Tour of the Puy de Dôme via the fountains and caves

A grand tour of the Puy de Dôme allows you to admire this local landmark from multiple angles. The ascents of the Grand Knoll and Cliersou, peaks overlooked by most hikers, offer beautiful views of the Chaîne des Puys.

Details

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  • Walking
    Activity: Walking
  • ↔
    Distance: 18.72 km
  • ◔
    Average duration: 7h 15 
  • ▲
    Difficulty: Moderate

  • ⚐
    Back to start: Yes
  • ↗
    Ascent: + 669 m
  • ↘
    Descent: - 668 m

  • ▲
    Highest point: 1,231 m
  • ▼
    Lowest point: 797 m

Description of the walk

At Font de l'Arbre, park opposite the Auberge des Dômes, on the edge of the Route du Puy de Dôme, which serves as the village's main street.
Please note! This hike is not marked as such.

(S/E) Facing the inn, with your back to the Tiretaine river flowing just behind the stone wall, take the road on the right for a few metres. Immediately turn right onto Rue de la Combe, at the yellow signpost, Font de l'Arbre and towards Manson, to pass in front of the fountain.

Immediately afterwards, turn right for a very short detour to the village wash house and oven, then continue along Rue de la Combe, following the yellow disc markings until further notice. Ignore a street on the right shortly afterwards. Further on, at a fork, keep left onto Rue de la Tour, then at the next fork, turn left onto Rue de la Côte Folle.

Continue along the path that extends this street and turns right at a beautiful house on your right. You will come back onto tarmac and, at the crossroads, continue straight ahead, still on Rue de la Côte Folle. At the next crossroads, note the beautiful iron cross on a stone base on your right.

Turn left to pass in front of the beautiful wash house fountain, built into a rocky site. Pass in front of it, turning right onto Rue les Fontaines Vieilles (street sign at the other end of the street), then arrive at a crossroads with the large Montrodeix wash house fountain opposite.

(1) Turn right, then take Chemin du Château Fort on the left (note the information sign about the Puy de Dôme train on your right). Climb up to an intersection with yellow signs (1 in "During the hike or nearby"). Leave the yellow markings and turn right, following the orange mountain bike markings. The path descends towards the power station. Take the road on the left and you will immediately notice the beautiful fountain-wash house on the left, near a trickle of water which is one of the sources of the Tiretaine.

(2) Cross the D942 (caution! busy road) and take the small road opposite, slightly to the right, on the right-hand side of the inn. Shortly afterwards, pass between a fountain-wash house on the left and a bread oven on the right. At the intersection, continue to the left of the fountain and follow the path that extends the street.

At the intersection of paths, ignore the one on the right and turn left, passing between the two large stones. You will arrive at a crossroads with several paths. Follow the one furthest to the right, then, about 60 metres further on, leave it and take a grassy path on the right, which offers beautiful views of the Puy de Dôme. You will come to a wider, stony path.

(3) Follow it to the left to reach a road at an interchange. Cross it (be careful! fairly busy road) and take the path opposite behind a wooden barrier. Continue to a crossroads with four paths at the yellow signs. Turn left towards the Col de Cessat to quickly reach the D68 at the other signs.

(4) Still following the direction of Col de Ceyssat, cross (caution!) and continue opposite. Continue along this beautiful path through the woods, marked by the Circuit des Dômes in yellow and small green signs (ignore a less marked and unmarked path on the right).

(5) At the intersection with the yellow signs, follow the signs on the right towards Col de Ceyssat. Continue uphill on this path, which is very wide at first but narrows after an old logging area until it becomes a trail that leads to the D68 at Col de Ceyssat.

(6) Cross over and take the path opposite, following the direction of the summit of Puy de Dôme indicated by the yellow sign. The path climbs and goes around the car parks on the right. Pass by the memorial to the Auvergne resistance at a fork in the road and a fountain (drinking water). Resist the urge to climb to the summit of Puy de Dôme, like everyone else (you will have other small puys to climb later), and go straight on towards Vulcania. Now follow the red and white markings, as well as the yellow ones, until further notice.

(7) Ignore a path on the left at the yellow signs and continue straight ahead, still towards Vulcania.

(8) When you reach a more open area, at the yellow signs, continue towards Vulcania, between the pastures. The Puy de Dôme rises up on your right. At the crossroads on the other side of the pastures, follow the signs on the right towards the summit of Puy de Dôme (yellow signs). At the next intersection, leave the yellow andGR®® (red and white) markings and go straight up the slope. You will come to two forks in the path; keep left at each one.

(9) Shortly afterwards, take a path that turns sharply left on the slopes of Petit Knoll. Pass a few caves on your right. The path veers right and arrives at a crossroads. Climb left for a round trip to the summit of Grand Knoll.

(10) There is a beautiful 360° view. Note, in particular, the cave openings on the north side of Cliersou.
Go back down to the crossroads and continue straight ahead to climb to the summit of Petit Knoll. Just below the summit, on the right, there are two beautiful caves.

