The Grotte de Pagès and the Roc de la Chapelle

On the heights of the Doucette valley, discover a Camisarde cave, the Grotte de Pagès, then climb to the Roc de la Chapelle, a sheer drop overlooking the Boisseson valley, before descending to the banks of the Gardon de Saint-Jean.

Details

2025136
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 15.40 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 55 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 528 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 528 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 453 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 156 m

Description of the walk

In Thoiras, park in the small car park on the left-hand side of the road, near the information board about local hikes. This route is marked in yellow throughout.

(S/E) The "Thoiras" sign is located in the small car park. Follow the small road towards Laudernet. Just before reaching the D57, go straight up towards Les Curières on an old road.

(1) In front of the property gate, follow the path on the left. Further on, turn left, ignoring a path on the right, and you will soon come to a wide track.

(2) Follow it to the right. At the fork shortly afterwards, keep right and ignore a path on the right further on. The path turns right as it crosses the Ruisseau de la Doucette stream. Further on, ignore a shortcut that goes straight towards the road and turn left to reach the "Lauderney" signpost.

(3) Follow the road to the right towards La Frégière. You will reach the "La Frégière" signpost at a stream (the Valat de la Frégière).

(4) Turn left onto a path towards the Grotte de Pagès for a round trip. This route is also marked in yellow. Ignore a path that leads straight ahead at a hairpin bend to the left.

(5) Shortly afterwards, be careful not to cross a small stone dam at a blue mark on the ground and follow the path to the right (it is easy to make a mistake by going straight ahead). After a very steep climb, you will reach the entrance to the cave. Entry is free but requires the appropriate equipment (caution).

(6) Then return to the "La Frégière" marker via the same route as on the way there.

(4) Follow the small road on the left towards Pagès.

(7) Cross this pretty hamlet (beautiful traditional houses and beautiful tree trunks). Further on, at the "Pagès" signpost, turn left onto the road towards Roc de la Chapelle.

(8) About 350m further on, follow the path on the left, which climbs gradually. Go through a metal gate, then a second one directly above the hamlet of Pagès below. Further on, the slope becomes steeper. At a path that branches off to the left (ignore it), the trail begins to descend. Arrive at the "Roc de la Chapelle" signpost.

(9) Turn left towards the viewpoint for a round trip. The path climbs gradually at first, then steepens sharply to reach the viewpoint towards Saint-Jean-du-Gard and the Corniche des Cévennes. Descend to the "Roc de la Chapelle" signpost.

(9) Turn left and follow the path towards Serre la Fond. Pass an old lime kiln (information panel). Ignore a path on the left further on. Pass through a wooden barrier and continue straight ahead on the path, which turns into a wide track. Pass the Rocher des Camisards (information panel). At the bottom of the track, go through a metal gate and you will see the signpost for "Serre la Fond".

(10) Follow the road to the right towards La Doucette. After about 100 metres, leave the road and take a path on the left. Cross a stream (the water level varies depending on the weather). When you reach the signpost for "La Doucette", follow the signs for Thoiras. The path soon turns sharply left, crosses a stream and arrives at the edge of the Ruisseau de la Doucette at a ford (this stream is often dry, as the water is diverted by a small canal that can be seen upstream).

You will arrive in front of a private property. Follow the path that descends to the right. On the right, the Ruisseau de la Doucette deepens to form a natural reservoir fed by a small waterfall.

(11) Take the very steep path that leads to the railway bridge. Follow the railway line to the left until you reach La Boriette station and the signpost of the same name. Cross the railway line and follow the road to the right towards La Clastre. Further on, cross the Ruisseau de la Doucette.

Follow the path that veers left at a private property to get closer to the Gardon de Saint-Jean. It is easy to reach the edge of the Gardon by turning left off the path. The path veers away from the Gardon to climb to the right and reach a footbridge over the railway line.

