The Petite Ceinture in the 20th arrondissement, La Mouzaïa and the Bassin de la Villette

A stroll through the 20th and 19th arrondissements of Paris, taking in their diverse neighbourhoods. We cross Ménilmontant, roughly following the old Petite Ceinture railway line, then take a look at the old Belleville aqueduct. The neighbourhood around Rue de la Mouzaïa reveals its sloping streets lined with small houses decorated with flowers. We finish at the edge of the Bassin de la Villette and the Canal Saint-Denis.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: La Petite Ceinture de Paris

Technical sheet

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.83 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Vertical gain: + 56 m
  • ↘
    Vertical drop: - 90 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 111 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 47 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ District: Paris (75000)
  • ⚑
    Start: N 48.864944° / E 2.398948°
  • ⚑
    End: N 48.897412° / E 2.385629°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2314OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Starting point and access: Place Gambetta.
- Metro - Line 3 or 3bis. Take exit 1 Mairie du 20e.

(S) When you exit the metro station, go straight ahead, walk past the 20th arrondissement town hall on your left and follow Rue Belgrand. Cross Rue du Japon and enter Square Édouard Vaillant.

At the fork immediately ahead, turn left and pass a small greenhouse on your right. At the next fork, turn right and walk past the Doctor Métivier memorial. At the T-junction, turn left. Walk past a kiosk, the statue of Gambetta, a playground and finally some toilets on your left before leaving the square on your right.

Turn left immediately and cross Avenue Gambetta at the traffic lights. Follow the avenue to the left, then turn right into Rue des Gâtines. At the crossroads, turn right into Rue du Cambodge (note the colourful patterns on the façades of numbers 16 and 18). At the end, turn left into Rue Orfila and cross Rue des Pyrénées at the traffic lights.

(1) Follow Rue des Pyrénées to the right, cross Rue Villiers de L'Isle-Adam and turn left onto Rue du Retrait (note the murals on the right-hand side). Then turn into thesecond street on the left, Rue Laurence Savart. Walk down this cobbled street and, at the bottom, turn left onto Rue Boyer.

At the next intersection, turn sharply right onto Rue de la Bidassoa. After about 50 metres, turn right onto Rue Juillet. At the traffic lights, cross Rue Sorbier and go down the stairs opposite, which lead to Rue des Plâtrières. Follow this street to the right and, at the next intersection, turn right onto Rue des Amandiers.

(2) Cross Rue de Ménilmontant and go around the back of the church on the right into a narrow street. Cross a small square and take the footbridge over the old Petite Ceinture railway line.

Continue along Rue de la Mare and, at the crossroads, continue straight ahead along this street. Then take the first right, uphill, onto Rue de Savies. At the top (opposite the Saint-Martin manhole cover of the Belleville aqueduct), turn left onto Rue des Cascades.

(3) When you reach Place Henri Krasucki, turn right onto Rue Levert, which ends in a staircase. At the top, cross Rue des Pyrénées, then turn left and cross Place Henri Malberg. Then turn right onto Rue du Jourdain. Just before the church, turn right, cross Rue de Belleville and continue along Rue de Palestine with the church on your left.

At the end, turn right onto Rue des Solitaires. Takethe first left onto Rue Arthur Rozier. Cross the bridge over Rue de Crimée. Pass Villa Albert Robida on your left, then cross Rue Compans and continue along Rue des Mignottes.

(4) At the next crossroads, turn right onto Rue de la Mouzaïa. Turn right into Villa d'Alsace and continue along the street. Turn right up Villa Émile Loubet. At the top, turn left onto Rue de Bellevue. Go down thesecond alley on the left, Villa des Lilas. At the end, cross the street and continue opposite Villa de la Renaissance. At the end, cross the street again and continue along Villa du Danube.

At the end, turn left onto Rue David d'Angers. Just before the square (metro), turn left onto Rue de la Fraternité (note the sign for a former charity on the right-hand side). At the T-junction, turn right onto Rue de la Liberté. At the corner of No. 13, turn right into Villa Amalia. At the end, cross Rue du Général Brunet and follow it to the left.

