Access: from Geneva, take the A40, then the A410 and exit 17. Continue towards Annecy-le-Vieux/Thônes; keep following signs for ‘Thônes’ and, just before reaching the village, turn right towards ‘Alex’. From Alex, follow signs for Villard-Dessous and drive up to Villards-Dessus; pass the car park on your left and go straight on, then turn left (signposted ‘Dents de Lanfon’) onto the Chemin des Dents de Lanfon. Given the state of the road following recent rain, I preferred to park at the first car park on the left, about 600 metres after the turn-off for Villards-Dessus. However, you can also use the car park further up on the left, at the end of the road open to traffic.
(S/E) From the car park (altitude 768m), follow the track – initially suitable for cars – to the second car park, then the section passable by jeep to the Chalet de l’Aulp Riant below. The track is quite steep. The route is a little tedious at first, but very soon after the Chalet des Gardes, the beauty of the forest will capture your full attention. There is a variety of tree species in resplendent colours; the forest is decked out in its autumn finery. You’ll pass the charming foresters’ hut (alt. 1,200 m). A few gaps in the trees already allow you to catch a glimpse of the magnificent cliffs of the Dents de Lanfon. You follow the Nant d’Alex stream (a tributary of the Fier, which, when in flood, can turn into a formidable torrent) for much of the ascent; in several places, the moss-covered rocks create a romantic atmosphere. As you climb higher, beech and maple trees become more prevalent, whilst the spruce trees become less conspicuous. The undergrowth is dotted with superb ferns, and a few boulders complete the scene; on some of them, spruce trees have taken root and grown, becoming one with the rocks. A few more hairpin bends and you leave, almost reluctantly, this forest with its unusual, mysterious atmosphere, emerging onto the Aulp Riant mountain pasture (altitude 1,450 m); ahead of you in the distance lies the Roche Murraz (Lanfonnet). To your left lie the Grandes Lanches with their impressive cliffs. The Col des Frètes lies at the far end of the valley on the right, and by continuing straight on, you can reach the Chalets de l’Aulp Riant above.
(1) Turn right and continue behind the lower Aulp Riant chalet (stay on the correct side of the fence). Follow a faint path heading towards the cliffs, through a mountain pasture where the livestock has made the walk less monotonous! The view of the Dents is superb. You’ll get closer to the cliffs as you cross a small wood (with some lovely trees, including green alders) and continue to the right, along the side of a large scree slope; the path continues due north. Gradually, as you draw nearer to the rock faces and the northern end of the Dents de Lanfon, you’ll be treated to a clear view of the valley floor and the Grandes Lanches. Shortly after the large vertical crevice in a cave, the path veers to the left and begins to climb more steeply in switchbacks (marked in red); you may need to use your hands in places (take care, as the rocks are slippery); continue along the hillside until you reach a very steep gully (already offering a fine view of the Tête à Turpin, amongst others). The next section then becomes more challenging; a few red paint marks help you find your way, but remain vigilant as rockfalls are frequent. The gully remains steep and slippery right to the end (another cave on the left); shortly after the top of the gully, on a flat section, you can already turn right to head directly for the Pointe Nord.
(2) I suggest you continue along the ‘path’ to the left. The route becomes less obvious (use the cairns to find your way) amidst exceptional scenery, following an unusual route across a small plateau dotted with sharp limestone pavement; pine trees almost reign supreme here, despite a few scattered maples and various shrubs. You climb a little further and reach the ridge.
(3) As you follow the summit ridge southwards, after crossing a rocky face, you have the option of reaching Pointe Centrale, at 1,824 metres, though this involves a few additional challenges, namely some short climbing sections and a more pronounced sense of exposure.
(4) Retrace your steps.
(3) Take the path that climbs to the left, just before a grassy area. You’ll follow the ridge northwards (with some lovely views over the lake, the Annecy basin and the Jura; be careful, the cliffs are vertiginous) and reach the foot of a small rock face, with a fissure-like gully to the left; climb a few metres (a few easy climbing moves) and continue due north. You’ll soon reach the Pointe Nord with its wooden cross, at 1,681 metres (it’s still standing thanks to two cables!); lovely views of Annecy, Mont Veyrier, Mont Baron, the Salève, the Parmelan, the Tête à Turpin, the Grands Lanches, the Tournette…).
(5) For the descent, follow the path which descends more directly towards the Grandes Lanches and takes you back to the route you took on the way up.
(2) Take care in the couloir – the ground is very slippery. The rest of the route follows the reverse route (S/E).