(12) Continue along the path at the edge of the cliff overlooking the Gardon and arrive at the "le Clastre" marker. Follow the direction of Puech. The path climbs steadily. Further on, ignore a path on the right and start descending to reach a small road (barrier).

(13) Make a short detour to the left to the temple, then return along the same road to reach Thoiras (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 217 m - Hiker car park
  2. 1 : km 0.56 - alt. 246 m - Path on the left
  3. 2 : km 1.71 - alt. 330 m - Track on the right
  4. 3 : km 2.91 - alt. 346 m - Road on the right
  5. 4 : km 3.27 - alt. 340 m - Round trip to Pagès Cave
  6. 5 : km 3.75 - alt. 357 m - Path on the right
  7. 6 : km 4.04 - alt. 453 m - Pagès Cave
  8. 7 : km 5.81 - alt. 266 m - Pagès
  9. 8 : km 6.53 - alt. 254 m - Path on the left
  10. 9 : km 8.42 - alt. 391 m - Round trip to Roc de la Chapelle
  11. 10 : km 10.92 - alt. 225 m - Road on the right
  12. 11 : km 12.41 - alt. 164 m - Path to the railway bridge
  13. 12 : km 13.28 - alt. 169 m - Footbridge - Gardon de Saint-Jean (rivière) - Affluent du Gardon
  14. 13 : km 14.75 - alt. 212 m - Round trip to the temple
  15. S/E : km 15.4 - alt. 217 m - Hiker car park

Notes

Moderate to difficult walk: No dangerous paths on this route, but a succession of ascents and descents, some quite steep, right to the end.

Worth a visit

Discover more hikes in this area with a description or the Visorando app here

Some photos here

From 1686 onwards, Camisard preachers would visit this temple carved into the rock, inviting the inhabitants of Sainte-Croix de Cadarles to come and hear them. The cave could hold around twenty people, but it may also have served as a refuge or storehouse for the Camisards, like many caves in the region.

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 32 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.9 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.9 / 5
Route interest
4.3 / 5
Claude 2 Nîmes
Claude 2 Nîmes

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 17, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

For me, it's another beautiful walk that's very easy to follow thanks to the markings and the GPS route.
It's true that the climb to the "cave" is of little interest.
The little hamlet of Pagés is quite simply magnificent in its natural setting.
I'd like to take this opportunity to extend my warmest thanks to the people who clear the undergrowth and maintain the paths and tracks, which makes the walks comfortable and safe!
Really BRAVO.

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Diddan
Diddan

Overall rating : 4.5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 19, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Walk carried out with the visorando circuit GPS.

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langoat
langoat

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

This is a pleasant walk, with no difficulties apart from the climb up to the cave - we were lucky enough to see the Cévennes train pass by when we were close to the track, and the end of the route is pleasant with views over the Gardon - we started the walk from the town hall car park and the crèche.
We started the walk from the car park near the town hall and the crèche.
thank you for this trail

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CloGil
CloGil

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 27, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A pleasant walk with lovely shady paths, which I imagine can be done in warmer weather than this November.

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Clem Dlh
Clem Dlh

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 10, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Very busy route : No

The route is easy to follow but of little visual interest.

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Patrick Mortier
Patrick Mortier

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Moderately difficult route, but lacking in views and scenery. Lots of undergrowth, which is appreciated in the heat.

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BLUESEA
BLUESEA

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

At the start of this trail, we had to leave the GPS route for 200m, but we soon found it again as there was no other choice. The trail is pleasant and fairly shady, but the climb up to the Pages cave is tough with slippery fallen leaves on the stones. You can enter the cave, but there is nothing to see, except for speleologists as it goes down to 40 metres, but you need to be equipped.The view from the rock of the chapel is worth the diversions.a little hesitation when you have to climb the embankment to reach the railway line, which you have to walk along on the left for 300m before returning to the circuit.a very pleasant circuit, a little difficult because of its length, 15kms.

