Dijon, from the Valois to Art Nouveau

(S) From the "CHS Chartreuse" bus stop on line 12 of the Divia network, cross Rue de la Chèvre Morte and then Avenue Albert 1er to walk south along Boulevard du Chanoine Kir towards the left bank of the Ouche.

Walk along a short section of the "Promenade de l'Ouche" greenway. After enjoying this peaceful area where the Ouche enters Dijon, retrace your steps to enter the grounds of the Chartreuse de Champmol, now a specialist hospital.

Follow the signs to discover the Puits de Moïse (Moses' Well). Continue along the path to the west, which runs alongside the official entrance to the Puits de Moïse, to discover an old entrance to the Chartreuse. Head north, following the signs, to the church whose portal is decorated with five figures. Pass by an octagonal turret that served the oratory, then head back up to the old entrance gate on the road to Paris. Return to the north-east exit of the hospital to reach Rue du Faubourg Raines.

(1) Take Rue du Faubourg Raines. Follow this street. After passing the Chapelle Saint-Joseph Cottolengo (on your right), head towards Parc de l'Arquebuse by turning left onto Rue de Champmol. Use the south entrance, then enjoy the paths of this 19th-century garden to discover its plant and architectural heritage along the banks of the Raines stream.

(2) Leave the Jardin de l'Arquebuse via its northern entrance. On your right, you will come to the junction of Avenue Albert 1er and Rue de l'Arquebuse. Cross to the other side of the PLM railway line by passing under the bridge on the embankment between the two tracks of Rue de l'Arquebuse.

Turn right onto Rue Mariotte, which offers a beautiful view of Saint-Bénigne Cathedral.
Discover the cathedral and, at its north end, the remains of the former Saint-Bénigne Abbey and the surroundings of the Archaeological Museum. Take Place Saint-Bénigne between the cathedral and Dijon's only Romanesque church, Saint-Philibert, then walk past the foot of the Saint-Philibert bell tower and along Rue Danton to reach Place Bossuet.

(3) Once you reach the south side of the chevet of the Church of Saint-Jean (now a theatre), go to Place Bossuet and take the street of the same name. From Place Bossuet, you can visit a 17th-century parliamentary hotel at 1 Rue Monge (Hôtel Bouchu dit d'Esterno), which is now used as an exhibition and event venue by ICOVIL.

Pass in front of the two spires of Saint-Jean Church, now the Parvis Saint-Jean, home to the Théâtre National Dijon-Bourgogne. Then, at number 13, in front of a half-timbered house, you will find the Hôtel Catin de Richemont (15th century).
Continue along Rue Bossuet until it joins Rue de la Liberté, at the Miroir pharmacy. Here, at numbers 54, 56 and 58, you can admire a group of half-timbered houses from the second half of the 15th century (a medieval residence known as La maison aux trois visages, or "the house with three faces").

Continue along Place de la Libération for a 180° view of the Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy. From this large, semi-circular square, take Rue du Palais, which leads to the current courthouse. This was formerly the seat of parliament.

(4) Opposite the Palais de Justice, turn immediately left onto Rue Philippe Pot. At the junction with Rue des Bons Enfants, turn left and walk to number 4 to admire the façade of a parliamentary hotel (the Hôtel Lantin - late 17th century), now the Musée Magnin.

Retrace your steps, take Place du Théâtre, and take a look at this neoclassical building inaugurated in 1828. Then, taking Rue Vaillant, enjoy a beautiful view of Saint-Michel Church. Next, go around Saint-Étienne Church along its north side to visit the Rude Museum, where you can see the major work of the Dijon sculptor, "La Marseillaise".

When you reach the foot of Saint-Michel Church, take Rue Vannerie. At number 66, you can see a superb Renaissance residence with a watchtower (the Hôtel Bénigne Le Compasseur). It stands on the site of an old basket-makers' house; this guild gave its name to the street.
Retrace your steps.

