Pic de la Coume d'Enfer circular from Pla de las Peyres

A very beautiful hike, wild and rocky, with splendid views of the surrounding peaks, Andorra and the Fontargente lakes.
This isa demanding hike due to the elevation gain, with some passages that may be tricky for inexperienced hikers, and very steep slopes both uphill and downhill. GPS recommended.

Details

13346773
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 12.95 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 6h 50 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,110 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 1,101 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 2,724 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,694 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐
    Area: Pyrenees
  • ⚐ District: Ariège (09)
  • ⚑
    Start/End: N 42.649822° / E 1.703437°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2148ET, 2148OT, 2148OTR, 2249OT, 2249OTR
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

From Les Cabanes (N20 after Tarascon), take the D520a to Aston, then climb the long narrow road to the Pla de las Peyres (or Pla des Peyres) car park.

(S/E) From the car park, go down the wooden steps, cross the footbridge over the stream and take the path (marked in yellow) that goes up the left bank of the river. The path gradually climbs southwards then turns west into the Coume de Varilhes, continuing up the torrent on the left bank.

(1) Just before the metal enclosure on the left, leave the yellow-marked path that branches off to the left towards a footbridge and continue straight ahead (west) on the gentle climb up the Coume de Varilhes. Pass two small stone shelters and continue to the bottom of the Coume. When you reach the bottom, look south (on your left as you climb) for a small stream coming down from the south.

(2) Follow this stream up the left-hand side. A few cairns mark the path. The slope becomes steeper.

(3) When the slope levels out, the rocks become more numerous. Continue south-east, passing above the small Étangs de la Coume de Varilhes ponds on your right. Look for the few cairns and continue climbing, gradually turning east until you reach a small plateau where you can admire the path you have travelled.

(4) Continue eastwards then north-eastwards.

(5) Climb the steep slope (very steep, grass and stones) continuing in this direction to reach the ridge.

(6) Continue climbing, sometimes steeply and where you may need to use your hands, always following the ridge, heading south-east, then east to the Pic de la Coume d'Enfer.

(7) Continue following the ridge line (Crête de la Cabane Sourde) eastwards to the last small summit at an altitude of 2,595 metres.

(8) Then begin the (very steep) descent, following the faint path and the few cairns to reach the clearly visible Port (or col) d'Incles.

(9) Directional signs are clearly visible. Turn left onto theGR® T66 marked in red and white, heading north-east towards the Étangs de Fontargente (20 mins). When you reach the main lake, walk along it on your right until you reach the other end.

(10) Leave theGR® T66 and the edge of the lake, turning right. The yellow-marked path turns left, gradually heading north, overlooking the stream coming from the spillway, which remains below on your right. From there, the descent is easy and very busy. Continue to a footbridge.

(11) Cross it and continue left downhill to the Pla de las Peyres car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,694 m - Car park at - pla de Laspeyres
  2. 1 : km 1.89 - alt. 1,876 m - Small metal enclosure
  3. 2 : km 3.87 - alt. 2,061 m - Fond de la Coume
  4. 3 : km 4.3 - alt. 2,178 m - Flat section
  5. 4 : km 4.96 - alt. 2,331 m - Flat section
  6. 5 : km 5.21 - alt. 2,404 m - Full slope ascent
  7. 6 : km 5.47 - alt. 2,536 m - Ridge
  8. 7 : km 6.11 - alt. 2,718 m - Pic de la Coume d'Enfer
  9. 8 : km 7.54 - alt. 2,585 m - Small summit
  10. 9 : km 8.25 - alt. 2,261 m - Port d'Inclès (Fontargente)
  11. 10 : km 9.8 - alt. 2,147 m - Intersection - Étangs de Fontargente
  12. 11 : km 11.31 - alt. 1,888 m - Footbridge
  13. S/E : km 12.95 - alt. 1,696 m - Car park at - pla de Laspeyres

Notes

Do this hike in dry, clear weather.
Hiking boots and walking sticks are recommended.
Yellow markings up to (1), then off-trail or poorly marked trail with a few cairns here and there that you need to spot. Good sense of direction required, or follow the route on your GPS.
GR® (red and white markings) at Port d'Incles (or Fontargente).
This hike does not present any particular technical difficulties but is classified as "Difficult" due to the 1,100 m elevation gain, the sometimes very steep slopes both uphill and downhill, and the lack of markings and well-marked trails on the most delicate part of the route, requiring a certain sense of direction.

