Gorges de la Cère, from Laval-de-Cère to Laroquebrou

A pleasant but very long hike in the heart of nature, far from civilisation. 1,000 m of elevation gain. The Gorges de la Cère are very wild and steep-sided. They are only accessible on foot or by train. The hike is almost entirely in the shade and, as a result, the trees often hide the view. Best attempted in spring or autumn?

Details

144831
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 34.56 km
  • ◔
    Duration according to the author: 10 hrs 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Very difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: No
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 1,247 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 970 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 524 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 172 m

Photos

Description of the walk

Rating: "D+ 1h25" = approximate time in hours and minutes from the start, excluding stops.

(S) (D+ 0h00). Departure: Laval-de-Cère station. Exit the station to the right. Follow the road upstream (east). Cross the bridge.

(1) On the left bank, in front of the bakery, take the D29 tarmac road on the left (east). You are now on theGR®652(white and red markings). Keep to the right, do not take the road that goes down to the power station. (Untested alternative: take it and follow the yellow markings, which join theGR®). Pass several EDF buildings.

(2) At the high-voltage electricity pylon, take the dirt track that descends to the left (GR® sign).

(3) The yellow markings join theGR®. The path is almost level. A few information boards provide interesting facts.

(4) (D+ 1h05). At the fork, go up to the right.

(5) (1 hour 25 minutes). At the crossroads, signposted "Cargadou", turn left at a right angle.

(6) (1 hour 40 minutes). At the crossroads at the edge of a meadow, turn left at a right angle. Walk for just under 5 km, roughly along the contour line at the edge of the plateau, with the Cère valley below on the left (but not visible, at least in summer).

(7) (D+ 2h20). Do not take the path that goes up to the right, but continue straight ahead, more or less on the flat.

(8) (D+2h30). Descend to the left via the small "Sentier de la gare" (signpost) and follow a few gentle hairpin bends. Once you reach the valley, you will finally see the Cère. Start of the Lamativie sector.
Continue on flat ground as close to the water as possible. (Possible alternative route, not tested: Maurice Caldemaysou trail towards the waterfall).

(9) Cross the Ruisseau d'Escalmels stream via a footbridge next to the aqueduct. Continue on flat ground along the river.

(10) (D+ 3h 10). Take the bridge over the Cère to cross to the other bank (right). Then turn right onto the tarmac D81 (GR®652sign). Continue uphill on the D81 until you reach a dirt track on the right.

(11) (3h25 elevation gain). Follow this dirt track uphill to a spillway at the top of a penstock.

(12) (D+ 4h05). End of the Lamativie sector. Continue on flat ground along the path above the Cère valley for about 9 km, initially heading south-east and then quickly turning east, with a few circular elements. There is only one path, which is marked (white and red, reminder).

(13) (6h05 elevation gain). Take the small path on the right that descends towards the old Siran stop. Cross the Cère on the footbridge, then (left bank) go down the stairs on the left.

  • Follow the railway line downstream for a few metres. Go through the tunnel under the track and climb up the other side. Continue along the path to the left. The markings are unclear at this point. The path continues above the railway line.

(14) (D+ 7h05). After the Lasbordes Tunnel (information sign), climb a steep slope then turn left. Continue parallel to the railway line.

(15) (8h10 elevation gain). You will pass a mini golf course (back to civilisation!). Follow a tarmac road, which makes a wide bend to the left. When it makes a sharp right turn, continue straight on the path and join the D653 road.
(8h20) Finally, Laroquebrou! Fountains. Follow the D653 to the station (E).

Waypoints

  1. S : km 0 - alt. 172 m - Laval-de-Cère, SNCF railway station
  2. 1 : km 0.7 - alt. 172 m - Junction with the GR652 - Bridge over the - Cère (rivière)
  3. 2 : km 2.4 - alt. 287 m - High-voltage pylon
  4. 3 : km 2.89 - alt. 279 m - The yellow markings will guide you.
  5. 4 : km 4.78 - alt. 256 m - Fork — go up to the right
  6. 5 : km 5.68 - alt. 426 m - Carrefour Cargadou – on the left
  7. 6 : km 5.83 - alt. 443 m - Crossroads at the edge of a meadow – on the left
  8. 7 : km 10.41 - alt. 465 m - Fork in the road
  9. 8 : km 11.04 - alt. 467 m - Sentier de la Gare
  10. 9 : km 12.31 - alt. 272 m - Footbridge attached to the aqueduct
  11. 10 : km 14.22 - alt. 284 m - Bridge over the Cère, Lamativie
  12. 11 : km 15.1 - alt. 338 m - Dirt track to the right
  13. 12 : km 17.07 - alt. 414 m - Weir
  14. 13 : km 26.28 - alt. 411 m - Descent towards Siran
  15. 14 : km 29.12 - alt. 435 m - End of the Lasbordes Tunnel
  16. 15 : km 33.04 - alt. 459 m - Mini golf
  17. E : km 34.56 - alt. 454 m - Laroquebrou

