In Vielha, take the C-28 towards Lleida. Cross the Bonaigua Pass, begin the descent and park in the car park on the right-hand side of the road near the Peülla chairlift departure station: plenty of spaces available, motorhomes permitted.
(S/E) Head towards the building by crossing a small concrete bridge, then turn immediately left onto a grassy track that descends gently towards the Riu de la Bonaigua, following several easily visible signposts. Cross a footbridge to join the trail.
Yellow markings throughout the entire walk
(1) Continue along the path, following the signs for “Estany Gerber – Refugi Mataró” on the signpost. The route follows the contour lines almost exactly, with a few short ascents and descents, then the path straightens out considerably and winds its way round a rocky outcrop in a series of hairpin bends. You’ll soon reach the Estanyola de Gerber, the first of many lakes to discover along the route.
(2) Stop to take in the beauty of this wild spot, then continue along the path, which crosses several rocky outcrops before emerging onto flatter ground where you’ll need to cross large, weathered rock slabs. You’ll reach a junction marked by a signpost.
(3) Continue to the left, ignoring the path on the right which quickly ends in a dead end. You’ll reach the Estanyet de Gerber de Baix, a small lake which is, unfortunately, drying up. Walk along its left-hand side and climb up the short gully leading to the Estany de Gerber.
(4) Go round it to the east, continuing to follow the path which climbs further on in switchbacks to avoid the large rock face blocking the lake to the south.
(5) This point marks the start of an imposing scree slope, which constitutes the main difficulty of the hike. Progress is difficult over rocks of varying sizes, some of which are unstable, where the markings are not easy to spot, although they are essential for finding your way. A few cairns provide invaluable assistance, particularly in the extremely steep final section where you’ll need to use your hands on several occasions. After this gruelling climb, the path becomes distinct again and leads to a new signpost, not far from Estany Llong, which can be seen on the left.
(6) Continue along the marked path through a magnificent landscape of scattered rocks, pine trees and lakes – some of them tiny – which act as mirrors for the surrounding peaks. Walk around Estany Llong and Estany Redó from a distance; you’ll be able to admire them better on the descent. Climb another steep section – short but challenging – then reach the next signpost marked ‘Refugi Mataró’.
(7) Continue in the direction indicated. After passing through a small grassy gully, the orange metal structure of the refuge comes into view on the rocky promontory overlooking Estany de l’Illa. Reach the junction with the path leading to the refuge.
(8) Leave the climb up to the refuge for later and carry on to the left to pass at the foot of the promontory. Cross a small, unnamed pass and head for the Estany Negre de Dalt, with its deep blue waters, nestled in a vast field of boulders at the foot of the Puis de Gerber.
(9) Climb down a short section and continue to follow the well-marked path to the signpost at the north-western corner of the lake, which marks the final destination of the walk.
(10) Turn back.
(9) Cross the passage again, this time taking a short climbing step, and return to the junction at l’Estany de l’Illa.
(8) Turn left onto a well-marked trail. Climb over a boulder, using your hands for support, then, immediately afterwards, head towards an old, rusty metal sign that stands out high up on the left. The final ascent is a bit rough and takes place over smooth slabs where you’ll sometimes need to use your hands for support. You’ll reach the Refugi Mataró, a cramped but spotlessly clean shelter that can accommodate around ten people.
(11) Don’t miss the breathtaking view of the Estany de l’Illa nestled at its feet, then carefully retrace your steps along exactly the same route, taking particular care when climbing the rock face you crossed earlier. Return to the junction.
(8) Follow the path back down the way you came up. Take care when crossing the rocky scree before Estany Gerber, as choosing the right route proves even more difficult on the descent: take the time to carefully spot the cairns and yellow markings before setting off. Then make your way back to the car park where you started (S/E).