Descend on the path that passes between the two knolls and turn right to descend from the pass via a very loose path (volcanic endosol). At the bottom, note a wooden sign indicating the path opposite that leads to the summit of Cliersou and back. An information sign also indicates that this path has been rehabilitated.

In fact, it is mainly the erosion channels that have been filled in (2 in "Practical information"). Take this very steep path on the left to the top of the puy, passing several caves. At the top, a beautiful unobstructed view awaits you, as well as wooden signs indicating "return".

(11) Follow them down to the caves, then descend via the same steep path to the bottom of the hill. Continue to the left. At a fork, continue left and then, just after, at the wooden sign (Cliersou A/R), follow the wide path to the right. You will come to a crossroads with steps on the left leading up to the Pariou (optional).

(12) Turn left in front of the information signs about the mountain pastures and take the path to the right of a tree bearing an old yellow cross. Continue straight ahead on this wide path which climbs steadily, ignoring the less marked paths on either side, and keeping the Puy de Dôme straight ahead in your sights. After a short descent, you will reach a crossroads with a fountain (drinking water).

(13) Take the wide path on the left. The track begins to descend and, after a few bends, continues through the woods.

(14) At the yellow posts, turn left towards Puy Pariou. At the next crossroads, continue straight ahead towards Font de l'Arbre (yellow signs).

(15) At the crossroads, continue straight ahead until you reach the D942.

(16) Cross (caution! busy road) and continue straight ahead on the path to the left of house no. 9. At the crossroads, continue straight ahead. At the next crossroads, turn right and you will find the car park a few metres further on (S/E).

Waypoints

  1. S/E : km 0 - alt. 799 m - Car park opposite the Auberge des Dômes, near the - Tiretaine (ruisseau) - Affluent de l'Artière
  2. 1 : km 1 - alt. 839 m - Road on the right
  3. 2 : km 1.98 - alt. 829 m - Road opposite
  4. 3 : km 3 - alt. 876 m - Path on the left
  5. 4 : km 3.77 - alt. 930 m - Path opposite
  6. 5 : km 4.7 - alt. 936 m - Path on the right
  7. 6 : km 6.18 - alt. 1,061 m - Road on the left - Le col de Ceyssat
  8. 7 : km 7.66 - alt. 1,055 m - Straight ahead
  9. 8 : km 8.67 - alt. 1,072 m - Straight ahead
  10. 9 : km 9.49 - alt. 1,125 m - Path on the left - Le Traversin
  11. 10 : km 10.37 - alt. 1,231 m - Summit of - Le Grand Suchet
  12. 11 : km 12.14 - alt. 1,196 m - Summit - Le Cliersou
  13. 12 : km 13.34 - alt. 1,085 m - Path on the left, optional - Puy Pariou
  14. 13 : km 14.4 - alt. 1,128 m - Path on the left
  15. 14 : km 15.78 - alt. 975 m - Path on the left
  16. 15 : km 16.9 - alt. 896 m - Straight path
  17. 16 : km 18.41 - alt. 821 m - Street opposite
  18. S/E : km 18.72 - alt. 799 m - Car park opposite the Auberge des Dômes

Notes

The summit of Grand Knoll is sometimes inaccessible due to a summer pasture fence.

2 This round trip to the Cliersou caves is the only difficult part of this route: a very steep path that may make the hike difficult for some. However, this round trip can be omitted.

Worth a visit

Discover more hikes in this area with a description or the Visorando app here and more generally in the Puy-de-Dôme here

Some photos here

1 At this crossroads, the path on the left leads to the basalt columns of Montrodeix. These volcanic cliffs are right next to the water reservoir, at the top of the small puy.

The high concentration of fountains and wash houses around the Font de l'Arbre contrasts with the total absence of streams on the Plateau des Dômes, at the foot of the hills. Yet it rains just as much here, but the soil is very permeable and the water seeps away immediately.

The Petit Knoll and Cliersou caves were dug during the Gallo-Roman and Merovingian periods. They were used in particular to extract the blocks of stone needed to build the Temple of Mercury at the top of the Puy de Dôme and to create sarcophagi.

The wide paths that you take at the end of the route to descend from the puys to the Font de l'Arbre have been used for a very long time to take cattle to summer pastures in the hills.

(12) Optional return trip to the summit of Pariou

Always be cautious and plan ahead when you're outdoors. Visorando and the author of this route cannot be held responsible for any accidents occurring on this route.

The GR® and PR® markings are the intellectual property of the Fédération Française de Randonnée Pédestre.

