In the Ardennes, on the smuggling trails

This hike will take you to the border valley of the Ruisseau du Bois Jean, which was once a hotspot for encounters, fraud and smuggling. The Baraque Laurent, the only one still standing, has now been converted into a lodge for groups. The other three huts have disappeared, but their ruins are still visible.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 16.03 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 5h 35 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 363 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 361 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 360 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 165 m

Description of the walk

Starting point: Gespunsart Church.

(S/E) Set off along Rue des Laquans, then turn right onto Rue Haute and join Rue des Waquignons. Turn left.

(1) At the fork, take the path on the right, Rue de Baransart, and head towards the fortified house.

(2) Continue in the same direction along the Chemin Rural de Bagimont until you reach a path leading uphill to the left.

(3) Take this path and, after a fork to the right, join the Chemin des Poteaux.

(4) Turn left and take the first right, then immediately left to descend into the valley of the Ruisseau du Hirdoux. Reach Pré Daru.

(5) Turn left and cross the Ruisseau du Hirdoux (a small tributary of the Ruisseau du Bois Jean), then follow a grassy path running along the left-hand edge until you cross the Ruisseau du Bois Jean.

(6) Cross the stream and continue leftwards to the site of the Baraque Léger, situated just after the Ruisseau de Flexa. Only a few paving stones remain visible on the ground.

(7) Take the path leading uphill opposite and, via a small track, descend to the left into the valley floor. Walk through the Vallon du Bois Jean to reach the ruins of the Baraque Cagneaux.

(8) Continue towards the Baraque Gérard, cross the stream via a small footbridge and reach the ruins of the hut.

(9) Keep heading in the same direction; at the fork, take the path on the right, pass in front of a pretty house and reach Baraque Laurent. This is the only Baraque that is still inhabited today and serves as a group lodge.

(10) Retrace your steps, ignore the path heading off to the right, and at the fork take the path on the right.
At the next fork, keep to the right again on a narrow path and turn right at the first opportunity to follow the Goulanru at a distance and climb up to the Chemin des Gardes.

(11) Turn left onto the Chemin des Gardes. This path, which overlooks the border in the distance, winds its way above the various valleys of the tributaries of the Bois Jean. Reach the Gorge Montal fire-fighting water reservoir.

(12) Continue along the Chemin des Gardes and, via a path on the right, reach the Route Forestière des Grandes Hazelles.

(13) Turn left towards the gate marking the boundary of the state-owned forest, then take the wide forest track opposite to the ruins of an old hunting lodge (altitude 337).

(14) Head down to the left to reach the village.

(1) Before Rue des Waquignons, turn right down a narrow lane to rejoin Rue des Laquans and the church (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 201 m - Gespunsart Church - Église Saint-Rémy (Gespunsart)
  2. 1 : km 0.5 - alt. 210 m - Rue de Baransart at the fork
  3. 2 : km 1.01 - alt. 240 m - Fortified House
  4. 3 : km 1.99 - alt. 318 m - Fork in the path
  5. 4 : km 2.48 - alt. 360 m - Chemin des Poteaux
  6. 5 : km 4.28 - alt. 235 m - Pré Daru
  7. 6 : km 4.8 - alt. 219 m - Bois Jean stream
  8. 7 : km 4.98 - alt. 215 m - Baraque Léger
  9. 8 : km 6.27 - alt. 183 m - Cagneaux Hut
  10. 9 : km 7.04 - alt. 165 m - Gérard’s hut
  11. 10 : km 7.53 - alt. 178 m - Baraque Laurent
  12. 11 : km 9.16 - alt. 263 m - Chemin des Gardes
  13. 12 : km 11.74 - alt. 259 m - Montal Gorge
  14. 13 : km 13.42 - alt. 346 m - Grandes Hazelles forest road
  15. 14 : km 14.58 - alt. 338 m - Former hunting lodge
  16. S/E : km 16.03 - alt. 201 m - Gespunsart Church - Église Saint-Rémy (Gespunsart)

Worth a visit

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 3 reviews

Reliability of the description
5 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.7 / 5
Route interest
4.3 / 5
sncf
sncf

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : May 02, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★☆☆ Average
Very busy route : No

Combined hike with the Dolimarts for a 21.5 km loop. Passing point 6 wasn't easy, at least not without getting your feet and ankles wet...

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Christian Cagnol
Christian Cagnol
• Edited:

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Apr 12, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed on Sunday 6 April in beautiful weather.
Crossing streams requires getting your feet a little wet, but it's nothing difficult.
Be careful at point 5: do not cross the Bois Jean stream. The description is clear, but the GPS track may be inaccurate and lead you to believe otherwise.
You can continue the walk to Hautes-Rivières, where you will find a hotel restaurant if you wish to take a break before heading back.

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Alex. GILLE
Alex. GILLE

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 01, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A beautiful hike that takes us back to the not-so-distant days of smuggling (coffee, chocolate, tobacco, etc.)
The "Léger" hut is no longer visible, nature has reclaimed its rights. The "Laurent" hut has been converted into a lodge, but you can picnic (tables and benches available) halfway along the route.
Please note: in heavy rain, some of the fords can be tricky!

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