Starting point and access:
From Châtel-Saint-Denis (first motorway exit when travelling from Vevey to Bern), head for Les Paccots resort. Drive through the resort and, at the fork at the exit, take the right-hand road towards Creux des Tables. Ignore thefirst road on the right and then thesecond on the left, and stay on the main road towards Col de Lys. After an almost complete turn to the left and a bend to the right, at an altitude of around 1,425 metres, park outside a hairpin bend to the left (Grand Praz sign).
There are directional signs at major intersections.
(S/E) Go through an alpine pasture fence and head south towards Grand Praz. At the Grand Praz chalet, follow a path to the right, which first follows the contour line and then climbs up through the alpine pastures.
(1) At the crossroads near an electricity pylon, turn left towards Col de Lys and stay roughly parallel to the power line. Soon leave it behind on your right and climb the switchbacks marked with metal posts bearing red-white-red markings. Pass through an alpine turnstile and you will come out at Col de Lys.
(2) Follow the ridge to the left (north-east). Pass a ladder and reach a secondary summit called Mys Derrey. Continue along the ridge on a slight downhill slope. Shortly before reaching the foot of a rocky outcrop, leave the ridge and follow a path that descends to the right (rope on the left side).
(3) Then climb up a couloir equipped with a chain. At the top, turn left (old red marker) and climb up a very steep path (you may need to use your hands in places). Then climb up a very steep couloir equipped with a chain. Continue along an exposed traverse (steep slope on the right). Climb up another passage equipped with a chain, emerge onto the ridge and follow it east-northeast. Turn right to climb up a final passage equipped with a chain (cross; old red marker).
(4) Then follow the narrow ridge to the northeast and quickly reach the summit, marked by a large wooden cross.
(5) Descend via the same route to the car park at the start (S/E).