The northern trenches of Hartmannswillerkopf

The Hartmannswillerkopf (HWK, Viel Armand in French) was the scene of fierce fighting throughout 1915. Like the "South Trenches of the HWK" hike, this hike pays tribute to the combatants by following part of their trenches and shelters. It begins with an ascent of the northern slope of the massif and the German side to the summit, followed by a descent via the French side before passing by the Sicurani Chapel.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 9.23 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 4h 20 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 597 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 595 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 956 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 468 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Go to Croix de Zimmermann. To do this, cross the village of Wuenheim and head towards the Amic pass. Park in the car park at Kaltenbach and Croix Zimmermann.

(S/E) The starting point is next to an information board about the Club Vosgien trails. The circuit begins on a forest path. Follow the Club Vosgien signs (yellow triangle) to the south-west, towards the Sicurani Chapel.
After 250 metres, two German concrete shelters flank the forest path. After the shelter on the left, take the path that crosses the Gutenbach stream via a small bridge. Follow the Kaune Triangle signs towards Tanzplatz. Facing south, the path winds its way up through the forest until it reaches a T-junction. Then turn left: the path is flat until you reach Tanzplatz.

(1) An imposing German shelter rises up from the mountain. Higher up, you will discover other structures.
Take the path that climbs up the valley towards the summit of the HWK: this is the Edouard Werner path (marked with a yellow triangle). You will arrive at another set of fortifications carved into the rock. A log staircase has been installed to make the climb easier.
At elevation 650, cross a forest path (known as the Chemin des Parisiennes). Continue climbing and follow the yellow triangle.
Cross another forest path. Ignore the Freundstein signpost (to the right) towards the old Jager Friedhof cemetery (of limited interest).
Continue climbing in the same direction, towards Silberloch via Pain de Sucre (yellow triangle).
You will arrive at the start of the fortified trenches and German shelters. Feel free to explore them (at your own risk) with a torch (see the Felseneck shelter in particular).
Follow the path through the maze of trenches to the shelter called Beskid

(2). Turn left, and the path becomes flat. You will arrive at an old watering hole called Kreuzotter just before a sharp bend in a forest path. Continue straight ahead towards a rocky outcrop that stands out from the trees.
You will arrive at a place called Schlummerklippe (altitude 753)

(3). This is a fortified complex where bathrooms and toilets still remain. Continue to the end of the slope where there is a wider path. Turn right twice onto a path that climbs towards Kardinalfelsen.
Roche Kardinal has been transformed into shelters and positions carved into the rock. It is located just before the main ridge of the HWK. Follow this maze of trenches and shelters towards the summit until you reach the circular memorial trail (marked Anneau Bleu). Turn right towards Bastion.
Stay inside the trenches at all times. The closer you get to the summit, the more extensive the maze of trenches and the greater the number of shelters. Continue to the foot of the Croix Lumineuse.

(4) It symbolises the former Franco-German front line after 1916. From this point, you can visit the ridge line dotted with trenches and shelters towards the 152RI monument.
Continue the hike from the Croix Lumineuse. Head towards the Col de Silberloch via the Roche Sermet (marked with a red ring). You are now in the former French sector.
Arrive at Roche Sermet (beautiful viewpoint). Take a path on the right (marked with a blue ring) and reach Roche Mégard (beautiful viewpoint).
Take a path that descends towards the Zimmermann Cross (blue disc). On the descent, pass by an observation point with a steel bell. The path winds downhill, passing by the trenches of the 6th and 7th BTC (Territorial Battalion of Hunters).
When you reach Roche Fendue, you will find another French fortified complex (beautiful view of the Grand Ballon and the Sicurani Chapel).
Continue down the trail and not the forest path (blue disc).
At altitude 684, turn right into the valley towards the Zimmermann cross and not left (towards Freundstein).
When you reach a forest track, turn left and follow the Blue Triangle markings. Cross three valleys, staying on the forest track.
Cross the old Bonnegoute Hunters' Cemetery on your left.

