In Andorra, leave the CG-2 – either heading up to or down from the Col d’Envalira, depending on which direction you’re coming from – and head towards the Grau Roig resort, signposted by a large sign. Pass the first car park on the left and continue on to cross the stream known as the Valira d’Orient and reach the second car park.
No signposting
(S/E) Head towards the medical centre, recognisable by its large red Cross of the Red Cross; go round it to the left, passing under the trees along the banks of the stream, and cross the large open area where the resort’s numerous chairlift stations are located.
(1) Turn onto the track on the right towards the “3 Estanys” restaurant, pass it and begin a steady climb. Ignore a track on the left (earthworks in July 2022) and continue to the right. You will reach a junction at a bend.
Yellow and red markings
Carry on straight ahead and you’ll soon reach Estany Primer. Veer to the right to skirt the mountain restaurant.
Yellow Circle markings
(2) Leave the track and turn left onto a narrow, rocky path that climbs through a forest of mountain pines. Once on level ground, take a short detour to the left to reach the banks of Estany Forcat. Turn back and rejoin the marked path on the left, which begins to climb again.
You’ll reach a first pond, smaller than the previous one. Continue past several other smaller ponds on your right.
Off the path
(3) Just as the path begins to climb, leave it and head right towards the small stream that feeds these ponds: I have placed a cairn at this junction. Once you reach the stream, follow it up to the left along a gentle slope through grassy terrain and weathered rock. Keep heading in the same direction to pass by a first pond, then a second, and reach the third, which is larger than the previous ones and overlooked by the reddish cliffs of Pic Alt del Cubil.
(4) After enjoying this haven of peace, turn your back on the pond and head south up a grassy valley, aiming for a small, single-branched pine tree visible on the ridge. Once at the top, look straight ahead to spot the path you left earlier and rejoin it not far from a small pond on the left which is drying up.
Yellow Circle markings
Turn right and walk for about 150 m until you see Sisè Estany below on the left. Look out for the very faint track leading in that direction: I have placed a cairn at this intersection, which is really hard to spot.
(5) Follow this track to reach the pond, where the route joins theGR®®7 –Andorra.
GR®® White and Red Markings
Turn right. When you reach a signpost, continue straight on and go round the Estany de les Fonts on the right. Then begin a fairly steep climb over rocky terrain with increasingly sparse patches of grass.
Off the path
(6) Leave theGR®® by turning left (south) and head for the Estany del Cap dels Pessons. Follow the left bank towards the outlet. Cross the outlet, go round a small pond on the right and emerge onto a vast rocky scree slope where there are no markers (cairns or paint marks).
(7) To cross this, head east, then turn north-east, choosing the best possible route: watch out for loose rocks and use your hands regularly to get over a few sections. The route recorded on site is indicative and corresponds to what seemed to me to be the least problematic way, avoiding the largest boulders. Of course, other routes are possible. The earth and rhododendrons follow on from the rocky terrain and make progress easier. Head for the banks of the pond.
(8) Turn right to walk alongside it, staying as close to the water as possible. At the far end of the pond, head up a grassy slope, veering to the left. You’ll reach a small pass from where you can see another pond. To avoid a rather treacherous direct descent, turn left and look out for a tiny pond further on that is drying up (not shown on the map but visible on Google Earth). Head towards it over much easier terrain, now alternating between exposed rocks and grassy patches.
Once you reach this pond, head off to the right to reach the other, much larger pond. Go round it on the left.
(9) Once at its eastern end, turn sharply left. Upon reaching a small pass, you will see a small pond in the distance to the right (not shown on the map): do not head towards it, but instead head diagonally left along the hillside, passing at the foot of a rocky outcrop and heading towards a solitary pine tree. Once you reach the tree, continue straight on for a few metres, then turn left and climb up the slope.
Once at the top, another pond can be seen below on the right. The terrain, consisting of rhododendrons and hidden rocks, makes a direct descent impossible. Continue to the left and navigate the route as best you can, favouring the grassy and stony sections. Cross a small scree slope then head north.
On the flat section, cross a small bog created by the stream flowing down from the Estany del Meligar. Avoid the spongiest patches and keep heading in the same direction to rejoin theGR®®7.
GR®® white and red markings
(10) Follow it to the right. Pass by Estany Rodo, Tercer Estany and then Estany Forcat – which you passed on the way up – and reach the shores of Estany Primer after negotiating a few steep sections.
Yellow and red markings
(11) Turn left and rejoin the ascent track. Follow it downwards.
No markings
At the junction, leave the yellow and red markings and continue along the track opposite to return to the starting car park (S/E).