(5) At the junction of Rue Vannerie and Rue Jeannin, turn right onto Rue Jeannin. At the junction with Rue Verrerie, turn right onto this street to explore this example of medieval streets, with its half-timbered houses. Glassmakers had been based here since the early 16th century.

Retrace your steps to reach Square des Ducs, where you can admire century-old trees. In the south-west corner is a statue of Philippe le Bon, Duke of Valois. In the opposite corner, you can see a superb Renaissance mansion from the second half of the 16th century: the Hôtel de Berbis.

Return to the junction of Rue Jeannin and Rue Verrerie and take Rue de la Chouette. At number 8, admire the Hôtel Vogüé, a superb parliamentary hotel from the early 16th century. At number 10, you will find a beautiful medieval house from the late 15th century, the Maison Millière.

Walk along the right-hand side of the church and cross the Chouette, the emblem of Dijon. You can make a wish while stroking it with your left hand. When you reach Place Notre-Dame, admire the curtain wall of the church decorated with fake gargoyles. At the bend, take Rue des Forges, a pedestrian street on your right.

At No. 38 on this street is a superb late 16th-century Renaissance residence with rich Renaissance decoration: the Maison Maillard. Next to it, at 40 Rue des Forges, is the Hôtel Aubriot, whose façade is decorated on the first floor with four twin semi-circular arches. At the end of Rue des Forges, you will come to Place Rude with its Fontaine du Bareuzé fountain (the figure above it is treading grapes, which gives it a "bas rosé" appearance).

(6) From Place Rude, turn right up Rue François Rude and then Rue Odebert. At the junction with Rue Musette, enjoy a beautiful view of Notre-Dame on your right. Continue up the street to Les Halles. Continue the route by turning left between Les Halles and the former fish market (now a brasserie). Turn around and walk around this building.

(7) After retracing your steps, turn right at the corner of a beautiful pharmacy and take the pedestrian street that leads to Place Grangier. Here, you will be transported to another era: Art Nouveau. Walk along the southern side of Place Grangier. At 1 Place Grangier, you will see an Art Nouveau building (1907).

At the junction with Rue du Château, admire the building at No. 9 Rue du Château. Its cut-away design gives it a unique place in the street's perspective. On the left is the Grande Poste, with the base of its former telegraph at the top. Continue along Rue de la Poste, where you will be greeted by an old triumphal arch gate: the Porte Guillaume.

Cross the square and admire the Darcy-Palace, which resembles a Haussmann-style music hall. The route passes by the beautiful Fontaine de la Jeunesse fountain. Cross the boulevard where the tram runs. Enter Square Darcy and take the south-southwest exit to return to Place Darcy, leaving the tram tracks on your left.

This discovery trail ends on Avenue Foch at the "Foch Gare" station (E), which serves La Chartreuse, the starting point of this trail.

Shortly after setting off, follow the green corridor.
This discovery trail starts and ends at a bus stop on line 12 of the Divia network .
It is also convenient to start from the "Foch Gare" station located at the foot of the bus network's commercial agency. Take line 12 towards Plombières and get off at the "CHS Chartreuse" stop.
Water points, toilets, shops and services are located along the route.

If you have followed this route, please send us your comments (descriptions, photos, etc.).

Hikers can access all the sources used by clicking on the Internet links (in blue on the website and the "Visorando" app):
I would like to take this opportunity to thank the organisations and their contributors who are the sources of the content for this "discovery trail":
1° This walk is the result of a trip organised by the association "Les cafés géographiques".
2. The City of Dijon website contains numerous links to documents of great interest.
3° Dijon is a city with a rich heritage. For further information, please visit the Tourist Office website.
4° Other sources are also indicated by links.

