The Petite Ceinture in the 12th arrondissement and the village of Charonne

A very pretty urban route in the 12th and 20th arrondissements of Paris. You take the old Petite Ceinture railway line and then wander through passages and numerous flower-filled cul-de-sacs, particularly around Rue des Vignoles. The modern and austere Saint-Esprit church and the oldest and most charming church in Charonne provide two superb and contrasting touches of heritage.

This walk is part of a multi-day hike: La Petite Ceinture de Paris

Details

1065803
Creation:
Last update:
Last review:
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 7.77 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 20 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Easy

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 49 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 13 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 87 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 38 m
  • ⚐ Country: France
  • ⚐ District: Paris (75000)
  • ⚑
    Start: N 48.839205° / E 2.396116°
  • ⚑
    End: N 48.864971° / E 2.398951°
  • ❏
    IGN map(s): Ref. 2314OT
  • Hour-by-hour weather

Photos

Description of the walk

Starting point and access: Place Félix Éboué.
- Metro - Lines 6 and 8 (Daumesnil station). Take exit 2 Rue Claude Decaen.
- Bus - Lines 29, 46, 64 and 71.

On this route, you will cross aGR® or GRP® trail in some places. In the description below, the corresponding signposting is only mentioned when necessary.

(S) When you exit the metro station, go straight ahead to Place Félix Éboué, then Avenue de Daumesnil. Pass by the Église du Saint-Esprit (recommended visit).

(1) Immediately turn right onto Rue Cannebière. At the end, at the side of the church, turn left onto Rue Claude Decaen. Continue straight ahead downhill.

At the traffic lights, turn right onto Rue de Fécamp. At the next intersection, go straight ahead. At the end, turn left onto Rue des Meuniers. Cross Avenue du Général Bizot at the traffic lights, continue straight ahead, ignore the stairs on your right leading up to the footbridge and go down the stairs that lead to the old Petite Ceinture railway line.

(2) Then turn left and follow the old railway line along a paved path. Go straight ahead and cross Rue Claude Decaen, Rue de Picpus and Avenue de Daumesnil (on the right, you will see Place de la Porte Dorée).

Then walk along the small vegetable gardens on your left, which are located along the old Bastille railway line. Cross Rue de Montempoivre and Rue du Sahel and continue along the old railway line for about 150 m.

(3) As the path ends in a cul-de-sac further on, take the exit on the right and you will come out onto a cobbled street (Villa du Bel Air) at number 15. Follow this street to the right and walk along the fence of the old railway line on your right. At the end, turn left into Sentier de la Lieutenance. Go down a flight of steps, which will take you to Boulevard Soult. Turn left and follow the road for about 100 metres.

At number 101, turn left onto Sentier des Merisiers. Follow this narrow path to the end (half-timbered house). Then turn left onto Rue du Niger and, at the crossroads immediately ahead, turn right onto Villa du Bel Air.

At the old railway bridge, cross straight ahead (do not go under the bridge) and go down the steps on the right. Then cross Avenue de Saint-Mandée at the pedestrian crossing and go up the steps. Continue along Rue du Gabon (red and white signs). Cross Rue Montéra. At the end, turn left onto Rue de la Voûte and go under the Petite Ceinture bridge.

(4) Continue along the street as it turns left, then take thefirst left, the picturesque Impasse Canart. Retrace your steps and turn right onto Rue de la Voûte.

(4) When the street turns right, turn left and climb the stairs (Passage de la Voûte). Pass under a red arch depicting a cat and you will come out onto Cours de Vincennes.

Turn right and then left to cross the tram tracks. Then turn left and right to cross Cours de Vincennes at the traffic lights and then the tram tracks. Continue straight ahead on Rue du Général Niessel.

At the next intersection, note the only level crossing in central Paris on your right and turn left onto Rue de Lagny. Go straight ahead at the next two intersections and pass the Saint-Gabriel Church. Cross Rue Mounet Sully and continue for about 50 metres.

(5) Then turn right into Square Sarah Bernhardt. Walk past the obelisk. Shortly afterwards, go down the steps on the left and continue along a wide, shaded gravel path. Walk along a playground on your left, then turn right towards the toilets. Take a small lane that goes around a small stage decorated with a lyre player on the right. At the corner of this small building, turn right and leave the square.

Follow the street on the right (Rue de Buzenval is signposted further on). At the crossroads, turn left onto Rue de la Plaine. Then take the first right, Passage Maigrot-Delaunay (private road but open to pedestrians; note the colourful wall of a school). At the end, cross Rue des Grands Champs and follow it to the left.

After about 50 metres, turn right into Square Emily Dickinson. Cross the square, come out onto Rue des Ormeaux and follow it to the right. At the end, turn left and then right to cross Rue d'Avron at the pedestrian crossing, and follow it to the left. Turn into the first street on the right, Rue Planchat, and ignore Rue des Haies immediately on the right.

