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From Saint-Lary-Soulan, head towards Soulan on a cliff-side road, cross the village towards the Espiaube ski resort, pass the youth hostel, and a few metres further on, take the track on the right. The road surface is good at the start but deteriorates as you climb. After about seven kilometres, and after passing through a tunnel (where animals sometimes graze, so take care), the track after a final right-hand bend reaches the Col du Portet at 2,215 m. Park in the car park.
(S/E) The start is at the end of the car park. Continue on foot along the track, which descends slightly. TheGR®®10trail, marked in red and white, begins shortly afterwards on the right.
On the hillside, skirting a hillock to the north, where there is a superb view of the summer pastures of the Montarrouyes massif, the trail bends slightly and joins a small stream, which you cross. From there, the trail heads westward over a series of small bumps and false flats.
Halfway along, it is not uncommon to come across a marmot colony called City (due to the abundance of these animals in this area) basking in the first rays of sunshine.
Further on, the trail turns right, heading north, and runs along a ledge above Lac de l'Oule. A little further on, Pic de Bastan stands out on the horizon. The view is magnificent. Below on the left, you can see the Cabane de Bastan (not the refuge). Passing by Lac de l'Oule, it is easy to reach.
TheGR®®10trail passes nearby and joins theGR®®10Cfurther up, which takes you to Artigue on the road to La Mongie, passing by the Bastan and Campana du Cloutou refuges.
Continuing along the path with a sublime panorama towards Néouvielle and with the peak of Bastan still in sight, the trail winds its way downhill without any particular difficulty over gentle slopes covered with grass and scree.
(1) After going around one last hill, you arrive at the first small lake adjacent to the Lacs du Milieu. Continue along the clearly visible trail, skirting around it. The path now runs slightly above it. It soon joins the spillway of Lac du Milieu. Continue along the lake shore, hidden among the pines, and you will see part of the refuge, which you will reach after climbing a final steep section.
(2) After a short break at the refuge, follow the trail towards the Col de Bastanet, which you can see opposite (in good weather, you may be lucky enough to see the peaks of the Néouvielle rising to over 3,000 metres).
One hundred and fifty metres after the refuge, Lac Supérieur comes into view to the north.
(3) Continue along the well-marked path between the grass and scree. You will come to a small flat area, from where you can see the Col du Bastanet.
After a steep section to cross a ledge, cross an area of scree. The well-marked trail, dotted with markers and cairns, winds its way through the boulders to come out below the pass, which can be reached by a final steep climb at the end.
(4) The panorama to the south and north will dispel any fatigue. Look for a path that starts on the side of the Pic de Bastan towards the Hourquette de Caderolle, which is clearly visible. Follow it as it passes over the Lac de Caderolle and joins the path coming from the lake below.
(5) Climb the few metres that separate you from the passage near the cairn of the Hourquette de Caderolle. From there, turning to either side towards the east, you can see the Pic de Portarras and the Col de Bastanet that you have just left.
To the west, there is a splendid view of the Pic du Néouvielle and the Pic d'Aygues Cluses with the Hourquette Nére on the right and the Col de Barèges on the left. In the foreground is the Grand Lac de Bastan or Port Bielh, both names appearing on all maps.
After a steep and difficult descent at the start and a crossing of scree, you will be glad to find soft grass that is more pleasant for your feet. Follow the most visible path on the ground. Further on, go around a small bump on the left, and the path leads to the top of a scree chimney that joins a renovated sheepfold below, near a small lake.
(6) After a short break, take the path that climbs up to the foot of the Pic de Bastan. It passes by a spring and crosses a small wood until you reach a small ledge from which you can see the Lac de Bastanet.
About thirty metres further down, descend a short, fairly steep path and continue along the edge of the lake until you reach its spillway at the other end, where access to the shore is easy.
Continue along the gently sloping path and you will come to a final small milky-looking lake before climbing up another fairly steep drop at the edge of a small wood. One last effort brings you to the top of a small unnamed pass, from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lakes you passed earlier on the western slope.
You can also see the Pic d'Aygues Cluses opposite and, from left to right, the Col de Barèges and the Hourquette Nére on the eastern slope. On one side, you overlook the Lacs de Bastan, the starting point of this loop.
(2) All that remains is the return journey, a 2-hour walk from the refuge to the car park at the Col du Portet. In such beautiful surroundings, you won't feel tired at all (S/E).
Visorando Member
Moderate 
Very difficult 
Association / Club / Walk leader