(5) Only a calvary with a quote from Victor Hugo remains. A few metres after the old cemetery, at the stream, leave the forest track and turn right onto a path that descends along the stream. Follow the blue triangle markings. You will come to a forest path (if necessary, turn right and follow this path to return directly to the starting point). Cut across the forest path and cross the stream to climb up a winding path (not shown on the map), following the blue triangle markings towards Chapelle Sacurani and Col Amic.
The trail arrives at a forest path near the crossroads at altitude 639.
Turn right, walk 50 metres to a wooden bench and turn left onto a path that runs alongside the forest track marked with blue triangles towards Chapelle Siracuni. The path winds its way up to the Siracuni chapel

(7). This chapel is named in honour of Captain Siracuni, who died in December 1915.
With your back to the chapel, take the path that descends slightly to the right. Head towards Fort Baratan, marked with a yellow disc.
Cross the head of a valley, continue straight ahead and follow the red cross markings towards the ruined castle of Hartfelsenschloss.
Before the rocky outcrop, you will come to a calvary of the 6th Territorial Battalion of Hunters. The rocky outcrop shelters the remains of Hartfelsenschloss Castle.

(7) Built in 1297 and destroyed in 1525, only a single moat remains. From the top of this spur, you have a beautiful view of the Hartmannswillerkopf ridge on one side and the Grand Ballon d'Alsace on the other.
Descend to the Calvary and take the Red Cross marked trail towards Hartfelsen until you reach a forest path.

(8) There are two options:
1) If you want to visit the Baratin shelter (French post), take the forest path on the right, walk 450 m, and at the second bend in the path you will see a spur. At the foot of this spur is the shelter of Captain Baratin of the 10th Company of the 68th Chasseur Battalion, built on 30 May 1916 (the shelter is of little interest except for the view).
2) If you do not wish to visit the Baratin shelter (this is the route shown on the map), take the forest path on the left and walk 70 m before descending along a path beside a small stream marked with a Red Cross sign, towards Courbe 600.

When you reach an old forest path, turn right to join another, more recent forest path and turn left to reach the Kaltenbach River. Marked with a red triangle.
This very pleasant path runs alongside the river, rocks, a few concrete shelters and German caves to reach the old German baths.

(9) You will come to a bridge and the tarmac road where the hike started (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 471 m - Kaltenbach car park - La Croix Zimmermann
  2. 1 : km 0.97 - alt. 576 m - Tanzplatz shelter
  3. 2 : km 1.69 - alt. 754 m - Beskid shelter
  4. 3 : km 2.3 - alt. 753 m - Schlummerklippe shelter
  5. 4 : km 3.24 - alt. 956 m - Illuminated white cross - Vieil Armand (Hartmannswillerkopf)
  6. 5 : km 6.15 - alt. 623 m - Bonnegoute Hunters' Cemetery
  7. 6 : km 6.89 - alt. 720 m - Chapelle Sicurani
  8. 7 : km 7.29 - alt. 732 m - Castle - Château du Hartfelsenschloss
  9. 8 : km 7.57 - alt. 688 m - Forest path - Possible options
  10. 9 : km 8.99 - alt. 483 m - Ancient baths
  11. S/E : km 9.23 - alt. 471 m - Kaltenbach car park - Cascade du Kaltenbach

Notes

Basic equipment for a hike in the mid-range mountains.
Bring a torch if you want to explore shelters and caves.
Picnic areas:
- at the Zimmermann cross (starting point).
- at the summit of the HWK At the large white cross, "Croix de la Paix en Europe" (Cross of Peace in Europe).
- at the Fendu rock, a small grassy area with a view of the Grand Ballon and the Sicurani Chapel.
- at the Sicurani Chapel (bench and shelter).
- hartfelsenschloss castle ruins.

Understanding the Club Vosgien trail markings.
.

Worth a visit

Visits to shelters and forts (6,000 shelters were built, half of which are still visible).
The Silberloch Pass Necropolis is the burial place of 1,256 soldiers and six ossuaries containing 386 unknown soldiers. It features a peristyle, an entrance, a crypt, a vestibule of honour, a shield of the Fatherland, and three altars: Protestant, Jewish and Catholic.
two memorial trails with explanatory panels (allow two hours) at the summit of the HWK.
Sicurani Chapel.

Reviews and comments

4.5 / 5
Based on 21 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.5 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.2 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
ludo68118
ludo68118

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 04, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A great hike..
With children aged 10 and 12 (who are quite sporty)
We got a little lost after point 8 (there were lots of leaves on the paths and they weren't visible), but that wasn't because of the poor description, it was because of autumn!
It was really nice to eat at the illuminated cross..
Lots of blockhouses and trenches... the children and we really loved it!

