Col de Burlan

See the practical information for details on where to park and start the walk.

(S/E) Head to the 1,594 m mark at the western entrance to the hamlet of Les Étages on the D530, where there is a sign indicating the start of the path to the Refuge du Soreiller.

(1) Take the winding path that climbs northwards beneath the Draye du Penu. The path soon veers west-north-west towards the gorges of the Ruisseau d’Amont, which it follows along the left bank until it reaches a footbridge crossing the torrent at around 2,000m, below some small waterfalls.

From the footbridge, the path climbs due north, sometimes in tight hairpin bends, and reaches the less steep slope of the Amas du Clot. At around 2,400 metres, it heads east for 50 metres and crosses another branch of the torrent (junction with the Vallouzets alternative route; see the explanations in the ‘During the hike or nearby’ section).

(2) Continue northwards in switchbacks to the Refuge du Soreiller beneath the jagged Aiguille Dibona (junction with the Vallouzets alternative route).

(3) Go round the refuge to find a green-marked path that heads west, crossing a very small rocky escarpment which presents no difficulty. The path continues westwards beneath the snowfield (early in the season) of the Clochetons de Gunneng, without gaining much altitude, and joins the ridge separating the valley of the Ruisseau d’Amont (which you ascended) from that of the Ruisseau d’en Bas, at a large flat boulder.

(4) Look out for the Col de Burlan (see the reference photo) to the north-west, and head up towards it off the path on the western flank of the ridge, over a mixture of rounded boulders and scree. Step onto the vast, flat expanse of the Ancien Glacier Ouest du Soreiller (snowfield) and traverse it north-westwards, still heading towards the pass.

Below the pass, the slope becomes much steeper and it is advisable to climb up one of the flanks, using the rocks – which are more stable than the scree in the centre of the couloir – for support.

(5) At the pass, take in the view of the Vallon de la Selle, the Râteau and the Meije, then retrace your steps to the large rock on the shoulder.

(4). Resume the cairn-marked path, which winds down in gravelly switchbacks beneath the western flank of the shoulder.

The path soon heads south-southeast, skirting the base of steep rocks to reach a grassy plateau and a small shepherd’s shelter.

(6) Once at the shelter, take another moment to admire the Cirque du Soreiller and the Dibona to the north, but do not continue along the path that descends eastwards towards the Ruisseau d’Amont. Instead, retrace your steps and look to the left for the cairn and the switchbacks that descend southwards through the grass.

After a slightly steeper section, the path turns right, heading due west, to pass beneath rocky outcrops and draw closer to the Ruisseau d’en Bas, which it overlooks above the narrow gorge of the Waterfall d’en Bas. It then heads south-east towards a small cliff via a section that can be a bit tricky in wet weather (see reference photo) and descends along the rocks towards a cattle gate.

(7) Close the gate behind you and continue down the cairn-marked path which descends south-east beneath the foothills of the ridge separating the two streams on the route.

After a flat stretch dotted with large boulders and dwarf birches, you’ll reach the bridge over the D530.

(8) Step onto the road and follow it eastwards back to the starting point (S/E).

?️ Park at one of the two car parks at Les Étages, or at point (S/E), where there is a single narrow parking space, sheltered by trees and on grass. The ascending path starts at the IGN elevation of 1,594 metres, opposite the small road leading down towards Le Vénéon.

? There is plenty of water in the valleys, and above the Refuge du Soreiller there are a few patches of snow. Take a filter with you to drink water from the streams, as sheep graze on the slopes up to over 2,800 metres.

? Dogs are not permitted in the Écrins National Park.

?♀️ This hike is ‘very difficult’ due to the elevation gain and the steepness of the slopes at the Col de Burlan, but it does not involve any technical climbing difficulties (the alternative route via Les Vallouzets is, however, a little more challenging in the Combe de la Balme).

? Please do not attempt this hike in wet weather, as the paths are particularly dangerous and slippery in such conditions.

? The hike is short and not really suitable for bivouacking, but a stay at the Refuge du Soreiller can be enjoyable and allow you to spend more time admiring the mountains.

? Standard hiking kit is sufficient; walking poles are very useful on the descent.

⏰ Even in high season, it isn’t essential to set off very early, as the climb to the refuge is quick (around two hours) and the cirque is relatively sheltered from the sun. Only the spectacle of the sunrise determines the set-off time.

? The IBP statistics for the route give an index of 193HKG, a distance of 13.61 km, a total elevation gain of 1,776 m, a walking time of 4:04:09 and an average speed of 3.34 km/h.

? Finding your way is easy even off the beaten track, as the Cirque du Soreiller forms a series of natural landmarks that are visible from everywhere.

? Alpine wildlife is present, but the Cirque du Soreiller’s high visitor numbers make the animals wary, with the exception of a few marmots that come to beg for food at the refuge.

? The views from the pass and within the cirque are splendid. Full-resolution photos of this hike can be viewed in the Google Photos album ⓒ JR Bouvier 2019–2099.
? The main alternative route involves walking the trail in the opposite direction, i.e. ascending along the Ruisseau d’en Bas above Le Cray. This has the particular advantage, especially when setting off early in the morning, of offering a magnificent view of the sunrise over the Tête de la Marsare and then watching the sun gradually illuminate the peaks surrounding the Cirque du Soreiller.

Another alternative route takes you past the ragged rocks of Les Vallouzets beneath the Tête du Rouget. If you opt for the above route, after the Refuge du Soreiller (3) you must not descend the hairpin bends of the main path towards the Cascades d’Amont, but head due east along the contour lines on a vaguely marked trail (this is the path leading mountaineers to the foot of the slabs of the Tête du Rouget). However, leave the cairns behind quickly to stay at the same elevation and head south in a wide arc, almost running into the rocky cliffs that slope down from east to west from the Rouget. Then descend due west into the Combe de la Balme; the narrowest part of the valley can be crossed by a few steps down rocky ledges on the right bank of the stream, or more easily, by descending into the stream itself. Once past the narrows, head off to the right (north-west) to rejoin the main path in a wide arc on the opposite bank of the Ruisseau d’Amont at (2).

Finally, if you follow the route in the direction described, you can shorten the walk at (6) and take the path that descends westwards before quickly turning north to reach the Amas du Clot and the path leading up to 2,250 metres.

? The Combe de la Balme unsurprisingly takes its name from the words ‘combe’ and ‘balme’. A ‘combe’ is the upper part of a valley, often dry, situated above a ravine through which a stream flows. A ‘balme’ (also known as a ‘baume’, ‘borme’ or ‘barme’) is a rock shelter or, as here, an overhanging cliff.

A ‘clot’ (see Amas des Clots) is a flat area suitable for grazing livestock.

A ‘draye’ (or ‘drovers' road’) is a passageway for herds.