At Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, take the D428, which is also the route of the Way of St James (GR® 65). This road alone is worth the trip for its exceptional scenery. During the winter season, signs indicating "road closed, not cleared of snow" remain in place permanently. This is rarely the case, so ignore them if the weather permits. Follow the road for 15 km and park at Croix Thibault.
(S/E) Follow the Way of St James (GR®65), which branches off to the right of the road towards the Col de Bentarte. Pass a fountain just before the pass and, a little further on, leave theGR® by turning left to reach the pass.
(1) Take the HRP trail due east to the Col d'Arnostéguy.
(2) Opposite, you can see the path that climbs to the summit of Urculu. The view from the pass is impressive. Either climb straight up and follow the main trail, or halfway up, climb the switchbacks via small paths that are only visible at the last moment. Take the switchbacks on the left, which keep you closer to the main trail. Pass the rocks at the summit and veer left to reach the tower.
(3) From the tower, head north, first zigzagging between the sharp limestone pavement (cracked limestone expanses carved out by water) and then following the grassy ridge. In clear weather, you will quickly see your destination: a reservoir and the start of a track. In foggy weather, there are no markings or paths, so a compass is essential, or even better, GPS tracking on your smartphone. Reach the track.
(4) Follow the track to the Zinahatzu sheepfold or Urculu huts.
(5) Continue along the tarmac track leading to the huts until you reach the D428.
(6) At this point, there are two options.
In foggy weather, take the road on the left and return to the Col d'Arnosteguy and then to your car. This is a 4.7 km stretch of tarmac with no significant elevation gain.
Otherwise, follow the map, cross the road and head west down into the Oilaskoa valley.
Pass through a small sharp limestone pavement at the start, then descend through the grass and find a small brown dirt path to the Oilaskoa stream. Cross it and take a path on the right that climbs gently to the last building of the Cabanes d'Oilaskoa.
(7) Go around the building and join the track above. Turn left and stay on the main track until you reach the D428.
(8) Follow the D428 to the right until you reach the starting point at Croix Thibault (S/E).