(6) At the crossroads, turn right onto Rue des Vignoles. Follow this street, taking your time to explore the charming perpendicular cul-de-sacs: Impasses Rolleboise and Poule on the right, then Impasse des Souhaits on the left.

Cross Rue de Buzenval, then turn left into Impasse Saint-Pierre and walk back to where you started. Continue along Rue des Vignoles, cross Rue de la Réunion, then Sentier de la Pointe on the left. Turn right into Impasse Satan (small garden at the end) and walk back to where you started on Rue des Vignoles.

At the T-junction, turn right onto Rue des Orteaux. After about 40 metres, turn right into Passage Dieu, which soon turns left. Go back along Impasse Saint-Paul and continue until you reach the end of the passage.

(7) Then turn left onto an unmarked street (Rue des Haies; cabaret theatre on the left). At the crossroads, turn right, cross Rue des Pyrénées and follow Rue des Orteaux. At the next traffic lights, turn left, cross Rue des Maraîchers, pass under the Petite Ceinture bridge and immediately turn left into Rue Courat.

When Rue Courat turns right, turn left onto Rue Albert Marquet. At the next intersection, go straight ahead onto Rue Florian. Take thefirst right, Rue Galleron. When this turns left, continue straight ahead, go down a flight of steps, walk along a small sports field on your right and follow a cobbled alleyway (Passage des deux Portes).

At the end, turn left and follow Rue Saint-Blaise slightly uphill with the Saint-Germain de Charonne church in plain view. Cross Rue de Bagnolet and climb the steps leading to the foot of the church (recommended visit).

(8) Opposite the church entrance, you will find the entrance to the adjoining cemetery on your left. Go up a paved path and turn into thefirst path on your left. Note the plaque on your left in tribute to the federates who were shot in 1871. At the end of the path, turn right. At the opposite corner, turn right again and walk past the statue of Bègue dit Magloire. Continue straight ahead and you will find the exit on the left (note the lovely view of the church on the right).

Follow the unmarked cobbled lane to the right. At the end, turn left onto Rue des Prairies. Follow this street, ignoring all the side streets. When you reach Place Émile Landrin, turn right, cross Rue de la Cour des Noues and continue along Rue du Cher. At the T-junction, turn left onto Rue Belgrand until you reach Place Gambetta (cross the street at the traffic lights for direct access to the metro) (E).

To return home:
- Metro - Lines 3 and 3bis.
- Bus - Lines 26, 60, 61, 64, 69 and 102.

Waypoints

  1. S : km 0 - alt. 51 m - Daumesnil metro station - Place Félix Éboué
  2. 1 : km 0.2 - alt. 47 m - Église du Saint-Esprit (Paris)
  3. 2 : km 0.99 - alt. 44 m - Petite Ceinture in the 12th arrondissement - Entrance
  4. 3 : km 2.24 - alt. 52 m - Petite Ceinture in the 12th arrondissement - Exit
  5. 4 : km 3.06 - alt. 45 m - Rue de la Voûte x Passage de la Voûte
  6. 5 : km 3.9 - alt. 50 m - Sarah Bernhardt Square
  7. 6 : km 4.87 - alt. 58 m - Rue Planchat x Rue des Vignoles
  8. 7 : km 6.18 - alt. 61 m - Passage Dieu x Rue des Haies
  9. 8 : km 6.9 - alt. 73 m - Église Saint-Germain-de-Charonne (Paris)
  10. E : km 7.77 - alt. 87 m - Place Gambetta (Paris)

Notes

Good walking shoes are sufficient for this urban route.

Toilets and water points in public gardens (shown on the map). Bars, restaurants and shops along the route.

The route takes you through many dead-end streets and narrow alleys lined with houses: please be discreet and respectful.

A detailed map is required (at least the one accompanying this description).

Opening hours of public spaces:
Petite Ceinture in the 12th arrondissement:
Opening hours: 8 a.m. on weekdays; 9 a.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
Closing time: 5pm to 8.30pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Square Sarah Bernhardt:
- Opening hours: 8 a.m. on weekdays; 9 a.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing time: 5.45pm to 9.30pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Emily Dickinson Square:
- Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. on weekdays; 9:00 a.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing time: 5pm to 8.30pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.
Charonne Cemetery:
- Opening hours: 8:00 a.m. on weekdays; 8:30 a.m. on Saturdays; 9:00 a.m. on Sundays and public holidays.
- Closing time: 5.30pm or 6pm depending on the season. See detailed opening hours.

Hike completed twice by the author, the first on 8 May 2018, the second on 15 December 2020.

Worth a visit

- Church of the Holy Spirit (1935), Byzantine-inspired, built entirely of concrete (1).