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marie-maia
marie-maia

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 20, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A lovely, shady route, easy to follow as it is signposted in yellow. The climb up to the cave is a little rough but not too difficult and the same goes for the descent in dry weather. A pleasant stop on the banks of the Gardon in an area where the banks are on a large, gently sloping stone slab.

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PIERRE MONNIER
PIERRE MONNIER
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 19, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A fine medium-sized hike, with no difficulties. Quite a steep climb to reach the cave. Some rocky sections. Some pleasant, well-shaded paths. Lots of stones and a little tarmac. The Gardon de Saint-Jean is a beautiful river.
PP and MM

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bernard randonneur
bernard randonneur

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 10, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Well done tour, very pretty at the time
We made a small diversions at the end to see the temple and Thoiras castle.

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Klodeko
Klodeko

Overall rating : 4.5 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Done with my dog in just over 3 hours, taking advantage of the swimming along the streams and in the Gardon 🐶💦 We saw the little Cévennes train go by 🚂.
No difficulties. Just a good steep out-and-back to get to the Pagès cave, which turns out to be a simple gallery about ten metres long.
A bit of tarmac and not much of a view, but the undergrowth means you can walk in the cool.

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TRESCOL
TRESCOL

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Nov 12, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Lovely walk starting from the village of Thoiras, took advantage of being there to visit the village, note the beautiful temple adjoining a beautiful property, possibility of seeing the castle by descending through the bread oven, small gate.
From there, a fine view of the Cévennes, passing over the railway line linking Anduze to Saint Jean du Gard.
Beautiful views over the Salindrinque valley.
A sportive hike.

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Axel V
Axel V

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 11, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

A quiet and pleasant walk, although I don't think it adds much visually apart from the view of the chapel rock and the access to the river, which was very pleasant towards the end of the route.
Access to the cave isn't easy, but I don't find it of any interest, at least not for those looking for a geological aspect.
Most of the route is under woodland, which in hot weather is much appreciated!

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Olier
Olier

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 21, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

We started before 7am and were all alone on the trail, which is very shady and therefore pleasant.
The description and route are perfect, with no difficulties apart from the 2 slightly tougher climbs to the cave and the viewpoint, both without the 5h and 6h breaks, with the dip at the end.
It's not exactly spectacular, but the views are beautiful and the shade is very much appreciated at this time of year, so I'd recommend it.

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pagueri
pagueri

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 19, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Walked on 18/07/21, in a heavy heat wave. Fortunately, much of the route is in undergrowth, and near the finish you are rewarded with a swim in the Gardon
As this was our 2nd visit, we didn't follow the route exactly as indicated: at the hairpin between points 4 and 5 (so turn right going up, or left coming down from the cave), we continued straight on (due east). You then follow a good track that curves north, turns S and then leads to a path that runs roughly north-west up the valley of a stream (the Valat de Ferrière, not visible). After 10-15 minutes, you reach a ridge path between the Tinaou rock and the Chapelle rock. Following this ridge to the left (west), it takes around ten minutes to reach a small path (very steep, cairned and poorly marked with green dots) that leads up to the Roc de Tinaou oppidum. From up there, there is a magnificent panorama over the valley below and part of the Cévennes. Descend along the same path (follow the markings and cairns), then pick up the ridge path heading east and follow it until you rejoin the normal route to the Roc de la Chapelle, at the junction about 300 m before point 9. From here, return to the signposted route. This variant is 16.5 km long and has a D+ of 600 m (including the climb to the cave). It is a little more strenuous than the classic route (because of the climb to the oppidum). You'll need a map, but it's really worth it for the panoramic view from the Roc de Tinaou, and the snack on the edge of the cliffs, watching the aerial acrobatics of the crows! We also avoided the road, which was very welcome given the temperature that day...
If you don't want to go to the cave, you can reach the oppidum by heading straight ahead at point 3, towards the Col de Rouquiès (signposted). At the pass, take the north-east path that leads to the foot of the oppidum, and then follow the path marked with green dots back to the route described above.

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