Gorges du Tarn: Hauterives - La Malène - Rieisse - Montignac

This beautiful and varied hike combines a walk along the banks of the Gorges du Tarn with the discovery of magnificent hamlets and villages in the Causse region, followed by a return trip across the Causse Méjean plateau in a remarkable wooded environment. The absolute calm of the causse contrasts with the hustle and bustle of La Malène and the constant stream of canoes descending the gorges. But the prospect of a welcome swim in the summer months will quickly help you forget this inconvenience. The harmonious blend of majestic landscapes and picturesque, well-preserved traditional buildings makes this circuit particularly appealing.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 10.98 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 50 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 2,054 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 2,057 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 3,104 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,444 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

Park in the hamlet of Rieisse, using the small car park near the lodge.

(S/E) Head towards the centre of the hamlet.

Yellow and red GRP® markings

Turn right, following the sign for "Anilhac". Make sure you pass to the right of the bread oven to take the path that runs alongside a few houses on your left: the path on the other side of the oven leads to private property. When you reach a junction marked by an old metal cross (which is a bit hard to spot amid the overgrown vegetation), turn left (markings are poor at this point). The narrow path gives way to a more comfortable track, crosses a magnificent coniferous woodland and eventually leads out onto the D16.

(1) Don’t hesitate to take a short detour to the right to see the beautiful drystone shelter in perfect condition; retrace your steps and follow the road on the left-hand side to the Col de Rieisse, where a panoramic view of the Causse Méjean opens up: __* see § Practical Information.

No signposting

Continue straight on, take a left-hand bend and walk for about half a kilometre.

(2) Leave the road and turn onto the grassy path on the left, which joins the tarmac road leading to Rouveret further on. Turn left, pass the cemetery and then the church, and arrive at the crossroads marking the centre of the village, where there are a few pretty Causse-style houses and a beautiful cross.

GRP® yellow and red markings

(3) Turn right onto the tarmac road and continue along a lovely sunken path until you reach a crossroads marked by a metal cross bearing the instruments of the Passion.

(4) Turn right onto a narrow path lined with box hedges and join the D16. Continue in the same direction to the nearby road junction known as the White Cross, named after the beautiful, imposing cross that stands there.

(5) Cross the D43 with care and continue straight ahead towards Montignac. Reach the centre of the village and look out for the sign on the stone wall indicating a right turn.

(6) Turn right. When you reach a dry stone wall on the left, stop climbing and turn right onto a wide grassy path: be careful, this turn-off is not obvious! Initially flat, this path becomes a trail that climbs to cross a rocky outcrop, then levels out again, with the houses of Anilhac in sight. Head towards the centre of the hamlet.

(7) Turn left, passing a small, well-restored house and following the sign for “Hauterives”. Follow the beautiful double track, which follows the contour lines, to the edge of the plateau.

(8) Access to the Couronne viewpoint is no longer possible as a fence blocks the way. The wide path followed up to this point gives way here to a narrow track which immediately begins the descent into the Tarn valley. First cross an area sadly scarred by the 2021 fires, then a greener section. A series of tight hairpin bends then leads beneath the imposing ruins of Hauterives Castle, perched on its rocky outcrop to the right. Turn left to pass between the beautiful stone houses of Castéllos, continue the descent and reach a crossroads where a signpost stands.

GR® White and Red markings

(9) Leave the PR® heading off to the right towards Saint-Chély du Tarn, turn left and head for the hamlet of Hauterives, accessible only on foot or by crossing the Tarn by boat. Take the time to admire the beautiful stone buildings topped with slate, some of which are unfortunately left to fall into disrepair.

Opposite the large banner reading “Village en péril”, temporarily leave the GR® and head down to the right to reach the banks of the Tarn at the cable gondola used to deliver supplies from the road on the other side of the river. Follow the riverbank until you come to a fence bearing a “Private Property” sign, then head back up to the left to rejoin the trail.

The path quickly begins to climb to go round a rock dropping sheer into the river, then starts a descent with a few very steep sections secured by cables and wooden steps.

