Circular in the Cirque d'Anéou

What better season than spring to discover (or rediscover) the mountains? Snow still adorns the landscape, streams flow merrily down the slopes, and a profusion of flowers carpets the already thick grass of the mountain pastures. The Cirque d'Anéou, in the upper Ossau valley, offers us the added bonus of its magnificent setting and geological curiosities.

Details

22075725
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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 6.92 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 2h 50 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 294 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 290 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,987 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 1,713 m

Photos

Description of the walk

From Laruns, take the road leading to the Col du Pourtalet, which passes successively through Les Eaux Chaudes, Gabas and along Lake Fabrèges, before running alongside the beautiful glacial valley of the Gave du Brousset, dotted with cyclopean boulders deposited there by the glacier.

About one kilometre before the Col du Pourtalet, on the upper left side of the road, you will see a stone chalet with green shutters: this is the Cabane de l'Araille. On this side of the road, park in one of the many parking bays.

(S/E) Look west towards the vast Cirque d'Anéou depression and find the track that starts at a bend in the road (signs for the nature park and the Refuge de Pombie) and descends towards the river, which it first follows before crossing one of its tributaries. Continue west towards the beautiful buildings of the Pastoral Centre. Walking along the right-hand side of these buildings, you will come to a crossroads with a signpost pointing to the Col de Soum de Pombie on the right.

(1) Continue straight west, keeping some distance from the stream that descends on the left.
After skirting a hill on the right, you will come to a flat area with the Cabane de Lalagüe 300 m to your right.

(2) Leave this flat area on your right and continue straight ahead towards the west, on a gentle slope with the stream still on your left.

(3) When you reach the foot of a rocky area, go around it slightly to the right, leaving the best-defined path on your left, and climb westwards along a very faint path that runs alongside a stream whose bed was carpeted with buttercups when we passed by. Continue climbing until you come to a small lake (note that in summer it may be dry).

From the lake, you can see, on the right, a network of peat bogs that descend the gently sloping valley to the north, on the left the sugar loaf summit of the Pène de la Glère and far ahead a stream that cascades down from a cirque still covered in snow when we passed through. Continue towards this stream.

(4) Descend overlooking the stream, on a slope towards the north-east where small streams meander, draining a network of peat bogs. As the slope is gentle, these streams form pronounced meanders, known in the Alpes de Haute Provence as "eaux tortes" (such as the famous Eaux Tortes site in the Lavercq valley).

The stream on your left rushes into a gorge, towards which the peat bogs descend in steps. Head right along the southern flank of a rocky ridge and descend towards the point where the peat bogs converge.

(5) The streams draining the peat bogs merge to form a single stream that cascades northwards and disappears into a chasm. The path overlooks this chasm (be careful if you are accompanied by children!) and descends northwards into a wide, flat valley where numerous streams converge, notably the Ruisseau de la Glère.

When you reach the first large stream, turn right and follow it eastwards. You will see numerous peat bogs and a few small chasms and dissolution funnels. Be careful at this time of year (and even more so before), as these depressions are often filled with snow and it would be very unwise to walk on them, not knowing what holes they might be hiding!

Following the path that runs alongside the stream, overlooking it, you can see terraced peat bogs on its banks, and you will soon notice that the stream also disappears into a large sinkhole.

Continue eastwards to reach a rocky area, probably a glacial lock.

(6) Two options:
- Continue eastwards along the rocky path
- As shown on the map, descend to the left to bypass this barrier to the north via an easy path through grassy terrain.

(7) After descending along the barrier through a pretty little valley dotted with peat bogs, you will hear a growing rumbling on the right. This is the stream emerging from its underground course in a beautiful resurgence gushing out of a cave. Climb up on the right to get a closer look and descend along the waterfalls on the left bank of the stream.

Then follow the path that runs more or less alongside the stream, still heading east. Take the opportunity to admire the gorges that it has carved into the subvertical limestone layers.

The trail joins the path coming from the Refuge de Pombie, not far from the Cabane de Houns de Gabès; it crosses the stream on a footbridge and joins an intersection already encountered on the way there.

(1) Turn left to retrace your steps and return to the road and car park (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 1,713 m - Parking de la Cabane de l'Arraille
  2. 1 : km 0.85 - alt. 1,735 m - Crossroads near the Pastoral Centre
  3. 2 : km 1.26 - alt. 1,765 m - Map of the Lalagüe Hut
  4. 3 : km 2.19 - alt. 1,873 m - Ascent to the lake
  5. 4 : km 3.12 - alt. 1,985 m - High point
  6. 5 : km 3.84 - alt. 1,907 m - At the foot of the peat bogs
  7. 6 : km 4.59 - alt. 1,872 m - Rocky area
  8. 7 : km 4.86 - alt. 1,840 m - Resurgence
  9. S/E : km 6.92 - alt. 1,714 m - Parking de la Cabane de l'Arraille

Notes

Hike completed in May 2022.

