Estella-Lizarra walks

The medieval old town of Estella, through which the River Ega flows, boasts numerous Romanesque and Gothic buildings that bear witness to its former splendour. ‘Estella la bella’, as the pilgrims of the Middle Ages called it, is situated in Navarre, on the Camino Francés, between Puente la Reina and Logroño. I visited this beautiful town during the forty-ninth stage of my Camino de Santiago.

Fiftieth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This stage takes you to the southernmost reaches of Navarre, to the picturesque village of Torres del Río, with its Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a jewel of Romanesque art. In the blazing sun, this route is long and gruelling. When you arrive in Irache, known for its wine fountain, you will have walked for only half an hour, and you will still have 27 km to go… yet Irache wine is very strong, even if it goes down easily! Remember to fill your water bottle… with water!

Forty-ninth stage of the Camino de Santiago. This short stage remains very interesting thanks to the towns you pass through, such as Mañerú, Cirauqui and Villatuerta, until you reach your destination for the day, Estella, on the River Ega, a marvel from centuries past, which welcomes you with a very photogenic bridge.

Fifty-first stage of the Camino de Santiago. On this stage, you leave Navarre and enter La Rioja, famous for its vineyards, before reaching Logroño. The twenty kilometres of this section begin with a path through ravines, but once you reach Viana, the route becomes much easier to walk. Make the most of your late afternoon and evening to visit Logroño, a city rich in history and traditions dating back to the Middle Ages. In the evening, the narrow streets of the old town are bustling with life.

At the crossroads of the Camino de Santiago, Logroño is crossed by the River Ebro, spanned by two bridges connecting it to Navarre and Álava. Logroño seems a vibrant city that carefully preserves an old town shaped by the Way of St James and the culture and production of wine. It is a very pleasant city to stroll around, especially in the evening, to enjoy tapas in its famous bar district. I visited this city during the fifty-first stage of my Camino de Santiago.

The fifty-second stage of the Camino de Santiago. For this stage, the route leaves Logroño via a pleasant walk through the large La Grajera park and its lake of the same name, continuing on to Navarrete, a town renowned for its crafts. After a gentle climb leading up to Alto de San Antón, from where you can already see Nájera, the route takes you to the red rocks of the River Najerilla, where the ancient royal town of Nájera is situated.

Forty-eighth stage of the Camino de Santiago. A stage like today’s is described in Spanish as: todo derecho – straight ahead all the way. You walk alongside the River Arga with little change in elevation until you reach Pamplona, at the foot of a group of hills covered in beech, oak and wild pine trees. As you approach Pamplona, the landscape becomes more clearly influenced by civilisation, with its conifers, reforestation and farmland. The rest of the stage is dominated by the Alto del Perdón, which offers a magnificent view. From there, you can see Pamplona and the Pyrenees behind, and opposite, the vast Navarrese plain. You will spend part of the day climbing up and down this mountain range, passing through quiet little towns that resemble islands floating amongst the fields of grain.

Starting from Lake Urkulu near the town of Aretxabaleta (Guipúzcoa, Spain), the trail takes us to Orkatzategi (870 m) and then heads towards Ojo de Aitzulo. Return via the Ermita de Santikrutz.