Worth a visit

Magnificent views from the summit of Coume d'Enfer (7) and along the ridges.
Swimming at the Étangs de Fontargente.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.2 / 5
Based on 10 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.2 / 5
Ease of following the route
3.6 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
Toch
Toch

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did this hike with two friends on Sunday, 3 November 2024, in very pleasant weather.
Not counting stops to admire the scenery and have lunch, we walked for about 7.5 hours. This was largely because it was our first time and the path, which is not very well travelled, is often difficult to find.
A very beautiful walk for experienced hikers. Not recommended in wet weather or in winter, due to some very steep sections and other north-facing slopes that tend to remain frozen.

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lecontep
lecontep

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 06, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike to do in dry, clear weather, but only for experienced hikers who are not afraid of heights.
The route between points 2 and 3 is difficult (the cairns stray from the trail), but it seemed obvious to me afterwards (with good visibility).
Very steep sections up to the ridge, then technical sections on the ridge and on the final descent to Port d'Ingless.
The bird's-eye view of the Fontargente ponds is a treat.

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PJ86
PJ86

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 23, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike, technically challenging, requiring sure-footedness. The route along the ridges is fairly obvious if you keep an eye out for the cairns, but should only be attempted in dry weather. Strong winds (foehn) on this particular day meant we had to be extra careful. The descent to the Fontargente pass is not easy (the path is in poor condition).
Magnificent views of the Fontargente lakes and the Pic de Rulhe, among others.
Many thanks to the author.

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tegon
tegon

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 01, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

This hike remains very technical and, of course, difficult.
Otherwise, the views are magnificent: of the peaks, the lakes, the ridge.
At point 6, I didn't follow the ridge all the way to the end, I switched to the grassier left side.
There was a lot of wind on the ridge (it wasn't warm).
At point 8, I started the very steep descent, following tracks on the ground and a few cairns, then nothing. Further down, I thought I could make out a ledge, so I went left and right (ravines), thinking I should continue the descent on the grass (steep and slippery), but I had my doubts and, to be on the safe side, I turned back.
Back on the ridges, visibility is now almost zero, with the wind driving clouds across the ridges.
At the Col d'Anrodat, I make my choice and head towards the Estany de l'Isla in Andorra (a beautiful lake below the Coume de l'Enfer), then descend on the well-marked path that joins the GRT 68 further down (up the Riu de Manegor).
Passing Port d'Incles, night falls, and I return to the car park with my head torch.
A total of 14 hours of walking, but an interesting hike and I'm happy. However, I'm a little frustrated that I gave up my descent at point 8 (a few more cairns would have been welcome).

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Gamelis
Gamelis

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 20, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hello,

This route does indeed require a great deal of attention. There are frequent hesitations.
There are two places where you need to be vigilant and where the route is not easy to find:
- Between the Etangs de la Coume de Varilhes and the western ridge of the Pic de la Coume d'Enfer.
- To find the access to the descent that leads to Port de Fontargente.

Be careful on windy days: it blows very strongly on the ridges (gusts of over 100km/h on 20-06-2023 forced us to lie down on the ground at the height of the gusts).

I confirm that this route is not recommended for beginners.

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Amneloris
Amneloris

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 23, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Please note that, as mentioned above, there are some fairly challenging and technical sections on the descent to Port de Fontargente.
There are also some fairly exposed sections, which I would not recommend for beginners or inexperienced hikers.
As is often the case with peaks, I believe the stated elevation gain is somewhat underestimated.
Otherwise, the location is magical, the ponds are magnificent and the view is simply splendid.

But I repeat, I would not recommend it to those who do not have real mountain experience.

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bouny
bouny

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

During the climb, I followed the cairns, but my phone rang to tell me that it wasn't the right path.
It's a shame that most of the time it shows a straight line rather than the actual route.

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ced81580
ced81580

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 01, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

GPS is essential, or else a very good sense of direction.
This is a difficult route, and I approve of this choice. Not recommended for Sunday hikers.
Otherwise, magnificent views and a very beautiful hike.

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Véli
Véli

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 29, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

Hike done on 24/10; I took the wrong route: set off on the yellow marked path that goes left; from Port d'Incles, climbed the Cabane Sourde ridge; met hikers who advised me not to continue because the entire climb and the ridge line to Pic de la Coume d'Enfer - point (5) to point (6) - were completely icy and therefore very dangerous on the descent. Turned back, but it was still a very beautiful hike.

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TO57207
TO57207

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 28, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike, even though the sky was overcast.
The route is very beautiful, certainly a little demanding but less difficult than I feared. The only tricky part is probably finding the descent to Port de Fontagente; there are certainly several possibilities, without having to use your hands; it's not well marked on the spot, but you can see it quite clearly.
Best done in good weather, avoid fog
Thanks to the author, we had a great day.

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