Refuge du Ruhle and lakes of the upper Aston valley

A demanding hike in the upper Aston valley starting from the Laparan dam. After the climb up the Riutort valley, the high-altitude lakes unfold in a magnificent mountain cirque. A stop at the Refuge du Rhule will be welcome after the tough off-trail section leading to the small Étang de Montaut lake. Finally, the descent to the Jasse de Pinet and the Pla de las Peyres will offer a glimpse of the pastoral life that still thrives in these places untouched by mass tourism.

Details

341994
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 17.11 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 7 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 985 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 985 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,249 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,542 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐
    Area: Pyrenees
  • ⚐ City: Ariège (09)
  • ⚑
    Start/End: N 42.677704° / E 1.704417°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2148ET, 2148OT, 2148OTR, 2249OT, 2249OTR
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Access: In Tarascon-sur-Ariège, follow the RN20 towards Ax-les-Thermes. Turn right towards Les Cabannes, then follow the D520A towards the Riete and Laparan dams, going up the Aston valley. Park just before the Laparan dam on a flat, open space.

(S/E) Pass the dam on your right and continue south-east on the road, which immediately gives way to a wide track. Continue to a small car park located about 500 metres further on.

White and red GRT markings

(1) At the information boards, leave the track and take the path that climbs left towards the Rieutort valley and the Refuge du Rhule. After a fairly steep climb through the woods, you will come out onto a flat area. The path becomes easier as it follows the Rieutort torrent. Mountain pines, gentians, rhododendrons and foxgloves punctuate the walk in a wild and magnificent landscape.

(2) With the Rieutort hut in sight on your left, partially hidden by a large rock pile, cross the metal footbridge over the stream and follow the path, which initially climbs steeply before levelling out and heading south-east.

About a hundred metres before a wooden signpost, leave the marked trail and turn sharply right, heading west, to quickly reach the Étang du Ruillé lake. Then retrace your steps and return to the signpost.

(3) Return to the marked trail, turning right and continuing for about 200 metres.

Off-trail section, no markings

(4) At a flat section, leave the marked trail by turning right and cross a small stream. Look for a rocky outcrop to the south-east with a small, distinct, unnamed pass in the middle, which you will need to reach. The path is difficult in places covered with gispet and rhododendrons, which are quite treacherous and require your full attention. Make several turns to negotiate the extremely steep slope, aiming for a scree slope located about a hundred metres below the pass. Climb up this slope and cross the last section to reach the pass.

(5) Take a well-deserved break after this short but very challenging section. About ten metres further on, you will finally discover the Étang de Montaut lake in its mineral cirque dominated by the Pic de Pradel, an ideal spot for a picnic.

Leave the lake, keeping south-southwest. After crossing several unstable rocks, you will reach the base of a large chaos of boulders at the foot of Pic de Pradel.

(6) Change direction and turn left, heading south-east, along the rocky valley on your left. The descent is very difficult on the unstable rocky or grassy sections, which are particularly slippery. Keep heading south-east, negotiating the difficulties as best you can and aiming for the GRT trail you left earlier, which is clearly visible below.

(7) Once you reach an easier grassy section, turn left, then right a hundred metres further on to rejoin the GRT.

White and red GRT markings

(8) Follow the GRT to the right. After a relatively flat section, the path climbs steeply to reach the Col du Riutort (signpost).

(9) Leave the path leading to Pic de Pradel on your right and continue straight ahead. At the junction with the Col de Terre Nègre path (signpost), leave this path on your left and continue to the right towards the Refuge du Ruhle.

(10) Leave the refuge by following the southbound path and leave theGR®10on your left.

(11) About twenty metres before the first pond, leave the path on the right and continue straight ahead to quickly reach the Estagnol after crossing a small rocky outcrop.

(12) Enjoy the view dominated by the Pic Nègre de Joclar, then turn back.

(11) Turn left, cross the outlet of the small pond and follow the path to the large Étang de Fontargente.

(13) At the edge of the pond, walk along its right-hand side for about 50 metres to reach a track that leads away from it and heads north-east.

YellowPR® markings

Follow the marked trail, which is sometimes quite steep, taking the time to admire the herds grazing below. Reach the small Estagnol stream in Jasse de Pinet.

(14) Cross the stream on the metal footbridge and continue down the fairly steep and difficult descent to the Pla de las Peyres car park.

