Crête des Pénitents via the Col and Crête de l'Alpavin

A hike away from the crowds to one of the most beautiful ridges in the Hautes-Alpes, offering a sweeping 360° panorama of the Écrins and the Queyras, with a bird’s-eye view of the magnificent Lacs d’Escur and de l’Ascension. You’ll be captivated by the timeless beauty of the rocks of the Aiguille des Pénitents massif.
A high-clearance crossover-type vehicle is essential to reach the starting point.

Details

350766
Creation:
Last update:
Last review:
  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 8.26 mi
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 05 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Difficult

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 3,793 ft
  • ↘
    Descent: - 3,763 ft

  • ▲
    Highest point: 8,917 ft
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 5,282 ft

Photos

Description of the walk

South of Briançon, walk past the station then take the road towards Villar-Saint-Pancrace. Cross the village and continue along the D36 towards Le Villaret. 450m after the end of the hamlet, head up the track on the left to the Rocher Baron climbing centre. Then take the track on the left and follow it up to the Pas du Rif. Park at the edge of the hamlet in the field used as a car park, situated to the right of the track.

(S/E) From the car park, continue along the track heading south-southeast for about 400m.

(1) At the signpost, leave the track and take the path on the left towards the Calvaire du Vallon. Climb westwards for about 50 metres. Turn left and continue south-east for the same distance. Turn right towards the west-north-west. After walking for just under 100 metres, the path turns left and heads generally south-southeast. The path climbs through the larch forest, crosses the track and then rejoins it (fence crossing).

(2) Head down the track to the left towards the east for about twenty metres. Leave the track and gently climb the path to the right. On this path, which becomes almost level, reach and then cross the Torrent Saint-Sébastien. Climb up the south-eastern slope and then descend southwards towards the trough of the valley. Cross the torrent again.
After a south-westerly traverse, the path emerges from the forest and leads to a vast plateau where the Calvaire du Vallon cross stands. A lovely spot for a picnic. Join the Alpavin path to the south-east of the plain.

(3) Turn left and climb again through the forest. A sign points towards Alpavin. As you gain altitude, the landscape becomes more rocky. The path leaves the forest and climbs up the slope through scree below the chapel, running alongside the Combe de Fond Froid to the south-east. It reaches the foot of a cirque bounded by the ridges of Serre Chapelle and Alpavin, separated by the pass of the same name.

(4) Below the pass, turn right to begin a 750m south-westerly ascent.

(5) Leave the path that is supposed to lead to the Col de la Moutière, take a sharp left and follow a faint track across the scree towards the east to easily reach the Crête de l’Alpavin. Follow the ridge east-northeast, descending towards the Col de l’Alpavin.

(6) Climb up the opposite ridge and then follow the Crête des Pénitents by sight towards the Aiguille of the same name.

(7) This broad ridge is ideal for a contemplative break. The Aiguille lies within a dolomite massif that is well worth visiting (if you choose this option, you will need to bypass a rocky outcrop on the right).
You reach a gap and then a ledge which, after a traverse to the right, allows you to reach the south face situated to the right of the massif.

(8) Via a very easy climb, you reach the highest part of the face accessible by hiking. Climb just a few metres to reach the ridge. Stop there, as beyond this point it is no longer hiking but mountaineering requiring the use of protection.
For the return, retrace your steps back to the Col de l'Alpavin.

(6) Descend to the right down the scree slope to the north-west to rejoin the path you took on the way up.

(4) Follow the route back in the opposite direction to your car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : mi 0 - alt. 5,282 ft - Car park
  2. 1 : mi 0.25 - alt. 5,390 ft - Crossroads: track, path
  3. 2 : mi 0.53 - alt. 5,692 ft - Path junction, track
  4. 3 : mi 1.58 - alt. 6,480 ft - Crossroads, path
  5. 4 : mi 3.31 - alt. 8,301 ft - Change of direction and junction at the scree slope
  6. 5 : mi 3.78 - alt. 8,753 ft - Change of direction
  7. 6 : mi 4.31 - alt. 8,720 ft - Col de l'Alpavin
  8. 7 : mi 4.49 - alt. 8,888 ft - Crête des Pénitents
  9. 8 : mi 4.54 - alt. 8,881 ft - South face of the Pénitents massif
  10. S/E : mi 8.26 - alt. 5,282 ft - Car park

Notes

I’ve made a video with the names of the peaks, showing the route and the atmosphere of the hike.