Notes

Think about your safety: the route is wild, far from everything, enclosed, little used, and difficult for emergency services to access. There is no mobile phone signal on most of the route. The attached map shows emergency escape routes if necessary. Print it out before you set off! It is also displayed at both ends and in Lamativie.

Worth a visit

Information panels along the route are provided by the Cère Gorges Tourist Association. Thank you to them for this initiative and for marking out this beautiful route!

Nice length: 33 km. Nice elevation gain, around 1,000 m (I think the elevation gain of 1,692 m, calculated automatically by the website, is greatly overestimated). Total walking time: about 8 hours 20 minutes. With stops, allow 10 hours.

White-redGR®652markings. Well-maintained trail (footbridges, tunnels, railings). Very little traffic: no one (summer 2015), except on the outskirts of Lamativie.

The first part (2 hours 30 minutes) is fairly monotonous, flat in a deciduous forest with no visibility. From the descent to Lamativie (Sentier de la Gare) to the Halte de Siran (3 hours 30 minutes), it becomes more interesting. The most interesting part is the Siran-Laroquebrou section (2 hours 30 minutes).

The hike can be done in either direction; it will be easier in the opposite direction (Laroquebrou to Laval-de-Cère), which is downhill, but this would complicate the return journey by train to Laroquebrou.

Access:

  • By train to Laval-de-Cère or Laroquebrou; unfortunately, the intermediate stations (Lamativie, Siran) are not served (but it seems that a group can be dropped off there by prior arrangement with the SNCF).
  • By car to Laval-de-Cère, Lamativie bridge, or Laroquebrou.

Refreshments:

  • In Laval-de-Cère, bakery open from 7.30am.
  • In Laroquebrou, all shops.

No supplies along the way, except for the numerous streams.

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 9 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.6 / 5
Route interest
4 / 5
Calou51
Calou51

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 31, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Not a soul in sight on this beautiful midsummer Monday, except for two or three families around the Lamativie bridge, accessible by car. In terms of nature and solitude, you're certainly in for a treat, but this almost exclusively forest route offers little variety and few views of the gorges. In fact, the landscape seems more remarkable when seen from the train...
The section between Laroquebrou and the Siran stop is the most interesting. There's no point in going any further if the appeal of the landscape is your main motivation: between Siran and Lamativie, the scenery is perfectly uniform, flat and, to be honest, endless. There are no viewpoints.
According to the signs, from the Siran stop, the road is accessible to the north in 40 minutes (at Le Teulet) and to the south in 1 hour 30 minutes (Lasbrairies). It took me 2½ hours to reach Laroquebrou from this stop, and 11½ hours in total, including perhaps 2½ hours of stops for meals, reading or photos.
I think it's a good idea to take the train on the way there to avoid being tied to your return schedule. I don't know where some people saw water sources, as I didn't notice any. There are even fewer places to eat: stock up at the mini-market in Laroquebrou. In Laval-de-Cère, the grocery store is closed and there is only one restaurant left. There is a pharmacy in each of these two villages.
Above the Lamativie power station, at the top of the enormous pipe that supplies it with water, it seems possible to pitch a tent. Especially since you are roughly halfway between Laroquebrou and Laval-de-Cère, and you wake up to what is undoubtedly the most beautiful view of the route...
I forgot my walking stick, and afterwards I realised that it would have been more of a hindrance than anything else, as at least 95% of the route is very easy. The few very steep sections, all located between Laroquebrou and Siran, are equipped with handrails. Otherwise, you need to be particularly careful when the path runs alongside small ravines. From the Siran stop to Laval-de-Cère, there are no difficulties of this kind.
The GR markings are impeccable. However, be careful if you use the "official" description of the Cère gorges, as the actual route takes a detour along the winding road from the Lamativie bridge (in the Laval-de-Cère - Laroquebrou direction) which is not mentioned on the map, and this may come as a surprise.
The big highlight of this route is the numerous information panels along the way, describing hydroelectric power, railway developments and the history of glassmaking in the gorges: very interesting.