The Chartreuse de Champmol – Witness to the Valois (late 14th/early 15th century – 1 Boulevard Kir)

The charterhouse was founded by Philip the Bold, who wanted to make it the necropolis of the Valois of Burgundy.
Claus Sluter, the Duke of Burgundy's sculptor, who was originally from Holland, created three exceptional works there:
- A set of five figures adorning the church portal: a Virgin Mary, the Duke and his wife in prayer, Saint John the Baptist and Saint Catherine (sculptures completed between 1391 and 1393)
- Moses' Well, a monumental calvary erected in the centre of the great cloister, of which only the polygonal base with six standing statues of prophets remains today (completed in 1405)
- Finally, the Duke's tomb, completed in 1410 by Sluter's nephew and successor.

The tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy were in the church of Champmol. The dukes are buried in vaults under the choir of the church of Champmol. The cenotaphs of Philip the Bold, who died in 1406, then John the Fearless and Margaret of Bavaria were reconstructed in the 19th century and are now on display at the Dijon Museum of Fine Arts. (Sources: Dijon Museum of Fine Arts)

The Arquebuse Garden

The Knights of the Arquebuse settled here in 1543.
Founded in 1833, this garden ranks among the world's leading botanical gardens in terms of the number of plants it contains.

In addition to the many native and exotic plants,visitors can discover the meandering Raines stream, the Arquebuse pavilion (17th-18th century) with its Triton Fountain, the Temple of Love from the Château de Bessey-lès-Cîteaux (18th century), the sphinxes, the statue of Hercules slaying the lion, and the small Orangery (19th century).

The Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean railway line

After a period of "stagnation" following the French Revolution, the city seized its chance in the mid-19th century by fighting hard to secure the passage of the Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean railway line. This marked the start of unprecedented expansion: railway, industrial and military activity, the development of a university, etc. The city's population more than doubled in half a century. Neighbourhoods developed exponentially outside the city walls, leading to the dismantling of the ramparts at the end of the 19th century.

Since the launch of the Rhine-Rhône high-speed train, the Burgundian capital has been at the heart of a veritable railway hub.

Saint Bénigne Abbey (6 rue Danton)

It was founded in 535 by St Grégoire, Bishop of Langres.
To the north of the cathedral's chevet, near the main wing of the former abbey (now occupied by the Archaeological Museum), you will find a square. Here you can see the large arched windows, former windows of the Cluniac monastery dormitory, as well as sarcophagi from the Merovingian period.

Saint Bénigne Cathedral (late 13th century)

The main structure is built of Dijon stone. Yellow is the dominant colour, with frequent touches of pink. In the nave, you can see the full range of Dijon stone colours: pink, yellow and bluish-grey. Choir: Asnières stone (ochre whitewash in 1994).

Saint-Philibert Church (12th-18th century - Rue Michelet)

Its interior elevation, very sober, remains typical of Romanesque art. (Disused church)

The Hôtel Bouchu, known as the Hôtel d'Esterno - Parliamentary building (mid-16th century - 1 Rue Monge)

Parliamentary hotel built in 1641 between the courtyard and garden. It is the venue for exhibitions and events organised by ICOVIL (Institute for a Better Understanding of Urban History and Cities).

The Parvis St-Jean (mid-15th century - Rue Danton, Place Bossuet)

This is the home of the Théâtre National Dijon-Bourgogne.

The House with Three Faces – Medieval residence (second half of the 15th century / 54, 56 and 58, Rue la Liberté)
A group of half-timbered houses.

Place de la Libération and the Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy – Witness to the Valois

Place de la Libération, formerly a car park, was returned to pedestrians in 2006 and brilliantly redesigned by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte using Comblanchien limestone.

Originally a simple fortress built against the 3rd-century Gallo-Roman castrum, the palace was constructed from 1366 onwards by the first of the Valois dukes, Philip the Bold. The Bar Tower is the oldest part of the building. The Philip the Good Tower stands 52 metres tall.

On the death of Charles the Bold, the last of the Valois dukes, Burgundy was annexed to the Kingdom of France. It obtained a Parliament in 1480. This was followed by the construction of a hall to bring together the nobility, clergy and third estate, then the restructuring of the Palace, which became the Palace of the States of Burgundy.