No difficulties, this walk can be done by any walker of average physical condition.
There is no risk of getting lost, as there are always visual landmarks: the pass road, Pic de la Glère, Pic de Peyreget, Pic du Midi d'Ossau, and the general flow of streams towards the east.

However, beware of the numerous karstic features in the landscape: dissolution funnels, collapse dolines, chasms; do not approach the edges of these and keep a close eye on children.

This is a pastoral area, so it is advisable not to approach the herds, or you may be "called to order" by the patous, who are always very conscientious in their work!

This route passes through a protected area, which may be subject to special regulations:

Worth a visit

Close to the pass and Spanish ventas where you can find good deals and discover interesting products. What's more, these ventas have greatly improved their presentation and their staff are often very friendly.

Discover the flora, represented by a multitude of floral species that vary according to the seasons.

The fauna is represented by marmots and a few izards that we saw in the distance on the Spanish ridges, not to mention the jackdaws, which are very present.

The landscape is very rich in geological and geomorphological terms:
- peat bogs
- perched valleys
- glacial landforms (glacial locks, rounded and striated rocks)
karst erosion (dissolution funnels, sinkholes, karstic caves and chasms, and resurgence)

And, of course, the immense mountainous theatre of the Pyrenees, offering endless, free entertainment.

In short, there is plenty to see.

Reviews and comments

4.4 / 5
Based on 9 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.7 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.2 / 5
Route interest
4.3 / 5
jarkhot
jarkhot

Overall rating : 3.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 08, 2025
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike among the flowers.
Easy climb on the same route as Lake Houer.
However, there is a problem at the fork in the road on the way back.
No signposts, no cairns... you don't know where to cross the stream and you can't find any path for the first third of the return journey.
You really have to search and take a chance... before finding the path much further down.

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Vielle-Aure
Vielle-Aure

Route to do this summer

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stjo
stjo

@jeasancammar as you've probably seen in the description and photos, there's more to see than just the scenery!

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jeasancammar
jeasancammar

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 16, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : Yes

The route is fairly easy, but as it's a circular in the cirque, the landscape is always the same. A bit monotonous... but nice.

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LoïcG33
LoïcG33

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : May 19, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Although the start of the route along the roadside may cause some concern, it quickly moves away from the road and offers a very pleasant open valley. Early in the morning, we had the pleasure of seeing dozens of chamois, then a few birds of prey. No marmots... A hike with no technical difficulty, with regular, short climbs, allowing you to rest before tackling another slight incline. The snow prevented us from reaching the end, but the return trip was also very nice, full of streams and waterfalls. I recommend it.

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guyarmengaud
guyarmengaud

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 08, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Hikers can extend this short walk.
At point 4, follow the Lac de Houer trail (Visorando). At the Col de Houer, you can follow a path marked by cairns (heading south-southwest) that climbs up to the Pic de Canaourouye. This is a beautiful viewpoint from which you can admire the Pic du Midi d'Ossau and its surroundings, as well as the Spanish side of the mountain. From the summit, you can also easily descend the ridge and climb back up to Pico de Baguer, which is also a beautiful viewpoint. This magnificent detour is not difficult.

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benoitd37
benoitd37

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 07, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A very pleasant hike. Arrive early (before 8:00–8:30 a.m.) to get a spot in the upper car park.
We did this as a family with children who are used to walking, going in the opposite direction to the one suggested, which was good as it meant we avoided a fairly steep descent.

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gegedur
gegedur

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 27, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful route in a superb setting. Accessible to everyone.
Depending on what time you get there, there might be a lot of cars already parked, but since there are so many different routes to choose from, we didn't see many people on this one.
One thing to note: for the return trip, GPS tracking is useful because the trail is not marked at the return point indicated on the map. The return trail starts directly in the mountain pastures before rejoining a path much further on.
But it's easy to find your way back as you can almost always see the car park.
All in all: great...

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benoitd37
benoitd37

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 17, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

Family circular, GPS tracking useful for the return journey as the trail was not always marked.

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josetxo_oliveri
josetxo_oliveri

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 06, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful route to enjoy the surroundings of the Cirque. Easy terrain to walk on grass. You can enjoy the wildlife of the region, horses, marmots, birds... Duration and slope very suitable for a family outing.

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CV3813
CV3813

We set off early in the morning at around 8am and finished the hike at around 1pm. The temperature did not exceed 26°C. The streams were not dry and the summer pastures were still green.

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stjo
stjo

@CV3813 Important information: you say it's very green; does that mean it wasn't too hot? What temperatures did you experience during this hike?
Thank you.

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CV3813
CV3813

Overall rating : 4.7 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 17, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

The Cirque d'Anéou is a gem. The area is very green and the wildlife is remarkable. We saw lots of young marmots playing and rolling around in the grass, as well as griffon vultures, which we were able to observe up close. We climbed up to the Col d'Anéou, where there is a breathtaking view of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau.

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