Reviews and comments

4.7 / 5
Based on 12 reviews

Reliability of the description
4.6 / 5
Ease of following the route
4.5 / 5
Route interest
4.9 / 5
dom87
dom87
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 05, 2024
Reliability of the description : Not used / Not applicable
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

We did this hike in August on a beautiful day that wasn't too hot, following the route on GPS. It's a magnificent route, quite long but relatively easy to do. We added the 555 steps of Puy Pariou, which is really worth it. It's a little tricky to find the right path at the foot of the steps (point 12); you have to go through the fence facing the steps and head to the left. It took us 6½ hours to complete the circuit (including Puy Pariou). I recommend this hike for experienced walkers; you won't be disappointed.

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Curbilié Thierry
Curbilié Thierry

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jun 13, 2024
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful route. I even added the Pariou to reach twenty kilometres... That's 800 metres of elevation gain. It's quite reasonable.

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bruno sophie bzh
bruno sophie bzh
• Edited:

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 25, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A popular route for the last 3 km due to the presence of small circular loops near Orcines.
If time permits, take the easy climbs up Petit Knoll and Grand Knoll for beautiful views.
Other points of interest include the Cliersou caves and the Puy de Pariou (more popular)
A very beautiful hike... thank you

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Antoine Montjoie
Antoine Montjoie

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 28, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A beautiful, long hike, perfectly detailed in the written guide (well done to the author, really very good), very easy to follow. The classification as difficult is a little excessive as it only concerns the climb to the second Puy, which is a round trip and can therefore be avoided. The rest of this hike can be classified as moderate or even easy.
Three minor observations:
- at point 3, you have to cross the crossroads diagonally to the left and take a path, but there is no longer a wooden barrier (broken) and it is a path and not a track. It is only a little further on that this path widens into a track.
- At point 12: a) I think it's a shame not to climb Puy Pariou because, unlike the other two Puy peaks, it has retained its cone, which is very impressive (you can even climb down to the bottom); the ascent and descent are very easy (the path is entirely paved) and add about 1.5 km (without going down to the bottom of the crater or walking around it). b) when you arrive at point 12, you have to turn right (and not left) to head towards the Puy de Dome antenna.

Puy Pariou

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poulpus
poulpus

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 09, 2023
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike!
Be careful between points (3) and (4): I couldn't find the path through the woods, or perhaps it was a tiny path that wasn't marked at all and was difficult to access due to tall grass, brambles, etc. I decided to continue along the route via the road (not very long).
The climbs up Grand Knoll and Petit Knoll are not compulsory but highly recommended, as is Cliersou, as the views are incredible!
This hike is really very pleasant in terms of views and tranquillity (I set off at 8am).
Thank you to the author!

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berfaz
berfaz

Overall rating : 4.3 / 5

Date of your route : Oct 02, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★☆☆ Average
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A bit crowded at the end of the season when you arrive on the tourist side of the Pariou
As for the elevation gain, I never understand how you calculate your stuff. My eTrex gives me 1,200 metres of elevation gain. It's a feast for the eyes )
Be careful, make sure you have a GPX tracker, as the hike isn't easy to follow, but it's very nice, thank you!

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astephany
astephany

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Aug 15, 2022
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : Yes

A very pleasant route, very well described: for once, I let myself be guided by the paper itinerary without having to look at the GPX track even once.
The walk is not difficult at all. There is only one tricky section, about 10 metres long, when you reach the Clierzou caves: the path is narrow and there is one step that is a little high.
The hike took 5½ hours, including breaks.

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Michel lacroix
Michel lacroix

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 16, 2021
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

Superb hike. No particular problems on this route, which must be superb in good weather....
The bad weather we had certainly explains why there were so few people.

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RB63
RB63

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Dec 20, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good
Very busy route : No

A very beautiful hike with a series of peaks and landscapes: superb. I did this hike in winter, but it's just as enjoyable as in summer, with different views.
I didn't use the explanations in the PDF file but loaded the route into my watch and had no problems to report. Thank you for your work.

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RC
RC

Overall rating : 2 / 5

Date of your route : Sep 07, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Ease of following the route : ★★☆☆☆ Disappointing
Route interest : Not used / Not applicable
Very busy route : No

Very dissatisfied with the route
Too much uncertainty about the explanations

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nathalie65
nathalie65

Overall rating : 4 / 5

Date of your route : Jul 13, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★☆ Good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★☆ Good
Route interest : ★★★★☆ Good
Very busy route : No

The start with the climb up the overly crowded hill, but then perfect

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grandin
grandin ★

Thank you, France_63, it's been corrected. You're going to become my official proofreader...

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France_63
France_63

Overall rating : 5 / 5

Date of your route : Jan 29, 2020
Reliability of the description : ★★★★★ Very good
Ease of following the route : ★★★★★ Very good
Route interest : ★★★★★ Very good

A very nice hike, but we did it in very overcast weather, which meant we didn't climb to the top of Petit knoll and Grand knoll because there was no visibility. However, we did climb Cliersou so we could eat sheltered in the caves
Just a quick note: in point 11 of the description, the steps leading up to Pariou are on the left, not the right.
Otherwise, everything else was perfect.
Thank you for this beautiful hike.

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