(10) Turn right, cross a lovely wooden walkway, then descend to the level of the Tarn. Follow the river through the undergrowth on your right, enjoying the shade and the very pleasant sandy ground underfoot. Access to the Tarn isn’t exactly easy (tall grass, spongy patches, steep banks, etc.) and you’ll have to wait until you get closer to La Malène to find some very pleasant spots for a swim. You’ll come out onto the D43.

(11) Turn right to reach the bridge at La Malène. Enjoy the view of this exceptional village nestled beneath the rocky outcrops. Continue straight on without crossing the bridge.

Signposting: GR® white and red + PR® yellow

Follow the track, which is closed to traffic except for local residents, and continue for about 200 m. Look out for the signpost marking the start of a narrow path on the left.

PR® yellow markings

(12) Take this path, following the sign for “Rieisse – Roc des Hourtous”. The climb is steady and sustained, alternating between tight hairpin bends and long, sweeping sections. Towards the end, the gradient eases and the path passes through a beautiful woodland of conifers and oaks before reaching the hamlet of Rieisse. Emerging onto the tarmac, turn right as indicated by the signposting, then left, to reach the old bread oven and a signpost slightly off to the right. Take a moment to admire the exceptional architecture of the stone houses in this hamlet, which are in a very good state of repair.

Continue straight on to quickly return to the starting car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 3,005 ft - Rieisse, car park
  2. 1 : mi 1.06 - alt. 3,097 ft - D16, drystone shelter
  3. 2 : mi 1.96 - alt. 2,812 ft - Leave the road, take the path on the left
  4. 3 : mi 2.34 - alt. 2,743 ft - Rouveret, cross
  5. 4 : mi 2.63 - alt. 2,680 ft - Junction, cross
  6. 5 : mi 2.99 - alt. 2,657 ft - White Cross junction
  7. 6 : mi 3.6 - alt. 2,687 ft - Montignac
  8. 7 : mi 4.64 - alt. 2,782 ft - Anilhac
  9. 8 : mi 5.45 - alt. 2,802 ft - La Couronne, an area affected by fire
  10. 9 : mi 6.62 - alt. 1,575 ft - GR® junction
  11. 10 : mi 7.02 - alt. 1,578 ft - Secure decking
  12. 11 : mi 8.79 - alt. 1,470 ft - La Malène
  13. 12 : mi 9 - alt. 1,519 ft - Path junction, turn left
  14. S/E : mi 10.98 - alt. 3,005 ft - Rieisse, car park

Notes

Signposting

The walk is well signposted almost throughout.

  • There is an issue at the Col de Rieisse after the (8). Despite the clear presence ofGRP®® signposting at this point, a chain with a ‘No Entry – Private Property’ sign blocks the path about fifty metres after the bend! When in doubt, I preferred not to risk breaking this rule and continued to follow the D16 to (2). This is a point that will need to be clarified with the FFR, however.

Drinking water point in Anilhac (7).

All shops and numerous accommodation options in La Malène (4).

High or low-cut walking boots are recommended due to the many stony sections. Walking poles will be useful, particularly on the descent between (1) and (2), to help navigate the steep sections where stones roll underfoot.

The Gorges du Tarn are a particularly popular tourist destination in summer, with the drawbacks of mass tourism. There is constant traffic on the road linking Le Rozier to Sainte-Énimie, with the associated noise pollution, and hordes of canoes on the Tarn, etc. However, the beauty of the site encourages tolerance and provides a welcome counterbalance to these drawbacks, which should not discourage potential hikers.

Worth a visit

The Causse villages and hamlets you pass through are all exceptional and well worth taking the time to explore. These optional stops are not included in the itinerary and add a significant amount of time to the hike. Allow for an extra 45 minutes or so. Special mention should be made of Hauterives, Rieisse and Montignac.

Hauterives

La Malène

At (4), it is worth making a short detour to La Malène for a break, to stock up on supplies or to visit the village. This detour is not included in the route description.

Gorges du Tarn.

Gorges de la Jonte.

Saint-Chély-du-Tarn.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

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