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From Bompas, follow the D20 towards Arnave. Once in the village, do not cross the bridge over the stream but turn left and park near the cross and the local information sign (three to four spaces). If these are full, there are other spaces available next to the cemetery.
Yellow PR® markings + directional posts
(S/E) Set off along the stream on the Chemin des Vignes, which is tarmac-surfaced at the start. At the right-hand bend, follow the stream, ignoring the track that heads uphill opposite, and you’ll soon reach a junction. Turn left onto a path, following the sign for ‘Croquié’, and walk alongside a small stream lined with hazel bushes.
Further on, pass the ford on the right and continue left round a hairpin bend. Then stay on the main path, which climbs very steeply and relentlessly until you reach the metal gate marking the approach to the Col d’Ijou. Go through the gate, walk along a meadow on your right and reach the pass, marked by a signpost.
(1) Turn right towards Mercus – Croquié and you’ll immediately come to another signpost. Turn right again, following the sign for “Cazenave”. Follow the wide, balcony-like path, which offers stunning views over the Arnave basin and the Teste de Cuing, and leads to the hamlet of Serres, which you’ll reach after passing through two successive electric fences.
(2) Cross the hamlet, veering to the left, and you’ll soon rejoin the tarmac road. On leaving the hamlet, stop at the designated rest area where there is an excellent orientation board allowing you to identify the main peaks in this part of the Ariège and the Couserans. Continue along the D71, preferably on the right-hand verge. Pass the hamlet of Allens and come out onto the Route des Corniches (D20).
No signposting
(3) Turn right and descend this busier road with care to reach La Mouline.
(4) About a hundred metres before the sign marking the entrance to the hamlet, turn left onto a path which, further on, crosses the Sécaille stream. Just after the bridge, turn right and head into the forest. Stay on the main path until you reach a left-hand bend, about a hundred metres before the wide clearing made for a power line.
(5) A tricky junction: look out for the small fluorescent pink mark on a tree and a very inconspicuous cairn, both on the right. Leave the wide path you have been following and take a narrow track here, which widens shortly afterwards.
(6) Tricky junction: just as the path begins to descend to the right, leave it and head left onto a much less distinct, level track. A fluorescent pink arrow on a small rock on the ground marks this fork; it is confirmed a little further on by a pink mark painted on a tree on either side. Take care to follow the path on the ground, which is quite difficult to spot amongst the carpet of leaves.
(7) Tricky junction: in much the same situation as the previous one, at a small, solitary holly bush, turn left again despite the lack of an obvious path. A small cairn confirms that you are on the right track, but it is difficult to spot. As before, make sure you follow the very faint trail, keeping to the contour line, until you reach the junction with a wider path.
Yellow PR® markings + directional posts
(8) Head straight ahead and follow this path, which leads to the Col d’Ussat (water tank) after a short but very steep climb.
(9) Pass a signpost and follow the track for about a hundred metres. At the next signpost, turn right towards ‘Ussat – Chapelle d’Arnave’ to quickly reach another junction at the foot of an electricity pylon.
No signposting
Carry on to the left, ignoring the path that branches off to the right and heads downhill towards the chapel. Then tackle the long and rather gruelling climb leading to the Col de Martel (water tank).
(10) Continue along the track, which is initially flat before beginning the descent via three hairpin bends, leading to the Col de Bazech and the crossroads located a few metres past a water tank.
Yellow PR® markings + directional posts
(11) Turn right, towards Arnave.
(12) Ignore the path on the left signposted “Bompas” and carry straight on to begin a descent that is partly stony, very steep and rutted in places, requiring caution. You’ll reach a small meadow and then a signpost; ignore all the directions indicated there and head straight ahead to reach the magnificent Romanesque Chapel of Saint-Paul. When I visited (February 2020), it was undergoing renovation and, unfortunately, the scaffolding obscured the entire structure.
(13) Continue along the path, which begins to descend very steeply with some tricky sections, especially when the ground is wet. Further down, the path becomes a track and levels out, returning to grass, before reaching the junction with the path leading to the Col d’Ussat.
(14) Turn left towards the village. Before reaching the first houses, the track becomes gravelly and then tarmac. Cross the bridge over the torrent and turn immediately right to return to the car park (S/E).
With 5 to 10 cm of fresh snow, we went on a family hike in hiking boots and it was GREAT. Almost reaching St Paul's Chapel, where we had a picnic, was a really nice bonus. Thank you!
Tourist office
Moderate 
Visorando Member
Easy 
