Warning
Information on how to reach the starting point, as well as details regarding difficulties, alternative routes and precautions to take, are grouped under the sections ‘Practical information ’ and ‘During the hike’. Any difficult hike requires preparation, and this very difficult hike is no exception
Route
GR®® 738 marked in red and white
(S/E) From La Bourgeat Noire, follow theGR®® which takes the track heading south-southeast. Ignore the track branching off to the right shortly afterwards and continue past the Plan shelter. The track then turns into a path that follows the Gleyzin stream upstream, still heading south-southeast. Upon reaching the foot of a scree couloir, known as the Pertuis, the path winds its way up to the east to reach a level track.
(1) Ignore the path heading north towards the Chalet du Vay and follow the level path heading south, marked GR®®. After crossing the Gleyzin stream bed and making a slight bend to the north, it climbs up to a flat area where the Oule ruins and a signpost are located
Yellow markings
(2) Follow the direction indicated by the sign for the Refuge de l’Oule (the other sign points to Lac Léat), and take the path that climbs the left bank of the Gleyzin, first south-east, then winding its way north-east, to reach the refuge.
Sporadic fluorescent orange circles
(3) Pass the refuge and continue south on the path marked with fluorescent orange dots until you come to steeper slopes. The path then veers left to go round the obstacle (southeast then south) and the markings disappear. After a steep climb, you reach a flat area in the scree, at around 2150 m.
Cain
(4) From this flat area, there is no longer really a path. Climb by sight south-eastwards over boulders and scree towards a narrowing between a moraine on the right and the foot of a rocky spur on the left (visible in this location photo ).
Once you reach the base of this spur, at around 2300 m, climb up its southern base to enter the couloir leading up to the Cols du Gleyzin directly from the east. After a flat section, head to the right-hand side of the couloir and note a small pass on the left; see this reference photo.
(5) Ignore this pass (it is a crossing point for a variant described below) and climb up towards the pass to its right; see the same location photo to reach it.
(6) From the pass, the summit you are aiming for is visible at the end of its ridge.
If snow conditions allow, pass through the boulders to the left of the pass (north) to maintain altitude (otherwise descend a few metres) and go round a rock outcrop on the left, then climb diagonally upwards to the east-northeast towards the ridge. Reach the ridge by aiming for the summit of a rocky spur at 2646 m (see the same reference photo ). From there, the ascent to the summit along the ridge is merely a formality.
(7) From the summit, the descent follows the same route as the ascent, down to the car park (S/E). See the variant below for an alternative route.