villette with immediate access to public transport (E).

To get back home:
- Metro - Line 7.
- Tram - Line T3b.

Waypoints

  1. S : mi 0 - alt. 285 ft - Place Gambetta (Paris)
  2. 1 : mi 0.38 - alt. 305 ft - Rue Orlifa x Rue des Pyrénées
  3. 2 : mi 1.02 - alt. 220 ft - Rue des Amandiers x Rue de Ménilmontant
  4. 3 : mi 1.48 - alt. 272 ft - Place Henri Krasucki
  5. 4 : mi 2.07 - alt. 312 ft - Rue des Mignottes x Rue de la Mouzaïa
  6. 5 : mi 2.85 - alt. 240 ft - Rue François Pinton x Rue David d'Angers
  7. 6 : mi 3.61 - alt. 171 ft - Quai de la Marne - Bassin de la Villette
  8. 7 : mi 3.96 - alt. 171 ft - Lock - Access to Parc de la Villette - Canal Saint-Denis
  9. E : mi 4.24 - alt. 154 ft - Porte de la Vilette

Notes

Good trainers are sufficient for this urban route.

Toilets and drinking fountains in the public gardens (shown on the map). Bars, restaurants and shops along the route.

The route takes you through numerous cul-de-sacs and narrow lanes lined with houses: please be discreet and respectful.

A detailed map is required (at the very least the one accompanying this description).

Opening hours of public spaces:
Square Édouard Vaillant:
- Opening: 8.00 am on weekdays; 9.00 am on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing: 5.45 pm to 9.30 pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Square Sergent Aurélie Salel:
- Opening: 9.30 am on weekdays; 9.00 am on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing: 5.00 pm to 8.30 pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Parc de la Villette: 24 hours a day.

Walk undertaken by the author on 8 May 2018.

Worth a visit

- Ménilmontant neighbourhood, around (2).
- Regard Saint-Martin (17th arrondissement), before (3).
- La Mouzaïa neighbourhood, between (4) and (5). Situated on the site of former gypsum quarries, the neighbourhood could only accommodate modestly sized buildings. Today, it features small, colourful houses nestled alongside flower-filled ‘villas’.
- Bassin de la Villette and Canal Saint-Denis, between (6) and (7).

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 18 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.9 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
ozogiminy
ozogiminy

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 03, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

The Mouzaia neighbourhood is really nice and quiet, like the countryside in Paris

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xavlec
xavlec

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 23, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

An interesting tour starting in the bustling Gambetta neighbourhood and exploring the area around Rue Mouzaïa, which is unlike anything else you would expect to find in Paris (picturesque, quiet and hilly).

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nanouyaz
nanouyaz

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 02, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb tour, varied and interesting. We were a group of 19 walkers and their opinion was unanimous.

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RANdav
RANdav

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 28, 2024
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant discovery of the very quiet 20th arrondissement at the end of July, a very urban route. Next time, we will allow more time to make a detour to one of the parks bordering the Belleville or Buttes Chaumont route and also pass by Place du Danube. Arriving at the Canal de l'Ourcq and crossing the Parc de La Villette to reach the Porte de Pantin metro station, we found a completely different atmosphere, popular, sporty and festive with the Olympics, which was just as enjoyable...

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Crisroser
Crisroser
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 05, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely, peaceful walk that is very easy to follow. Beautiful discoveries.

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Regina
Regina

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 27, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful urban walk with lots of variety. The route is very clear and easy to follow.
I recommend it.

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cox92
cox92
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 30, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,
Not too many people on the route (school holidays, perhaps?). I was very excited by this walk, as I didn't know the villas in the 19th arrondissement (Mouzaïa district), which are charming! Lunch on the terrace in beautiful sunshine, in a restaurant on Rue Sorbier.
The directions were spot on, thank you! A thrilling discovery.

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sylmalta
sylmalta

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 21, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Discover two districts. For those who love street art, the first part is full of it. The Mouzaïa district is surprising; you feel like you're in the countryside or a posh suburb with charming little houses.
It's easy to follow the route.

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DomDom66-75
DomDom66-75

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 03, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A detour from the route in the 20th arrondissement was made to pass through other streets, according to my hiking companion, who knows the 20th well.

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Alemannia92
Alemannia92

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Mar 08, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful walk, although the inner ring road is not very accessible. But there is an opening at the famous footbridge: at point 2, cross Rue de Ménilmontant, but turn right onto the north pavement of this street. Just before the bridge over the inner ring road, take a door and stairs on the left to go down to the old station, continue under the footbridge and immediately take the exit on the right to find the path as described at Rue de la Mare.

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okillh
okillh

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 20, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very nice walk to discover pretty neighbourhoods with a village feel from the 20th and 19th centuries. A very pleasant and accessible walk, but note that there are a few hills along the route. The end of the route is undoubtedly the least interesting part, but you can easily round it off with a stroll through La Villette Park.

At the start of the route, the footbridge is still closed for repairs, but you can easily get around it by going through the residence on the left.

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Rct92
Rct92

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 14, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A walk on a cold Sunday morning. A stroll through eastern Paris along quiet side streets. The footbridge on Rue de la Mare is still closed (under renovation), but it is easy to get around it by going through the residence on the right (access is free)

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RIO1826
RIO1826

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 18, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,
Thank you, this tour allowed us to discover a district of Paris that was completely unknown to me. Without this tour, I would not have been able to see the façades, narrow streets and houses. Thank you again

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Mcbarthes
Mcbarthes

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 30, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A very enjoyable walk that introduced me to some streets I didn't know. And the Mouzaia neighbourhood is definitely worth a visit.
Thank you!

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Netra
Netra ★

OK, thank you very much!

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