What can I say about this route?
The section through the forest is particularly difficult to follow. The path is non-existent in places.
Although it is possible to manage with a map and a compass (essential items), I recommend using GPS or a smartphone (connected to an external battery for power) with the Visorando app, which is excellent for this purpose, to save time.

Reviews and comments

4.9 / 5
Based on 4 reviews

Reliability of the description
5 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.8 / 5
Route interest
5 / 5
bb66
bb66

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 17, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The hike started just above St-Martin-de-Queyrières because the road to Rocher Baron Falaise is very rocky. There seems to be another route from Prelles (condition unknown). The path then continues to the Pas du Rif, the actual starting point of the trail. Despite the paths cutting across the hairpin bends of the car route, our hike was around 19 km with more than 1,600 m of elevation gain. Otherwise, be careful with the GPX track at point 2 'jonction sentier piste' (trail junction) during the last section on the 'vehicle' road. You need to descend 30 m to pick up the track and not take the road opposite. If you make a mistake, keep going as the road rejoins the track 1 km further on at point 3 'carrefour allée sentier' (trail junction).
There are lots of insects at this time of year until halfway through the route.
We then opted to do the 'ridge' loop and then the pass. The descent from the pass is steep with no path (scree).
There are lovely views across the entire ridge.

Machine-translated

Jean Maurice Dupont
Jean Maurice Dupont
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 01, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Hike completed today, at least as far as the outskirts of Fond Froid (2300). A magnificent hike, at least from what we could see. Where there is a small plateau with a water source (point 2304 on the IGN map), there was a herd about 200 metres away from us, without a shepherd but with at least six dogs, including two Patous and, more importantly, two Kangals. After a very quick assessment of the situation, we decided to turn back, which was a good decision because two Kangals (these Anatolian shepherd dogs are much bigger and, above all, more dangerous than Patous) appeared 10 or 20 metres away, looking very threatening. It was only by facing them and gradually backing away that they finally left us alone. We then went to complain to the town hall in St Martin de Queyrières, where the clerk informed us that, after contacting the owner of the herd, these Kangals were not part of his herd but had left a neighbouring herd. And of course, neither the shepherd of the herd we encountered nor the shepherd of the herd from which the Kangals had escaped intervened (were they even there?). In our case, it ended well because we did the right thing by leaving without running away, but other hikers, less experienced, could have been attacked, and then we wouldn't have given a damn about them. The mountains have become a jungle where some shepherds or herd owners (fortunately not all) put up little signs with their safety instructions and then couldn't care less about what might happen. Will we have to go up armed to defend ourselves against these new mountain terrors?

Machine-translated

Britanicus100
Britanicus100

Thank you for your comments. It is indeed a very quiet route, and that is what makes it so charming.

Machine-translated

Chauvelinus
Chauvelinus

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 16, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

I set off from Saint Martin de Q., which added about 350m of elevation gain. That brought my total to 1,513m of elevation gain
At point 2, I continued along the path that cuts across the hairpin bends and joins the track at the junction with the path leading to Grand Combe; the path is very well marked. Then, at point 4, I climbed straight up to the ridge to avoid the circular route towards the Col de la Moutière as there was still a lot of snow. I didn’t meet a single person on the hike. From the wayside cross, a wild and magnificent valley; I’ll be back to visit the Roche de la Moutière.
Thank you for the description, which has made me want to go and explore this place.

Machine-translated

devouassoud
devouassoud

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 04, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Thank you for this description, which gave me the idea to hike along this ridge. I climbed up via Lac de l'Ascension and joined the ridge, which I followed along the suggested route. Magnificent!

Machine-translated

Other walks in the area

For more walks, use our search engine .

The GPS track and description are the property of this route's author. Please do not copy them without permission.