Roc des Hourtous – Les Détroits – Pas de Soucy

Park in the private car park of the Restaurant du Roc des Hourtous. The owner warmly welcomes all walkers, including those arriving in campervans who spend the night there.

(S/E) Head towards the car park entrance, where you’ll find the information board for the “Birds of the Causses and Gorges” nature trail – a short circular walk organised by the Méjean school in La Parade.

Yellow PR® markings

Follow the trail which starts in front of this sign and winds gently beneath the pine trees. Signposts providing information on the various birds of the area are dotted along the route. Continue to the junction a few metres past the signpost about the “Diva farouche”, a small local passerine.

(1) Leave the nature trail straight ahead and head left to begin the descent towards the Tarn. This is a long and rather challenging stretch due to the steep gradient, the numerous small rocky steps to negotiate and the loose stones that roll underfoot. Please note that the IGN map is completely incorrect for this section. After a steep descent, you’ll reach the junction with the GR®736, where a signpost indicates ‘Les Vignes’ 9.4 km to the left.

GR® white and red markings

(2) Head off in this direction. The pleasant path winds through the pine forest high above the Tarn, though it is unfortunately partially obscured by dense vegetation. You’ll soon reach the Détroits, overlooked on the opposite bank by the impressive Clapas de la Truque. This stretch, very popular with canoeists, stretches for around 500 m, but you’ll need to be patient to find the few spots where a partial view opens up, allowing you to take some photos

(3) Continue along the Tarn until you reach a change of direction marked by a signpost.

(4) Turn left: the IGN route is incorrect at this point too. Pass the beautiful stone buildings at La Croze and, further on, the Camping de la Blaquière site on the riverbank. After the Cirque des Baumes, the Tarn veers to the left and heads south.

(5) From this point onwards, the vegetation becomes sparser and the view opens up over the river and the gorges. A few unsecured outcrops offer a chance to take in the panorama stretching as far as Les Vignes, where the bridge is clearly visible. Continue until you reach the Pas de Soucy. This very wild spot owes its popularity to the rockfalls that block the bed of the Tarn, making it inaccessible to canoes and kayaks, before the river calms down as it flows out towards Les Vignes. It is here that the route joins the GRP® Tour du Causse Méjean and a PR® trail.

GRP® yellow and red markings + PR® yellow

(6) Turn left and begin the most challenging part of the walk. The very steep and narrow path winds its way up a series of tight hairpin bends to climb back up onto the plateau, with an elevation gain of over 300 m over a distance of approximately 1.3 km. There is no respite during this seemingly endless climb before reaching La Caxe, where a magnificent Causse-style house, currently being restored, stands. Leave the house on your left and continue to the tarmac road leading to the hamlet.

(7) Cross over and head straight ahead, following the double markings and the sign for ‘Rieisse – Stopover Lodge’. You’ll reach a junction with a ‘No Hunting’ sign on a pine tree opposite and a second sign pointing to Rieisse.

(8) Head to the right. Much further on, go through the wooden gate in a fence and reach a junction about ten metres further on.

(9) Carry straight on along the path. Keep to the right at the three-way junction in the path, following the marked trail which slopes to the right, and you’ll soon reach a junction of cross-country tracks in open ground.

(10) Continue straight ahead along the wide track, which appears to be a bridle path, judging by the numerous hoof prints. It runs almost flat through a lovely pine forest before emerging into open country. Keep heading in the general direction, ignoring the offshoots on either side, until you reach a wire mesh fence, which was open when I passed through: there is a signpost.

(11) Head straight ahead to cross a cleared area where the track is lost for a good hundred metres. Simply keep heading in the same direction to rejoin the path at the other end and continue through the woodland until you come out onto the access road to the Roc des Hourtous at a signpost.

Yellow PR® markings

(12) Turn left and walk leisurely back to the starting car park (S/E).

This walk is classified as Difficult due to the long, steep and stony descent between (1) and (2) and, above all, because of the very gruelling climb up to La Caxe (7). The succession of numerous steep and stony hairpin bends makes progress difficult, especially if the climb takes place in the afternoon as you are mostly exposed to the sun. The ascent is continuous, with no flat sections to regain your strength or catch your breath.

The route is very well signposted throughout the walk, with directional posts at the main junctions. Unfortunately, the IGN map is often inaccurate, but there is no risk of getting lost on the route.

After (5), a few unsecured sections offer stunning views, but you must take great care.

Most of this walk takes place in woodland with pine trees and a few deciduous trees. You may find the long stretch along the Tarn between (2) and (5) a bit frustrating, as the dense vegetation blocks the view of the river. However, the view opening out onto the valley after the Cirque des Baumes and the vantage points more than make up for your patience.

Hiking boots with good grip soles are recommended due to the stony terrain. Walking poles will be very useful on the descents but may get in the way during the climb up to La Caxe.

There are no water points along the route: make sure you carry enough water.

I recommend visiting the Roc des Hourtous viewpoint (S/E) at the end of the hike to round off the route in style with the exceptional views it offers and, why not, stop for a drink at the site’s bar-restaurant as a thank-you for the free parking provided.

La Malène.

Sainte-Énimie.

Gorges du Tarn.