- Gardens and railway wasteland on the former Bastille railway line, parallel to the former inner ring road (3).

- Sentier des Merisiers after . At no more than one metre wide, this is undoubtedly the narrowest street in Paris.

- The only level crossing in Paris, for RATP maintenance services, Rue de Lagny, between (4) and (5).

- Rue des Vignoles and its charming perpendicular cul-de-sacs, between (6) and .

- The Passage Dieu, after , which follows the Impasse Satan...

- The Saint-Germain de Charonne church (12th-17th centuries) (8). From the outside, perched high up, it looks like a village church. The interior is sober, with beautiful ribbed vaults. It was in this church that the final scene of Georges Lautner's cult film Les Tontons flingueurs was shot in 1963.

- Charonne Cemetery, adjacent to the church (8). Several famous people are buried here, including Bègue dit Magloire (supposedly Robespierre's secretary), Gauthier and Vincent, sons of André Malraux, and actress Emmanuelle Riva.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 43 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.8 / 5
Route interest
4.4 / 5
MARCHOIS
MARCHOIS

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 15, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A short route full of interesting sights leading to the village of Charonne, its church and cemetery.
But there's no point in finishing the route via Rue de la Prairie Vert Gambetta.
I took the livelier Rue de Bagnolet and ended up at the Alexandre Dumas metro station.

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Patolihen
Patolihen
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 30, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A short but very enjoyable walk.
I really enjoyed the disused railway line, the cul-de-sacs and, finally, the Charonne neighbourhood, which still has a slight village feel to it.
Close to Père Lachaise, we took the opportunity to visit some people we like;

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boucheryml
boucheryml

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 26, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful, well-documented walk. Unfortunately, due to recent bad weather, the section of the inner ring road was closed to walkers. We enjoyed visiting the two churches, which were very different but equally interesting.

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nanouyaz
nanouyaz

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 30, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Pleasant, varied walk. Thank you

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Maury BUCHERE
Maury BUCHERE

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 18, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike, definitely worth discovering. Magnificent locations, very well-explained route. Would do it again. Very pleased with this discovery. Thank you

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Françoise. L
Françoise. L

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 15, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A lovely little route, pleasant and peaceful. Thank you very much

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Berjac
Berjac

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 13, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A varied route that is easily accessible by public transport. For the end, we did a variation: from the church in Charonne, we reached the Porte de Bagnolet metro station via Square Antoine Blondin and the gardens of the Hospice Debrousse with the Pavillon de l'Ermitage.

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Kalo
Kalo

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 29, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very pleasant walk at the end of summer.

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Bouver
Bouver

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 06, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A charming route between the inner ring road of the 12th arrondissement and the cobbled streets of the 20th. Very pleasant in good weather.

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Yannick Barbeau
Yannick Barbeau

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 11, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant short walk with lots of flower-filled cul-de-sacs. At Avenue St Mandé, the gate to the inner ring road was open, so we continued on and crossed the Cours de Vincennes. On the way back, the gate was closed, but luckily there was a small staircase on the right leading back to Avenue St Mandé.

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Jean-louis R.
Jean-louis R.

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Exit the inner ring road at the Villa du Bel Air, cross Avenue de Saint Mandé and continue along Rue du Gabon
otherwise, the inner ring road is closed between these two points

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Pacamoun
Pacamoun

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 18, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

For my first time using it, it was a complete success. The description is extremely accurate, and it's almost impossible to get lost, to the point where the map is almost useless. Well done to the writer. This itinerary blew my friends away, as it offers a complete change of scenery in the heart of Paris.

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Netra
Netra ★

Hello Corine, and thank you for your feedback.

The sections of the Petite Ceinture are being opened gradually, and I plan to extend the sections on the old line as they are opened to the public. Thank you for letting me know!

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Corinne Tutin
Corinne Tutin

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 07, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The hike is very good, but I would start at the inner ring road at Porte de Charenton and include a visit to the Church of the Holy Spirit, which is very interesting, on another route in the 12th arrondissement to avoid walking through streets that are not very interesting at the start of the 12th arrondissement.
The hike needs to be updated because we will soon be able to go further along the inner ring road to the Jardin de Charonne.
(It should be noted that the official exit is currently Villa Bel Air, but it is possible to go past the barrier when it is open and continue beyond the Cours de Vincennes, although this is not permitted).
The visit to the streets of Vignoles Saint Just and the church of Charonne is very good.

Note that the southern part of this walk could start at Bibliothèque, cross the Seine, go through the Jardin de Bercy and follow the GR 36 to Porte de Charenton

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Audylle
Audylle

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 31, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A bucolic stroll through the village of Charonne. Pretty, peaceful and easy. This is the Paris we love. There were four of us and everyone enjoyed it. You can continue on to visit the Père-Lachaise cemetery.

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