The Palais de Justice - Parliamentary era (8 rue du Palais)
The current Palais de Justice was the seat of parliament from the early 16th century until the Revolution.

The Hôtel Lantin - Parliamentary Hotel (late 17th century)

This is now the Magnin Museum. Around a hundred private mansions were built between the 16th and 18th centuries, around the parliament and then throughout the city. They were intended to showcase the success of the various parliamentary families. Built with Burgundy stone in varying shades, these mansions have left a lasting mark on the old town centre of Dijon.

The Grand Théâtre (19th century - Place du Théâtre)

Inaugurated in 1828, the Grand Théâtre de Dijon, built according to the plans of Dijon architect Jacques Cellerier, is in the neoclassical style.

Saint-Etienne Church (8 Rue Vaillant, 1 Place du Théâtre)

The Rude Museum (8 rue Vaillant, 1 place du Théâtre)

This museum displays casts of works by Dijon sculptor François Rude.
The centrepiece of this collection is a life-size cast of the famous bas-relief from the Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, Le Départ des Volontaires de 1792 (The Departure of the Volunteers of 1792), commonly known as La Marseillaise.

Saint-Michel Church (15th–17th centuries / Place Saint-Michel)

It combines an initial Gothic composition with Renaissance décor.

The Hôtel Bénigne Le Compasseur – Renaissance residence (late 16th century – 66 Rue Vannerie)

This superb Renaissance residence occupies the site of an old basket-makers' house; this guild gave its name to the street. Note, among other things, the watchtower that stands in the centre of the façade. It is lit by a central window and by bull's-eye windows on the sides.

Rue Verrerie – Medieval residences

Glassmakers had been settled in this neighbourhood since the early 16th century by the Dukes of Burgundy. Most of these artists had their homes and workshops on Rue Verrerie and the adjacent streets, all located in the Notre-Dame neighbourhood.

The typical medieval house was built of wood, with stone, an expensive material, reserved for the ground floor to prevent the foundations from rotting.
The stone ground floor had one or more arches and a small, low door providing access to the shop and the upper floor.
The upper floors are corbelled over the street and structured by a timber frame. The projection of the floors above each other protects the fragile walls from the rain and enlarges the living space.

Square des Ducs de Bourgogne – Witness to the Valois (Place des Ducs)

This square is located behind the ducal palace. It is planted with century-old trees. In its south-west corner, you can see a statue of Philip the Good. It is made of Pouillenay stone and was sculpted by Henri Bouchard.

The Hôtel de Berbis – Renaissance residence (second half of the 16th century – 16 Place des Ducs)
The view from Place des Ducs allows you to admire this residence with its superb corner watchtower.

The Hôtel Vogüé – Parliamentary residence (early 16th century – 8 rue de la Chouette)

Like the Hôtel Lantin, this is a parliamentary mansion that followed the establishment of a parliament in Dijon in 1480. It is considered the finest example of its kind. The mansion is in the classical style, with a door made of pink Dijon stone, restored in Rose de Bourgogne. The courtyard is a veritable open-air salon, richly decorated in pure Renaissance style.

Maison Millière – Medieval residence (late 15th century – 10 rue de la Chouette)

Named after the family that prospered from the cloth trade.
The layout of this residence gives a good idea of the correlation between trade, crafts and architecture: on the ground floor, the workshop opened onto the street through an archway with a small door, while the upper floor, cantilevered over the street, served as accommodation for the craftsman's family.

The carved owl - (on the west buttress of Notre-Dame)

The name Rue de la Chouette dates back to the Middle Ages. An emblem of Dijon, tradition has it that when passing by, you should make a wish while stroking it with your left hand. Vandalised in 2001, it was restored using stone from Plombières-les-Dijon.