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leonisa14
leonisa14

Overall rating : 3 / 5

Date of your route : May 29, 2023
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Very busy route : No

A round trip hike from Laroquebrou (a very pretty village) covering around twelve kilometres. Rather disappointing as there is virtually no view of the river and gorges, which quickly becomes boring. At times, the path is very narrow with a steep drop. Take care. Good shoes and walking sticks are essential as the rocks are very slippery after recent rains. We didn't meet anyone.

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shapiro
shapiro
• Edited:

@_LéaC_: From memory, in Siran and around Lamativie, downstream from the bridge, it should be possible to pitch a tent. It's fairly flat and grassy.

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_LéaC_
_LéaC_

Hello,
I would like to hike the entire GR 652 trail in July. Is there anywhere I can pitch a tent on this section before Laval-de-Cère?
Thank you in advance.

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shapiro
shapiro

Well done @mattb34, congratulations!

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mattb34
mattb34

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 19, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

I completed this hike in "trail" mode, taking 3 hours and 15 minutes from station to station for 35.5 km and 900 metres of elevation gain. Overall, the route is good, but in my opinion, it lacks views of the gorges.
The first part to Lamativie is almost entirely in the forest, while the second part to Siran on the south-facing slope is varied but rather monotonous. Finally, the last part to Laroquebrou is more varied with beautiful views of the gorges. It is worth noting the improvements that have been made to facilitate progress.
However, a major downside is that there are lots of tree trunks and branches on the path, and you are regularly stopped by a trunk to climb over or trees to slalom around. A chainsaw would not go amiss in some places.
On the other hand, the wild side of the gorges is omnipresent. For those seeking solitude, this is pure nature far from civilisation. I only came across four people on the route, mainly on the last section.

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ciol46
ciol46
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

I did the hike in winter and didn't see a soul the whole way. The route may be a bit monotonous, but you're really surrounded by nature. There are a few tricky sections on icy wooden footbridges and in flooded tunnels. The historical information boards dotted along the route are very well done and add an extra dimension to the hike.

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SevGR
SevGR

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Feb 26, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

An interesting and varied hike in the opposite direction: Laroquebrou to Laval-de-Cère.
Useful route map and description, even though the trail is well marked.
Water available throughout the route.
Quite a wild hike (alone throughout the route).
The railway history adds an extra attraction.
However, from station to station, it is 38 km and 650 m of elevation gain: good shoes and strong legs are necessary to ensure you can return by train.

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Palabre
Palabre

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 13, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : Not used / Not applicable
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A superb solo hike, completed in 8½ hours, including stops, from Laval de Cère to Laroquebrou in good weather. Many thanks to the trail markers and developers who make the hike so much easier. Sure-footedness, stamina and experience are required. Walking sticks are recommended.
The description of the first part seems a little unfair to me: although the forest limits the view, the streams and the song of the Cère create a delightful woodland atmosphere on very comfortable balcony paths.

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Stéphane GUILLAUME
Stéphane GUILLAUME

I did it in the direction of Laroquebrou/Laval de Cere. I started above the village, for a total of 36 kilometres.
Congratulations to your association for the signposting and description of the construction of this route. I took photos of all the signs so that I could read them after my hike.
Kind regards

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le siranais
le siranais

Thank you for your message. I helped promote this trail and am responsible for marking it in the Cantal section. I'm delighted that you mentioned the information boards, which were installed on the initiative of the Gorges de la Cere association, a group of volunteers who love to help people discover and share the riches of their natural heritage. The GR 652 has character, and that's a good thing. Which direction did you walk it?
Guy Mespoulhes, member of CDRP 15, trail marker and mayor of Siran

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shapiro
shapiro

Thank you, Stéphane. I'm glad you liked my route. I'll add your point of caution to the description.

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Stéphane GUILLAUME
Stéphane GUILLAUME

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 23, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hello, hike done in trail running mode: very beautiful walk, very shady, ideal in hot weather. Trail follows the gorges in their entirety and tells the story of the construction of the railway through explanatory signs. Sometimes there is a lack of diversity in the landscapes, but this is not important because it is beautiful (except at the beginning).
Completed the circular route in 6 hours and 15 minutes. Point to note: there is no water on the route. I took 2 litres and it wasn't enough.
Thank you, Visorando.
Stéphane

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neliz15
neliz15

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 17, 2017
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very enjoyable hike, completed over two days. There are no refreshment stops along the route.
Allow a little extra time to catch the train, as the last few kilometres involve quite a lot of climbing to avoid the railway tunnels.

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bibi
bibi ★

Thank you for taking care of this.
Kind regards

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