Between numbers 23 and 21, turn right into Villa de Cronstadt. Cross the street and continue straight ahead into Villa Claude Monet. At the end, go down the stairs, go straight ahead onto Rue François Pinton and walk past a swimming pool on your left.

(5) At the crossroads, turn left onto Rue David d'Angers. Go around the next crossroads on the right, cross Rue Manin and continue along Rue d'Hautpoul (red and yellow marker). After about 100 metres, turn left onto Allée Darius Milhaud (pedestrian street) and walk along the right-hand side of Collège Georges Brassens. At the roundabout, turn right onto Rue Erik Satie. Then turn left onto Rue Georges Auric.

At the end, turn left and go under the bridge of the old Petite Ceinture railway line. Turn immediately right onto Rue André Danjon, with the old railway line on your right.

Cross Avenue Jean Jaurès at the traffic lights and continue straight ahead on Rue de l'Ourcq (with heavily graffitied walls on the right-hand side). Walk along a garden on your right, then a small sports field. At the traffic lights, cross Rue de Thionville and turn right onto Rue de la Marne to reach the quay of the same name.

(6) Then turn right and walk along the Bassin de la Villette on your left. Pass under the Petite Ceinture bridge and immediately climb the stairs on the left. Cross the basin via the footbridge parallel to the railway bridge. Go back down and continue straight ahead along Quai de l'Oise.

Walk along the basin on your right and continue along Quai de la Gironde, staying below (do not stay too close to the water, as this will lead to a dead end). Pass a public baths and then a swimming pool on your left and, at Rue Barbanègre, climb a staircase. At the top, turn right and cross the Canal Saint-Denis at its first lock.

(7) Continue straight ahead and enter Parc de la Villette (landmark L3). Then turn left into the covered gallery with a corrugated roof and keep the large Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie building on your right. At the corner, turn right towards the metro and immediately turn left towards landmark N1.

Pass by the clock (N1) and head towards the sign indicating the metro, tram and bus. Pass under a porch and you will arrive at Porte de la Villette with immediate access to public transport (E).

To return home:
- Metro - Line 7.
- Tram - Line T3b.

Waypoints

  1. S : km 0 - alt. 87 m - Place Gambetta (Paris)
  2. 1 : km 0.61 - alt. 93 m - Rue Orlifa x Rue des Pyrénées
  3. 2 : km 1.65 - alt. 67 m - Rue des Amandiers x Rue de Ménilmontant
  4. 3 : km 2.38 - alt. 83 m - Place Henri Krasucki
  5. 4 : km 3.33 - alt. 95 m - Rue des Mignottes x Rue de la Mouzaïa
  6. 5 : km 4.59 - alt. 73 m - Rue François Pinton x Rue David d'Angers
  7. 6 : km 5.81 - alt. 52 m - Quai de la Marne - Bassin de la Villette
  8. 7 : km 6.38 - alt. 52 m - Lock - Access to Parc de la Villette - Canal Saint-Denis
  9. E : km 6.82 - alt. 47 m - Porte de la Vilette

Practical information

Good trainers are sufficient for this urban route.

Toilets and water points in public gardens (shown on the map). Bars, restaurants and shops along the route.

The route takes you through many dead ends and narrow alleys lined with houses: please be discreet and respectful.

A detailed map is required (at least the one accompanying this description).

Opening hours of public spaces:
Square Édouard Vaillant:
- Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. on weekdays; 9:00 a.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing time: 5:45 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Square Sergent Aurélie Salel:
- Opening times: 9:30 a.m. on weekdays; 9:00 a.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing times: 5:00 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Parc de la Villette: 24 hours a day.

Hike completed by the author on 8 May 2018.

In the nearby area

- Ménilmontant neighbourhood, around (2).
- Regard Saint-Martin (17th arrondissement), before (3).
- La Mouzaïa neighbourhood, between (4) and (5). Located on the site of former gypsum quarries, the neighbourhood could only accommodate modestly sized buildings. Today, there are small colourful houses lining flower-filled "villas".
- Bassin de la Villette and Canal Saint-Denis, between (6) and (7).