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kopferdami
kopferdami

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

The German section is very interesting. Worth doing again! However, the French section is nothing special...
Regarding the description, it should be noted in (3) that you should turn left towards Bastion and not right as mentioned. Another important point: the name of the saviour of the Sicurani chapel is nowhere to be found: it was my great-uncle, the priest of Moosch, who restored this chapel from ruin in the 1950s.
The Sicurani family thanked my great-uncle, photo available. This chapel used to be beautiful, but today it is enclosed in a metal cage.

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daniel06100
daniel06100

Overall rating : 3.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 11, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Parish specific to Brittany, very interesting hike. Do not rely too much on the GPX track

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GGrandclaude
GGrandclaude

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 13, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We started the hike right in the middle (as we couldn't access the La Croix Zimmermann cycle race car park)

I used the route by importing it onto my Garmin. At an intersection (not indicated by signs), I followed the route, which took me out of the loop, unlike the paper map... In short... a period of confusion (and checking on Basecamp, it's obvious). Next time, I'll check before setting off.

Otherwise, great route overall, except for my lack of mastery of track correction (electronic/paper), it's great.
Allow more than 4 hours (visit and exploration of the site) to see the whole site
I recommend it tar(star)star:

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Philibras
Philibras

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : May 19, 2019
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful, physically demanding hike. Allow an extra two hours for those who are curious, and don't forget your torch! There are lots of structures to visit, even off the trail, but watch out for ticks (I got two...). I did it on a rainy day, with a World War I atmosphere, magnificent spring colours, but slippery ground accentuated by steep slopes, ascents and descents.
A wonderful day.

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MGetBG
MGetBG

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 22, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Perfect, nothing more to add!

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PHILBESAC
PHILBESAC

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 23, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good

Very historic in relation to the German bunkers and trenches.

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Nicorando-FC
Nicorando-FC

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 14, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★☆☆ Average
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

The route is quite difficult to follow, as there are many paths and frequent changes in the signposting. I'm not sure I managed to follow it correctly, but there are bunkers and trenches everywhere—as long as you keep climbing, you're fine!

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norton750850
norton750850

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 23, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

Historical tour, a must-do

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styles
styles

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 17, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A beautiful hike to discover the remains of the Great War.

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randothierry70
randothierry70

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 30, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

On the map I downloaded, all the markers were off by "1" from the start. I just went back to the website and it looks like the error has been corrected.
I downloaded the GPS file and, in the end, it's two kilometres longer than expected.according to my notes, the error starts at the white illuminated cross (4.34 instead of 3.24 as indicated), the Siracuni chapel (8.62 instead of 6.89 as indicated) and the finish line (11.200 instead of 9.23 as indicated)
It's not a big deal, but it's good to take it into account for the duration of the walk (it took us 5 hours with stops to explore and have a snack, taking our time...)
Please note that when we did the hike on 15 August, after the old Bonnegoute Hunters' Cemetery (6), you have to take a small path on the right... but the woodcutters had piled up a bunch of logs... right on the path... so we had to search for it a bit... but we finally found it.
Otherwise, it was a very interesting, difficult but enjoyable walk.

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cels
cels

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 17, 2018
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

There are many intersections with forest paths, which makes the route a little difficult to follow, but we always manage to find our way back
The bridge over the stream (at the very start of the hike) is broken, but you can still cross.
The descent after the split rock is very rough (steep slope, slippery path, numerous fallen trees on the path that need to be bypassed)

Don't hesitate to spend some time at the summit and visit the entire site.
In my opinion, after the Sicurani Chapel, it's much nicer to go via the Baratin shelter than via the almost non-existent ruins of Hartfelsenschloss.

Great hike, I loved it!

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gazok54
gazok54 ★

Thank you, Coreri, but signposting is not within our remit.
So the description and the IGN map weren't enough for you?

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coreri
coreri

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 25, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful hike, but still physically demanding, especially in certain sections. There are some wonderful things to see that take you back in time. Despite a detailed description, the signage in some places remains very unclear, so you should allow more time than the 4 hours and 5 minutes indicated. Despite all this, it remains a rewarding hike.

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paulo5767
paulo5767

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 20, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very beautiful route. It should be noted that the hike is relatively physically demanding, slippery in places on the descent, and not particularly recommended for casual hikers. We extended our trip with a visit to the trenches, fortifications and memorials at the top of the HWK.

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