(15) Continue straight ahead and follow the wide track to the starting point (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,542 m - Laparan Dam - Rivière de l'aston
  2. 1 : km 0.65 - alt. 1,562 m - Information boards, take the path on the left.
  3. 2 : km 2.5 - alt. 1,835 m - Footbridge over the Riutort
  4. 3 : km 4.44 - alt. 2,021 m - Directional sign
  5. 4 : km 4.68 - alt. 2,049 m - Leave the GRT, turn right off the trail.
  6. 5 : km 5.23 - alt. 2,158 m - Unnamed pass at Étang de Montaut
  7. 6 : km 5.46 - alt. 2,169 m - At the scree slope, turn left towards the south-east.
  8. 7 : km 5.65 - alt. 2,103 m - Grassy section, turn left.
  9. 8 : km 5.82 - alt. 2,080 m - GRT, turn right
  10. 9 : km 6.51 - alt. 2,245 m - Col du Riutort, straight ahead
  11. 10 : km 7.53 - alt. 2,188 m - Refuge du Rulhe
  12. 11 : km 8.51 - alt. 2,104 m - Junction
  13. 12 : km 8.81 - alt. 2,126 m - L'Estagnol
  14. 13 : km 10.53 - alt. 2,144 m - Fontargente Lake
  15. 14 : km 12.09 - alt. 1,889 m - Torrent de l'Estagnol, footbridge
  16. 15 : km 13.62 - alt. 1,697 m - Pla de las Peyres
  17. S/E : km 17.11 - alt. 1,542 m - Laparan Dam

Notes

The road from the village of Aston to the Laparan dam requires caution: narrow road with potholes, poor visibility, difficult crossings.

The hike is classified as Very Difficult due to the significant elevation gain and a long off-trail section between the WPS (4) and (8). It requires a good level of experience in high mountains and is strongly discouraged with children or in rainy weather (very slippery gispet) or fog. The climb to the small unnamed pass is particularly difficult due to the very steep slope (40% in places) and sections on scree or rhododendrons where you have to be very careful to avoid falling.
For this section, the route is personal and should not be considered mandatory. Each person should adapt their route to the terrain, taking the route that seems easiest to them, which may differ from the one shown on the map.

It is possible to avoid this section and shorten the hike by going directly from (4) to (8). In this case, allow a good hour less. The rating then changes from Very Difficult to Difficult.

Good high-top shoes are essential and walking poles are strongly recommended. However, you will need to fold them up for the climb to the small Col de l'Étang de Montaut pass as they are very cumbersome and of little use.

Water and food supplies are available at the Refuge du Ruhle.

Worth a visit

There are numerous hikes in this wild and unspoilt part of the Ariège.

Ax-les-Thermes / Bonascre ski resort.

See another hike published on Visorando.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.8 / 5
Based on 8 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
User 3291909

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 16, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike. However, the passage between the Rhule refuge and the large Fontargente lake is dangerous. Climbing over large boulders. Snowfields on this section make progress difficult.

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RAND19
RAND19

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 29, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Route taken from the Rulhe refuge to descend via the Fontargente lakes and reach Pla de las Peyres, where we had parked our vehicle.
Having climbed up to the Rulhe refuge via the Rieutord valley and the Crête des Isards ridge from the Laparan dam, one of us drove the car up to Pla de las Peyres while the other waited with the rucksacks. It took him 30 minutes to get from Laparan to Pla de las Peyres, which meant we could "save ourselves" the track on the way back after three days of hiking in the area!!!

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catherinelanglais
catherinelanglais

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 14, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

We had a wonderful two-day hike with an overnight stay at the Rhule refuge.
No particular difficulties, lots of ponds and lakes for swimming, which was much appreciated given the heat!
Watch out for horsefly bites at the Fontargente ponds – we were devoured!
The walk back to the car park along the road that runs alongside the dam is a bit long!

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reine des prés
reine des prés

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 22, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did the hike in the opposite direction to the route marked on the map, preferring to do the 2.5 km road at the start. A magnificent hike with beautiful lakes. We had lunch at the Estagnas ponds and the Rulhe refuge, admiring the view of the ponds. From point 8, we went to point 4, skipping Montaut. View of Lake Montaut from the Col de Riutort. After the pass, the scent of broom filled the air. Pure bliss. Quite a long hike with some snowfields after the Fontargente ponds, but no difficulties as the snow was soft. Thank you for the route, which is easy to follow from the Rulhe refuge.
Meadowsweet.

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ehaton
ehaton

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 02, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Magnificent area, varied and wild, thank you for this walk.
I did a variation: I climbed up to the Ruhle refuge via the Crête des Isards, which is even wilder.

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Dosa
Dosa

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 20, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

The route is quite long (17 km), and the return to the car park along the lake is not pleasant given how tired you will be. An alternative route could be recommended to shorten the length a little. From the refuge, do not descend towards the Estagnol ponds and Lake Fontargente (long crossings over large boulders) but take the path above the refuge to descend directly to the Peyres plateau. At the refuge, we did not see any signs for this path.

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schmoll
schmoll

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 01, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful hike!
However, it takes a very long time to reach the Laparan dam by car!
This route is truly magnificent with the Fontargente lakes.
You should plan to spend one or two nights at the Rhule refuge to explore the surrounding area.

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castelroc66
castelroc66

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 03, 2016
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Hello
We know the area very well, having hiked there many times. All the walks around the Rulhe refuge are wonderful. The circular you suggest is a classic that I would classify as difficult to very difficult, passing over the Crête des Izards (more interesting than going through the valley).
No orientation problems for an experienced hiker.

JL

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