Notre-Dame Church (early 13th century - 1 Place Notre-Dame, Rue de la Chouette)

"Notre-Dame Church is considered to be the most beautiful example of Burgundian Gothic architecture and one of the most original in design. Begun in 1230, it was completed in 1250.
On the façade, a double wall, a curtain wall ahead of its time, replaces the buttresses. It is decorated with imposing false gargoyles. They are all different and symbolise human vices and virtues with astonishing verve and the vigour of the Middle Ages. But they only have the spirit of the period, as most of them are copies made in the 19th century."

The Maison Maillard – Renaissance residence (late 16th century – 38 Rue des Forges)

Built in 1561 for Jean Maillard, mayor of Dijon, the Maison Maillard displays an astonishing range of Renaissance sculptures on its façade.

The Hôtel Aubriot (13th century, renovated in the 19th century – 40 rue des Forges).

Upstairs, the façade is decorated with four twin semi-circular arches resting on small columns. Each arch houses two windows. At the ends are two blind arcades.

Les Halles (19th century - Rue Odebert)

In place of the important Jacobins monastery, and following a decision taken in 1868, modern market halls were built to meet the space, hygiene and convenience requirements of the time. Reflecting the municipality's desire for modernisation, new technologies were used, in particular metal architecture. This was in keeping with the Halles de Paris built by Victor Baltard in 1853.

Art Nouveau (early 19th century)

Art Nouveau first appeared in Brussels at the end of the 19th century. It also emerged in England under the name "Arts and Crafts": this movement echoed the concerns of the time, of these artist-craftsmen faced with progress: anxiety, the need for individualisation, the search for true values.
In France, Art Nouveau was more of a decorative style than a constructive one. The most emblematic examples are undoubtedly the Paris Metro entrances designed by Hector Guimard.

The three buildings presented here were designed by architect Louis Perreau:

1-3 Place Grangier__ (1906)

This is, in principle, the most continuous complex in the city centre.

9 rue du Château (1907)

This is undoubtedly the most characteristic building in the city. It also fits exceptionally well into the perspective of the street.
This is due to the use of cut-away corners, inspired by the new Haussmannian aesthetic that was in vogue in Paris at the time.
Its ornamentation is resolutely Art Nouveau. At its summit are monumental dormer windows with exotic-looking hipped roofs and a sculpted pediment.

The Grande Poste (inaugurated in 1909 - Place Grangier)

An innovative metal structure for the time is concealed behind its academic façade. The decorative elements are there to glorify the quality of public service provided by the Republic. Its summit was used as a base for a telegraph. (Source: ICOVIL).

Place Darcy:

The Porte Guillaume

This gate marks the entrance to old Dijon (to the east). It is shaped like a triumphal arch and dates from 1788.

The Darcy Palace (1914)

It resembles a Haussmann-style music hall; its façade features a large bull's-eye window decorated with a colourful stained-glass rose window designed by master glassmaker Marcel Weinling. It is complemented by a mirror panel on the second level.

The Fountain of Youth

This is the work of sculptor Max Blondat (1872-1925): it is a group of children leaning over a pond and watching frogs.

The buildings on either side of the boulevards separating the square and Square Darcy are Haussmannian in style. This is the case for the Hôtel de la Cloche.

A universal criterion for recognition is the existence of continuous balconies on the third and fifth floors. See The Haussmannian Paris Discovery Trail

Square Darcy

Darcy Garden was the first public garden created in Dijon.

The bear that greets you at the entrance is a copy by sculptor Henri Martinet (1937) in homage to Burgundian sculptor François Pompon, a native of Saulieu.

On the site of the square, Henri Darcy, an engineer from Dijon, designed a reservoir to supply Dijon with drinking water in 1838. To crown this work, the architect Emile Sagot created a neo-Renaissance style "lantern", which is still there today. In 1880, a garden was created on top of this reservoir by architect Félix Vionnois in keeping with the tastes of the time.

The garden surrounding the reservoir was laid out in the 19th century with terraces, balustrades above water features and cascades, in the neo-Renaissance style that was in vogue at the time. The sculptures were created by Dijon artist Xavier Schanosky.