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 18 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Clarity of route map
4.9 / 5
Route interest
4.6 / 5
ozogiminy
ozogiminy

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Mar 02, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

The Mouzaia neighbourhood is really nice and quiet, like the countryside in Paris

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xavlec
xavlec

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Dec 22, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

An interesting tour starting in the bustling Gambetta neighbourhood and exploring the area around Rue Mouzaïa, which is unlike anything else you would expect to find in Paris (picturesque, quiet and hilly).

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nanouyaz
nanouyaz

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Dec 01, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A superb tour, varied and interesting. We were a group of 19 walkers and their opinion was unanimous.

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RANdav
RANdav

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Jul 27, 2024
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A pleasant discovery of the very quiet 20th arrondissement at the end of July, a very urban route. Next time, we will allow more time to make a detour to one of the parks bordering the Belleville or Buttes Chaumont route and also pass by Place du Danube. Arriving at the Canal de l'Ourcq and crossing the Parc de La Villette to reach the Porte de Pantin metro station, we found a completely different atmosphere, popular, sporty and festive with the Olympics, which was just as enjoyable...

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Crisroser
Crisroser
• Last modified:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Oct 04, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A lovely, peaceful walk that is very easy to follow. Beautiful discoveries.

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Regina
Regina

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Feb 26, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A beautiful urban walk with lots of variety. The route is very clear and easy to follow.
I recommend it.

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cox92
cox92
• Last modified:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Apr 29, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

Hello,
Not too many people on the route (school holidays, perhaps?). I was very excited by this walk, as I didn't know the villas in the 19th arrondissement (Mouzaïa district), which are charming! Lunch on the terrace in beautiful sunshine, in a restaurant on Rue Sorbier.
The directions were spot on, thank you! A thrilling discovery.

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sylmalta
sylmalta

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Jan 20, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

Discover two districts. For those who love street art, the first part is full of it. The Mouzaïa district is surprising; you feel like you're in the countryside or a posh suburb with charming little houses.
It's easy to follow the route.

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DomDom66-75
DomDom66-75

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : May 02, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A detour from the route in the 20th arrondissement was made to pass through other streets, according to my hiking companion, who knows the 20th well.

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Alemannia92
Alemannia92

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Mar 07, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A beautiful walk, although the inner ring road is not very accessible. But there is an opening at the famous footbridge: at point 2, cross Rue de Ménilmontant, but turn right onto the north pavement of this street. Just before the bridge over the inner ring road, take a door and stairs on the left to go down to the old station, continue under the footbridge and immediately take the exit on the right to find the path as described at Rue de la Mare.

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okillh
okillh

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of walk : Feb 19, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

A very nice walk to discover pretty neighbourhoods with a village feel from the 20th and 19th centuries. A very pleasant and accessible walk, but note that there are a few hills along the route. The end of the route is undoubtedly the least interesting part, but you can easily round it off with a stroll through La Villette Park.

At the start of the route, the footbridge is still closed for repairs, but you can easily get around it by going through the residence on the left.

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Rct92
Rct92

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Feb 13, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Busy trail : No

A walk on a cold Sunday morning. A stroll through eastern Paris along quiet side streets. The footbridge on Rue de la Mare is still closed (under renovation), but it is easy to get around it by going through the residence on the right (access is free)

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RIO1826
RIO1826

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Jul 17, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Busy trail : No

Hello,
Thank you, this tour allowed us to discover a district of Paris that was completely unknown to me. Without this tour, I would not have been able to see the façades, narrow streets and houses. Thank you again

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Mcbarthes
Mcbarthes

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of walk : Nov 29, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Clarity of route map : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

A very enjoyable walk that introduced me to some streets I didn't know. And the Mouzaia neighbourhood is definitely worth a visit.
Thank you!

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Netra
Netra ★

OK, thank you very much!

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